GuntherMT

Just one guys opinion, but I much prefer the larger pictures where you said you couldn't insert comments.
 
Not sure how it looks on your Chromebook, but the forum should handle all your photo's without any problem, which puts them in a 'pool' of images to use in your post.  

You type whatever you want to type, and wherever you want an image you place the cursor and then scroll down to your images and click the "+" (plus) sign on that image and the forum software inserts it into your post at that location.

If you don't do that step, then all the photo's will just be at the end of your post.
 
My method is generally to upload and insert one photo at a time while I'm typing in the post so that I get them all where I want them.

Vanguard is getting a lot of recommendations, but I don't think (I could be wrong) that anything is in the large size range being looked for here (36").
 
Take a look at the Winchelsea that Chuck (Syren Ship Model Company) designed and is making.  It's a larger scale and builds into a pretty good sized model.  It's a work in progress but far enough along that it might be difficult to catch up and run out of instructions and things!

I will take the Baltimore off your hands. Ill pm you

Great job and congratulations on completing the Cheerful!

Hi all.  This is Gregg from a suburb of the Kansas City MO/KS metropolitan area.  Sixteen years ago (2005), with one child just graduating college and one still in college, I decided I needed a new hobby, and purchased the Bluenose as my first ship to build.  Overwhelmed doesn't describe it.  After working on the initial basics of the ship, I put it back in the box and up on a closet shelf to be forgotten.  Sixteen years later, I am recently retired after a long accounting career, and found it buried in the back of a spare bedroom closet shelf.  Other than my meat-smoking hobby (I am, after all, living in Kansas City!), I decided to take another shot at ship building.
 
Well, after pulling it all back out, again looking at plans, reading many of the build logs on this site, etc., I decided perhaps the Bluenose was still a bit aggressive for a first build as a novice builder.  So, I have taken a few steps back and have selected the Norwegian Sailing Pram and the Muscongus Bay Lobster Smak as my first two.  Anxiously awaiting for their arrival.  But, in the meantime, preparing my workspace, checking on my tools and supplies, and continuing to read blogs and posts like these, ship building logs, videos, etc.  I am determined to make this a slow, yet progressive, journey.  And, have fun along the way.  I look forward to the journey.  Will try to keep all updated on my adventures.  Thanks!

I have a Tamiya Tirpitz German Battleship kit 1:350 scale for sale for $40.00 plus shipping cost to the lower 48 states. The box has been opened, but the kit has not been started. the Hull length is 30". It can be built static or R/C with the included gear box and motor. The kit is from the early 90's.

Next step is the gluing of the frames to the keel.  Per the instructions I started with the aft building board, and dry fit repeatedly until I was comfortable with being able to get it all together in a reasonable period of time with the least amount of fuss.
 

 
It was then left to dry overnight.  After work the following day, I glued up the front frame half of the building board, and left the entire glued up frames to dry.
 

 
The awesome fun part comes after this, fairing the frames.  Over a couple of nights interrupted by an attempted insurrection that kept me glued to live news for far too long, I completed the fairing of the starboard side earlier this evening.  Since I actually did one side completely it seemed like a cool idea to take some pictures that showed the difference between a faired and unfaired side.
 

 
And that's where the longboat currently sits progress wise.  I have plans that will not allow much time on fairing until Sunday, so unlikely that I'll have an update until after that. 

Cheers!

So after posting the above about this model being packed away, I completed most of the immediate preparation for my big scratch build I plan to start, and found myself with a sudden desire to get back into the shop.  It will probably be at least another couple of months before I have everything I want in place to start the scratch build, so I made a few different clamps as prototypes, then for whatever reason since Chuck had posted and brought this back up from the grave after 2 years, I pulled it off the shelf and have continued the build.
 
If I don't finish it before starting the big project, I'll try to keep it out and work on it from time to time.
 
In any case, lets post an update!  I've made a bit of progress as I didn't want to post an update and then immediately shelve it again, so this will be a fair bit of progress plopped into one post.
 
First up, of course I needed to build the 3 piece frames, as none of them had been assembled yet.
 

 
As seen in many other build logs, the assembly of these frames is very straightforward thanks to the design of this kit with the laser guide line.  Cut out the pieces (1 frame at a time), clean off the char from the few areas needed per the instructions, and use a straight edge and the laser cut guide line to locate the floor.  Glue up, clean up any extra glue and clamp to set.
 

 
After this of course you just continue assembling frames and dry fitting them into the build board and keel.  Slight sanding needed for fitment, otherwise no issues at all.
 
I assembled the frames and fit them 3 at a time until they were all complete.
 

 
Continued next post... 
 
