Ronald-V

Congratulations on the sale! I can imagine that at some point you have to sell models because there is simply no more room for them, especially this one! But it will indeed hurt a little bit, because you have put so much time and energy into it. Especially if it is gone so soon!

Congratulations on finishing this masterpiece Glenn! Superb

The video's in which Chuck Passaro explains how he planks his Winchelsea model are here: Planking tutorial Winchelsea

Welcome! And l echo the others...start a build log, it really helps to track your progress and get help from forum member who are building also the Dory. Even the designer of the Dory kit is a member here

I would try different materials and see what you like best. Everyone has their own preferences. I have experience with wooden battens and tape. Wooden battens follow the natural curves more easily without "sharp corners". And with tape you have to be more careful not to get "sharp" corners. For example, with my current Sphinx build I used wooden battens for the first layer because I didn't quite understand how the lines would be, and for the second layer I used tape because I already felt a bit more confident to set out the lines with tape. (Tape is easier to attach than wooden battens). In terms of dimensions I wouldn't go wider than 4mm (and not to thick say 1mm), whether it's tape or wood...and anything below that is fine. Again, experiment to see what you like

Lovely work again...the use of colors and weathering with your build is spot on 👌really liking it

Not related to your question, but lovely planking!

Indeed a nice deck

Very nice and clean build! Congratulations on finishing it

That is some serious bending there! But you managed that well, looks good

Update: Installing the stern gallery...this part went pretty smoothly! I think the pre-fitting when I was attaching the lower stern counter (post #92) definitely helped everything fit nicely...below is a photo report of how I glued the parts. First pre-fitting the (inner) stern fascia. This is the base that has to look good. Everything measured and worked from there. It turned out that the (inner) upper counter fit perfectly in between, which was a relief and confirmation that everything was exactly where it should be. Already tried the nails so that I can later push it into place with gluing. Gluing was easy and clamping was not difficult. Then it was just a matter of gluing the Stern fascia in place (it could rest nicely on top of the upper counter) And the result looks nice and straight and good (I think so ) Now comes the trickier part...the side galleries that probably need some modification since I have open doors. Let's take a step by step look at how I'm going to tackle it.

I wish you all the best with this one! A brave choice to go for an (old) Corel kit but I think it will be good in your skilled hands I do think it's a nice handsome little ship when it's finished.

It would be nice if manufacturers would upgrade their products as newer techniques become available...but of course there is a price tag attached to that. I do wonder why some manufacturers continue to stick to white metal castings (like Artesania Latina with the new Victory) and don't switch to new techniques in the newer models

Agreed...I have it too and I don't think the quality and accuracy are very good, perhaps the Proxxon is more accurate here...although I have no experience with it (but since they are more focused on model building, you would think it should be)

Great planking!

Thanks! And yes I considered the MF70...but didn't really see an application for this kit at first sight. So for now I kept the money in the wallet. Maybe I can use it for a later project, but this way I can also spread the finances a bit I don't have a very big budget at the moment.

If I would add something...a disc sander is one tool that I use all the time and wouldn't want to be without, made life a lot easier Also for just kit building...it's fast and precise

Ah then we mean the same thing 👌

Nice clean work again! With some varnish it will look amazing

Thanks Brunnels! And thanks everyone for all the likes, I really appreciate it

Interesting execution of the Victory Personally I don't like all the aesthetic choices of the cutout (the white gunports), but everyone can decide for themselves to adjust that. By the way, you have to be a bit of an idiot to rig 104 cannons lol😆...or you'll go crazy after rigging 104 cannons🤣

Maybe the first 5 planks or so would not require edge bending, but not sure how you would plank the rest of the bow without it? And by edge bending you just remove the need of using force

Update: Ok, first I placed the spirketting. First painted and then placed on the model. Enough clamps were of course needed to get good adhesion everywhere. The upper parts had to be a bit higher than the adjacent bulwarks according to the manual... I did this, but unfortunately not enough, which is why the spirketting protrudes a little bit at some gun ports. I first thought about sanding those parts away, but I think that will look weird. You can only see it if you sit lower than the water level and then look up. It is actually not noticeable at all unless you know about it. So I will leave it like this (I saw the same in almost every other log, so many people seem to have the same problem) Secondly I placed a waterway of 1x1mm boxwood with a very small beveled edge (the beveled edge could have been a bit bigger). I think that this connects the spirketting and the deck nicely. And thirdly...I drilled the drainage/scupper holes. First I made a sort of center point with a hand drill so that the Dremel doesn't "search" afterwards. Some things I learned...support yourself with your hand and Dremel on the deck so that you don't vibrate. And first turn off the Dremel after you have drilled deep enough, and then take it out. If you don't do that, you can still touch something with a rotating drill, or the hole won't turn out as nice. By the way, I just kept 1mm holes (same size as Chris used with the lasered deck) Now I have to touch up a few spots with the paint. Next step will be...the outside of the captain's cabin. Another exciting step

That is some nice tight planking there!

Pearwood is indeed a beautiful wood to work with. Personally I do not pre-soak the planks, apart from the garboard strake which I kept in 1 length. The drying time seems to me something that would take a lot of time. I myself prefer an iron and plank nipper (edge bending with the "Chuck Method"). That is pretty fast and clean...but it just depends on what you feel comfortable with