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hornet

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Everything posted by hornet

  1. Another fan of birchwood casey brass black. It is available on eBay by the way. I have had a couple of failures with it but I suspect that the brass content was not high enough to get a good chemical reaction going in those cases. If blackening is unsuccessful, might I suggest using admiralty acrylic paint - matt (metal) black. I have had excellent results with this paint. It looks just as good as genuine blackening. .
  2. Vague Shihawk!! I would have paid extra for vague!!! Corel's instructions of that era, I don't know if they have improved any but I won't be buying another Corel kit anytime soon to find out, were almost totally indecipherable!!!!! Luckily the Internet came along in the latter years of my build. I actually put together a large scrapbook of photos ofthe Victory. Luckily she is one of the most photographed/ recognisable ships in the world!! Don't forget to do the same Rivdvm. There is a lot of good stuff on the net which will really help your build
  3. I built this kit over a period of years fom the mid 1980s and finished it in the early 2000's. You are correct the SM 23 instruction booklet is laughable. However, the actual plans are not so bad. My suggestion is to bin the instruction booklet, bite the bullet and get started. Don't feel intimidated, just fire up a build log. There are lots of folks who have built this monster, they will provide you with all the help you may need. The MOST important thing to remember is that there is no such thing as a stupid question! We have all been there!!!! I LOOK BACK AT MY Victory and shudder at the mistakes I made. I am still proud to have finally finished her but would have given my eye teeth for access to a site like this when I was struggling with the complexities of the rigging ( among other things!!!) Purchased 1985 - completed 2006!!! NOT my best build but very glad to finally finish her!!! If only I had access To MSW then!!!!!
  4. Hi Vossy I bought a Sparmax AC 500sr (see link below) about 12 months ago and I am very happy with it. It is very portable, has a tank which means the compressor doesn't cut in very often - and even when it does it is very quiet. I teamed it up with a sparmax DH 103 dual action airbrush (about $100). I also bought a mini spray booth from ebay for around $100. I posted some pics of the spraybooth setup on another thread a while ago. Check it out if you are interested. Airbrushing is fun once you get the hang of it and you get some very smooth/even results that look great! Best of luck with your search. https://www.frontlinehobbies.com.au/products/SPTC610H http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7362-airbrush-recommendation-for-newbie-sprayer/
  5. Lets just say that if Aus was the Titanic, he'd be captain!!
  6. Can't help you with paint selection SneakyJay, but your avatar scares the hell out of me!!!!!!!
  7. I have used a filler called plastibond (2 part) I was successfully able to mix a stain (Feast Watson) into the filler before applying it. The results were quite good.
  8. I use a 50/50 mix of clear windex and demineralised water when painting with acrylics. Works well for me. I also store unused mixed up paint in labelled syringes which I stopper with a nail. I can suck as little as 1/2 ml of unused paint from an airbrush. Sometimes this is all I need for a small job. Waste not want not!!
  9. I am currently building the Caldercraft Supply. Fittings and instructions are good. I am a little disappointed with the quality of the wood, much of which is brittle and splintery. They have provided ample quantities though so breakage has not been a problem. There are three companies producing the 'Supply' as far as I know. Caldercraft, Artesania Latina and modeller's shipyard. All three versions look different. Through my research, I have made many modifications to this kit to make it more authentic. I also have the Caldercraft 'Bounty' and Caldercraft 'Endeavour' on the shelf. Wood quality in these kits seems to be similar. I also had some 'issues' with missing components as have others. These are discussed in a thread called Caldercraft Customer Service' if you are interested. Overall though, I am quite happy with this kit.
  10. Captain Steve, I posted a method of coiling ropes using transparent plastic `counters' (used in schools and available on ebay) on another thread a while back. Thought you may be interested http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1310-making-rope-coils/?hl=%2Bmaking+%2Brope+%2Bcoils
  11. Hi Duncan, just one of your pesky hijackers returning! Have you finished Mary Byrne? If so I would love to see a couple of pics of your efforts. Good luck with HMB Endeavour. I have the Caldercraft version but will finish the Caldercraft Supply and then the Caldercraft Bounty before she gets 'on the bench'. I have a couple of hundred hi res that I took of the Endeavour Replica a while back. If you would like a copy, PM me. Steve
  12. Will definitely make the ball look bigger Vossey, but I suggest you also get a bat like Davey Warner's........ KaBoom!!!!!!
