Ryland Craze

By the way, over the holidays, I created two Youtube video slide shows.
 
These are two scratch builds, the Hozugawa Ayubune and the Himi Tenmasen. Both small boats in 1/10 scale. These are based on projects by boatbuilder Douglas Brooks, and in many ways, they are tributes to him and his teachers.
 
The Hozugawa Ayubune is a small river fishing boat used on the Hozu river, northwest of Kyoto. The Himi Tenmasen is a general purpose coastal workboat from Toyama prefecture on the Japan Sea coast.
 
Hozugawa Ayubune: https://youtu.be/N16kF7O_VIY
 
 
Himi Tenmasen: https://youtu.be/bCLl2Xb-V0o
 
 
If you enjoy them, please give them a like!
 
In the meantime, I also was asked about putting together all the wasen models, or traditional Japanese boat models, that I've completed. A couple that you may be aware of aren't on here yet, as they aren't technically complete. But, if you want to see everying in one shot, you can find them here: https://wasenmodeler.com/wasen-mokei/
 
 

When I saw this ad I was a bit shocked 
Found on a Dutch website (translated to English) 
Building the Soleil Royal of Mantua should be easy. All you need is glue and a hobby knife ...
To all beginners: this is really not true 
 

Closing in on the finish line for the dead flat.
 



 
So treenails, using a Bynres draw plate I was able to get a bamboo BBQ skewer down to a 0.018". This took me a little while to figure out. After several failed attempts I built a jig (see here) to slice down the skewer to small sections to get through the largest hole (remember to pull through the flat side - found that out after an attempt or two). Then pulling several times (at different angles) through each hole I slowly stepped through the plate down to 0.018". Then I made a few treenails to see what it looked like in a test piece (old scrap version).

This picture is right after I applied some WOP and the side on the right lightened up after drying (but showed the difference in grain for each piece). The left side is the better side (the right was my first attempt and had too much glue). My question is what is an appropriate spacing or placement for the treenails? How close to the top of the piece should they be? or how close the side? I'll look through some other builds so see if I can find some good pictures, but they can be a little hard to see. Thanks for any advice!
 

Quarter Galleries & Completing Framing
 
Moving on to the quarter gallery and finishing up framing work.
 

 
It’s great to have the templates Chuck provides as part of the plans. A skilled person (not me) could probably build the whole model with nothing more than the plans. I make good use of them checking, comparing and using measurements transferred to the model as I build it. I make enough mistakes without guessing at stuff, though I probably get carried away with it.
 

 
Although pretty straightforward the gallery framing still has multiple angles to content with, once more the Byrnes sander does its thing, between the tilting table and mitre gauge I get what I need. I cut close to length required and let the sander do the rest (well, after I sort out what angles are required, there may have been some wasted wood involved.
 

 
Belt and suspenders I suppose, still its nice to have a little affirmation using this cut-out of the template (measured against the bottom of the frames, my wood is thicker) to confirm it’s all the right fit. Chuck makes a point of not changing the angle of the transom in the process of this framing, my cut-out confirms I haven’t.
 

 

 
After fairing it starts to look like the stern of a great ship (I squared up that port after seeing the photo).
 

 
 

 
I’ll admit I got a little lost in sorting our fairing the stern, thanks Chuck for talking me off the cliff. I looked at a lot of logs and for the most part they all seemed a little different, then it dawned on me, they’re all a little different. I think I’m pretty close now and unlike I sometimes do, I managed to stop sanding before I sanded too much, maybe. You can see the pencil marks I applied from marking the dotted lines from the stern frames template. Not an exact fit to the printed counter decoration, but reasonably close. I can adjust more if needed when I install the counter in chapter 2. Time to move on.
 

 
Thanks to Chuck (as always) for the good timing for me on the Chapter 10 forecastle cap rail templates. I was able to confirm my bow is the close to the right curve. I do this a lot, I buy chapter parts ahead of when I need them so I can look ahead to confirm something I’m doing now will be the right fit for something added later. More of that positive affirmation stuff .
 

 

 
Added the hance pieces and the strip along the quarter deck and the fairing across the top of the frames required to do so. The sheer now stands out.
 

 

 
Then it was time for one of those hold your breath moments, using the Dremel to bring the bow area down to 5/32 in preparation for the bollard timbers and not blow up the bow in the process. I got close as I dared with the Dremel then finished it up with my chisels, files, and sanding tools. Now if I can carve the timbers right before I run out of blanks I can finish chapter 1.
 

 
Ever closer to looking like a ship. Thanks for stopping by, your likes and comments are always appreciated.
 

By far the best rendition of this model I have seen!

Thanks Chuck
The first chapter is more or less finished.
So here's the important part: Preparing for planking
What do you think ?
 
Dusan
 

The Bollard Timbers...
 

 

Thank you Chuck and for the likes as well.
with Stern frames I'll show you,
Planking the Lower Counter…
 
Dusan
 

 

Hi Dave,
Hard to tell from the pictures but it appears your fairing of the bulkheads may need a little more work. When I'm fairing, I use a string and run it from bow to stern. The string should lay flat on every bulkhead or frame. If it doesn't, more sanding is required. Also, if it doesn't touch a frame, you may need to reduce the amount on the frames on either side or or add a small strip to the offending frame and re-sand it.
You mention the "twist" at the bow and stern. As you've already found, there are a million different methods to deal with it. Chuck P.'s method is a really good one to use but whatever method you choose, stick with it!
I soak my pieces prior to heating and bending/twisting, I find it easier for me.
One more suggestion... I know you're "going for it" on the Lady Nelson. However, NRG sell a great teaching tool (and a fine model) for planking. It's called the "Half-hull project". I highly recommend it!
It made my life so much easier when planking! It's inexpensive and can be assembled in a few weeks, depending on how much you work per day!
I've attached a picture of mine! It also, gives you a small taste of scratch building. Some of the principles are hard to apply to kit materials since they are pre-cut but I think it will help you develop your own method.
Good luck!

