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Ronald-V

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Everything posted by Ronald-V

  1. That looks really good! Maybe going to implement those also on my Sphinx. Your method to add the chamber doesn't look too complicated.
  2. Thanks Allen for clarification...yeah there were a few examples in the topic that I posted, on contempary models but also for example the HMS Victory. But I do think i'm going now for only the bottom and sides of the gunports. It does look good and it's also a bit less work. I need to see if I have some 0.6 material laying around, otherwise I settle at 0.5 pear that I have in stock. That tenth of a mm...I can handle that difference
  3. Thanks Cjames! That's a helpful post . At first I wanted to do all 4 sides of the gunport, but looking at your close-up...3 sides do look good also, so maybe going for that too. 1/32 is about 0.8mm so you used the same material as the outer planking? My thoughts were to use 0.5mm thick linings (not sure how much inch that is ). Will experiment a bit with different sizes, and what looks best.
  4. New update about what I've done this week: Installed the prow, keel and rudder post, including their outer patterns/facings so to speak. This gives the ship a whole new appearance. After that I glued the outer lower counter pattern in his perticular spot. This all went without trouble. Now I could measure the space between this pattern and the rudder post, so I could fill the difference with a thin piece of pear wood that I abstracted from the same sheet where also the outer patterns came out of. So there is no color difference Because of the thickness difference (the outer patterns of the rudder post and keel are 1mm thick and the supplied outer pear planks are 0.8mm thick) I maybe need a bit of filler underneath the second layer of pear planks against the rudder post and keel. Just to get them at a even height in the end. Will think about how to approach this. Last step that I've done was soak the fore outer planking patterns and clamped them onto the hull. They have dried overnight and will glue them soon onto the hull. A bit exciting these larger thin pieces of wood, so I need to gather some courage to get them in a good way onto the hull I also thought about the gunport stops and if i'm going to do them on all the gunports and not only at the ones with actual lids. I saw this idea in Blue Ensigns log and like the look when all the gunports have the stops, including those without a lid. So i'm going for those...it looks fairly easy to execute this small modification. The two questions after that were...glueing first the patterns onto the ship and install after that the stops? Or do them first and glue the patterns after that. I go with the first option because the outer patterns have a bit of extra "meat" onto the gunports...they are a bit smaller then the mdf inside frame so you have some wiggle room and you can sand them afterwards flush with the mdf framing. So it looks to me easier to install them afterwards. Next question was...at all four sides a stop or only at the sides and the bottom? I found this topic: And saw that both options look correct. It didn't seem if there was 1 correct answer, so then I choose for asthetics and will do all 4 sides because I find that look more appealing.
  5. Indeed your Alert looks great! Such a sweet little cutter, I like your progress so far
  6. You can see it's one of your specialties...very nice painting job and thanks for explaining
  7. Yeah those numbers of crew members are always mind boggling with these old ships. So weird how everyone fitted in and on these vessels. Life was hard back then. 😮
  8. Do I see it right that you also (not sure how to call it, but the small red edge on the inside of a gunport) lined off the gunports, like Blue Ensign also did in his version of the Sphinx?
  9. Really nice, you are doing a great job! Also beautiful lines in this ship
  10. Just sharing my solution how i've dealed with that little gap between the first layer of planking and counter planking. I used some filler to fill up the gap, also to give everything some strength because it's connected to each other. And at the counter planking I glued a extra 1 mm thick piece of pear so it covers the gap nicely. Now with testing a scrap piece of pear of 0.8mm (the second layer planking thickness) there no height difference anymore and it looks nice level to each other. Also if i'm not mistaking later in the construction the bottom part of the counter piece will be covered with a decorative strip of wood.
  11. Yes I saw it in your new build log. It does look good with the filler piece in. Thanks for your input
  12. Amazing progress so far! And I do like your color choices, it gives the ship a nice warm appearance.
  13. I've learned with building the Sphinx that diluted PVA gives you also more time jiggle around before it sets. Nice progress so far! Master Korabel and Vanguard Models are both quite innovative with their designs.
  14. Okay...it's time for me now to place the lower stern counter into the right place, but I have a question...let's see if I can explain it. Blue Ensign did a great job explaining how he tackled it, with temporary pinning the rest of the stern pieces. So you can see if everything lines up. Sounded like a great plan, so I did this too. Need here and there a few little corrections, but in general this looked good and on the correct height (if it's not please let me know ) I asume the first layer of planking needs to be on the same height (thickness) of the lower stern counter. One flows in the same height into the other, without elevation? Well that is what I think it should be but if it's not by design, please let me know. Because as you see in the lower pictures, you see that my first layer of planking is a bit lower than the stern counter. In the outer corners not so, but closer to the stem it is lower. I can put some filler to get it more level with each other.
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