Ryland Craze

Made the display case base. It is a simple torsion box, with holes for wiring and reinforced joints.
It is quite trivial to build, but requires accuracy and a good tolerances - all parts should have equal height and be square, otherwise it would be really tough. 
Batching out the parts:

Ready to begin!

Glue-up:


Installing diagonal cross-braces in the bottom. Note that all butt joints here are reinforced with strips from all four sides - I do not trust butt joints...

Ready! Braces are fixed with screws. The central part has no braces to allow for easy access to the electronics for LED, screws that hold it to the wall, etc.

Nevermind the ugliness, it is the underside which would be hidden from sight. 
The thing turned out heavier than I thought. 10mm plywood is not so light.. From the other hand - I want it to be a good foundation. Well, hope it will not drop from the wall!

I think that soon on this hand there will be a model of the cruiser HrMs "Java"
 
http://www.steelnavy.net/PacificCrossRoadsJava350.html

Thanks again everyone for your very generous comments.
My friend Boris, you can put any one of the photos you like on your site, I'll be honored, and I am looking forward to holding Hr. Ms. Java in my hands and start building her up.
There is still plenty of room on the O19 display board.
 
Cheers to all,

finished 7 planks up from the wale on Stbd side.

And as you have to use the chipping product ASAP, the upper hull is painted, then chipped. It makes all the work on the hull plates worth it now (the glue on the bow gave way of course) as there was no detail at all. 
 
It looks a bit stark but this is the first level of weathering. 

Hi Per,
No worries! No worries. I really did not know what is right or wrong half the time when I am on forums.... so I had to ask. Thank you for your input. The LAST thing I want to see is this forum for ship building to end.... It has been tremendously helpful to me as a new ship modeler. 
I am just taking a rest from ships and taking on a plane for respite. I am intrigued that there are two of us here now working on planes... and they happen to be arch rivals in the aviation world. There is a delicious irony (or perhaps coincidence) here. 
~john
 

And BTW, very active forum just for WWI aircraft modelers.

You guys should check this out, 1/32 meant to work with the Wingnut Wings kit(s)? WNW have most of the D.VII versions out already and at least in the fuselage there were definite differences, not sure what version(s) it's meant to work with.

 

Main Mast in place along with the bowsprit

Long time since my last update... 
Mast, spars, bowsprit, jiboom,... 

I've done two areas in the past week: the interior planking of the hold and the forward platform.
 
The platform framing was done with boxwood strip, in the same manner as the aft lower deck. The fitting of the beams was tricky, but there are only three of them. The holly deck planking was done in the same way as the aft deck planking. Again, I wasn't as careful as I might have been with the forward most part of the deck, since it will be covered by a breasthook. The framed opening is for the foremast.
 
The hold planking was done with boxwood strip. I chose to plank the entire port side (up as far as the fore platform level so far), but to only do a few planks on the starboard side. I intend to leave an open space in that planking on that side and to not resume it until the level of the exterior hull planking.The planking extends just beyond the start of the decks, fore and aft. I finished with a coat of Wipe-on Poly.
 
I'm now working on the interior stern planking and the work in the stern cabin.
 
Bob

All of the thwarts are now in place.  But no glue yet.  These are all just test fit.  The tweaking is completed and all of the pieces seem to fit together with nice tight joints.   I will glue them into place next and paint them.  She is finally getting there....  Once these are done the only major construction left is the remaining inboard planking.   After that its just the fancy bits and little detailing which makes it all come together.  The paneling and carvings ect.
 

Yet another plank. 13 to go.

Very very nice....I hope to see it in person at some point.  I will take a copy too!!!

Put me down for a signed copy of the first run of the book.
 
ben

Been awhile since my last Speedwell update. David and I were hoping to have volume one of her construction in book form by the end of the year but I suspect it might be a tad later. I do envy you retirees! 

As a continuation of the discussion earlier in this thread. I just ordered the Hagasawa 1/16th Camel kit. I'll post on the comparison of the details in the plastic and Model Airways metal parts when it arrives, some time next month. I already have the MA Camel.

Trying to decide.  Choices are AL Constellation, MS Picketboat or maybe go real crazy and scratch build an ice yacht.  Haven't decided but summer projects are distracting me at the moment plus I need to rearrange the basement workspace first.

Progress is going slow this week. I was able to get the trim installed and worked on making some oarlocks. I wasn't very excited about how the oarlocks looked so I'm seeing how wales would look. I formed the wales and I'm waiting to install them tonight.

The fore top gallant mast and yard are installed.  I spend a lot of time insuring that various lines don’t cross other lines or ‘foul’.  Some compromises must be made.  So far, compromises only involve a switch between David Antscherl and the kit.  Since an American privateer is not obliged to follow British Admiralty directives, I don’t have problems using the kit rigging plans where necessary.  Now, on to the bow.
 

