Ryland Craze

Here is a late Hello and Welcome to the forum from SW Ontario!  Great resources and members here.

Nice review, Kurt.
 
These models are a great introduction to the hobby. I used to read MSW off and on for several years before I decided to actually build a boat and, by then, I knew very well that starting with a nice, basic kit would be the best way to test the waters. My first build was also a dory boat, the Saint Malo by Artesania Latina. After that, I was hooked. I would have bought the MS kit if it had been available back then.

New Shipwright’s Series from Model Shipways
LOWELL GRAND BANKS DORY  -  Kit #MS1470
      Skill Level 1       Scale 1:24
Overall Length 10 inches   Overall Height 1 1/2 inches   Overall Width 3 inches
    Baseboard  3 1/2 inches x 11 inches
This is the first kit in the new Shipwright’s Series of progressive model tutorials designed by David Antscherl for Model Shipways a division of Model Expo.  These kits fill a void in our hobby for simple but good kits that teach the new model builders the necessary skills to enable them to move on to build bigger more complex kits. 
PHOTO OF FINISHED MODEL BELOW BY MODEL SHIPWAYS
27 PAGE INSTRUCTION MANUAL
For many years, Midwest Model Products manufactured a great series of kits that were designated as Level 1 through Level 4 designed to teach the beginner wood boat modeler the basic skills a wooden boat modeler needs to learn.  New ownership cancelled the line several years ago and the hobby has needed replacements which Model Shipways is now providing with the new Shipwright’s Series.
 
The Lowell Grand Banks Dory kit is labeled as a Skill Level 1 kit and the instructions say, “For this introductory kit, no previous knowledge is as­sumed or necessary”.  The second kit in the series, labeled as a Skill Level 2 kit is a 1:12 scale Norwegian Sailing Pram and the instructions say, “For this second, intermediate kit, some previous knowledge is necessary in order to be successful”.  (The Norwegian Sailing Pram is reviewed separately here on MSW).
 
 
 A nice feature of the kit series is the listing of all tools needed to build each kit. 
Unpacking the box finds a 27 page full color instruction manual, a list of all the parts contained in the box, eight sheets of laser cut Basswood, two strips of 1/16” x 1/16” x 12” Basswood, one strip of 3/64” x 1/8” x 12 Basswood, one strip of 3/64” x 3/64” x 6” Basswood and a 12” piece of 2mm (0.08”) nylon line.  Overall, the materials are very good.
 
 
There are two versions of this kit available.  The basic kit (#1470) and the basic kit with the addition of all tools, paint and glue needed to complete the kit (#1470CB).  The tools and paint included are tweezers, 6 mini spring clamps, 3 paintbrushes, 2 pieces of sandpaper (150 & 220 grit), a Model Expo brand (Xacto type) knife and 3 blades (#11, saw and chisel), wood glue, Model Expo brand 1 oz. bottles of acrylic Ochre paint and Bulwark Dark Green paint.
 
 
I highly recommend the new Shipwright series of kits from Model Shipways.  I recommend this kit for the first kit to build from the series.  If you are asked by a fledging modeler to recommend a good kit to start with I have no hesitation in recommending that they be told to look at the new Shipwright’s Series and that this kit be number one.


 
 

Looks great, and am glad to help even if it wasnt asked for!   Looks like a much smoother run bow to stern.    It is amazing how much more rigid the thing becomes as you build in these components.   Its during these steps that I found a decent sharp finger plane became very useful for removing the extra material created by the additional wood.   Much more accurate (and pleasant) than using sandpaper. 

Thanks to Justin,
Even though I used a wide angle lens for the photo, I agreed with Justin that something was off in the gun sills (starboard).  They just didn't look like a smooth transition between ports.  So I went back and researched them, found a few that were off, and fixed them by removing the original sill and replacing them.  Not too many, 4 or 5, and not very much.  However, when you multiplied the small errors across the hull, they created other issues.  Here are the results of repair/replacement with the wide angle lens, and the top sills in place, it is much smoother.   I might do the bow port, but am not sure if it is that far off.
 
 
 

good evening everyone
 
Day 44 treenailing inner planks
 
still very much work in progress, but if it dont look right, im prepared to rip it all out again, a lot of sanding still required

 

I guess not actually sold, but delivered to a new owner. 

