Ronald-V
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Everything posted by Ronald-V
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They look sharp! I will first try the wooden ones included with the Sphinx kit, but nice to know there is some nice back-up -
That mitre cutter looks way better than the fiddly plastic Amati one I have! And your tilling looks great, that's a lot of tiles 😮
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I use the same as for the planks of the outside hull. Just some lines of PVA with dots of CA in between for the immediate hold 🙂
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Update: Started laying the deck. I use boxwood 4x1mm for this. Except for pieces like here in the middle of the hatches and gratings. I want to have 1 plank over the center line for reinforcement since I am not using the lasered piece that would normally provide the strength. So in between come a few other sizes of planks to get exactly on the edge of the hatches and gratings. I find it handy that Chris places the hatches and gratings on the deck instead of having them fall between the holes. This makes the planking a lot easier because they go over it anyway. So that's a plus This is the first time I'm working with boxwood and that certainly takes some getting used to. It feels a lot harder and drier than the pear. So I have to learn how to work with it. But it's fun to do this again, it feels like 1 big jigsaw puzzle!
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Halò from the Highlands of Scotland.
Ronald-V replied to Highlander's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome! 💫 -
Thank you very much Nipper!
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Just looking at some photo's of the HMS Victory, which is ofcourse a total different color sheme, but here are the shot garlands also painted black. Looks pretty cool I must say. Ofcourse it would look different in model, but still maybe I overthought this Edit: Found also a contemporary model with black hatches, grating edges and shot garlands. Posting this stuff so it may help others also
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Thanks Chris! It's a nice detail of course so to leave it out altogether would be a shame I think. Let's see what I think looks best
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I am doing some research on how to lay the deck etc. and also how the hatches and gratings would look. Of course I have to take this into account before I lay the deck. Now I wonder if the shot garlands were present in the original or if Chris added them as an extra detail. I can't find them on the original Sphinx deck plan, but perhaps these details are not mentioned on a deck plan. Since I would like to make a curve in the gratings and hatches it would be nicer to paint them black afterwards, but with the shot garlands that would look strange in my opinion, because the cannon balls are already black, maybe leave the shot garland natural pear, or just everything natural pear...or to omit the shot garlands at all. Not sure yet what would look nice here. What do you guys think?
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That's a brave pad to follow! I'm going to plank the decks also myself and was wondering which route to take. For myself an easier variation would be "hooded" plank like Blue Ensign called them in his Sphinx build. They look a bit more atainable for me lol. Not sure if one is more correct to the other by the way.
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I'm going to leave the outside of the hull for what it is now and concentrate on the main gun deck. I haven't mounted this yet and don't want to get too far behind with the manual. Unfortunately I messed up the lasered deck (the replacement that is 🥲, still thankful for Chris sending me this, sadly i'm a bit clumsy) How that happened I described earlier in my log. But then decided to lay the deck myself with boxwood, seems like a nice challenge to me and I also thought the deck of Blue Ensign's Sphinx looked beautiful. So that is a bit of the inspiration for this. So this will be the next chapter!
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Update: The wales are now finished, painted as well as the thick strake above the wales. I cut the thick strake into pieces with a knife to make mounting easier. It consisted of 2 long pieces and that seemed quite difficult to get on properly in one go. So I cut these on the lasered planks and glued them on with PVA and CA. This went a lot easier (less stressful). Also painted the sides before mounting so that I didn't have to do this on the model anymore. The paint I used is "Gun metal black" from Admiralty paints. I first mixed some white and yellow through it to make it a bit grayer and duller, but when I had the first layer on I noticed that it looked a bit patchy. I think the Admiralty paints don't mix well with each other. But it didn't matter, I just painted it over with the standard color in the end. I think it looks good and you can still see the lasered planks shining through nicely. The wales are a few tenths too high at the front and there is a small difference in symmetry at the stern. Too bad, but I can't worry about it too much haha Glad I have these tricky things finished! It makes the model a lot more finished and neater.
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Shouldn't you change that bit there?..... No kidding Chris, they look great! 😃
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Looks cozy!
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The hull looks really nice now! Nice clean line with the bulwark patterns in place 💫
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After I installed the wales I found out that there were still a lot of seams on the top and bottom where the wales were not attached to the hull. So with some diluted PVA and more nails 🤪 I was able to get it all right. Now just filled everything with wood filler (I think at least a hundred holes if not more 🥲) But when sanded it should look great!
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Thanks Rod! Will try your tip also...but if none of it works, a bit of sanding and some WOP will mask most of it I think. And with all the other stuff that get's mounted it won't be really noticable I assume
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Welcome! That's an extensive library!
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It does look goed Brunnels! But I know what you mean...I think the difference with real life is how the ropes are looking. For me a great example how I would like to rig my cannons is @Katsumoto with his "Xebec" build. I'm really impressed how his ropes are looking (He replaced the kit ones) https://modelshipworld.com/topic/26982-cazador-jabeque-xebec-by-katsumoto-finished-occre-160/page/3/
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