I gave it much thought but i'm gonna take the plunge and change the stern.  
 
A bit further in the book of Janusz Skulski there are drawings of the rudder. It's also changed since the older version of his book and says it's based on the original Japanese drawings.
And since that shape of rudder was never going to be possible with the old stern on my ship, i decided to go for it. I hope it'll work out in the end, we'll see.
 
I've taken the dimensions of the plans which i had enlarged. There are 2 different dimensions for the stern.
 

 
First I've had to prepare a piece of pine to the correct dimensions.
 


 
With the scroll saw i obtained the needed profiles to form the stern.
 

 
Using a red marker i colored the wood which had to go, so i have an indication as where is still have to remove wood. 
 


 
A lot of wood dust was the result.
 

 
Unfortunately my first attempt was a failure, i had lost the curve at deck level. I had to redo all the steps.
 

 
My second attempt was spot on!
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 211 – Mizzen Shrouds
 
It has been over two months since the last post on Young America.  At that time I had forecast an interruption in the shop for other work of about two weeks.  So much for project scheduling.  At the end of April, the shop had to be cleared out for some dusty, full-sized woodwork – the restoration of an ornate, rotting garden arbor, construction of a large, paneled garden gate, and the resizing of an old, 3'10" wide bed to a standard single.  This work, plus a number of other things, kept me busy and kept the model safely stored in another room.  I got back to work about a week ago.
 
Over the past week, work has been focused on the lower mizzen mast rigging.  The mizzen shrouds are 8¼" rope.  As with the other standing rigging, I spun this from linen thread – three doubled strands of relatively fine size.  I believe I mentioned earlier that I wanted to avoid getting into a rope making discussion here.  There is much to be said about this subject – from theory to practice to modeling - that I think I will leave to Volume III of the book.  However, I will mention one key aspect – measuring of threads and made rope.  Regardless of the rope making method used, measurements are needed and obtaining consistent, accurate results is difficult.  The method I use is shown in the first picture that shows some mizzen shroud rope diameter being measured.
 
 
 
While I am sure others have used this simple method, I find it to be very consistent and fairly accurate.  Ten turns are wrapped around a dowel, closely spaced.  The width of the turns is then measured as shown and divided by ten to get the rope diameter – in this case .036" – close to the diameter of the 8¼" circumference rope required at 1:72.  
 
Having made the right size rope for the shrouds, it was ink dyed and cut to lengths required for each pair.  These were then served, parceled at the masthead, and seized, as shown in the next picture.
 

 
In the picture the parceling has not yet been "tarred" and the excess seizing thread ends remain.  In the next picture, the ends have been clipped, black acrylic color has been applied to the parceling, and the first pair on the starboard side pushed down over the masthead.
 

 
With all four pairs mounted, thin wood fixtures were made to hold the upper deadeyes for seizing to the shrouds.  This was discussed in an earlier post.  In the next picture the deadeye spacing is being marked on the port fixture.
 

 
The next picture shows all eight deadeyes seized to their shrouds – still mounted on the fixtures.
 

 
Lanyards for these shrouds were 3½" rope – again linen, made from three strands of the finest size.  The next picture shows the deadeyes on the port side threaded up and being tensioned before wrapping and seizing the ends to the lower shrouds.
 

 
Deadeyes were threaded by alternating sides, then given an initial tensioning.  The picture above shows the final tightening after the sheer pole was lashed above the shroud throat seizings.  The two aft lanyards have been wrapped.
 
The last picture shows the lanyards wrapped and seized with their tail ends at the back of the shrouds.
 

 
I made five turns as a standard on the model and tried to make them neat.  In practice these were less aligned and wrapping continued until the rope was used up.
 
The starboard side remains unfinished.  Two reasons: in rotating a deadeye, a chain plate broke and had to be replaced; then I ran out of 3½" rope and will need to make more to finish the last deadeye.  I hope then to move on the mizzen stay.
 
 
Ed

There is method to my madness, some photos of what I'm trying to achieve (somewhere in between)

Now, just add water. The ribs have come up OK, and a lot of it will be covered up anyway. I'll let it dry for a while then a matte coat and do the upper half. Once that's done I can start to add rust etc. 

Back to the hull. I have sprayed on some 'worn effects' fluid over the pre painted parts of the hull then about 4 shades of red trying to bring out the frames and hull plates. This photo from another ship of this class shows them up nicely. 
 
Ill give it it a few hours to dry then start rubbing back sections to reveal the undercoats. 
 
I have used some Mr Surfacer on the bottom which when oversprayed with black and grey may represent barnacles, then a bit of rust and alge.