Keith_W

LOL....oops, the tour guide didn't know what he was telling you.
I love all the pictures you put up from the Batavia. You are giving me a detailed tour of what is located on the other side of the planet.
Thank you.
Marc

Here are more.
 

 
View of the curved timbers at the stern.
 

 
Where toledo worm had eaten holes in the hull, Dutch carpenters mended the damage with patches, as shown here.
 

 
Scarph joint.
 

 
I asked the tour guide what these little holes represented. He said that the hull was copper plated. I pointed out that the Batavia was launched in 1629, and that copper plating was only invented in 1750. He said that he will discuss this with the curator. Anybody know what these holes may represent? They seem too regular to be due to marine life.
 

 

 

 
Pictures of the inside of the hull, looking towards the stern.
 

 

 

 
Various artefacts recovered from the ship.
 

 

 
A victim of murder. Note the hatchet mark on the skull.

I was going to create a new thread when I remembered there was an existing thread on the Batavia, so I decided to upload photos here instead. So here goes.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In England at least, some ships were sheathed with an expendable / renewable thin layer of planks. Sometimes "noxious compounds" were put under the planks. It was fairly effective at keeping worms out of the real planking but did nothing to inhibit the growth of weed during long jouneys. Some ships returned from years long trips to the tropics trailing long streamers of seaweed which slowed their speed to a crawl.
 
There were limited experiments with closely spaced big headed nails

I remember reading somewhere early methods of anti fouling involved the use of lead (or other non-ferrous) nails.
 
Andy

Wonderful pictures, thank you!
 
"I asked the tour guide what these little holes represented. He said that the hull was copper plated. I pointed out that the Batavia was launched in 1629, and that copper plating was only invented in 1750. He said that he will discuss this with the curator. Anybody know what these holes may represent? They seem too regular to be due to marine life."
 
Second wooden planking as food for the worms?
 
XXXDAn

I don't know how I missed this thread, but i'm going to start following it now!
 
I grew up in Perth as well, and have been to the Batavia museum many times. There is a very nice model of the Batavia in the museum. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of it. Maybe another West Australian can oblige.
 
You are doing a great job with this model. Thank you for posting!

Here are more.
 

 
View of the curved timbers at the stern.
 

 
Where toledo worm had eaten holes in the hull, Dutch carpenters mended the damage with patches, as shown here.
 

 
Scarph joint.
 

 
I asked the tour guide what these little holes represented. He said that the hull was copper plated. I pointed out that the Batavia was launched in 1629, and that copper plating was only invented in 1750. He said that he will discuss this with the curator. Anybody know what these holes may represent? They seem too regular to be due to marine life.
 

 

 

 
Pictures of the inside of the hull, looking towards the stern.
 

 

 

 
Various artefacts recovered from the ship.
 

 

 
A victim of murder. Note the hatchet mark on the skull.

Hi Hans, I have uploaded my pictures into this thread: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5315-batavia-shipwreck-photos/

Lisa, I have found that Tamiya masking tape is ideal. You need to rub it with a fingernail to get it down into the nooks and crannies before you start painting. As added insurance, make sure you build up paint slowly at the area which is masked - a large wash of thin paint is more likely to seep under the tape or between the planks due to capillary action. 
 
I have another way of marking the waterline. I mark where the line should be fore and aft, and also make a couple more marks in between using the plans. I then use a thin strip of plank and tape it to the model, using the marks as a guide. At once you can see what the waterline looks like. No need to use shims, no need to level the model, no need to erase pencil marks (which are surprisingly hard to get off) if you mark your waterline wrongly. 

OK I know this is a ship model forum but surely most of us can appreciate other models as well
 
I thought I would post a link to this site: http://www.armortek.co.uk/index.html
 
Armortek makes 1/6 scale model tanks, fabricated from metal. Unfortunately, their production goes in runs, so once a kit is out of production, it is out of production. They are currently selling a British Mk. IV WW1 tank. Very impressive, but not as impressive as this:
 

 
... a 1/6 scale King Tiger, measuring 1.2m long and weighing 60kg. Here is a video of it in action. Note the realistic engine sound (which is computer controlled and responds to revs):
 

This Mil Mi-24 helicopter is equally impressive. It is offered for 18,000 Euros from Helicrazy: http://www.helicrazy.com/crbst_86.html
 
That's right, you can buy a BMW with that kind of money. It is powered by a jet turbine engine. For those who don't know, real helicopters are not powered by piston engines because they generate too much vibration. Instead, a jet engine blows into a turbine, which spins the crankshaft and thus the rotor via a transmission. Most nitro powered helis use 2 stroke piston engines because of the sheer cost of manufacturing a scale miniature of a jet turbine. But if you want realism, a jet turbine is the only way.
 
