David Lester

Thanks for the comments, likes and suggestions guys. I've looked at several other build logs and thought about the red stripe and I think I've decided what to do. On the build log at knightdreamers.com he found that he was able to lift the masking tape off the copper without it damaging the plates ok which is good, but I noticed that he had quite a bit of paint find its way under the masking tape and the line isn't very crisp. So I think I won't mask it at all and just paint it freehand down to the bottom of the top two rows. There is a band of two rows of full plates going around the top. The stripe is supposed to be 1/2" and the total width of the top two rows on my model is about  7/16". That's close enough for me. I should be able to get a good crisp line using the edge of the plates as a stopping point.
 
David

Happy Tuesday Everyone,
A bit of progress to report. I've finished plating the starboard side of the model.  I followed the LSS practicum and found it to be quite helpful. The concept of dividing the hull into gores was easy to grasp and it worked out well. The results are acceptable, if not stellar. It looks fine from a "normal" viewing distance of 50' or so , but up close it's full of flaws. It isn't too hard a process in theory, and in most aspects it isn't too hard in practice either, but it is challenging to get the plates in consistent even rows. If you look closely at mine, you'll see a few sine waves!.
 
The foil is very fragile and I'm a bit worried about protecting this side as I work on the other one. I think I'll thumb tack some padding along the bottom of the keel, run it up the side of the hull and tape it to the hull above the copper line. I have a soft pad to set the model on while I'm working, but even it will abrade the foil as the model moves. I think I need to have the padding stationary, tight against the foil and moving with the model.
 
Also, does anyone have any thoughts on masking in order to paint the red section along the top of the copper. In his practicum Bob suggests that masking tape will tend to pull the plates off when removed and instead he uses frisket film. I have never used such a product and judging by the pictures in the practicum, it doesn't look all that user-friendly to me. I'm just curious how others have handled this.
 
David

Happy Tuesday Everyone,
A bit of progress to report. I've finished plating the starboard side of the model.  I followed the LSS practicum and found it to be quite helpful. The concept of dividing the hull into gores was easy to grasp and it worked out well. The results are acceptable, if not stellar. It looks fine from a "normal" viewing distance of 50' or so , but up close it's full of flaws. It isn't too hard a process in theory, and in most aspects it isn't too hard in practice either, but it is challenging to get the plates in consistent even rows. If you look closely at mine, you'll see a few sine waves!.
 
The foil is very fragile and I'm a bit worried about protecting this side as I work on the other one. I think I'll thumb tack some padding along the bottom of the keel, run it up the side of the hull and tape it to the hull above the copper line. I have a soft pad to set the model on while I'm working, but even it will abrade the foil as the model moves. I think I need to have the padding stationary, tight against the foil and moving with the model.
 
Also, does anyone have any thoughts on masking in order to paint the red section along the top of the copper. In his practicum Bob suggests that masking tape will tend to pull the plates off when removed and instead he uses frisket film. I have never used such a product and judging by the pictures in the practicum, it doesn't look all that user-friendly to me. I'm just curious how others have handled this.
 
David

Happy Wednesday Everyone,
I have a bit of progress to report. I've started the copper plating and so far so good, although there's a long way to go. The gunport lids are the next thing after the plating and since they're a multi-step process - sanding, several coats of paint both sides, adding hinges, drilling etc. I decided to get them going simultaneously so they'll be all ready to add when I have the copper finished. In the picture they're edged sanded with one coat of poly applied to the first side.
 
Also thanks for all the likes.
 
David 

Happy Tuesday Everyone,
A bit of progress to report. I've finished plating the starboard side of the model.  I followed the LSS practicum and found it to be quite helpful. The concept of dividing the hull into gores was easy to grasp and it worked out well. The results are acceptable, if not stellar. It looks fine from a "normal" viewing distance of 50' or so , but up close it's full of flaws. It isn't too hard a process in theory, and in most aspects it isn't too hard in practice either, but it is challenging to get the plates in consistent even rows. If you look closely at mine, you'll see a few sine waves!.
 
The foil is very fragile and I'm a bit worried about protecting this side as I work on the other one. I think I'll thumb tack some padding along the bottom of the keel, run it up the side of the hull and tape it to the hull above the copper line. I have a soft pad to set the model on while I'm working, but even it will abrade the foil as the model moves. I think I need to have the padding stationary, tight against the foil and moving with the model.
 