 

OK, Jim (Hatch) has put together the three mini coat kits that will be standard for the Sphinx kit, a 22' yawl (£24), 24' launch (£25.50) and 28' pinnace (£28.50). And he has done a marvellous job, I think.
 
I am hoping to have a few of each in stock next week, to buy individually, as Jim is doing a little online (PDF) build manual for each.
 
The 18'cutter is also getting a small revamp, in keeping with the new releases. The boat kits will have extensive laser cut parts, in pearwood (0.6 and 1mm), including laser cut pear oars, thwarts/stern sheets and gunwales if applicable,  and MDF bulkheads and building base. The keel for all new boats is 1mm pear, to keep the scale look, plus a PE sheet for the finer detail (floor/gratings and 'iron work)
 
A little later, I will have a 36 and 34' launch, 32' barge and 32' pinnace, and finally a 36' admirals barge, which will be suited for a larger model with the single boat on/in the waist
 

A gentleman says that he has sent payment, so it's pending the receipt of payment, but I expect that he's not playing games and it's sold.  Thanks.

Update: I thought the box my kit came in was destroyed but I actually found it 😂

This is my first build log (please forgive me if it lacks pertinent info) for this ship kit, however, not my first build. I finished a little schooner years ago but cannot remember the brand nor year I purchased it (sorry). I can post some pics of it if anyone is interested. I started the Albatros about 6 years ago but then life happened and it had to be put into storage. I no longer have the box it came in but luckily I haven’t lost any of the parts. I don’t know much about this type of ship other than it was built around 1840 at the Baltimore shipyards. It was designed to defend the Atlantic coast with its speed and easy maneuverability.
 
The kit came with a false deck where the bulkhead frames of the hull do not come above the deck. The instructions had me plank the deck with individual planks before planking the hull. This is as far as I progressed. I didn’t place any caulking material between the planks and now I wish I had. I made tiny pinhole marks on the timber to resemble nail heads. At the time, I decided I wanted to distress the deck planking but now I’m rather regretting it. I’m guessing a wood stain would help conceal the damage? I haven’t applied any sealer to it yet thank goodness.
 
I would like to construct a better keel clamp before I move forward as the one I have now is quite awkward and unreliable. I’ve seen many tutorials for this so hopefully next time I post I will have something to show you. That’s all I have for you now, and please, any suggestions/advice will be appreciated by this amateur builder😄
 
~ Rachel

I'm Rachel, a total newb to this website and just beginning to navigate it. Oh that was bad 😂 I just brought my unfinished Albatros out of storage and I am looking forward to completing her and (hopefully) displaying her if the outcome is pleasing. Only time will tell! I've only built one other ship, a schooner, and I absolutely loved the process. So much more to learn and I hope I can count on you all for some friendly, helpful advice along the way 👍

Happy New year to all 
I am happily retired in Somerset UK. Career background in engineering. Have been  wood carving for nearly 15 years but have always held a keen interest and fascination in "Nelson era" sailing ships. Having watched many YouTube videos on ship modelling l decided it was time to have a go. Looking through some of your Build Logs brigantine Leon lept out as a suitable subject having got the plans and Harold Underhills books. But not wishing to run before walking l bought H. M. Schooner Pickle kit as perhaps a more modest starting point. Hope to create build log as it progresses. 
Hope this is acceptable as an introduction. Many apologies if long winded. 
Regards 
Pete Collins 

I decided to start adding the decorations to the hull. I have worked on the port side from stern to midships. The patterns have really added another dimension to the hull. Over the next couple of days I should be able to complete this task for both the port and starboard sides.
 
Picture of port side decorations

 
Picture of Quarter Gallery Window. I added a black sheet behind the window frame. With a steady hand I will touch up the paint work around the window frame.

 
Picture of the two side windows. The left hand frame should have been positioned better I have only noted the error when looking at the photo. I might apply some acetone to remove it and to then reposition. There was no need to add a black sheet as the deck is visible through both windows.

Shaping the Bow Filler Block and Fairing the Bulkheads
 
Friday already!
 
At this time work progressing on multiple related fronts: beveling the frames (to get the lines for the blocking), testing different ways to shape the blocks, and templating and making the bow gundeck framing.  Also inventory/segregating the stock lumber in the kit.
 
Using sanding blocks by Dowl-It to shape the bevels.  The rounded blocks give tight control.  Quick work.
 
Shaping the blocks with chisel, rasp (most effective), file, and Flexifiles.  Using contour templates to measure progress.  Pin nailed temporary blocks to the block to allow holding in the vise.  Nails did get in the way so removed them.  Getting through the first piece is time consuming, the remaining three should go faster.
 
First time shaping multiple blocks, so deciding on and establishing my methodology, for future reuse.
 
Same with making the bow framing.  Initial thought was to use a single template to mark the lumber, but the pencil line would increase the size of the part, so going with double sided tape to attach individual templates.

