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Could they possibly have meant sanding sealer - such as Feast Watson - available at Bunnings. I have recently finished the deck planking of my latest build. I simply used a few coats (sanded in between each) of satin polyurethane (estapol) mixed 50/50 low odour turps and applied with an airbrush. Works for me!

All of the above are excellent reasons for using the recommended double layer of planking on your first (and maybe even more builds after that!!) Hull planking is a skill that, in my opinion, takes a lot of practise to perfect. I sometimes wonder how many half planked HMS Victory's are out there in hobby land because a beginner became frustrated and lost interest. I am still learning tricks when planking even after 10 builds!!!! Although I have seen many excellent 'first attempts' on this forum, I think you should take very opportunity to practise. This means having a go at double planking. .

John Just got home from chasing a little white ball around the course.... stupid game!!! Anyhow, I have scanned and added the relevant pages of the manual below. I'm sure it doesn't break copyright as these are available to download on the net. I think the section most relevant to your needs is titled `Adjusting the guide play' Click on pics to enlarge and read. Hope this gets you out of trouble Steve

Hi Jhearl You can download the xy table manual from the net. Type Proxxon KT 70 compound table manual into your search engine. I found one but I can't get the link to work on this post. How to make adjustments is explained (briefly) in the manual. You will need a small allen key to adjust the screws. I have this table but can't remember if the allen key was included. I have several sets of them.

My big problem is that I never return stuff and I DON'T KNOW WHERE IT IS!!!!! :(

Wouldn't have a clue - The AP has a custom scale option, feed in your numbers and see if it works. I have found the AP meets all my needs, so far in modelling. I thought it might be useful for others who may not have heard of it or used it. Seems to cover all the common scales. If it doesn't seem useful to you don't download it.

Looks too complicated or this little black duck! I just use the Woodland Scenic Model Scaler AP. It is available on windows, iOS, Android and kindle for free!!! http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/page/modelscaler

I'll add a couple more examples from the Endeavour Replica. Made from canvas I think.

I have a canon 50D and take my model ship pics with a canon EFS 17 - 85mm lens. It is a great camera and takes very good pics. My son recently bought a compact DSLR with interchangeable lenses. I think if I had my time over I would investigate this format further. These cameras have the ability - and therefore flexibility - to change lenses like the standard size DSLR but are much smaller and lighter to carry around. Because taking photos of model ships is not ( I assume) the only thing that you will use this camera for, they are worth considering. The only drawback with them - in my opinion - is they don't have a viewfinder (I'm old school and like to have one!) and they are quite expensive when compared to a 'fixed lens' compact camera.

Thanks Shipaholic - They are

I am currently working on the Caldercraft Brig HMS Supply. I am starting to think about rigging and am not too pleased with the rigging plan supplied with the kit. It seems to have been `dumbed down' - maybe for beginners. Anyhow, I was thinking of using the plan from my model of the Brig 'Perseverance' as a guide - in conjunction with reference to Lennarth Peterssson's `Rigging Period Ship Models.' I know that rigging on all ships developed and changed over time but my concern/question is, would the rigging of the `Supply' in around 1788 have been much different than the `Perseverance' , in 1806. Any thoughts or input would be gratefully appreciated.

Great idea Matt, the Admiral has a salad bowl made out of the same stuff, maybe I could cut .......... On second thoughts maybe not

Zap a gap medium for applying copper plating. CA gel for other small jobs - I use one in a tube, it is cheaper than the dispenser type you have in your picture. However, I use it very sparingly as the fumes affect me if I forget to put on a mask. I mostly use a quick drying wood glue.

Excellent news!!!!!!! :)

I have used balsa as filler blocks. I found it worked better for pinning planks into if several coats of thinned wood glue were soaked into it and allowed to dry first. This made it a firmer base.

I've got the same one shown in your photo. In my opinion the base - which is just plastic - is too light. It works OK but if I had my time over I think I would do more research before buying one.

If you think untangling rope is difficult, try fine braided fishing line - now there is a nightmare. I have found that the combination of a lot of patience (as model builders we are all patient people.... aren't we???) combined with tweezers and picking tools from the dental set I bought from Ebay a while ago worked quite well. I am also a strong believer in removing kit supplied thread from the card or plastic bag (on/in which it is often supplied) and transferring it to old fashioned cotton reels. Although still quite cheap, for some reason they have become collectable and are often found in antique/collectable shops. I have got some really good cotton thread from these sources in the past.

