Ronald-V
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Everything posted by Ronald-V
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I must say, thank you for your efforts. Nice of you that you put this together just for demonstration purposes 👏 Now it's pretty clear and helpful! When you first told me I thought it would look different, but this does seem like a better and more solid approach. I'll definitely try it! It's also a quick and easy way to make. I could maybe counteract the back and forth movement by making the stops 0.1 or 0.2 lower than the target wood. So that the target wood is clamped more firmly? -
Lol...i'm not that fast😆
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Yes I did that to make some top and butt planking, that is also an option...thanks for the tip!
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Personally I think option 4 would be my choice. Since it is painted you can fill possible seams nicely with putty to remove any appearance of 2 parts You can't see both sides at the same time anyway so it won't be noticeable in the end result.
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Thanks for your detailed explanation! I will look into it
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Congratulations with finishing this one really nice result and indeed your workspeed is impressive!
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It looks great so far! 💫👍
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That would be the same as this much cheaper one on Amazon right? https://www.amazon.nl/-/en/Walfront-Leather-Craftool-Adjustable-Cutting/dp/B076B1WF9H It's an interesting piece for sure
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It was a bit difficult to find an answer to this with the search function, so I'll do it this way. I'm busy planking the deck of my Sphinx and now I want to make let's say 5mm wide planks narrower to 4.5mm. How do you tackle this so that you consistently get the same size and do a whole batch this way. I do it myself now per piece with a wood plane and sanding stick, but maybe there is an easier option. Just wondering if there is an easier way. Normally people would use a table saw and a sheet of material I assume, but say you have only 5mm planks available
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I had a lot of planks in the hull planking that had different dimensions than the standard supplied planks. And now between the hatches and gratings I use also a bit wider planks then the 4mm that I will use for the rest. But I shape all those planks with a small wood plane and sanding sticks. Now it just went wrong because I tried to sand 5 planks stacked at the same time. They all got different sizes, and that's why the deck laying went wrong...it started to be a bit wonky. So I have to go back to doing 1 board at a time, which of course takes a lot longer
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That turned out really good! Well done! I like the different shades...it makes it a bit more alive so to speak. I just started tearing mine down because it wasn't quite right🥲
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Incredible work! So precise and clean
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They look sharp! I will first try the wooden ones included with the Sphinx kit, but nice to know there is some nice back-up
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That mitre cutter looks way better than the fiddly plastic Amati one I have! And your tilling looks great, that's a lot of tiles 😮
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I use the same as for the planks of the outside hull. Just some lines of PVA with dots of CA in between for the immediate hold 🙂
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Update: Started laying the deck. I use boxwood 4x1mm for this. Except for pieces like here in the middle of the hatches and gratings. I want to have 1 plank over the center line for reinforcement since I am not using the lasered piece that would normally provide the strength. So in between come a few other sizes of planks to get exactly on the edge of the hatches and gratings. I find it handy that Chris places the hatches and gratings on the deck instead of having them fall between the holes. This makes the planking a lot easier because they go over it anyway. So that's a plus This is the first time I'm working with boxwood and that certainly takes some getting used to. It feels a lot harder and drier than the pear. So I have to learn how to work with it. But it's fun to do this again, it feels like 1 big jigsaw puzzle!
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Halò from the Highlands of Scotland.
Ronald-V replied to Highlander's topic in New member Introductions
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Thank you very much Nipper!
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Just looking at some photo's of the HMS Victory, which is ofcourse a total different color sheme, but here are the shot garlands also painted black. Looks pretty cool I must say. Ofcourse it would look different in model, but still maybe I overthought this Edit: Found also a contemporary model with black hatches, grating edges and shot garlands. Posting this stuff so it may help others also
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Thanks Chris! It's a nice detail of course so to leave it out altogether would be a shame I think. Let's see what I think looks best
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I am doing some research on how to lay the deck etc. and also how the hatches and gratings would look. Of course I have to take this into account before I lay the deck. Now I wonder if the shot garlands were present in the original or if Chris added them as an extra detail. I can't find them on the original Sphinx deck plan, but perhaps these details are not mentioned on a deck plan. Since I would like to make a curve in the gratings and hatches it would be nicer to paint them black afterwards, but with the shot garlands that would look strange in my opinion, because the cannon balls are already black, maybe leave the shot garland natural pear, or just everything natural pear...or to omit the shot garlands at all. Not sure yet what would look nice here. What do you guys think?
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That's a brave pad to follow! I'm going to plank the decks also myself and was wondering which route to take. For myself an easier variation would be "hooded" plank like Blue Ensign called them in his Sphinx build. They look a bit more atainable for me lol. Not sure if one is more correct to the other by the way.
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