Also, does anyone have any thoughts on masking in order to paint the red section along the top of the copper. In his practicum Bob suggests that masking tape will tend to pull the plates off when removed and instead he uses frisket film. I have never used such a product and judging by the pictures in the practicum, it doesn't look all that user-friendly to me. I'm just curious how others have handled this.
 
David

Happy Tuesday Everyone,
A bit of progress to report. I've finished plating the starboard side of the model.  I followed the LSS practicum and found it to be quite helpful. The concept of dividing the hull into gores was easy to grasp and it worked out well. The results are acceptable, if not stellar. It looks fine from a "normal" viewing distance of 50' or so , but up close it's full of flaws. It isn't too hard a process in theory, and in most aspects it isn't too hard in practice either, but it is challenging to get the plates in consistent even rows. If you look closely at mine, you'll see a few sine waves!.
 
The foil is very fragile and I'm a bit worried about protecting this side as I work on the other one. I think I'll thumb tack some padding along the bottom of the keel, run it up the side of the hull and tape it to the hull above the copper line. I have a soft pad to set the model on while I'm working, but even it will abrade the foil as the model moves. I think I need to have the padding stationary, tight against the foil and moving with the model.
 
Also, does anyone have any thoughts on masking in order to paint the red section along the top of the copper. In his practicum Bob suggests that masking tape will tend to pull the plates off when removed and instead he uses frisket film. I have never used such a product and judging by the pictures in the practicum, it doesn't look all that user-friendly to me. I'm just curious how others have handled this.
 
David

Hi Ken, the transom is looking beautiful!
David

I think the bands on the pumps look terrific.
D

I think the bands on the pumps look terrific.
D

I think the bands on the pumps look terrific.
D

Your workmanship is flawless! The pumps look pretty nice as they are, but I don't think black bands would be out of place at all. I would probably be adding them if it was my model.
David

Your workmanship is flawless! The pumps look pretty nice as they are, but I don't think black bands would be out of place at all. I would probably be adding them if it was my model.
David

Your workmanship is flawless! The pumps look pretty nice as they are, but I don't think black bands would be out of place at all. I would probably be adding them if it was my model.
David

Hi Ken, the transom is looking beautiful!
David

Hi Greg, Boy, you're really motorin' along. I can barely read your posts as quickly as you're progressing. Here's a picture of my model at the stage you're at now. For those top window pieces, I rough cut each one to length more or less and then just continually sanded the tops and ends until I had a half decent fit. I put a small brad in each piece to use as a handle to hold it in place as I test fitted it. Once I decided it was ok, I glued it in and when the glue was set, I pulled the pin out. You can see the pin holes in a couple of places. If I remember right, I left each one a wee bit too thick from top to bottom, then when the glue was set, sanded the bottom of each piece until the windows just nicely slid into place and fit snugly.
 
I was interested in your finding that you needed to bevel the inner two transom frames. I didn't feel I needed to do that and I was quite happy with the flow of the windows across the back. They are an odd shape and it would seem they can be placed effectively with or without the beveling.
 
I'm really enjoying watching your progress.
 
David

Hi Greg, Boy, you're really motorin' along. I can barely read your posts as quickly as you're progressing. Here's a picture of my model at the stage you're at now. For those top window pieces, I rough cut each one to length more or less and then just continually sanded the tops and ends until I had a half decent fit. I put a small brad in each piece to use as a handle to hold it in place as I test fitted it. Once I decided it was ok, I glued it in and when the glue was set, I pulled the pin out. You can see the pin holes in a couple of places. If I remember right, I left each one a wee bit too thick from top to bottom, then when the glue was set, sanded the bottom of each piece until the windows just nicely slid into place and fit snugly.
 
I was interested in your finding that you needed to bevel the inner two transom frames. I didn't feel I needed to do that and I was quite happy with the flow of the windows across the back. They are an odd shape and it would seem they can be placed effectively with or without the beveling.
 
I'm really enjoying watching your progress.
 
