Ryland Craze

Days work done. Assembled the stern beams including all the vertical and horizontal knees. Although will not really be seen, the picture of the gun deck looks great from deck level with the knees in place.

 
Not sure how they would turn the capstan on this deck without removing the posts.

Here is the first Indy deck set off the laser machine.
 
I will only have a few until I restock my wood sheets in September, as most of my last batch went on re stocking all kit decks..
 
HMS Indefatigable Engraved Deck Set – VANGUARD MODELS

Steve
What John wrote is the best way to go in my opinion.  If your hull is a little out of shape compared to the plans this method will compensate for any variation.  I would cut two at the same time so one can be flipped over and be a mirror image rather than making two tracings.  If the variation of the hull itself starboard to port is slight, the cap will cover this up as they will be symmetrical.
Allan     

I make mine by laying a sheet of paper over the model and running a pencil around to draw the exact shape of the hull as a template, then cutting the right shape is straightforward.
 
John

A word of warning to all UK and continental viewers of today's Workshop.
For some reason, when I googled the time difference (as always) I got TWO answers.  Perhaps there is a glitch with Daylight Savings/Summertime changes but for whatever reason at least two sites advised that the UK time would be 3:30 PM while the rest correctly advised 4:30 PM. 
The final word on the subject of course was the ZOOM confirmation which says 4:30.
 
NRG VIRTUAL WORKSHOP - ON-LINE RESEARCH Date & Time Jul 15, 2023 04:30 PM London
 
 
BTW, I assume this problem is a glitch as I have never had contradictory answers in the past.
See you there!
 
Bruce

Cannon Weathering 

Just one more thought on the cannons. I mentioned this before but worth emphasizing for future owners of Syren’s resin cannons.  The combination of these with Ironworks Black paint, or any Matt Black I’d imagine, and Doc O’Briens Rusty Red weathering powder (why the Rusty Red works best I don’t know), and a set of soft, single purpose brushes creates such a nice gun metal gray barrel. Well worth the time and effort to do it and highly recommended.  

Thank you! The wheels aren’t as free of char as I’d like, my comment was I didn’t feel I could get them that way without over sanding, meaning too much reduction in diameter/size. I’m sure I’m just being over-picky.
 
I made the order to Crafty Sailor for the quoin handles (actually belaying pins) does that count.🤣

Glenn, they look great to me.  What do you mean about the wheels being over sanded?  When I read that, I was expecting to see rounded edges, but they look nice and square.  Also, did you make those perfect looking quoin handles?

Glenn on Cheerful I ganged 4 canonn wheels of like diameter on a screw of prpoer diameter. Placed a nut on screw end to secure them. I placed the wheels so that the "fatter" diameter of two wheels faced each other. Then I carefully but ever so lightly turned/sanded them on my lathe. The key is to keep the pairings together once removed. Worked fairly well.
Joe 

You are quite welcome.  Glad to help. 
 
To your comment about stepping the mast when needed, there's a note on the two-masted sketch describing how to store the mast and sails. Necessity is indeed the Mother of Invention.
 
I think Chappelle just collected the drawings and pulled them together for his books.  He then commented on the "whys and wherefores." I like going through this book as it shows variations that were done to meet specific tasks or unique needs based on locale.  
 
As you point out, adding a sail seems a good way to get your feet wet on scratch build aspects. Hence, why I plan to add a keel, rudder and sail to a 'kit build.'  A lot of these work boats included a sail to otherwise traditional row boats.  As you found, there's photos which documents such changes. 

Here are the scans.  The print on the original page appears smudged.  But you can use the scale on the page to get a decent approximation for the size of the sails.  
 
With one mast.  NOTE:  If you look at the position of the mast it appears to be in the second thwart.  Likely because the jib covers the first thwart and attaches at the bow.  So, it may be a genetic aberration?  Evolution has a way of changing things and no single example is the exact way things were always done. You are as likely to have done it correctly as the any other model. 

 
And the two-mast version.  Again, both of these examples have rudder and center board.
 

 
If you down load these and they have gotten resized, PM me an email address and I will send them to you.  I scanned them at 600 dpi to give as much detail as possible. 
 
Source for these are:  American Small Sailing Craft by Howard, L. Chapelle copyright 1951 by WW Norton and Company.  Pages 91 (top image) and 93. (bottom image).

Thanks everyone. Well, now I can say this project is really finished. Here she is in her new home.

I am really happy the way the case turned out. My full size woodworking skills leave a lot to be desired, but this project I tried to be a lot more precise.
 
One thing I did over the last few days was to remake the cradle. I had originally made it a few years ago using 3/16" walnut for the supports. In all the moving they suffered a few dings and breaks that looked terrible, so I took them off the base board and remade them in 1/4" walnut. I am much happier with the result.

That's it for this project. Thank you all who have followed along through the journey. I have certainly learned a lot and I much appreciate those of you who built this model before me so I could learn from your experiences. I also hope this build log will prove useful for those who build this model in the future. I would highly recommend the experience. Just make sure you have a big enough place to put it when finished.

