Ryland Craze

I am a late adopter by nature and have just started the Cheerful (now at the planking stage). Seeing the incredible result you have produced, amongst others, I am inspired to go on. I realize I am among masters and that is always a welcome challenge for me. Incredible work Chuck!

This was a simply epic topic and a brilliant result. It's been a masterclass in model building and kit design. Thanks so much, Chuck. Can't wait for the next one. 

Thanks, They are laser cut mast hoops.  They are place on the shaft of my Dremel and sanded so the the outside is round off as shown below.
 
Chuck
 
 

Thank you very much for a marvellous project with all the tutorials and how to's. As the others have already said, we have learned a lot and I hope we are able to improve our humble skills when building our models.
However one question still comes to my mind when studying your work: Could you explain a little how did you make those wooden rings around the main mast? And of which material they are made?

A number of things have been accomplished. First, I added the single strake of holly planking that I intend to have below the wales. Then, I made the fashion pieces that border the counter at the stern. These were cut from boxwood sheet and sanded to shape to fit. They were painted black and mounted. Next, I added black painted moldings to the lower and upper counter. Lastly, I applied a coat of Wipe-on Poly to the counter and the lower hull from the wales down.
 
Next up will be the planking above the wales.
 
Bob

Congratulations on the completion of your Cheerful.  I have really enjoyed following your build log.  Your work is an inspiration to all of us.

Hey! I live in northern VA. Where all the wonderful traffic is!   
 
Thanks everyone for the warm welcome! I can't wait to read more here and learn a LOT!

Prop shafts done and the final coat of primer. I cut off the plastic shafts and replaced them with brass rod. 
 
The sea sea steps were filed off and replaced, I've always tried to use North Star steps and it's just hard work to trim and place them, but the idea came to me to use railings from PE, bent over my metal ruler which are easier to handle and look better. 
 
Now I actually have some panel lines to work with preshading etc will be a lot more 3D than making it up. 
 
Before i I get there tho I have to practice some new weathering techniques on a spare hull. 

Wonderful work, Mike! Your Cheerful looks great!
 
Thomas

Really beautiful, Chuck! A wonderful build log packed with lots of useful information. You are a great model builder and I'm sure that the barge will be another beauty.
 
Mike

Thank you all for the comments and "Likes"
 
Sure, Rusty! I'll make you as many as you want if you will do my rope coils.
 
Mike

Still sanding on my long boat, but I have made progress on my jolly boat. The sanding looks good and its an even thickness using the calipers. So I stained the interior and sanded the stained the wood for the framing, floorboards, thwarts and thwart supports.
I glued in the "keel" and first frames as well as did a rough gluing on the aft grate.

Thanks Slog. I've done that on the last few tubes I've rolled, even though it may not look like it .
 
Yep, Pav. I did that too .
 
And that too . I roll them on my fingertip using drill bits of diminishing size.
 
I don't know, I didn't print them myself. I had them done at a photocopy shop. I'll be using Matt Lacquer on the parts sheets of my next model before I cut anything out, and this one will be getting a coat when it's finished.
 
I had a look at the Nitrocellulose Lacquer in your link, but I'm a bit worried about this bit :
 
I'd prefer a coating that stays clear with age. Polyurethane would do that, but I don't know how it would affect other things in the build like glue adhesion.
 
 
  Danny

More tiny rolling. These Ventilators are the smallest ones on the ship - 8mm high by 0.8mm diameter. I was particularly happy with the way the cone turned out, especially as I used the 160gsm paper :
 


 
  Danny

An exercise in tube rolling. This tube is only 1mm in diameter. The Kit has the part on 160gsm card. I tried rolling that and the yellow ink came straight off, and it finished up at 1.8mm diameter. So I used the part from the 80gsm paper that I'd printed the Instructions etc on. Much better, although it has a small bulge in the middle. This can't be picked up with the naked eye . The drill bit is 0.5mm :
 


 
  Danny

Now I understand. Yes a very useful tool, but I guess one would only need a couple of sizes of them.
 
Hah, that's the technique I used to cut out the inside of the Flange in the bottom of this pic. This sub-assembly is the Boiler Intake :
 



 
I've been experimenting with using Acrylics. The Funnel in the pics below needed some touching up after rolling. I'm not at all happy with the way the printed parts have come out. The ink they used is very fragile when rolled or bent.
 


 
It's all good Pav. We are ALL foreigners if you think about it - whether we believe we came from the Garden of Eden, Atlantis or Olduvai Gorge .
 
Thank you Pav, I'll take all the help I can get .
 
  Danny

my apologies, i should really correct myself.
these engraving tools are not being used for cutting out small circular parts, they rather use them to make rivets. small rivets with rounded head. you could use that to enhance your casemates and other parts of the ship. for cutting out small circular parts the use technique of placing just a tip of scalpel (x-acto blade) and going around the diameter of the part. like stabbing the paper. in the end you end up semi-circular cut-out of rather ruff edge, but since the parts are mainly small, you cannot see the difference. i just realised that my vocabulary is still not good enough, i sound like a foreigner...
also, paper modellers do not use any kind of markers to touch up edges. rather try to use semi-dry paintbrush dipped in acrylic or other paint of your choice. just like dry brushing. marker tends to change the colour after some time. i had some level of success using just colour pencils. paper modeling is rather cheap, but to get to the result Doris or firdajan shows, it takes a loooong time... i have made a few hulls of hms Cleopatra from shipyard ( i think 4 in total) and three of them flew to the bin. the last one is done to such level i am happy with it. i had to put it aside as life got in a way, but am contemplating on the idea of resurrecting it. if you need more help or info, i am happy to help. firdajan might be willing too. on our papermodelers.sk forum, we have a thread where the basic tools and techniques are described. if there would be demand, i could try to translate.

Great work Chuck.  Can't wait to see it on Tuesday.

Thank you all for likes and kind words.   
 

Great work Chuck, and congratulations on finishing!
 
Someday I'll get back to mine.

HI Ca not sure if it's just me but can't see pictures on either desktop windows computer or smartphone was looking forward to seeing your progress 

Ditto ditto the comments above!

Very nice Mike. Wanna make a bunch more?

Very well done Mike.  Your workmanship is tidy and the finish looks good.
 

While working on the topsail yard, I noticed that I needed a few more belaying pins. These were made from 1/16" square boxwood strips and the Dremel rotary tool. Using a 1/16" collet, the bottom end of the pin was reduced to .032" (1 1/2" scale). After cutting the handle of the pin to the correct length, the bottom end was inserted into a 1/32" collet and the pin was reduced to .045 (2 5/32" scale) From here the handle was easily shaped, and the bottom was trimmed off. Final length = 18" scale. 

 

 

 
The topsail yard is completed and all lines are belayed. I still need to trim the lines and add the remaining rope coils.