tasmanian

Dear fellows, There is working mess is the shipyard. I cant explain how much beauty and real complete feel  rigging adds to the ship. I glad i went for it. Even when ratlines are  not there. I was playing with idea tried to splice rope to show off some 3 cord stopper but i was swearing so much i gave up . Not worth hassle with 60 deadeyes i would be probably dead or end up in psychiatric however it is doable though. I just hope i am doing rigging right. Those colors really match with boat. Not sure if photos show that enough.i am definitely glad for fine lanyard rope. V. 
 

Good weekend and health everyone.
cathedral of the oceans got a baby.
 
lifeboat. 
what a tour de force. Its my  first clinker please bear with me. Far from perfect though at the edges but i like boat enormously as learnt plenty. Finally small modeling didnt escape me,:)  I found free plan with exact measures as on cutty , but i modified/simplify interior design a bit... . Sorry. many thanks for any  comment etc...cant wait to put coat on. 3 days from drawing board to boat.  Have good weekend. 
 
 
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Hello Vlad, 
 
Beautyfull model and your skills are very good👍
Maybe you can look in my buildinglog of the Herringlugger KW140 Wilhelmina VII. I've build a lifeboat too and placed some pictures of how I did it. I have some simpele plans too if you like. 
 
Kind regards, Kees 

good morning , 
 
here comes the time ...:)) 
seems i will have to build 2 wooden clinkers  .... been snorchling on net if there might be a plan for them , campbel says 25" beam 6.5 " and bepth 3" ....
dirty shortcut will be to take artesania titanic plan and modify keel a bit  but eeergh doesnt seem to me likeable. i found some cutter lifeboats from era on maritime museum plans but not sure if applicable there ,,,can probably someone shed some light or suggestion to this topic please ? i believe all the lifeboats were more or less the same so there must be a way ...thanks a milion in advance 
 
Vlad 

I'm sure they were turned on a lathe, then parted off and the holes drilled and chamfered by hand....or a jig was made for the holes for a drill press.  Fun stuff.
I'd be interested in how you accomplish it....
 
Rob

Here is what the prototype looks like....

Good afternoon to all, 
This week was extra productive for me in a positive way, thankfully , i managed to finish fife rails properly to my liking, so only few imoortant things to go before i go rigging yay. 
Meanwhile I wasnt too happy or satisfied with how thin deadeyes turned out - and today  got one idea how to make proper thick  one quite easily even with proper  strap tenon line, with gluing up 2 small deadeyes. I did rasped off 1line of deadeye on both ones which made the strap line.... Im quite happy with outcome seem proper to me. What do you think?
 So i will be working on them evenings  for the rest of the week , as ropes still hasnt come yet. Hope you like the new deadeyes. I decided  Cutty deserves better. awsome thst at this scale one can make deadeyes  as original. 
 
Have fine weekend with your projects, take care and stay healthy till situation betters and massive thank you all for comments, interest etc ...
Vlad 

Good evening fellow builders. 
I took a few days off yard, having other things to work on and to take breqk to think where to go from hull completed. I spent quite a time measuring and discovered interesting website about cutty rebuilt in her australia wook era, having lowered lower nasts by 3 feet and yards consequently. Due to many practical obstacles  Im leaning day by day to leave idea of seeing her with sails and I think of masting her with low masts up to tops. I intend to fill her with shrouds uo to tops, thinking thst would fill her plenty and provide idea of rigging up higher...prbably installing spanker gaff yard. I intend to  make her wire shrouds rounded with tiny ropes as original...you can see on pics how tall it is up to top of topmasts, but i wilp not go that high. Definitely. I was playijg with idea of installing empty lower masts up to top but standing rigging and few blocks will be more colorful I  guess. I started again yesterday  at full speed and  was working past two days on masting. Iron work on braces in full progress, not yet blackened.. l look forward to continue up higher the masts with caps  etc.  You can see difference measures in same scale for revell and campbell tops - larger is revell , clearly difference from campbell. :) masts are not yet secured in angles just stuck in hokes :) but measured as I had to align cheeks top angle :)) Here is the progress. Thank you interest and for any comment, etc. Everyone try to keep yourself safe in these covid times. 
 

