hornet
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Everything posted by hornet
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I have used balsa as bow and stern fillers for my current build HMS Supply. I found that after fitting the blocks painting on several coats of a PVA wood glue/water mix (allowing it to dry between coats) made the balsa firmer and better to plank on to as the mix seemed to soak into the balsa. I have used basswood a number of times before for the same purpose. I think the balsa is almost as good as long as it is treated in this way and it is easier to shape. -
Brian. I ended up getting a Jasart 300 x 450mm self healing mat from Officeworks. Cost me $35. Seems sturdy enough. Link below http://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/SearchDisplay?searchTerm=cutting+mat&storeId=10151&langId=-1&pageSize=24&beginIndex=0&sType=SimpleSearch&resultCatEntryType=2&showResultsPage=true&searchSource=Q&pageView=
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Thanks folks, I am convinced. Heading down to the hobby store to get one now!!!
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DOUBLE E DED APPLICATORS While wandering aimlessly around a $2 shop - following my admiral - (something I do superbly!!) I came across these `double ended applicators.' They are apparently used for applying eye makeup. They work really well for removing excess glue and, being spongy, they can easily be rinsed and reused. The only downside with them was that I got some very strange looks from the checkout girl when I bought 10 packs
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I have never owned a commercially made cutting board. I have always just used a piece of melamine on top of my workbench to work on. I have recently been reading about 'self healing' cutting boards but they seem to be used more for hobbies involving cutting material and cardboard rather than timber. They seem to range in price up to around $80 (depending on size). I am wondering if others use them, are they worth the money, are they durable and which brands are the best quality??? Or am I better off sticking with my melamine board??
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Blackening brass problem
hornet replied to Maury S's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I use the blackened because you can get different 'shades' according to how long or how many times you soak it. It is also quicker than painting which is an issue if you have a heap of cannons to do. You also don't have to wait for it to dry. -
Blackening brass problem
hornet replied to Maury S's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Another fan of birchwood casey brass black. It is available on eBay by the way. I have had a couple of failures with it but I suspect that the brass content was not high enough to get a good chemical reaction going in those cases. If blackening is unsuccessful, might I suggest using admiralty acrylic paint - matt (metal) black. I have had excellent results with this paint. It looks just as good as genuine blackening. . -
Vague Shihawk!! I would have paid extra for vague!!! Corel's instructions of that era, I don't know if they have improved any but I won't be buying another Corel kit anytime soon to find out, were almost totally indecipherable!!!!! Luckily the Internet came along in the latter years of my build. I actually put together a large scrapbook of photos ofthe Victory. Luckily she is one of the most photographed/ recognisable ships in the world!! Don't forget to do the same Rivdvm. There is a lot of good stuff on the net which will really help your build
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I built this kit over a period of years fom the mid 1980s and finished it in the early 2000's. You are correct the SM 23 instruction booklet is laughable. However, the actual plans are not so bad. My suggestion is to bin the instruction booklet, bite the bullet and get started. Don't feel intimidated, just fire up a build log. There are lots of folks who have built this monster, they will provide you with all the help you may need. The MOST important thing to remember is that there is no such thing as a stupid question! We have all been there!!!! I LOOK BACK AT MY Victory and shudder at the mistakes I made. I am still proud to have finally finished her but would have given my eye teeth for access to a site like this when I was struggling with the complexities of the rigging ( among other things!!!) Purchased 1985 - completed 2006!!! NOT my best build but very glad to finally finish her!!! If only I had access To MSW then!!!!!
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Tips and Tricks for Airbrushing
hornet replied to JPett's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Hi Vossy I bought a Sparmax AC 500sr (see link below) about 12 months ago and I am very happy with it. It is very portable, has a tank which means the compressor doesn't cut in very often - and even when it does it is very quiet. I teamed it up with a sparmax DH 103 dual action airbrush (about $100). I also bought a mini spray booth from ebay for around $100. I posted some pics of the spraybooth setup on another thread a while ago. Check it out if you are interested. Airbrushing is fun once you get the hang of it and you get some very smooth/even results that look great! Best of luck with your search. https://www.frontlinehobbies.com.au/products/SPTC610H http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7362-airbrush-recommendation-for-newbie-sprayer/ -
Lets just say that if Aus was the Titanic, he'd be captain!!
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Can't help you with paint selection SneakyJay, but your avatar scares the hell out of me!!!!!!!