Goal is to have all blocks installed by Monday.  
 
Have a good weekend!
 
-Rich
 
 

 
 

Hello folks,  I hope everyone enjoyed their holidays.   Its been awhile since my last installment.   Today's focus is on the ground tackle and making the flag which upon completion essentially completes the entire build project.  
 
Cheerful has your traditional anchor design from the period.   Syren provides a very nice laser cut mini kit to make the anchors which I took full advantage of in my build.  In the first photo you can see one of the two assembled anchors:
 

Black artist tape is used to simulate the iron banding.  I used some rust powder to show some affects of salt and general weathering of the anchor.
 
Here is another view:
 

 
 
 
In the photo below, the anchors are positioned on the cap-rail ready to be secured with line.   
 

 
For the flag, the instructions provide a scale graphic that can be printed out on any ink jet printer.    Chuck suggests gluing a piece of tissue paper, similar to what you may have used to wrap all those great gifts you gave out this year ;  ) to a regular 8 1/2"x11" paper for printing.      Once printed you can use some clear varnish spray liberally to help get the ink visible on both sides of the tissue paper.      You can then cut out the printed flat and use a cylindrical object, (paint brush handle) to help form the curls and waves of the flag.    The below picture shows the flag raised:
 

 
 
Final thoughts.    The HMS Cheerful is designed with the beginning scratch builder in mind.   This is a single plank on bulkhead hull using quality wood, with a relatively straight forward rigging and a wealth of precision mini kits available as options for the builder.    I personally took advantage of all the mini kits available but you certainly don't have to depending on your skill level.   
 
There were two main things that made this build a success for me and that was:
 
1).    A very well written thought out practicum by Chuck Passaro.    His writing is understandable by the novice with sufficient detail to get it right.    He not only tells you "what" to do but also in a lot of cases  "how" to do it and even more importantly "when" to do it, which for someone like me was essential.    You just don't see this with a lot of instructions.
 
2).   Even with those excellent instructions you will have questions.   For me, I had the support of the kit designer and my ship model club which I have said in the past is your most important tool in your shop hands down.  I can't thank those folks enough.
 
In the end I am very pleased with the outcome.    I learned a lot and definitely upped my game.    I still have huge areas for improvement.   My block stropping is horrendous, I still over glue, and my planking is, well lets say there is room for a lot of improvement but thats what this is all about isn't it?  This project has given me the confidence to take on more challenging subjects in the future.   There are no modeling awards in my future but there is satisfaction that you have completed a complex project and there is a sense of pride in doing so.    
 
I have already started a new project, completely scratch this time, and completely different from the Cheerful.   Stay tuned as I start a new build log on this one very soon.   Until then, here is to a better 2021!
It has to be right?    Be well
 
Bill
 

Next step is the gluing of the frames to the keel.  Per the instructions I started with the aft building board, and dry fit repeatedly until I was comfortable with being able to get it all together in a reasonable period of time with the least amount of fuss.
 

 
It was then left to dry overnight.  After work the following day, I glued up the front frame half of the building board, and left the entire glued up frames to dry.
 

 
The awesome fun part comes after this, fairing the frames.  Over a couple of nights interrupted by an attempted insurrection that kept me glued to live news for far too long, I completed the fairing of the starboard side earlier this evening.  Since I actually did one side completely it seemed like a cool idea to take some pictures that showed the difference between a faired and unfaired side.
 

 
And that's where the longboat currently sits progress wise.  I have plans that will not allow much time on fairing until Sunday, so unlikely that I'll have an update until after that. 

Cheers!

So after posting the above about this model being packed away, I completed most of the immediate preparation for my big scratch build I plan to start, and found myself with a sudden desire to get back into the shop.  It will probably be at least another couple of months before I have everything I want in place to start the scratch build, so I made a few different clamps as prototypes, then for whatever reason since Chuck had posted and brought this back up from the grave after 2 years, I pulled it off the shelf and have continued the build.
 
If I don't finish it before starting the big project, I'll try to keep it out and work on it from time to time.
 
In any case, lets post an update!  I've made a bit of progress as I didn't want to post an update and then immediately shelve it again, so this will be a fair bit of progress plopped into one post.
 
First up, of course I needed to build the 3 piece frames, as none of them had been assembled yet.
 

 
As seen in many other build logs, the assembly of these frames is very straightforward thanks to the design of this kit with the laser guide line.  Cut out the pieces (1 frame at a time), clean off the char from the few areas needed per the instructions, and use a straight edge and the laser cut guide line to locate the floor.  Glue up, clean up any extra glue and clamp to set.
 

 
After this of course you just continue assembling frames and dry fitting them into the build board and keel.  Slight sanding needed for fitment, otherwise no issues at all.
 
