Ronald-V

Acetone will remove CA? You can dissolve the build up and start over

This will help: https://www.youtube.com/@chuckpassaro7634 I would recommend you to watch part 1-4 of the Winchelsea video's Chuck Passaro demonstrates a really easy method of edge bending wood with a travel iron. Works like a charm!

I use a local brand CA that has sort of the same application bottle as the Gorilla one and that worked fine for me, but everyone has his own preference with this. So I would experiment with it. Don't have experience with Gorilla, but don't think it's bad also. For PVA I buy empty bottles with a fine tip that you need to cut of yourself, so you can determine how big the hole needs to be. You can find those on Amazon.

I use both glues for the second layer of planking. About 2cm or an inch of PVA with dots of CA in between. Worked great for me, just experiment what's most convenient for you. Your Sherbourne has already found its form!

That does look great!....Finished!

Edit: I was making a cup of tea and thinking about it...if a ship sails, the wind blows from stern to bow. So maybe the doors will protect the stove for the wind blowing in?

I hope someone can answer this...thought it was an interesting question

I think it depends about the taste of your client and you. The concensus about Walnut is that it's too coarse/grainy indeed. Personally I would use the Cherry wood you have lying around with some lighter wood for the deck. Maybe here and there a hint of color like the Mantua model:

That's a nice fitting plank against the bulwark side patterns, well done!

Ah thanks Glenn. I thought I had to sand between each layer, but it makes sense that the wood absorbs a lot of varnish first and that you can sand after a second or third layer. Your tips in Delf his "DoK" building log helped me to understand how to apply the WOP, so thank you Thanks everyone for the likes and nice comments! I appreciate it a lot

Congratulations with your fine Lady Nelson, excellent result! And nice how you displayed all the used tools, it shows indeed you can build a lovely model with limited tools.

Smashing pieces is indeed part of this hobby 😄

Thanks everyone. It is of course a little duller when dried so it definitely needs a few more coats. I will sand between coats with grid 400 and will see where it will bring me. But at first glance i'm quite happy and proud of my planking job Only now can I see what I've done in the past months haha 😄

Cannons look great! Are you going to rig them fully?

Just a little peek, because I'm quite excited what's happening with the wipe-on poly. I first taped off the location of the wales so the oil wouldn't get on that area. By the way, I just use Polyurethane lacquer and dilute it with white spirit (about 60/40) Minwax like our friends in America use is unaffordable here In the second photo I just applied the WOP so it still has to dry, but it looks already quite good! Here and there still a few little white spots of glue residue, but nothing major.

Thanks for your kind reaction Andrew! It isn't a large gap, but I have the tendency to focus too much on the negative, and then it's looking quite large in my head That's the cool thing with this hobby, for me there are many valuable life lessons hidden in modelship building. I learn a lot to deal with mental things that can derail me otherwise in life. Another example that I've learned with this hobby is staying in the moment, just focus on the part you are building and don't look forward how much needs to be done. In the past this could really paralize me and just give up. Model ship building for me is more than just building a miniature of a war ship

Update: Done with sanding...first grid 120 then 240 and finished with 400. Happy with the overall result, less happy with the planking at the bow. Somehow I didn't took enough time with that and as a result I've ended up with a small seam there. When I was almost done with the planks I did get ideas how the planks would fit well in the rabbet, but it was actually too late. A bit disappointing, but I think that is also part of model boat building...learning to deal with your own mistakes. And that can be hard for a perfectionist like me, but a valuable lesson. I used some diluted PVA and sanding dust to fill this gap, not super pretty, but okay. (also other small gaps at the keel etc.) I have to check the entire hull again for glue residue, because I plan to use wipe-on poly and you don't want any glue residue. I've already been quite busy on the keel, because I was a bit messy there with the glue . And if unexpectedly some light spots appear after the first layer of WOP, then it can still be sanded away, but ideal would be no glue residue in the first place . And the sternpost need some sanding too as you can see, there is some filler on there. My plan was to mount the wales after this, but when I saw in Blue Ensign's log that he had first oiled the hull and then mounted the wales, that seemed like a better order to me. Otherwise you might have problems with glue residue on the bottom of the wales and now that will be better sealed with the WOP. Tip: With wiping white spirit over the hull you can see the glue spots lighting up, because the liquid won't penetrate the wood due to the glue. Then with some alcohol and sanding paper remove the glue...that's the theory, the real test is with the WOP ofcourse. 😬

Amazing result! And didn't realize it's this large 😮

Have fun on your new journey!

Once I have measured the taper I then use a (small) woodplane to remove most of the material and finish it off with a sanding block. Also to get a smooth transition from the tapered part to the unworked part

That's beautiful!

Great work so far! Love the soft colors you used in combination with the natural wood color. 1:100 isn't easy to work with, but you are doing great with it!

Welcome

Welcome! I hope you can learn something here and have fun