Having more cents than sense, I purchased all the materials from Bob Hunt.  So far, so good.  Chapter 2 came in handy to guide me through what to do with bulkhead B and the Stem (preparing for Bowsprit tenon and installation).  I have been poring over the build logs here, and mine is underway as well.
Thanks for sound advice. 
Best
Der Alte

Gun Deck Planking – Completed
I have now returned from an amazing European holiday, as can be seen from the three photos I have included in the post. We were there during a red alert heatwave, which suited me as I love the sun.
 
The Eiger (Left hand side of photo with the summit in the clouds)
Strasbourg (Very scenic) 

Lucerne (A fantastic covered bridge)

As my back is now much improved, I have been able to spend a bit more time in the shipyard this week and I have finally completed the planking to the gun deck this afternoon. The gun deck planking will now need to be cleaned up. I plan to use a blade to scrape the gun deck planks. As there is some colour difference between the planks I have ordered some different water based wood stains so I experiment with some different colours (on scrap wood samples) to see if I can get a nice pale wood stain finish. If I am unable to find a suitable stain finish I will simply add a WOP finish to the planking which I know will look good.
 
Whilst I wait for the wood stains to arrive, I might turn my attention to painting and assembling the cannons so I check how they will look when placed in their locating slots. As each cannon locating slot was added during the planking process I did make sure the cannon tab would locate in each slot.
 
I have added a selection of photos of the completed planking.

As can be seen in the final photo I did manage to damage one of the bulkhead ears. The ear can be glued back in place without any difficultly.

 

On vacation, resume in about 2 weeks.  Up ahead is ship’s boats, anchors, rigging, and the case.
 
Hope your summer is relaxing where you are…..
 
 

Virginia vs. Cumberland, March 8, 1862. An hour well spent:
 
 

MK 1 has it as a 40mm Bofors quad.
 
For comparison, pictures of the aft platform for the "Landing Paddle Officer" as provided by Trumpeter and MK 1.  Trumpeter has "some" PE brass included, most of which is replaced by MK 1.
Last picture shows where I think the platform is mounted, based on a VERY imprecise diagram from Trumpeter.  Seems to me that this is a little restricted, though, because it's located beneath the longitudinal Flight deck supports.  I think a better place would have been on the end of the supports?  Anyone have a photo or plans of this area?

A-ha! I saw the planking pattern and assumed it was the one piece approach. Superb work on making your own Top & Butt planking, a very nice touch.

Post Fifty.
Time to add a coat of w-o-p.
I make my own up using spirit based Black friar clear satin Poly varnish diluted 50% using white spirit.
Applied sparingly with a soft cloth the first application will reveal those areas that may need more attention.
 Application of w-o-p darkens the pearwood, and brings out the richness, but of more importance the overall tone of the wood is uniform and consistent.

1419

1418

1416

1414

1420
The colour tone is close to what I had hoped for to contrast with the Boxwood and is not far off the patination I would aspire to achieve were I to copper the hull.
 
That’s a story for another time.
 
B.E.
14/07/2023
 

Cheers Guy's, thanks for looking in.
@ Ron - An especially good job on conforming the one-piece wale.
Unlike Sphinx, Chris opted not to provide  a laser etched wale, and indicated use of three 5mm strips for the purpose. 
On my 'Indy' the wales are made up of four strakes of Top and Butt planking which I felt  provided a more authentic look.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

There is not kit supplied equivilent. I did have a few laser etched decks when first released as an optional extra, but these were on custom sized wood and very expensive, and very costly in the end due to most of the sheets being unsuitable for purpose.
 
I do however buy large quanties of 1x150x1000mm limewood, which I use for all engraved decks now, so I thought I would again offer the Indy pre made decks, albeiit in more separate parts than before due to width limitations.

For those that may be interested, I have produced a new file for the Indy laser engraved limewood deck set. It will be on 4 separate 1x150x800mm limewood sheets, as seen on the drawing.  The decks have had to be split down the centre, due to width restrictions.
 
I should have three sets ready for early next week, and have a new batch of limewood arriving in September, so can do more if there is a call for them.
 
Speedy printed stuff arrived today, so that's all ready and in stock. (Even has a little binnacle now...)
 
But still waiting for my damn Trial Cutter PE......

I just wanted to give a thumbs up to OcCre for their great after sales service.
After 13 months I am getting to the mast stage on my Revenge and realised that I was short on several dowels.
I filled in their online parts form on 29th June and a poster tube with half a dozen dowels was delivered today at no cost to me.

Nice. The Oseberg is still the most beautiful of all the Viking ships discovered. Those carvings are amazing. At this scale they are basically impossible to duplicate perfectly, but (depending on your carving skills) the outlines provided on the kit can be improved upon quite a lot (it's called kit-bashing).
 

 
Nice to have you aboard. I was an early mediaeval re-enactor for many years (11th century Anglo-Saxon, took part in the Hastings re-enactments of 2000 AD and 2006). And I visited Bristol in 2009 and saw Brunel's beautiful Great Britain and the reconstruction of Cabot's Matthew. Fond memories.
 
BTW, I've put quite a bit of study into Viking ships, so if you have any questions, I may be able to help.
 
Steven