Ryland Craze

Thanks gents, for the comments and likes.  I made the galley hatch, but it looks.. off.  I'm not sure what it is, the measurements are all good, and it's square according to my square, but it's off to my eye.  I may remake it.
 
In the meantime, I put everything on the deck together just to see it, not glued obviously and not even in exactly the right spots, but just for the visual.
 

 
Need to put a coat of poly on the hatch still, but waiting for the glue to dry since the grating is a bit touchy.  In the meantime, I can start working on figuring out the deck planking.  Woo!  

I will be offering the bulkheads pretty soon.  But thats it.   It will never be a complete kit .  Only a few items to help the scratch builder. 

● Finishing The Stern: I scanned the stern windows from the plans and imported the file into CorelDraw. I made a drawing of the windows using the scanned image as a guide. The file was then printed and trimmed to fit on the stern. I closed the 3 holes in bulkhead YY with some scrap balsa and adhered the windows using 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. The remainder of the stern was completed as per the instructions. The four laser cut knees were replaced with boxwood. These were made by hand from a single piece of wood. Laser cut knees were glued to each end and used as a guide for shaping. 1/16" wide pieces were ripped using the table saw.
 
Photo of window drawing

 

 

Hello all,
Another update on the longboat, got all the bulkheads broken out, you can see the mess in the bow from the extra blocking I had installed and the repair on the busted ribs. Followed this with a good sanding/fairing of the interior of the boat, take care here...to aggressive and you'll break more ribs leading to more repair (yea... I know from experience).
 
Once I was happy with the sanded finish I moved on to the cap rail, here I deviated from the instructions and made the template with card stock instead of directly on the basswood, that way I could trace it out as many times as I needed to get it right and not mess up the kit supplied wood. Glad I did cause it took three tries to get something I was satisfied with. The patterns were then cut out and transferred to the basswood sheet. The rails were cut oversize and applied then sanded to the finished dimensions supplied in the instructions.
 
The 1/32 x 1/32 trim was applied next, I used a compass set to the correct dimension to provide a guideline on the hull. This was followed by more sanding and a coat of primer. The hull was set aside to dry...while waiting I made the fore and aft platforms following the practicum, I added some battens to the undersides though, just to add more strength. These were then sanded and notches filled to fit around the respective ribs. I'm debating whether to stain these pieces or just use an oil finish on them...haven’t decided yet...
 
That's all for now, as always thanks for your time and attention, Pic follow
THX
J

Hi all,
Time for another update...
The planking of the hull is complete and the bulkheads removed.
  Like my Half Moon log, I'm planning to share my successes and failures here for the benefit of anyone interested, so with that said...one of the things I did early on was to add some extra blocking to the bow area to help shaping and fairing the hull planks...and it worked great for that, unfortunately I didn't think about this being an open boat!! so now I've alot of cleanup in the bow area to do.
  Another point to watch is the garboard length, Chuck's instructions call for it to end just beyond the splice in the keel I ran mine a little long and had a bit of an issue with plank crowding at the bow.  I manage to get everything in place with tapering and spilling but made it a lot harder then it had to be!
   Care needs to be taken when your breaking out the bulkheads as they are fragile, I snapped off a few and will need to repair them.  The primary cause was glue seepage...I used CA all throughout this process and some had crept into the laser cut lines, I like CA but I do have problems with it, I'm always gluing my fingers to parts or not using enough to hold.
  I'm debating doing a full painted finish on the longboat...the decorations supplied with the kit are top notch, but I'd like my longboat to be a little different from all the others out there.  I'll keep some natural wood finishes on the inside...the thwarts and side-rails at least...still trying to decide on the color scheme, I'll post when I make up my mind...in the interim Pics follow, as always thanks for your time and interest.
THX
J

So I have no idea why I thought I'd be going faster once I got to the deck furniture, because this is all new to me, so I screw up and have to remake lots of parts, but I'm learning, and am reasonably happy with the final results.
 
This morning, after working on this all day yesterday (and having started it by making the base some days ago), I completed the companionway.  Looking at everyone elses build logs, this little structure seemed neat, but nothing all that complicated, but after completing it, I counted, and there are 73 individual parts in this dumb little thing!
 

 
Today I hope to get the final hatch completed, and maybe start on the deck planking, which I've really been looking forward to!

Update on build:
 
I've now got most of the 03/04/05 Levels on the superstructure (fwd) complete and assembled. Next week the addition of the conning tower will complete the main structure. Paint, railing touchups and addition of whip antennae will get this part of the build well in hand:
 
I will then turn my attention to the lower fwd. hull corrections - I've got styrene strips in place with white putty to enlarge the "bulb" at the fwd. extreme bow and hope to correct the misshaped kit hull
 
 

The bulkheads were glued in place. After a lot of sanding, doubling up and sanding again the skeleton of the ship was approximately what I had in mind. Then the gun port patterns were glued on and the stern trimmed back to the new form.
 
 

Bulkheads and keel glued and sanded
 

Gun port patterns out of the kit
 
 

...and trimmed to the new form
 
 

bow

I dont use wider stock 90% of the time.  I usually bend my strips to the desired curve as shown below.  Only with the tightest and most extreme bends do I pre shape from a wider piece.  I have almost completed teh planking of the Cheerful hull but have five strakes to go.  These were left off because I am actually doing a tech session at this months club meeting.  It will be a step by step on how to spile and physically shape a strip so it fits perfectly against the hull.   Beveling the plank is must as well so it fits tight against the last one you placed on the hull.   It really helps...another must do...would be to line out the hull before you begin planking planking.  See the tutorials on this site.  There will be some spring back bending like this so its important to go a bit more...
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

Well, my first keeper frame turned out to be another practice version.  I have not mastered the fit of the chocks. Starting on the most visible frame is probably a tactical error.
 