Need to be convinced? Watch this video:
 

Keith,
Indeed, I realized that I can purchase some additional after market canon to replace the one lost inside the hull. First, I will check if I can use the kit-supplied deck gun to fit into the gunport. I have already bougth 14 decorated guns for the deck canons, so I have some spares.
 
About the threads of the gunport lids: indeed, I drilled a small hole through the lid and also drilled a hole in the hull above the gunport. I made a small knot in the thread and put it through the hole in the lid. Then is pushed the thread into the hole in the hull until the desired amount of rope was left. Next, I fixated the thread in the hull with some glue. Afterwards, gravity made sure that there is some tension on the rope between hull and lid. The thread at the 'inside' of the lid was cut to the desired length and then stretched somewhat and glued at the lower corner of the gunport. This resulted in some tension in that part of the thread as well.
 
Thanks for reading and commenting!

Thanks again everyone. When I get home, all I want to do is go to my little hobby room and do work. It does keep my mind off things.
 
Anyway, I have finished painting the figure of Captain Bligh. This is what he looked like:
 

 
I tried my best to sculpt a figure in his likeness. I think I have only partially succeeded.
 
For those who are interested in painting technique, this is how I did it:
 
1. Sculpt the figure and thoroughly sand it. Then clean it in soapy water and dry.
 
2. Prime the figure using the recommended primer for your brand of paint (I used Mr. Hobby Primer, which works for the Vallejo paints I am using).
 
3. Apply a uniform base coat - in this case: flesh for face and hair, blue for jacket, ivory white for vest and trousers, leather brown for boots.
 
4. Use a wet palette to blend colours, then repaint the figure.
 
This is how a wet palette works.
 

 
Place absorbent material in a container. In this case, I used a disposable plastic lid with disposable kitchen wipe.
 

 
Fill the palette with water until it is slightly below the level of the folded kitchen wipe, then place plain paper on top (I used typing paper).
 

 
Add your colours and blend. Here are the three colours I used to paint the face - basic flesh, red, and beige. You can see that the variation in colour is smooth, allowing me to paint different parts of the face in subtly different shades.
 

 
Using the blended paint, paint your figure. I like Vallejo because the pigments seem to be ground much more finely than other brands, so it is good for detail work.
 
Why use a wet palette instead of a normal (dry) palette? Two reasons: 1) it keeps your paint from drying out. Vallejo acrylics dry VERY FAST. If you use a dry palette, you are racing against time to paint your figure. 2) it helps dilute the paint and makes it flow better.
 
It is now more than 24 hours since I painted my figure, and the paint in the wet palette is still usable even though conditions here in Melbourne are pretty dry and warm at the moment.

Re: furled sails, I found this, but it looks wrong:
 

 
I suspect this painting is more accurate. Note how the sails are folded like an accordion:
 

 
Can anybody help?

Thanks again everyone. When I get home, all I want to do is go to my little hobby room and do work. It does keep my mind off things.
 
Anyway, I have finished painting the figure of Captain Bligh. This is what he looked like:
 

 
I tried my best to sculpt a figure in his likeness. I think I have only partially succeeded.
 
For those who are interested in painting technique, this is how I did it:
 
1. Sculpt the figure and thoroughly sand it. Then clean it in soapy water and dry.
 
2. Prime the figure using the recommended primer for your brand of paint (I used Mr. Hobby Primer, which works for the Vallejo paints I am using).
 
3. Apply a uniform base coat - in this case: flesh for face and hair, blue for jacket, ivory white for vest and trousers, leather brown for boots.
 
4. Use a wet palette to blend colours, then repaint the figure.
 
This is how a wet palette works.
 

 
Place absorbent material in a container. In this case, I used a disposable plastic lid with disposable kitchen wipe.
 

 
Fill the palette with water until it is slightly below the level of the folded kitchen wipe, then place plain paper on top (I used typing paper).
 

 
Add your colours and blend. Here are the three colours I used to paint the face - basic flesh, red, and beige. You can see that the variation in colour is smooth, allowing me to paint different parts of the face in subtly different shades.
 

 
Using the blended paint, paint your figure. I like Vallejo because the pigments seem to be ground much more finely than other brands, so it is good for detail work.
 
Why use a wet palette instead of a normal (dry) palette? Two reasons: 1) it keeps your paint from drying out. Vallejo acrylics dry VERY FAST. If you use a dry palette, you are racing against time to paint your figure. 2) it helps dilute the paint and makes it flow better.
 
It is now more than 24 hours since I painted my figure, and the paint in the wet palette is still usable even though conditions here in Melbourne are pretty dry and warm at the moment.

Haha I don't agree with you about the crappy boat, but I do love Captain Bligh! 
 
I thought you had done a great job sculpting but the painting has brought him to life (and thank you for the details on the wet palette too)  He looks terrific!

Thank you for the condolences everyone. If you look at the Viking Ship in my signature, that was made for him. I gave it to him for his 40th birthday, which was not all that long ago. I was going to build a Vasa for him as well. I guess i'll do it for his children.
 
