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Rick01
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Everything posted by Rick01
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I'm at the stage of rigging my cutter "Lady Nelson" and am puzzling over the flag hoist. Both the plans and Petersson agree that a block is roved to the tip of the gaff but then differ in that Petersson has the "loose" ends run down to a belaying pin whilst the kit indicates a continuous loop running through a second block fixed to a ring bolt by the rudder. Using this latter system, once the flag is hoist how does it then remain hoist? I'm assuming that the apparent continuous loop does in fact have a loop and toggle clipped together when no flag attached, otherwise fixed to the flag appropriately. (Hope this makes sense). Rick
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When you do get to the rigging you'll find that you need a few more belaying points than the kit allows. I've 8 ring bolts around the mast I should have remade the belaying pin rack (can't think of the correct word!) as the pins are to close together - would have been better split in two and set between two cannon positions. Rck
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Basically true!! Rick
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Fillers then deck - I'm building this model and that (to me) is much the better way. Rick
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The first item in the book is actually of a cutter with enough information to fully rig your "Lady Nelson". Much more detail is provided than on the plans (I'm building this myself at the moment). Rick
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" I will try my best to make a perfect Lady Nelson, but know I will never get there." As this kit is actually generic in that there was no cutter "Lady Nelson" as long as you follow the general layout etc. for an 18th century cutter you will have produced your own "perfect" model. Lennarth Petersson's "Rigging Period Fore_and-aft Craft will give you a reasonable rigging plan (better than the stripped down version supplied) and a look here at contemporary cutter models will also provide some illumination. Rick
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Check my build here http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8158-hms-endeavours-longboat-rick01-finished-artesania-latina-160/for using rubber bands and lego bricks! Both very useful items. Rick
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They also get used in the veggie section of Coles and Safeway - usually around assorted Chinese stuff (pak choy, bok choy etc.) Rick
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Getting there - do you have any of those thick red rubber bands that posties put around all your letters? If so they are pretty good at holding planking in place. Rick
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Don't know how far you've got (unless you're holidaying in the Whitsundays or somewhere else). Just a thought - I had problems with the cannon ports in that they were slightly to small to allow any elevation on the cannon and in fact the lids were resting on the barrels. May have been me as I dumped the metal trunnions and produced wooden ones however just something to be aware of. Rick
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Looking good - I replaced my keel with a section of sold timber from a sheet of walnut. Rick
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Reason I used blocks at the end was to make pinning for the last two bulkheads easier - also used a lot of Post Office rubber bands - the broad red ones hold planking down quite well and a Leggo brick placed under them helps direct the pressure correctly. Rick
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If you haven't already then a read through some of these should answer your planking questions quite well. http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php I notice that you haven't installed the false keel as yet - I found that it was easier to install then plank up to it rather than try cutting any excess planking for the keel to fit. Finished lunch and having a rest? Rick
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You may want to consider blocks for the last two partitions at the stern as well. Otherwise looking good!! Got the aircon running today? Rick
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If she doesn't want to start with the longboat style then I'd recommend a cutter - single mast but plenty of detail but not overly hard to build. "Lady Nelson" "Mermaid" etc. a search for "Cutter" in titles should show a number of builds. Rick
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Both posted at the same time pretty well! I see you went for carronades but left the falconettes mounted. Rick
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I seem to recall I went the other way and shaved my deck area down to suit the transom, left the "curl" as is. You don't need a 100% fit up to the transom as the boat davits, gunwales and subsequent planking (both inboard and outboard) will cover any minor problems around the stern. As for the stem, stern, keel etc. I dumped the all the ply versions as they looked pretty bad ( can't disguise the ply) and cut my own from solid walnut. If you want to pop over (it's only about 180 km) I could show you all the modifications etc. that I made. Rick
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So - if you're going to "fiddle" then you'll need to make your own mast rings. I seem to remember that these were not included in the kit - one of the sketches I gave you will show how many you need. Rick
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Actually I've never used the brass fittings as they don't seem to fit to well.I use the wooden cradle either stained or painted. If you're going to use a "pin" between the fitting and the keel you'll need to drill the holes on th keel well before any deck fittings go on. Rick
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The "bag of parts" is the unassembled grating. :-) No there were no nuts and bolts with the brass stands. Rick
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Given that the Lady Nelson is only a "representative" cutter not modelled on a specific ship you would also be safe using the .05 strips. You would need to bulk up the bulwarks however as the capping rail assumes the full 2mm timber will be used. Rick
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If you do nothing else be aware that there is (probably - unless the mfg has fixed the instructions) a problem with the instructions when fitting the bulwarks. Here's a comment I made on another build of this model " Having just finished a build of this model I can add a comment for others - page 13 of this build mentions that there is a problem with bulwarks/ bow " I have added my cap rails and extensions.. I am a bit dissapointed my keel at bow seems to have fallen a bit short of where it should be.. Stern could be a bit higher above rails also. I dont know how that happened,". I had exactly the same problem and brought it up with the manufacturer, basically was told it was my fault even though I'd followed the instruction sheet as well as possible. So I went back to basics and rechecked all my work and still couldn't see where I'd gone wrong. Final thing was to check measurements - low and behold - there is a 2mm difference in height one end to the other for the bulwarks and although the fit appears better with the high end to the bows it should in fact have the lower end to the bows thus allowing the extra room in the bow/keel for the required drill holes. The instructions just say "identify and fit" no mention of the 2mm difference - I did point this out to the manufacturer and was told that they'd fix this in their next review. Rick
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Look at some of the other builds for this kit - it's not as accurate as it could be when compared with it's commander's sketches of it.This copy on Wikkie is a pretty good illustration https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6e/Mermaid_ship_%281817%29.jpeg. There are some others also available out there. This may also help http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9173-hm-mermaid-rigging-questions-edited-by-admin/ Rick
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Given that the kit is a "representative cutter" it seems to bear quite a resemblance to the cutter "Trial" at the Maritime Museum London. So if you want to tart it up a little you could check it out here http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66111.html?_ga=1.218131545.130913607.1476847166for a few tweaks. Rick
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I'm still progressing at the rate of 2~4 planks daily. That does include shaping, trial fit and finally gluing. Note the equal numbers - do one each side as this (hopefully) keeps it all fairly even as you progress down the ship. Rick
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