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hornet

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Everything posted by hornet

  1. hornet
    I have used mine a lot with my TMB 220 drill stand. I found it works well as long as adjusted and fitted correctly. Agree with Mike though, the adjustment wheels are a bit fiddly. I find that I have more problems, accuracy wise, with drill bits flexing than any play in the table itself.
  2. hornet
    Miniature Steam in Melbourne sells Admiralty Acrylic Paints. These paints are in authentic Royal Navy colours and are, in my opinion, very good quality. They can be purchased online. Simply 'google' Miniature Steam and follow the links.
  3. hornet
    Keith, yes Bunnings has stopped selling Wattyl products. However, you can still get Wattyl matt, satin and gloss in spray cans from Home Hardware. I assume that you have them down your way a well. I like the Wattyl product and was most unimpressed when Bunnings stopped stocking it.
  4. hornet
    Agree with KeithW. I bought a range of these little sample bottles. They are good value for we model builders as they will go a loooong way when used on small modelling jobs. They are easily thinned. I mixed and experimented with them till I got the colour I wanted then stored the left over 'mixed' stain in syringes for later use. The syringes I 'stoppered' with nails which I cut down and ground to a point.
  5. hornet
    Could they possibly have meant sanding sealer - such as Feast Watson - available at Bunnings. I have recently finished the deck planking of my latest build. I simply used a few coats (sanded in between each) of satin polyurethane (estapol) mixed 50/50 low odour turps and applied with an airbrush. Works for me!
  6. hornet
    All of the above are excellent reasons for using the recommended double layer of planking on your first (and maybe even more builds after that!!) Hull planking is a skill that, in my opinion, takes a lot of practise to perfect. I sometimes wonder how many half planked HMS Victory's are out there in hobby land because a beginner became frustrated and lost interest. I am still learning tricks when planking even after 10 builds!!!! Although I have seen many excellent 'first attempts' on this forum, I think you should take very opportunity to practise. This means having a go at double planking. .
  7. hornet
    John Just got home from chasing a little white ball around the course.... stupid game!!! Anyhow, I have scanned and added the relevant pages of the manual below. I'm sure it doesn't break copyright as these are available to download on the net. I think the section most relevant to your needs is titled `Adjusting the guide play' Click on pics to enlarge and read. Hope this gets you out of trouble Steve
  8. hornet
    Hi Jhearl You can download the xy table manual from the net. Type Proxxon KT 70 compound table manual into your search engine. I found one but I can't get the link to work on this post. How to make adjustments is explained (briefly) in the manual. You will need a small allen key to adjust the screws. I have this table but can't remember if the allen key was included. I have several sets of them.
  9. hornet
    My big problem is that I never return stuff and I DON'T KNOW WHERE IT IS!!!!! :(
  10. hornet
    Wouldn't have a clue - The AP has a custom scale option, feed in your numbers and see if it works. I have found the AP meets all my needs, so far in modelling. I thought it might be useful for others who may not have heard of it or used it. Seems to cover all the common scales. If it doesn't seem useful to you don't download it.
  11. hornet
    Looks too complicated or this little black duck! I just use the Woodland Scenic Model Scaler AP. It is available on windows, iOS, Android and kindle for free!!! http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/page/modelscaler
  12. hornet
    I'll add a couple more examples from the Endeavour Replica. Made from canvas I think.
  13. hornet
    I have a canon 50D and take my model ship pics with a canon EFS 17 - 85mm lens. It is a great camera and takes very good pics. My son recently bought a compact DSLR with interchangeable lenses. I think if I had my time over I would investigate this format further. These cameras have the ability - and therefore flexibility - to change lenses like the standard size DSLR but are much smaller and lighter to carry around. Because taking photos of model ships is not ( I assume) the only thing that you will use this camera for, they are worth considering. The only drawback with them - in my opinion - is they don't have a viewfinder (I'm old school and like to have one!) and they are quite expensive when compared to a 'fixed lens' compact camera.
  14. hornet
    Thanks Shipaholic - They are
  15. hornet
    I am currently working on the Caldercraft Brig HMS Supply. I am starting to think about rigging and am not too pleased with the rigging plan supplied with the kit. It seems to have been `dumbed down' - maybe for beginners. Anyhow, I was thinking of using the plan from my model of the Brig 'Perseverance' as a guide - in conjunction with reference to Lennarth Peterssson's `Rigging Period Ship Models.' I know that rigging on all ships developed and changed over time but my concern/question is, would the rigging of the `Supply' in around 1788 have been much different than the `Perseverance' , in 1806. Any thoughts or input would be gratefully appreciated.
  16. hornet
    Great idea Matt, the Admiral has a salad bowl made out of the same stuff, maybe I could cut .......... On second thoughts maybe not
  17. hornet
    Zap a gap medium for applying copper plating. CA gel for other small jobs - I use one in a tube, it is cheaper than the dispenser type you have in your picture. However, I use it very sparingly as the fumes affect me if I forget to put on a mask. I mostly use a quick drying wood glue.
  18. hornet
    Excellent news!!!!!!! :)
  19. hornet
    I have used balsa as filler blocks. I found it worked better for pinning planks into if several coats of thinned wood glue were soaked into it and allowed to dry first. This made it a firmer base.
  20. hornet
    I've got the same one shown in your photo. In my opinion the base - which is just plastic - is too light. It works OK but if I had my time over I think I would do more research before buying one.
  21. hornet
    If you think untangling rope is difficult, try fine braided fishing line - now there is a nightmare. I have found that the combination of a lot of patience (as model builders we are all patient people.... aren't we???) combined with tweezers and picking tools from the dental set I bought from Ebay a while ago worked quite well. I am also a strong believer in removing kit supplied thread from the card or plastic bag (on/in which it is often supplied) and transferring it to old fashioned cotton reels. Although still quite cheap, for some reason they have become collectable and are often found in antique/collectable shops. I have got some really good cotton thread from these sources in the past.
  22. hornet
    I have built a couple of models which were similar in design. On one these I glued the 'false keel' onto the bottom of the keel at the start and then clamped it. The problem I then had was that this 'false keel' broke away from the main keel because of the lateral forces which were applied during building ie - Me leaning on the thing!!! I corrected this by reglueing, predrilling and then fixing the false keel to the main keel piece with 5 or 6 small brass screws. This then became a very sturdy base which kept the keel from warping when clamped. As far as getting the bulkheads square to the keel, as has been said before on this site, Lego blocks clipped together to the appropriate size then clamped in place are very effective as they are sturdy and always a perfect right angle.
  23. hornet
    You are correct there Brian. I have done he same with the Caldercraft Supply that I am working on at the moment. Replaced stem post, rudder, tiller with solid timber and scratch built the winch mechanism which, to me, did not look correct as supplied by Caldercraft.
  24. hornet
    Hi Duncan. I too found that I used many of the plywood parts in Modellers Shipyard kits as templates and built these parts from solid timber - usually walnut. The result was much more pleasing. Your 'practise' technique for rigging is most interesting. I have not seen that done before!!
  25. hornet
    I go along with Keith, satin for me too. I have used both satin and flat in the past.

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