(edit) here is a picture of us. I'm the Asian guy on the left. Daniel, bless him, has left us.
 

 
I don't know why I am still awake. I better go to bed now

AL and Billings are almost mirror images of each other. The failings of one is the strength of the other.
 
Accuracy: Billings are often more accurate, AL usually quite inaccurate. Also, many AL ships are vessels which never existed. They are products of the designer's imagination.
 
Quality of wood: AL supplies excellent wood, the wood in Billings is terrible. AL boats look good if left unpainted, whereas Billings definitely need paint or stain.
 
Fittings: AL fittings are cast metal which may be a little coarse, but looks nice. Good use of Photoetched parts. Billings fittings are plastic, they feel cheap, but looks OK when painted.
 
Instructions and plans: nearly indecipherable in AL, decipherable in Billings but too sketchy.

AL and Billings are almost mirror images of each other. The failings of one is the strength of the other.
 
Accuracy: Billings are often more accurate, AL usually quite inaccurate. Also, many AL ships are vessels which never existed. They are products of the designer's imagination.
 
Quality of wood: AL supplies excellent wood, the wood in Billings is terrible. AL boats look good if left unpainted, whereas Billings definitely need paint or stain.
 
Fittings: AL fittings are cast metal which may be a little coarse, but looks nice. Good use of Photoetched parts. Billings fittings are plastic, they feel cheap, but looks OK when painted.
 
Instructions and plans: nearly indecipherable in AL, decipherable in Billings but too sketchy.

Thanks again everyone. When I get home, all I want to do is go to my little hobby room and do work. It does keep my mind off things.
 
Anyway, I have finished painting the figure of Captain Bligh. This is what he looked like:
 

 
I tried my best to sculpt a figure in his likeness. I think I have only partially succeeded.
 
For those who are interested in painting technique, this is how I did it:
 
1. Sculpt the figure and thoroughly sand it. Then clean it in soapy water and dry.
 
2. Prime the figure using the recommended primer for your brand of paint (I used Mr. Hobby Primer, which works for the Vallejo paints I am using).
 
3. Apply a uniform base coat - in this case: flesh for face and hair, blue for jacket, ivory white for vest and trousers, leather brown for boots.
 
4. Use a wet palette to blend colours, then repaint the figure.
 
This is how a wet palette works.
 

 
Place absorbent material in a container. In this case, I used a disposable plastic lid with disposable kitchen wipe.
 

 
Fill the palette with water until it is slightly below the level of the folded kitchen wipe, then place plain paper on top (I used typing paper).
 

 
Add your colours and blend. Here are the three colours I used to paint the face - basic flesh, red, and beige. You can see that the variation in colour is smooth, allowing me to paint different parts of the face in subtly different shades.
 

 
Using the blended paint, paint your figure. I like Vallejo because the pigments seem to be ground much more finely than other brands, so it is good for detail work.
 
Why use a wet palette instead of a normal (dry) palette? Two reasons: 1) it keeps your paint from drying out. Vallejo acrylics dry VERY FAST. If you use a dry palette, you are racing against time to paint your figure. 2) it helps dilute the paint and makes it flow better.
 
It is now more than 24 hours since I painted my figure, and the paint in the wet palette is still usable even though conditions here in Melbourne are pretty dry and warm at the moment.

Thanks Steve. You would be grumpy too if you were sitting in a crappy boat that I built
 
Bligh was made from Super Sculpey. Read Chuck's instructions on how to use Sculpey here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-furniture-and-deck-fittings.php
 
Also look at Doris' Royal Caroline build log. Somewhere in there she has a tutorial (with video) on how to use Sculpey.

Thank you for the condolences everyone. If you look at the Viking Ship in my signature, that was made for him. I gave it to him for his 40th birthday, which was not all that long ago. I was going to build a Vasa for him as well. I guess i'll do it for his children.
 
(edit) here is a picture of us. I'm the Asian guy on the left. Daniel, bless him, has left us.
 

 
I don't know why I am still awake. I better go to bed now

No need squeaky track sounds, the tracks are metal and they squeak by themselves. Take a look at some of the other videos

This Mil Mi-24 helicopter is equally impressive. It is offered for 18,000 Euros from Helicrazy: http://www.helicrazy.com/crbst_86.html
 
That's right, you can buy a BMW with that kind of money. It is powered by a jet turbine engine. For those who don't know, real helicopters are not powered by piston engines because they generate too much vibration. Instead, a jet engine blows into a turbine, which spins the crankshaft and thus the rotor via a transmission. Most nitro powered helis use 2 stroke piston engines because of the sheer cost of manufacturing a scale miniature of a jet turbine. But if you want realism, a jet turbine is the only way.
 
Need to be convinced? Watch this video: