Ryland Craze

OK, designs for the Baltimore privateer Grecian have been completed, and here are some pics of the 'quick and dirty' build I do, to check final designs. I do mean quick, as this time last week, it wasn't even planked! With that in mind, please note that I have literally threw the bits together on this without too much clean up. All this is for is to check all laser cut designs, to make sure all fit as they should - and if they don't, they are removed, a new part cut and re applied.
 
I have included a lot more ordnance than she ever carried, but if I just included a couple of 4 pounders and a couple of x 6 pounders, I am sure that wouldn't go down so well. So what I have done and will include is a choice. There will be 12 x 18 pounder carronades, 8 x 6 pounder long guns and 4 x 4 pounders. I have gone with a mainly carronade armament, plus a pair of 6 and 4 pounder cannon - but the modeller can change this if they so wish.
 
I will also include a 3d printed 20 foot cutter hull and the laser cut floors, thwarts and oars to go with it.
 
I have included a couple of pics showing its size in relation to Sphinx and Speedy - the latter looks very tubby when sat next to the very sleek schooner!

Another  change of plan  (who said  Waterloo research was easy lol)   anyway  one of my  2nd  Life Guards  is  going to be changed for a Kings Dragoon Guard  same body  slightly different  colour  details   but  his  head will  need  changing  as  he  wears  a different  helmet  -  higher peak  and  some hair  detail.
So  here  we  have a  comparison between  the 2nd Life Guards (First  plate)   and  the  Kings Dragoon Guards
 
OC.

They're not hard to find if you Google "Russian brig Mercury." Her captain's actions lend credence to the adage about fortune favoring the bold.

Hello Michael, and a warm welcome to the forum from 'Down Under'.
 
John

Perhaps I can locate an account of the ships harrowing battle. That would give some flavor to the work. The low amount of available build logs would give all the more encouragement to take time and look to the community for personal development… one day I hope to rise to middling 😂 Thanks! Looking forward to this. 

Welcome Michael from another Jersey guy.
Richard

Welcome, Mike!

Hi Mike, welcome aboard! 👍😀

Welcome to MSW, Michael.   Have a look in this area:  General Ship Model Kit Discussions - NOT build logs
 

I am new-ish and a big hello from New Jersey! 
 
I am new to ship modeling and certainly grateful to have found this hobby and all the amazing people! 
 
I posted my first attempt and I am currently trying to decide on an intermediate+ level kit to begin my next adventure, this time documented as it unfolds. Going for a kit for the ease of starting but I’m sure much will be scratch/upgraded. Liked the Amati kit I just completed and am leaning in the direction of victory models, Mercury 20 gun brig. There seems to be little or no content on that kit in any venue. 

 
Before continuing I should ask…is there an accepted or appropriate place to discuss manufacturers and individual kits? I would love to hear some opinion before starting a new commitment. 

good evening and thanks for having me,
michael
 

First planking done 😀

i certainly would, actually this was a novice kit, i did it to practice my planking, it was however meant to last me two months before completion and not the four weeks, loved it
VANGUARD MODEL KITS – VANGUARD MODELS

I've known for sometime that the strake above the garboard should not creep to far up the bow. OK fine. I also knew that it has to follow the curve of the garboard and fit into the rabbet. OK fine. I also see where guys install the garboard in one of two ways. With the bow curve facing up (1) and the bow curve facing down(2). I did up (3) and had bow curve really bad as someone in my log commented though I didn't see it. 
 
I decided to flip the garboard on this rebuild. OK fine. To get the curve I needed for the strake above the garboard some severe edge bending was in order.  I read this: 

"By now you will realise that virtually all
the planking will need to be cut to shape,
as you cannot edge set a plank. Edge setting
means bending the plank sideways across
its width. If you try to do this, one edge of
the plank will lift off the frame and be im-
possible to attach. 
 
Well ya can't edge set without edge bending, eh ? Or can ya? I don't know. Maybe it means two completely different things.
Which meant I needed to cut a strake from a flat sheet already spiled. To get the spile I needed to edge bend a strake that followed the curve of the garboard. OK I tried that with heat (iron) too extreme a curve it broke. I wasn't going to toss that strake though. I just soaked it down, got my curve, clamped it down and ironed. I did all that close to the center of a 14 inch strip. All I needed was the curve. I traced the curve onto my sheet and there it sits until tomorrow when I will "laser" cut it out. That's a joke. I will use a X-acto and sandpaper.
The strake I edge bent to measure spile angle I fit to the frame. I needed to know...how I gonna do this, before I do it?  Well it turned into a good day. Not because it is exact but because my procedure worked for me. Can I reproduce it...That is the next question. 
I had long since lined off the hull. Last night I ran thread along the tics. What I saw today while fitting my second strake was that the lining off pretty much matches the curve on the strake. Seeing is believing.

