GuntherMT

That's why I ripped out all the carpet in my workroom and put in hardwood flooring..   No more carpet-monster!

Personally, I like 1:48.  It's just a nice scale IMO, where detailing can be done, and the parts are still large enough that I don't destroy my eyeballs.  No technical reasons really, other than I'd like the blocks to be large enough I can pick them up and use them.. lol.

The 1/64 boats are now on the Vanguard website.

That's why I ripped out all the carpet in my workroom and put in hardwood flooring..   No more carpet-monster!

For kit builders, a scale preference is pretty much subsumed by the designer of the kit.  In that situation, a scale preference of a modeler would only serve to limit the choice of kits.
My prejudice tells me that a kit manufacturer starts with a small range of final model size and selects a scale that yields that finished size.  No historical based factor is involved.
(For one notorious kit, Mamoli's Beagle, I think they had the Bounty hull to hand and just changed the scale on the new plans such that it came out to be the length of Beagle.  The shape is not even close to a Cherokee class brig.)
 
When I began this, it was steel rulers and vernier calipers.  The kits and plans still reflect the past requirement to work  with 1/64" being about as close an increment as could be seen seen.
This is why 1:96,  1:76, 1:64.
The dominance of 1:48 is because the majority of available original plans are this scale.
This heritage and now museum scale (1:48) allows for a lot of detail.  A problem with it is that for rated ships, for frigates and larger, a model is an inconvenient size.
 
For me, metric or Imperial became irrelevant with a availability of digital calipers.  It can measure in decimals.  No more fractions, so Imperial is just as useful as metric.
 
I like the detail at 1:48, but not the size.  I use 1:48 as my baseline, though.  I figured that working in a scale that was 1/2 museum would still allow for detail but an easier to manage sized model.
This is 1:60.  The reduction in X, Y, Z  is 0.8.  The numbers are easy to keep track of.  I just divide the full size data component value by 60.  The volume of a model is 50% of a museum scale model.
The more common 1:64 is very close - X,Y,Z  0.75  and volume is 42% of museum.
Some other scales:
1:70 is 0.7 and 33%
1:72 is 0.67 and 30%
1:76 is 0.63 and 25%
1:80 is 0.6 and 22%
1:96 is 0.5 and 12.5%
1:120 is 0.4 and 6.4%
1:192 is 0.25 and 1.5%
 
 
 
 
 

IPMS (International Plastic Modelers Society) has very strict definitions for "out of box" and "scratch".  Pretty much anything that doesn't meet those two categories is considered a "kit bash" or simply "not out of box".  I use IPMS in this conversation because as far as I know they are one of the largest modeling organizations around the world, and wooden ships have been allowed in all of their official competitions for many years now.
 
For a wooden ship model, you could replace rigging line and a couple other very minor bits and still meet the definition of "out of box", but if you've replaced crappy kit wood with anything other than identical type (like to replace a warped piece), for example replacing the kit basswood deck with Holly or Boxwood, you have entered the "not out of box" realm, which is pretty much what I consider to be a kit-bash.

My build of the "Carmen" qualified as out of box by the IPMS judges (but just barely - the replacement blocks were debated as to whether they were part of the rigging or not), while my AVS was clearly in the kit-bash (not out of box) category because I replaced so much of the kit wood and parts.
 
However a 'bash' can go far beyond that.  I could start with the kit for the Pride of Baltimore for example, but modify it in such a way to create a model of the "Californian" and that would not be a scratch model since I used the kit as my basis, it would be a kit-bash.

Where the line is crossed from kit-bash to full scratch has been an item of much debate over the years, so I won't even go into that. 
 

Personally, I like 1:48.  It's just a nice scale IMO, where detailing can be done, and the parts are still large enough that I don't destroy my eyeballs.  No technical reasons really, other than I'd like the blocks to be large enough I can pick them up and use them.. lol.

The planks that go around the mast partners and coamings are difficult to make and took some careful planning. In a failed attempt, I tried to make all the cutouts at one time. Rather than waste more wood, I decided to make card stock templates that closely matched the area being worked on. The plan was to work one tab at a time. Once a tab was completed, I would then move onto the next tab.
 

 

 
This template was tricky because it required spanning two tabs in order to establish the proper shape. Notice how the tab tapers in width.

 
When it came time to glue, I adhered a short section of the plank to the false deck. This would make it easier to finish up the remaining unglued areas afterwards. Softer wood strips were used as clamps against the margin plank.

 
Once the glue was set, I moved onto gluing the remaining areas of the plank.