Good evening  all,
not working today. I made 1 anchor out of 2, as couldnt find big anchor,,,i opted for one with wooden part....atached admiral stick from much smaller anchor, and installed nameplate. it was quite difficult and time cnsuming, its made of square  brass profile to step out of flat surface. that is from 1.5 mm plywood, not steel.  Lady on the nose is not yet born. and wont be so soon I guess.
meanwhile I was studying rigging by a lot. about that > 
I am at the point of thinking how to mast / rig her.  But we at home decided that when Hull is ready, its alwazs I love rigging part fart more that woodwork, as played with ropes since being kid. looking forward to.
it would give her a credit to get  standing rigging up to the topmast at this point. ....and i will see from there......but definitely will do standing rigging, and would like to go only jigs for running rigging.......surely not other  sails ....but to the point it is not cumbersome to move comfortably. Despite its longitude, she is surprisingly light / apart of stern. Im thinking of mast her up to topmast. most likely not topgallant. I would like to install jigs...but that is concerning me with forepart of ship. definitely much longer. I could be able to install 1 and that would be pointless. so still thinking. what do you think would be most siutable?
she is half deck anyway ! can be 3 quarters masts as well....BUt i want to cripple her to the beauty. well i have to slow down.,
many parts left so im preparing standing rigging, want to go as close to original design, making deadeyes block stanchions , than I want to solder small plate to the bulwark to attach it and relieve rail completely from the strain transferring it to the bulwarks.
I made all stanchions yesterday , drilled hole, .. turned out fun { probably 30 minutes. )
oh by the way, muntz sheathing is started but im not to continue at this point as that can be done anytime when rains outside. turned out pretty easy at this scale, only time consuming. opted for brass , i made sure to buy not too thick to cut with scissors but ot too thin like tape.. it was cheap on amazon from china, perfect to work with...to show yellow gloss...
 
 



 

I have bought quite a few power tools in recent years , most already mentioned, but I would suggest the my belt sander is used almost daily. When used c arefully, it saves a huge amount of time

Hello,
 
Here is my new project: the schooner "La Jacinthe" at 1/48 based on Jean Boudriot's monograph from Ancre. 
As there are no frames plans in the monograph I will do a solid hull model as suggested by the author. The keel and frames I made out of 6mm plywood, the deck was covered with 1.5mm thick bass strips and the spaces in-between the frames was filled with 10mm x 20mm strips of cedar wood. The hull was sanded then the imperfections were filled with wood filler and sanded again. It is now ready to be planked - I will use pear wood for external haul planking and holly for the deck.
 
At this moment I plan to do a full rigged model and with the rigging the model will be 80/25/60cm (L/W/H). Hull only is 48/13/10cm
 
Here are the pictures with the progress so far.
 
Regards,
Alexandru
 

I'm in for the ride!

Hi all another car build, this is an incredible kit but I didn't build this version (it's the one in the museum) I will be building it as the world speed record car (most notable difference is it will be black.
I did all the copper and brass pieces with copper and brass leaf.

Thanks for your help, gents.
Jaager, I agree about oak at least, although I don't know hickory. I have ash from my vintage car body frames.  I had enough of oak's odd ways when i restored a 70 foot canal boat!
I shall use the ash I have and see how that goes. As a model of a Norfolk Wherry it will be black. Wherries were tarred every three years. The bottoms were various colours, usually pale green or brick red. The upper works were very brightly coloured, right up to the mast head where a large iron figure of a girl, called a Jenny Morgan which trailed a fathom of red fabric. The masthead had coloured loops that told any wherryman who the owners were and probably who was skippering it.  The sail was always black unless a new one was being stretched.  Dressed with soot and fish oil they were jet black and towered over the flat Norfolk landscape.
Now to get my drawings enlarged.
 