I have read and heard, paraphrased...just get those two bottom and two top strakes on best ya can and tic from there.....
I'm thinking after I get the two garboard and two sheer strakes attached a re-tic is in order. I didn't know if I should tic 
into the rabbet or stop before it. I think into it but doing a re-tic will dump that problem and give me more practice. I'm looking forward to my next sessions on this brain breaking ball buster

017 - Deck Items Fitting Completed
I have been back in the shipyard today after two days away from home looking after one our grandkids.
 
All the deck items have now been fitted and I am now ready to start manufacturing the masts, boom, gaff and bowsprit. I really like the build when I reach this stage as it is the completion of a major milestone. Unlike the Saucy Jack and Erycina builds I have decided not to add the sails to Nisha. I have attached a selection of photo's showing the current build status.

 

I would love an IWATA after having their pro HVLP gun for another of my $$ hobbies but doubt I could justify the cost. A Badger looked good but so did the Paashe TG3-AS which I ultimately purchased a couple weeks ago. MSRP is $209 but it's available many places for $100-$125. I haven't used it, just admired the build since it really needs an initial cleaning and a test run first. Everything about this tool says Made in the USA, not Made in the USA and assembled of worldwide sourced parts like so many items these days. There are a couple You Tube videos about this air brush that are interesting.

I’m an Iwata user generally, but when I needed to spray 2 pack etch primer it was a Badger airbrush that got me sorted. They had a 0.8mm nozzle airbrush and it performed perfectly where nothing I had came close.
Like others have said, to a great extent choice will be dependent on what you want to achieve.
Thank you.
Paul.
 

I am attaching a link to Badger's website.  Click on it and then download their ULTIMATE AIRBRUSH 101.  It is a great guide to almost everything one needs to get started in airbrushing.  On Page 5 of 13 the part about how to pick an airbrush starts.  This tells you the brush or brushes they recommend for doing particular jobs.  There is no one best airbrush for every job, but there is one best brush for a specific job.  The trick is deciding what's most important for your particular job.  And there are great brushes from all of the name brands.
Badger Website CLICK HERE  

I'm probably not the best person to ask. I rely on others' opinions and recommendations (my daughter in particular) but I'm not an expert.
The basic features - gravity feed (top or side feed) or siphon, single vs. dual action - these are things I'm afraid you'll have to decide for yourself.
There are plenty of tutorial and review videos available on the Internet.
 
I do think brand is important. I happen to really like Harder and Steenbeck, a German company. kurtvd19 is associated with a very reputable company (Badger, an American company) - I would ask him as well, he's much more experienced than I.
 
For what it's worth, I use a Harder and Steenbeck Infinity CRplus Two in One with 0.2 and 0.4 mm needles. It is a gravity feed style.

I try and buy good brand name tools for my shop and the models I make, I ordered a battery Dremel tool, I got it the other day and was using it and the battery fell out of the handle !.  I put it back in and it fell out, the tabs that hold the battery in place are to weak to hold it in place, Amazon will take it back and give me a refund. Just to show, there is NO QUALITY CONTROLL in china for any product. As they say garbage in , garbage out . Now if you want a real scare. Cadillac 4 and 6 cylinder drive trains are made in China,  Wow Im going out and spent 65K$ on chinese carp . If you want to buy auto parts from E bay,,,, 98% of everything on sale is from China . I have no farther comment on that.

all installed in her new home  

thanks  allan , it is in a display case now , i had to have one made from acrylic ,(because of the size ) by a local company,  thanks 

John, good to hear from you and thank you for posting regarding this model. IMHO the Harry was the crown jewel of this decorative style model made in Germany made in the 20/30's and no one knows the Harry better than yourself. Not to wish any ill will between you and your wife but I'm hoping Howard takes you up on your offer. 
 
 Keith

Next goal was to mask of for painting, and paint. Then it was assembly top mast and do some rigging then fit etch ladders. Next stage is to fit more etch and more rigging and start working on the jib, but feeling when I get this mast fitted onto model I will have turned the last big corner. 🤞Take some photos and post, next time the mast shall be on ship and rigged. 😊 Then I’ll be a happy bunny. 🤛