 
Pillar files and a sanding stick were used to shape the parts. Sticky back sandpaper was adhered to the stick and sanded flush with its edge.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
Mike
 
 

I have had a good day in the shipyard. I started off by adding the missing decorations to the port side. I also added the horseshoe and fish plates to the hull.

 
I then decided to build and dry fit the mid ship bulkhead assembly. This was a nice task and fits really well. A really nice bit of design work by Chris.

 
I then added the window and gun port decorations to the starboard side. I just need to add the decorations patterns to complete this task. I did add a black backing sheet behind the quarter gallery window.

 

When I was drilling holes for the deck on my AVS I used the Dremel with a small drill bit.  Instead of putting a piece of wood on it like you are describing, I just used a small piece of Tamiya 1/8" wide masking tape and wrapped it around the drill bit at about the max depth I wanted the holes to be.  Since the depth of the holes isn't critical, I simply stopped drilling just before I got to the masking tape, it was a visual reference point, not a hard 'stop' for the bit.

IPMS (International Plastic Modelers Society) has very strict definitions for "out of box" and "scratch".  Pretty much anything that doesn't meet those two categories is considered a "kit bash" or simply "not out of box".  I use IPMS in this conversation because as far as I know they are one of the largest modeling organizations around the world, and wooden ships have been allowed in all of their official competitions for many years now.
 
For a wooden ship model, you could replace rigging line and a couple other very minor bits and still meet the definition of "out of box", but if you've replaced crappy kit wood with anything other than identical type (like to replace a warped piece), for example replacing the kit basswood deck with Holly or Boxwood, you have entered the "not out of box" realm, which is pretty much what I consider to be a kit-bash.

My build of the "Carmen" qualified as out of box by the IPMS judges (but just barely - the replacement blocks were debated as to whether they were part of the rigging or not), while my AVS was clearly in the kit-bash (not out of box) category because I replaced so much of the kit wood and parts.
 
However a 'bash' can go far beyond that.  I could start with the kit for the Pride of Baltimore for example, but modify it in such a way to create a model of the "Californian" and that would not be a scratch model since I used the kit as my basis, it would be a kit-bash.

Where the line is crossed from kit-bash to full scratch has been an item of much debate over the years, so I won't even go into that. 
 

IPMS (International Plastic Modelers Society) has very strict definitions for "out of box" and "scratch".  Pretty much anything that doesn't meet those two categories is considered a "kit bash" or simply "not out of box".  I use IPMS in this conversation because as far as I know they are one of the largest modeling organizations around the world, and wooden ships have been allowed in all of their official competitions for many years now.
 
For a wooden ship model, you could replace rigging line and a couple other very minor bits and still meet the definition of "out of box", but if you've replaced crappy kit wood with anything other than identical type (like to replace a warped piece), for example replacing the kit basswood deck with Holly or Boxwood, you have entered the "not out of box" realm, which is pretty much what I consider to be a kit-bash.

My build of the "Carmen" qualified as out of box by the IPMS judges (but just barely - the replacement blocks were debated as to whether they were part of the rigging or not), while my AVS was clearly in the kit-bash (not out of box) category because I replaced so much of the kit wood and parts.
 
However a 'bash' can go far beyond that.  I could start with the kit for the Pride of Baltimore for example, but modify it in such a way to create a model of the "Californian" and that would not be a scratch model since I used the kit as my basis, it would be a kit-bash.

Where the line is crossed from kit-bash to full scratch has been an item of much debate over the years, so I won't even go into that. 
 

When I was drilling holes for the deck on my AVS I used the Dremel with a small drill bit.  Instead of putting a piece of wood on it like you are describing, I just used a small piece of Tamiya 1/8" wide masking tape and wrapped it around the drill bit at about the max depth I wanted the holes to be.  Since the depth of the holes isn't critical, I simply stopped drilling just before I got to the masking tape, it was a visual reference point, not a hard 'stop' for the bit.

It's looking good Eric.  You are doing a good job of spotting your mistakes and learning from them, which is key!
 
I did notice you made a comment about not having enough sawdust to mix with glue for filler.  A sanding drum on your Dremel tool with the cut-offs from the planks will very rapidly fix that issue for future projects.  I've found that making filler like this, mixing white glue/water mix with the sand dust from the same wood I'm planking with makes the absolute best filler and once sanded in and finished nobody will even know it's there.
 
Will follow along as you complete this little boat.  I have this kit partially completed (partially planked) and just never completed it.  Maybe I'll get back to it as a side project someday.