I have built a couple of models which were similar in design. On one these I glued the 'false keel' onto the bottom of the keel at the start and then clamped it. The problem I then had was that this 'false keel' broke away from the main keel because of the lateral forces which were applied during building ie - Me leaning on the thing!!! I corrected this by reglueing, predrilling and then fixing the false keel to the main keel piece with 5 or 6 small brass screws. This then became a very sturdy base which kept the keel from warping when clamped. As far as getting the bulkheads square to the keel, as has been said before on this site, Lego blocks clipped together to the appropriate size then clamped in place are very effective as they are sturdy and always a perfect right angle.

You are correct there Brian. I have done he same with the Caldercraft Supply that I am working on at the moment. Replaced stem post, rudder, tiller with solid timber and scratch built the winch mechanism which, to me, did not look correct as supplied by Caldercraft.

Hi Duncan. I too found that I used many of the plywood parts in Modellers Shipyard kits as templates and built these parts from solid timber - usually walnut. The result was much more pleasing. Your 'practise' technique for rigging is most interesting. I have not seen that done before!!

I go along with Keith, satin for me too. I have used both satin and flat in the past.

I started using an airbrush about 6 months ago. I use acrylics. Once you get your paint consistency and pressure right, you won't go back. Cleanup is easy. I also polyurethane with the airbrush. I use a 50-50 mix of poly and low odour turps and it works well. For painting acrylics I use a double action airbrush but for applying the poly I use a cheap single action airbrush. If you decide to go with an airbrush, make sure you get a compressor with a tank. It is quieter and you get a more consistent result. Make sure you have a moisture trap installed as well. I agree with NMBROOK about applying thin coats and sanding back between each. One of the big advantages of using an airbrush is the ability to apply very thin coats. I use a mix of 50% paint and 50-50 distilled water and clear windex. Even with 5 - 6 coats you can still see the wood grain - something I like. As to painting parts before assembly, If you are going to airbrush you will need to do this. I agree with S.Colman, plan ahead and paint what you can before you assemble. On my current build - HMS Supply, I have painted all planks (that needed painting), stern facia, fore deck facia, stem post, rudder, capping rails, and deck furniture with an airbrush before fitting. There are still a lot of places that I use a brush, for example window frames, but I'm sold on using my airbrush!!

I needed to drill some holes in a position where I could not get the dremel. A drill bit extension was required. Taking an old `Rabbit Ears' TV aeriel that I had lying around, I found that the shaft of my proxxon drill bits fitted snugly into a section that I cut from the end. The fact that these telescopic `Rabbit Ears' sections taper, means that a section could be found and cut to fit most drill bit diameters. I then inserted a broken proxxon drill bit into one end and silver soldered it in place. The drill bit I wanted to use also fitted snuggly in the opposite end. I found that it was a tight enough fit to use `as is' but if too loose, it could be soldered into place as well.

Sorry to disagree with you Janos, but if you read Duncan's initial posts he said that there were some errors with the kit. He also said that Modeller's Shipyard did not admit to all these errors. This struck a chord with me as I and others on this forum have had similar experiences with Modeller's Shipyard. Duncan's issues seemed to be minor and yes, it appears he is satisfied with Modeller's Shipyards response. THIS IS GREAT!!! Maybe complaints from members of this forum, including myself, have made them think more about their customer service. When I initially read his thread I thought he had just started the build (rather than producing the build log after completing the build - as I later realised) for this reason I also mentioned the problem I had with the Modellers Shipyard plans NOT BEING TO SCALE - something that had tripped me up in the past. Because this was his first build I felt that I should mention this to Duncan as well as it is, in my opinion, a relevant issue. I mentioned Miniature Steam and Float a Boat to Duncan because they are good companies which I was directed to by other members of this site. I see nothing wrong with giving a new member some 'good oil' on Aussie Suppliers - particularly those who provide excellent prices and service. You have every right to disagree with me and express your equally valid opinions but I don't have to agree with you. Best wishes. P.S sorry Duncan if you too feel I have hijacked your build log. It was never my intention. I will say no more on this matter and look forward to following your build.

Duncan, I also found that the use of contact cement was very difficult. Not to mention rather smelly. I now use Aquadhere Interior Quickset. I normally put a small dob of CA gel glue on the end of the plank to hold it while the aquadhere sets . This only takes a couple of minutes at most. The advantage of doing it this way is that you can move or remove the plank if needed before the glue sets. This is not possible when you use contact cement. Cleanup is also much easier. Cheers