To his point☝🏻 you’d benefit from better fairing,especially the first bulkhead at the bow and you could add some balsa filler there as well 
 
Like we’re all saying: the challenge of fixing things that went wrong is half the fun. 

Dave - have you seen my Alert build? Specifically this post:
 
 
My planking was a mess, so I ripped it off and re-faired (if you need to add material you can its wood and fair again). I don't think you are that far away and as someone who was there before I got very disheartened, thought I'd never complete the kit (all the woe is my things I could think), etc. Everyone here helped me through and I know you can get there as well.

Dave, please don't do that. I know it's frustrating but you've got to get over this hump successfully. Redoing is part and parcel in modeling, hitting a home run first time out is the exception, not the rule. Take a day or two to think about it, work it out in your mind. Think how you would remove the planks and what it would take to make laying the planks right. The first build takes a lot of practice, if you don't do the required practice on this kit, you'll be doing it on the next. You CAN do this, I've got faith in you! 

Dave,  Are those two planks glued in place or just temporarily in place until you finish shaping them properly so they don't ride up as they appear in the photo. You need to hot edge bend these per the method here   (There are several videos)  or spile as explained
  here https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/APrimerOnPlanking.pdf

Work continues on the WYOMING kit.  I finalized the shape of the laser-cut garboard planks today, soaked them, and clamped them in place to dry.  Will start planking tomorrow.  Here are a couple more of the 11 x 17 plan sheets for the plans booklet.

Thank you Bob, Glenn and Mike for your kind comments and thank you to all the 'Likes'.
 
I finished the assembly of the electric  Evans Designs leds. I will then be able to prepare and glue the false deck of the ship.

 
A small test once the assembly is completed. It works 😃. A big thank you to scrubbyj427 who made me discover these great little leds from Evan Designs in his beautiful build log of the Winchelsea frigate.
 

 
The last details have been added: the open door between the 2 rooms and the small ladder that gives access to the door to the bread room.

 
Next step: installation of the false deck.
 

I just ordered a 22' boat from Vanguard for my HMS Camilla build. $36 USD inc. shipping (standard post from the U.K.)
This will now replace the previous resin hull one from Caldercraft I was planning on using (I showed this one as a temporary placeholder on my HMS Sphinx Build Log). 
I won't be needing it for a few weeks, but I'll wager that Chris will get it shipped out before I hit the submit reply button here...😆
 
I anticipate this added clinker hull boat - once pimped-out so it looks like wood - will be the cherry on top once I'm done with rigging and sails.
Ron
 

This is an impressive level of service! Thank you, Chris, for responding so quickly and positively. I will be ordering tomorrow. 
 
George

Richard,
You might ask that question here:   https://modelshipworld.com/forum/13-discussions-for-ships-plans-and-project-research-general-research-on-specific-vessels-and-ship-types/
 
That area is questions like yours.

Hello; I hope this finds all well & Happy New Year.
 I have a 93 year old friend who has been and still is an avid wooden model ship builder his entire life after serving in the US Navy during WWII as a carpenter. His job was to board up all buildings on the Pacific islands that we used during the war. He is also now blind in one eye and still doing remarkable work.
He wants to build the Queen Anne’s Revenge but I cannot find the plans. Would you know where a set of plans can be bought?
 I appreciate the craftsmanship and work of folks like you and my friend and thank you for doing these magnificent model ships.
Take care,
Richard Schindler

I got to the point of building the gun ports and realized I'd have to start over from scratch; too many early mistakes. So, I threw it out and started over (after scavenging the keel). I'm now almost as far along on the second build as I was with the first attempt. I built a sanding jig and, by cracky, I didn't break a single bulkhead when sanding.

Over the past few days I have been able to hang the rudder and make the stand. Making the mast is next. Instructions say to try making it twice, once form dowel and  also by planing a square piece of basswood to compare techniques. Will see how it goes....
 

 

Since my last posting, I’ve had my first of two eye surgeries, actually on my lower eye lid. Once the outpatient procedure was done, I looked like I had a bout with Mike Tyson. I had quite the shiner on my right eye. My eye is still blood shot, but the swelling has gone down a bunch. Needless to say, it has added another in a long list of excuses why I haven’t made much progress this past week. I did try though. In preparation for the trim work for the quarter galleries, I needed to make some more trim from stock. That meant setting up the Dremel drill to make more scrapers. All I managed to do was break two grinding discs before I even turn on the tool. Realizing I could not see well enough yet to make the trim, I did managed to paint the transom black which had to be done anyways.

Starboard side of cockpit floor installed. And this was the interesting part for me. You will see that I used some twine and clothes pins to create a makeshift clamp. I elected to cinch the bulkheads to create a tighter marriage between the cockpit floor and the bulkhead. I did this at the risk of possibly creating a ripple effect down the line if I pulled the bulkhead out of alignment for another piece, but time will tell and I will learn.