David

Hi Greg, Boy, you're really motorin' along. I can barely read your posts as quickly as you're progressing. Here's a picture of my model at the stage you're at now. For those top window pieces, I rough cut each one to length more or less and then just continually sanded the tops and ends until I had a half decent fit. I put a small brad in each piece to use as a handle to hold it in place as I test fitted it. Once I decided it was ok, I glued it in and when the glue was set, I pulled the pin out. You can see the pin holes in a couple of places. If I remember right, I left each one a wee bit too thick from top to bottom, then when the glue was set, sanded the bottom of each piece until the windows just nicely slid into place and fit snugly.
 
I was interested in your finding that you needed to bevel the inner two transom frames. I didn't feel I needed to do that and I was quite happy with the flow of the windows across the back. They are an odd shape and it would seem they can be placed effectively with or without the beveling.
 
I'm really enjoying watching your progress.
 
David

Hi Ken, the transom is looking beautiful!
David

Dave, I started the copper according to Hunt's practicum, although I deviate at times. The two "slots" on the bottom of the hull are for a custom stand I made and I will copper that spot as the very last project. The very bottom of the hull; I plan to just use two plates and have them overlap each other. I'm running out of copper and  I will have to buy another roll of tape, and was expecting to, as stated in Hunt's practicum. I've been at a standstill because I'm doing some work around my house, but plan to finish the coppering by April 1st. Thanks for all the help everyone!!

Denis and Dave, thank you for the edging suggestions. Yesterday I tried both techniques and like them equally, then prepped possibly enough 100 mm planks to do the next two decks. The just completed lower deck is satisfactory to my eye but of course gets not quite the best grades with close photography - you know what the camera discovers! Tests with your techniques look to produce a superior finish and will be used going forward.
 
Big John, thanks for looking in. This project is really fun. I am pleased with the fit and the quality of components. I just may end up working my way well into my wine cellar before there is a mantle worthy product.
 
I put perhaps eight coats of matte varnish on the deck with a steel wool rub down in-between each application. Prior to final installation the deck was given one last steel wool rubdown to give it a weathered appearance. The area below the hatches was painted dark brown but to no avail because it is not visible.
 
I like the unusual detail on the hatch tops not withstanding prior valid comments that in real life those details could present a tripping hazard. Once painted I am challenged to see if the openings aren't square.
 

 
This was a test dry fit.
 

 
A permanent home for the lower deck. It now sits firmly on the applicable frames and the false keel.
 

 
Respectfully,
John Maguire
Total Time 44 hours
 

Hi Dave,
I'm interested to see that you've used (or at least of thought of using) Benjamin Moore paint in sample sizes. That is exactly what I did on my Constitution, but have been hesitant to mention it for fear of causing some of the purists out there to have a stroke. I was sure I was breaking a rule, but I knew it would take a bit of experimenting to get the colours right. There isn't a model paint supplier anywhere near where I live and ordering by mail coupled with trial and error was going to be a nightmare. We do have a Benjamin Moore dealer in town, but instead I used the house brand from our local Home Hardware (a Canadian chain.) The clerk there was enormously helpful and even researched pictures on line herself to help me find colours. While my green is only ok, I'm very happy with the dull pale red I found for the gun carriages. I also found a great colour to simulate natural wood which I'm using for the trim on the small boats as that basswood doesn't take even a light stain very well.
 
David

It worked pretty well; I just wish I'd thought of it before I bought the dry transfer letters which I found almost impossible to work with. Any thoughts for the numbering that runs down the bow?
 
David

It worked pretty well; I just wish I'd thought of it before I bought the dry transfer letters which I found almost impossible to work with. Any thoughts for the numbering that runs down the bow?
 
David

Happy Wednesday Everyone,
I have a bit of progress to report. I've started the copper plating and so far so good, although there's a long way to go. The gunport lids are the next thing after the plating and since they're a multi-step process - sanding, several coats of paint both sides, adding hinges, drilling etc. I decided to get them going simultaneously so they'll be all ready to add when I have the copper finished. In the picture they're edged sanded with one coat of poly applied to the first side.
 
Also thanks for all the likes.
 
David 

Happy Wednesday Everyone,
I have a bit of progress to report. I've started the copper plating and so far so good, although there's a long way to go. The gunport lids are the next thing after the plating and since they're a multi-step process - sanding, several coats of paint both sides, adding hinges, drilling etc. I decided to get them going simultaneously so they'll be all ready to add when I have the copper finished. In the picture they're edged sanded with one coat of poly applied to the first side.
 
Also thanks for all the likes.
 
David