Cheers,
Martin

Hank,
Just curious here, will you also be looking for a mill at some point?   If so, consider the mill instead of a drill press.

Hello,
 
fascinating precise and important geometry work with needle and pencil is over, gave me headache for couple of days
finally excitement starts. making  stem out of cherry wood. rabbet line to follow. 
cheers.

Hello.
 
2.

More small parts starting with the Jumbo Stay Bail, Turnbuckles, Bowsprit Gammon Irons and Bobstay Plates.
 

 

 

 
Soldered two sizes of round stock and then soldered some tubing on the ends
 

 

 
Turnbuckles made from two sizes of tube which were soldered so that I could get to .020" rod to go in
 

 

 

 
Gammon Irons
 

 

 
Bobstay Plates with links
 

 

 

 
Also carved the star out of Boxwood
 
 
 
Going back to the picture (for reference only) I noticed the mooring chocks stuck out, so looked back on drawing but it does not say  
 

 

 

 
So this what I had 
 

 
I carved out some mooring chocks out of boxwood and glued into place 
 

 

 
Looking at another picture (this is for reference only) I noticed the engine cover had a opening on the port side so I added one, also Quarter Bitts are done
 

 

 
So this covers a lot of little items.
 
Regards
Richard

Heres another update.
 

Hi all another installment.
 

Thanks for the nice comments. Here is the next installment.
I should mention the carpet colour will change as citroen were going to send me the colour code for a blue colour I'd chosen but never did so I changed the body colour which meant changing the carpet colour.

It's been a while, been pretty sick. 
Well, I worked on those anchors. Filled in the holes and gaps with CA glue and filings from the thicker anchor. Primed them for painting. Made the iron rings and served them. Painted them with flat black enamel. I just couldn't use the metal stocks. Made them out of wood.. Made the iron bands from the black pinstripe tape provided in the kit.  They seemed to turn out pretty good. Shaping the bouys now. Will make them out of wood.
 
Jesse 

Very precise work, and a great start.
 
Alan

Congratulations on laying her keel, Christian. The curtain has risen!

The description of my  reconstruction you will find here.
 
On Easter Monday the time had finally come. The keel of his majesty's frigate HMS Triton was laid.
 
First the 5 components for the keel were sawn out.

I have simplified the design of the joints considerably, as they will be completely covered later on by further components. I will continue to apply this principle during the further construction in order to adapt the building as far as possible to my craftsmanship.

The first cliff that had to be overcome is the joint between keel and lower stem. I worked this out with my milling machine and chisels.

 
After I had attached the wrong keel, the joints have to be dowelled. These dowels are a bit too big for the chosen scale, but I cannot draw pear wood thinner than 0.8 mm. I know that many modellers swear by bamboo, but I find pear on the finished model more discreet.

I have simulated the caulking with single-ply pulp.

A square is a very handy tool to have. Micro-Mark has a "thin-beam square" that I've found very handy for marking thin stock. The beam is thin, so it can be used on thin stock without having to put something beneath the stock to raise it enough that the arm lays flat on the stock. I don't know anybody who has this square but Micro-Mark, which isn't always the highest quality or the lowest priced stuff, but I have been very happy with this item.  It's twenty bucks, but it's one of those "loss leaders" they are always discounting if you sign up for their email advertisements. https://www.micromark.com/Thin-Beam-Square  Micro-Mark's set of 3", 4", and 5" small standard beam squares is a handy thing to have as well. These are also often discounted quite deeply on a regular basis. https://www.micromark.com/Steel-Machinists-Squares-Set-of-3
 
The two pictures at the bottom below show the thin-beam square on the left and a standard beam square on the right.
 

 
Planing a 90 degree edge is easily done if you lay the plane on its side on a flat surface. If need be, put something beneath the workpiece to raise it so the plane iron cuts the edge completely. Make sure your plane iron is set square to the plane's sole, of course. Use a square like those above for that as well.