I just noticed that it has been a month since I last updated this log. So here goes! In the pictures below you will see I have installed the molding below the Frieze along each side. I spent some time working out how to scrape the Boxwood, and I am pleased with the outcome. I have completed chapter 3 with the exception of drilling the hull planks for the Black filament. I decided to get to the point of drilling all the pieces at once. I am also trying to work out a reliable method for this drilling.
 
In a previous post I mentioned that I purchased some black art tape from Amazon that was 1/32" wide. The intent was to use the tape for the lining off of the bulkheads. I found that the 1/32" wide did not have enough adhesion to work for that purpose. so I went with a wider tape. But as you will see below I think I have found an excellent use for the 1/32" tape. I laid the hull upside down with a very bright light underneath. I then marked the location of the frames with the tape. I have also bent the floorboards to shape and marked them as well. I then took a #77 drill bit and placed a piece of scrap wood on the end and made sure only 3/64" of the bit would show. Then I tested it on scrap wood. Using my Dremel I have done several test drills and glued filament in place. I have found that it is too easy to press too hard and mar the surface. So I am rethinking this approach. If I can find my pin vice I will try the manual solution for 1000 holes! 
 
Suggestions and comments very welcome. I want these holes to come out so they look good and are in a straight line.
 
 I am also working on the bow & stern platforms. I remade the bow platform once (Thanks for the spare parts Chuck). Enjoy the pictures and stay tuned. 
 
 

More functionality. Version 1.0.5 is on the website:
 
https://www.durant.biz/pictureresizer/
 

 
If you check the checkbox that says: "View each file individually before resizing", it'll come up with an image preview window for each picture that's going to be resized. In that window you have the option to manually rotate the image, and/or flip it horizontally or vertically. Then you can either resize that image, or skip it, and it will go on to the next image that's queued up to be resized. 
 

 
Again it doesn't make any changes to the original file. Just the new one. I haven't documented it yet, but I will when I get a moment, and I'll do a video too.
 
Hope it's helpful.
 
Rob
 

Har har...I keep reading how e gets in the way....you'd think after 70+ years on this planet I'd remember that...anyway, the mobile shipyard with removable jig is done....on to building....think I found a local print house that will be able to copy the plans so that i cut them up as many of you have recommended.
 
and....even tho' Im a Canuck....go Packers!!

Nice comparison.  Really shows a significant difference in grain and roughness, thanks for adding this.

It's looking good Eric.  You are doing a good job of spotting your mistakes and learning from them, which is key!
 
I did notice you made a comment about not having enough sawdust to mix with glue for filler.  A sanding drum on your Dremel tool with the cut-offs from the planks will very rapidly fix that issue for future projects.  I've found that making filler like this, mixing white glue/water mix with the sand dust from the same wood I'm planking with makes the absolute best filler and once sanded in and finished nobody will even know it's there.
 
Will follow along as you complete this little boat.  I have this kit partially completed (partially planked) and just never completed it.  Maybe I'll get back to it as a side project someday.

Looking good.  Sanding tip for soft wood (I'm unsure if this is a double planked model or if that is the final planking and will be painted) - get the wood damp.  Don't soak it, just run a wet cloth across it.  That will cause the grain to raise, then when it's dry give it another final sanding and it will smooth out very nicely.

I drew a stupid picture in Paint to hopefully demonstrate better than my words what the 'jig' would look like in order to get a bunch of cuts at the exact same length.  The brown boards are glued to the base board.  The blue board is just stuck into the jig for cutting and held by hand.
 

The cool thing about a little jig like this is you can use it for all kinds of different lengths, just add new slots for the new lengths, and you can write a note onto the base board at each cut telling you what that specific cut length was for.

Boys and girls! Bought my first ship kit based on my research and all the advice given here. Thanks again to all those that chimed in to help. Much appreciated indeed. Vanguard The Royal Yacht Duchess of Kingston 1778 was the winner. . Looking forward to starting her soon once it arrives.

I had another go at the fiberglassing today and things went much better, faster, and easier. Why is it always the first crack at any new skill that sucks the worst? My daughter simply observed that it's like the first pancakes in a batch, which I thought was a good analogy.

I began the hull planking process. This is going to be interesting lol. My first build didn't require individual planks so I researched the heck outta this process. I found Chuck's videos on plank bending extremely informative.  I've actually begun making my own bending station similar to his. Admittedly I'm pretty excited about it! 
 
I also mentioned in my first log that I was going to make a better keel clamp. I found one on eBay similar, if not identical, to DocBlake's homemade clamp (which is brilliant btw) so that should arrive soon. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if this clamp I purchased is from one of you guys 😄
 
A couple pics of the hull thus far:

Nice comparison.  Really shows a significant difference in grain and roughness, thanks for adding this.