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Ronald-V

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Everything posted by Ronald-V

  1. My idea was to use the lasered decks as a kind of template, by placing them on the decks you laid yourself and then poking the holes with a needle or something. So that you can see where everything will be placed. Your deck looks nice and clean by the way. The natural colors of the deck items give it a calm impression.
  2. That is some beautiful woodwork! Lovely build so far 😮
  3. Congratulations! Very well done! It looks beautiful in the display case
  4. Building the Victory is quite a monumental task for anyone, but doing it as your first build....respect! 😮😁 Looking good so far!
  5. Removing the planks with some tools: Ok...the removal process is quite delicate, you have to use just enough force, but not too much otherwise you will slip. This happened twice. In the first place it had no consequences, because that is covered by the oven. But in the second place it did because I damaged the checkered floor. But...I was already planning to do something with it (probably stick a printed white/black floor on it). But now that it had to be removed completely there are of course more possibilities. I can also extend the deck planks and put a nice carpet on it. Let's see what I think is the most beautiful/accurate. The captain's cabin will be painted white anyway (a nice example of this is in "Brunnels build log") The battlefield now looks like this : I must remind myself....it will look beautiful again 😛😄🫠
  6. So here I am now regarding the deck laying, but in my search for how to lay the margin plank etc... I came across a passage in Chuck's "Cheerful" about how to lay the deck in a curve. So that the deck slowly tapers towards the bow and towards the stern, as do the planks. I thought this would be very complicated so beforehand I just had the idea to lay the deck planks straight. But as Chuck explains it in this chapter: https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/resources/ChapterchapEight.pdf To be honest, it seemed doable to me. Worth a try anyway. That's why I wanted to try it with the main gun deck since most of it disappears under the upper decks anyway (if it doesn't look okay.) That way I could practice nicely. And it turns out I have ordered more than enough boxwood so that's why I'm now demolishing the planks that I have laid now (except between the hatches and gratings) So that's the plan! Seems like a nice challenge
  7. Lovely result! Well done, that's a nice addition to your fleet
  8. Hope you have some fun here
  9. You could gain some height by putting a cover strip on your stern. And lower the bulwarks a little? Split the difference this way perhaps
  10. haha okay!...well one day maybe I'll have the funds and space 😄
  11. It works quite well...experimented now with some planks and they stay the same dimensions. I used aluminum as a template with stops that are 0.2mm thinner than the deck planks. And I clamp the plates between the vice. That works accurately. I just have to be careful not to go too far, because the aluminum is no match for my woodplane and sanding stick I do think Johnny's solution was also a good one, but Gregory's was a bit cheaper to realize. (I had the aluminium profile lying around.) So thank you both!
  12. Lovely model! Well executed! Always loved that green color on the bulwarks
  13. Lovely update! Those jigs for mounting the gunport patterns in the right place are a handy detail, nice
  14. I must say, thank you for your efforts. Nice of you that you put this together just for demonstration purposes 👏 Now it's pretty clear and helpful! When you first told me I thought it would look different, but this does seem like a better and more solid approach. I'll definitely try it! It's also a quick and easy way to make. I could maybe counteract the back and forth movement by making the stops 0.1 or 0.2 lower than the target wood. So that the target wood is clamped more firmly?
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