Just so you know that I am not napping, the latest try has produced some advancement.  I originally planed to use copper wire darkened with Liver of Sulphur for the double frame bolts (Grant's method).  I did not have much luck with it, staining the wood as well as the copper.  Grant graciously tried to coach me through it but I did not do so well.  I started to wonder how hard it would be to make the bolts from ebony.  I had a block of ebony in the shipyard so I started to play.
 
I cut the planks to 1/32 square dowels and with the help of the Byrne's thickness sander and finally the Byrne's draw plate they turned into .032 inch round dowels.  Not too hard, it was fun.  The first picture shows the frame and the ebony.  I really like the way they look and i only have 200 or so to make. 
 

 

 
I think that I will start on the interior doubles and see how I do with those.

Paul:
Align it with the top edge as shown in the attached photo of the piece on the keel.  The other photo shows later construction - the lower surface is not important and the keel gets shaped to allow planks to lie flat over the keel.
Kurt

After adding the stern post I used a steel ruler to compare angle with transom and post.
Hmm, sure enough there was an even gap of 1mm. Another filler (trimmed) glued in place and some extra sanding and it will be good.

After chapter 5, chapter 6 seemed like a breeze.  I carved the groove in the molding strips using the method Chuck describes in chapter 10.  I don’t have a picture of it but to secure the strip while I carved it I sandwiched it in between to drafting triangles taped to the table top.  After carving them I made up a little jig to pre-form the strps to the correct curve.  Once they were dry I glued them in place.
 

 
On the second layer transom I needed to sand down the inside edge somewhat.  This is because when it was held in place it overlapped the upper outboard corners of both gun ports.  When sanding it down I took the liberty to shape it a little differently by increasing the width between the ports.  I thought it might help when placing the carving on it.
 

 
Next I attempted to bend the stern cap rail.  I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.
First attempt.  Thought I could do better.
 

Second attempt.  Thought I knew what I was doing.
 

 
Like they say, third times a charm.
 

 
Satisfied with the cap rail I made the fashion piece(s).  Again like the first layer fashion piece I made it in one piece.
Glued it all together, filled the gaps with wood filler, sanded it, couple coats of paint and finished with chapter 6.
 

 

And here the frieze is in position but not glued.

Lawrence, Welcome, I am glad to have you along for the show and thank you for you kind works. Thanks everyone for the comments and the likes.
 
Well not much of an update. I thinned out my sampson post. I don't know what I was thinking, I originally made it 6x12 inches. It should have been 3-1/2 to 4 inches thick. In stead of remaking the blocking I just shimmed it. I figured the deck planking will hide my mistake. I made 4 deck beams, and promptly lost one in the clutter on the workbench. I am not sure what would be faster, clean up the workbench or just make a new one. The Admiral votes for cleaning the workbench.
 
Well until next time, Catch Yall Later

More progress to report. I've finished the bow detailing and the masts. Am working on the yardarms and having the sails prepared by a local seamstress. After I have completed the yardarms, I plan to secure the life boats, install the hammock cranes and stanchions along with the chain plates on the hull. And then, the real fun starts - the standing and running rigging. One thing I wanted to mention is that instead of the card stock glued to the masts to simulate the metal banding, I used 3/32" black Pactra Trim Tape. I am keeping a close eye on the tape to make sure it doesn't come undone. If that happens, I'll try a drop of CA glue on the end to fix the problem. So far, they are holding just fine. Until next time...

продолжение

little progress
немного продвинулся вперёд

continuation
продолжение

Like the ratlines, it has been a long time since I last did crowsfeet, but absence did not make the heart grow fonder.  They were as much of a pain as I remembered. Minimizing distortion of the stays while getting the lines taut is the hardest part for me. They are done now, however, and its on to the topmast rigging. BTW, the photos make the rigging line look whiter and brighter than it is. It is Syren tan line and looks very good in reality.
 
Bob
 
 

Ahoy Mates
 
With all the interest I see here on MSW about airbrushing I thought it would be helpful to have a thread that allows those with more experience to share what they know with those who are just starting out in. 
 
If there are enough responses I will request the thread get pinned  
 
Please free free to post what ever you like, questions, answers, practicums, links to your videos or other logs here on MSW that you think might be helpful to others 

Just a picture revealing the white paint job done to the cap rail and rub strakes.

I used two metal bars with two bolts to clamp my hull until the copper sheeting had been applied. It is similar to what Captsteve shows above. 
 
From that point on I mounted the ship on a wooden board with the posts in place that will hold the ship in its final position.
It is a very rigid support that allows me to handle the whole thing without worries of coming loose. The board has taken a lot of abuse and will be replaced with a better looking one when the ship is finished. The picture below was taken when I made some adjustments to the sails. 
 

 
I have a lazy Jay to turn the ship around

For painting the inboard plank (to second down) I choose (after several test) Valejo  RED RLM 23.
This particular paint is intended for air brushing but turned out very nice with regular brush too.
I like it because it's not bright red, but of it's natural dirt red.
This is the first layer, some 600 grit sanding and another layer and I think I have the color I want.

Second  picture shows the brush I been using, made the mistake using a regular one in the beginning,

Cap rail and inner-board painted!
First layer and I like it as the grain of basswood (just the cap rail) is coming through.