I just sold two new Model Shipways kits that I lost interest in on eBay and was able to recoup what I paid plus enough to buy lunch (no big deal).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/114430221299?ssPageName=STRK:MESOX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1561.l2649
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/114430215984?ssPageName=STRK:MESOX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1561.l2649
 
I have found that if you open the bidding low enough (about 25% of retail) you can generate a lot of interest. And if you package it up weight and measure it then use the Ebay shipping calculator (and not try to screw the buyer). You have a real good chance of selling what ever you are selling for a good price. This goes for anything you might want to get rid of.  The perfect scenario is you get two or more bidders in a bidding war. Of course if the bidders don't show up you are obligated to sell at what ever it goes for but at least I got rid of some of my junk. And believe me I have a lot of junk.  
 
 

Resale values of kits notoriously run 50% less than retail. Which would put the value of this kit around $90.00. He posted if someone wanted it for postage. I offered considerably more than what postage should be on this kit. I'm not particularly interested in the kit and hope someone will step up and offer more than what I have. But if not, then I will take it. 

I would like all the sails to be up but the kit only comes with one, so will begin to try and make my own. I saw that someone in the build logs had done an amazing job with tissue paper (.H.M.S.Victory by JerseyCity Frankie – Heller – plastic - 1/100 – mostly rigging and sails) First effort, not as good, but it's a start. 

Adding a black and brown wash, burnt umber acrylic 5/95 water and then some detailing (black acrylic not mixed) to the mast ropes and just below each section of 'rope' to add more depth. 

Added more colours to the decking hatches, so they didn't look uniform. 

Looks nice Grant.  I am glad you have restarted this build.

Floyd, I am sure that you are not the first modeler to break a frame when fairing a Medway Longboat.  The frame broke at a place where it will be visible on the inside of the hull.  The break is about one plank width above the top of the floorboard.  If you decide that you will repair this frame, this is how I would do it.  I would first take some wax paper and place it on the laser cut seam of the frame center where the breaks occurred.  It looks like you may be able to slide some wax paper in the seam under the section of the center frame where the floor and top timber are joined together right at the break.  This should keep the removable part of the frame from being glued to the actual frame.  Next, I would glue the broken frame where the breaks occurred, both top and bottom.  Then I would glue some scrap pieces of wood on both sides of the top of the frame (side closest to the build board) to reinforce the frame where the break occurred, similar to the reinforcement you did for the single frames.  This should be covered up by the cap rail later in the build and not visible.
 
This repaired frame will be very fragile but should hold the planking very well and should be almost invisible at the break.  Just remember that you will need to fair the inside of the hull once the frame centers are removed, so go lightly on fairing this frame.  This is a minor setback as we all have had something like this happen to us.  You will get it fixed and continue on with this build.

Welcome aboard, Lars. Looks like you are already pretty accomplished!

Hello Lars, and a warm welcome to the forum from 'Down Under'.
 
John

You are off to a good start on your Beagle.  It is never too late to start a build log.  I see that there are 131 videos on YouTube of building this model.  Here is the link to these videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?reload=9&list=PLrPwa5r7zKUzDlhkDF4ztrTc2ag_wVD_a
 

Welcome to Model Ship World Lars.  The OcCre kits build into fine models.  I am glad your son "tricked" you into this hobby and that he shows an interest in your work.  I will be checking out your HMS Beagle build log.

The Sanding Phase:  ...or phases...  😄
 
After sanding the gunport sills on the starboard, it became obvious that I needed more than just one or two sanding sticks.  So I ordered paint stirring sticks, emory board sanding stick types, and Dremel barrel sanding bits.  I am still looking for Dremel sanding disks for the hard to get places, but I have a pretty good start.  I have yet to sand the deck side of the sills, but that will be when I get both sills and tops in place.  Starting on the gunport tops now.. 15/32" opening.
 

Ok, the model itself is finished, and now I've done the stand. The wooden part, painted gold, was done ages ago. The base is made of a piece from a broken slab of marble that was in the garden when we bought the house. Marble - Byzantium; of course they belong together!

 
I was going to paint a fairly elaborate decorative border - vines curling around and all that. Then I decided the focus should be on the ship, not the stand, so I've kept it simple. Just the description and date in a readable font.
 
Unfortunately after all the work I did on carving that beautiful golden stand, it's almost invisible behind the oars. 
 

 

Thanks for the encouragement and advice. I'll admit to some nervousness about planking, but have already found that some small mistakes can be corrected with a little thought and wood filler. I'll check out Chuck's advice on edge bending and I hope to be able to get started within the next couple of days.
 
Happy building!

Welcome to MSW Phil, it is a great place for support and advice. Modelling on the road? I'd like to hear how that works out.