I assembled the frames and fit them 3 at a time until they were all complete.
 

 
Continued next post... 
 
 

Next step is the gluing of the frames to the keel.  Per the instructions I started with the aft building board, and dry fit repeatedly until I was comfortable with being able to get it all together in a reasonable period of time with the least amount of fuss.
 

 
It was then left to dry overnight.  After work the following day, I glued up the front frame half of the building board, and left the entire glued up frames to dry.
 

 
The awesome fun part comes after this, fairing the frames.  Over a couple of nights interrupted by an attempted insurrection that kept me glued to live news for far too long, I completed the fairing of the starboard side earlier this evening.  Since I actually did one side completely it seemed like a cool idea to take some pictures that showed the difference between a faired and unfaired side.
 

 
And that's where the longboat currently sits progress wise.  I have plans that will not allow much time on fairing until Sunday, so unlikely that I'll have an update until after that. 

Cheers!

Next step is the gluing of the frames to the keel.  Per the instructions I started with the aft building board, and dry fit repeatedly until I was comfortable with being able to get it all together in a reasonable period of time with the least amount of fuss.
 

 
It was then left to dry overnight.  After work the following day, I glued up the front frame half of the building board, and left the entire glued up frames to dry.
 

 
The awesome fun part comes after this, fairing the frames.  Over a couple of nights interrupted by an attempted insurrection that kept me glued to live news for far too long, I completed the fairing of the starboard side earlier this evening.  Since I actually did one side completely it seemed like a cool idea to take some pictures that showed the difference between a faired and unfaired side.
 

 
And that's where the longboat currently sits progress wise.  I have plans that will not allow much time on fairing until Sunday, so unlikely that I'll have an update until after that. 

Cheers!

So after posting the above about this model being packed away, I completed most of the immediate preparation for my big scratch build I plan to start, and found myself with a sudden desire to get back into the shop.  It will probably be at least another couple of months before I have everything I want in place to start the scratch build, so I made a few different clamps as prototypes, then for whatever reason since Chuck had posted and brought this back up from the grave after 2 years, I pulled it off the shelf and have continued the build.
 
If I don't finish it before starting the big project, I'll try to keep it out and work on it from time to time.
 
In any case, lets post an update!  I've made a bit of progress as I didn't want to post an update and then immediately shelve it again, so this will be a fair bit of progress plopped into one post.
 
First up, of course I needed to build the 3 piece frames, as none of them had been assembled yet.
 

 
As seen in many other build logs, the assembly of these frames is very straightforward thanks to the design of this kit with the laser guide line.  Cut out the pieces (1 frame at a time), clean off the char from the few areas needed per the instructions, and use a straight edge and the laser cut guide line to locate the floor.  Glue up, clean up any extra glue and clamp to set.
 

 
After this of course you just continue assembling frames and dry fitting them into the build board and keel.  Slight sanding needed for fitment, otherwise no issues at all.
 
I assembled the frames and fit them 3 at a time until they were all complete.
 

 
Continued next post... 
 
 

Next step is the gluing of the frames to the keel.  Per the instructions I started with the aft building board, and dry fit repeatedly until I was comfortable with being able to get it all together in a reasonable period of time with the least amount of fuss.
 

 
It was then left to dry overnight.  After work the following day, I glued up the front frame half of the building board, and left the entire glued up frames to dry.
 

 
The awesome fun part comes after this, fairing the frames.  Over a couple of nights interrupted by an attempted insurrection that kept me glued to live news for far too long, I completed the fairing of the starboard side earlier this evening.  Since I actually did one side completely it seemed like a cool idea to take some pictures that showed the difference between a faired and unfaired side.
 

 
And that's where the longboat currently sits progress wise.  I have plans that will not allow much time on fairing until Sunday, so unlikely that I'll have an update until after that. 

Cheers!

Very nice update, thanks.
 
Why the name change?

Next step is the gluing of the frames to the keel.  Per the instructions I started with the aft building board, and dry fit repeatedly until I was comfortable with being able to get it all together in a reasonable period of time with the least amount of fuss.
 

 
It was then left to dry overnight.  After work the following day, I glued up the front frame half of the building board, and left the entire glued up frames to dry.
 

 
The awesome fun part comes after this, fairing the frames.  Over a couple of nights interrupted by an attempted insurrection that kept me glued to live news for far too long, I completed the fairing of the starboard side earlier this evening.  Since I actually did one side completely it seemed like a cool idea to take some pictures that showed the difference between a faired and unfaired side.
 

 
And that's where the longboat currently sits progress wise.  I have plans that will not allow much time on fairing until Sunday, so unlikely that I'll have an update until after that. 

Cheers!