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Making filler harder
hornet replied to jdiven's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I have used a filler called plastibond (2 part) I was successfully able to mix a stain (Feast Watson) into the filler before applying it. The results were quite good. -
Tips and Tricks for Airbrushing
hornet replied to JPett's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I use a 50/50 mix of clear windex and demineralised water when painting with acrylics. Works well for me. I also store unused mixed up paint in labelled syringes which I stopper with a nail. I can suck as little as 1/2 ml of unused paint from an airbrush. Sometimes this is all I need for a small job. Waste not want not!!- 39 replies
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Anybody built these kits - moved by moderator
hornet replied to latestarter's topic in Wood ship model kits
I am currently building the Caldercraft Supply. Fittings and instructions are good. I am a little disappointed with the quality of the wood, much of which is brittle and splintery. They have provided ample quantities though so breakage has not been a problem. There are three companies producing the 'Supply' as far as I know. Caldercraft, Artesania Latina and modeller's shipyard. All three versions look different. Through my research, I have made many modifications to this kit to make it more authentic. I also have the Caldercraft 'Bounty' and Caldercraft 'Endeavour' on the shelf. Wood quality in these kits seems to be similar. I also had some 'issues' with missing components as have others. These are discussed in a thread called Caldercraft Customer Service' if you are interested. Overall though, I am quite happy with this kit. -
Captain Steve, I posted a method of coiling ropes using transparent plastic `counters' (used in schools and available on ebay) on another thread a while back. Thought you may be interested http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1310-making-rope-coils/?hl=%2Bmaking+%2Brope+%2Bcoils
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Hi Duncan, just one of your pesky hijackers returning! Have you finished Mary Byrne? If so I would love to see a couple of pics of your efforts. Good luck with HMB Endeavour. I have the Caldercraft version but will finish the Caldercraft Supply and then the Caldercraft Bounty before she gets 'on the bench'. I have a couple of hundred hi res that I took of the Endeavour Replica a while back. If you would like a copy, PM me. Steve
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Has anyone got or used headband magnifiers?
hornet replied to vossy's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Will definitely make the ball look bigger Vossey, but I suggest you also get a bat like Davey Warner's........ KaBoom!!!!!! -
I've found that I can successfully PVA glue items to a deck that has been sprayed with polyurethane as long as it has a fairly large footprint eg cargo hatches, companionways. For items with smaller footprints such as deck pintails and bowsprit bitts and cannon, I always pin them down with 1mm brass wire or tubing as well. Unless it is going to be hung upside down from the ceiling items will remain in place. I've got models that are 30 years old that have been done this way. When I turn them upside down and shake 'em nothing falls off except dust, and maybe a pi**ed off spider!!
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If you decide on a Proxxon, I would also recommend getting the three jaw self-centering chuck as well. In addition Proxxon has put a clip of this lathe - the DB 250 onto YouTube.
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Don't know much about the jigsaw, but the lathe has been around a long time. I considered it, very briefly, when I was in the market for a lathe. From my research I concluded that the fact that it was only a 12 volt motor meant that it did not have sufficient 'grunt' to be of much use. It was described as 'chicken powered' in one review that I read. I settled on the proxxon lathe which comes with full mains power (240 volt) in my case - Australia, is well built, has a small footprint and comes with many quality accessories. I have had it for about 2 years and I am very happy with it. When you add the cost of the transformer to the Mantua lathe, it comes out at a similar price to the Proxxon.
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Proxxon compound table -- Opinions?
hornet replied to rtropp's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have used mine a lot with my TMB 220 drill stand. I found it works well as long as adjusted and fitted correctly. Agree with Mike though, the adjustment wheels are a bit fiddly. I find that I have more problems, accuracy wise, with drill bits flexing than any play in the table itself. -
Miniature Steam in Melbourne sells Admiralty Acrylic Paints. These paints are in authentic Royal Navy colours and are, in my opinion, very good quality. They can be purchased online. Simply 'google' Miniature Steam and follow the links.
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Keith, yes Bunnings has stopped selling Wattyl products. However, you can still get Wattyl matt, satin and gloss in spray cans from Home Hardware. I assume that you have them down your way a well. I like the Wattyl product and was most unimpressed when Bunnings stopped stocking it.
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Agree with KeithW. I bought a range of these little sample bottles. They are good value for we model builders as they will go a loooong way when used on small modelling jobs. They are easily thinned. I mixed and experimented with them till I got the colour I wanted then stored the left over 'mixed' stain in syringes for later use. The syringes I 'stoppered' with nails which I cut down and ground to a point.
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