  13. I've found that I can successfully PVA glue items to a deck that has been sprayed with polyurethane as long as it has a fairly large footprint eg cargo hatches, companionways. For items with smaller footprints such as deck pintails and bowsprit bitts and cannon, I always pin them down with 1mm brass wire or tubing as well. Unless it is going to be hung upside down from the ceiling items will remain in place. I've got models that are 30 years old that have been done this way. When I turn them upside down and shake 'em nothing falls off except dust, and maybe a pi**ed off spider!!
  14. If you decide on a Proxxon, I would also recommend getting the three jaw self-centering chuck as well. In addition Proxxon has put a clip of this lathe - the DB 250 onto YouTube.
  15. Don't know much about the jigsaw, but the lathe has been around a long time. I considered it, very briefly, when I was in the market for a lathe. From my research I concluded that the fact that it was only a 12 volt motor meant that it did not have sufficient 'grunt' to be of much use. It was described as 'chicken powered' in one review that I read. I settled on the proxxon lathe which comes with full mains power (240 volt) in my case - Australia, is well built, has a small footprint and comes with many quality accessories. I have had it for about 2 years and I am very happy with it. When you add the cost of the transformer to the Mantua lathe, it comes out at a similar price to the Proxxon.
  16. I have used mine a lot with my TMB 220 drill stand. I found it works well as long as adjusted and fitted correctly. Agree with Mike though, the adjustment wheels are a bit fiddly. I find that I have more problems, accuracy wise, with drill bits flexing than any play in the table itself.
  17. Miniature Steam in Melbourne sells Admiralty Acrylic Paints. These paints are in authentic Royal Navy colours and are, in my opinion, very good quality. They can be purchased online. Simply 'google' Miniature Steam and follow the links.
  18. Keith, yes Bunnings has stopped selling Wattyl products. However, you can still get Wattyl matt, satin and gloss in spray cans from Home Hardware. I assume that you have them down your way a well. I like the Wattyl product and was most unimpressed when Bunnings stopped stocking it.
  19. Agree with KeithW. I bought a range of these little sample bottles. They are good value for we model builders as they will go a loooong way when used on small modelling jobs. They are easily thinned. I mixed and experimented with them till I got the colour I wanted then stored the left over 'mixed' stain in syringes for later use. The syringes I 'stoppered' with nails which I cut down and ground to a point.
  20. Could they possibly have meant sanding sealer - such as Feast Watson - available at Bunnings. I have recently finished the deck planking of my latest build. I simply used a few coats (sanded in between each) of satin polyurethane (estapol) mixed 50/50 low odour turps and applied with an airbrush. Works for me!
  21. All of the above are excellent reasons for using the recommended double layer of planking on your first (and maybe even more builds after that!!) Hull planking is a skill that, in my opinion, takes a lot of practise to perfect. I sometimes wonder how many half planked HMS Victory's are out there in hobby land because a beginner became frustrated and lost interest. I am still learning tricks when planking even after 10 builds!!!! Although I have seen many excellent 'first attempts' on this forum, I think you should take very opportunity to practise. This means having a go at double planking. .
  22. John Just got home from chasing a little white ball around the course.... stupid game!!! Anyhow, I have scanned and added the relevant pages of the manual below. I'm sure it doesn't break copyright as these are available to download on the net. I think the section most relevant to your needs is titled `Adjusting the guide play' Click on pics to enlarge and read. Hope this gets you out of trouble Steve
  23. Hi Jhearl You can download the xy table manual from the net. Type Proxxon KT 70 compound table manual into your search engine. I found one but I can't get the link to work on this post. How to make adjustments is explained (briefly) in the manual. You will need a small allen key to adjust the screws. I have this table but can't remember if the allen key was included. I have several sets of them.
  24. My big problem is that I never return stuff and I DON'T KNOW WHERE IT IS!!!!! :(
  25. Wouldn't have a clue - The AP has a custom scale option, feed in your numbers and see if it works. I have found the AP meets all my needs, so far in modelling. I thought it might be useful for others who may not have heard of it or used it. Seems to cover all the common scales. If it doesn't seem useful to you don't download it.
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