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davyboy

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Everything posted by davyboy

  1. That is an interesting painting but I suspect that they were carrying out some repair work on the hull. Not only did coppering prevent a shipworm infestation but also prevented the growth of various types of marine vegetation. Copper is I believe poisonous to plants. Dave
  2. Glenn,make your own. Sand down a piece of Pearwood and mix the dust into a thick paste with sanding sealer or model aircraft dope. You are then good to go. I did this and it worked perfectly and is virtually invisible. Dave
  3. All Grobet files should have the cut number stamped on them. I stand all my Swiss files in a wood block which I drilled to take their tangs/blunt end. Keeps them separate and easily identifiable. Dave
  4. Michael,I reacted but didn't like,that's horrendous. It doesn't get that cold here at 4000 metres altitude. Dave
  5. Hello Doris, These are the tackles for the Top Ropes which were used to lower the Topmasts. They were hooked to the top rope pendants which ran through sheaves in the heel of the Topmast. These pendants started from an eyebolt in the Lower Mast cap running through one of these sheaves up to a block on the opposite side of the cap then down to the tackles. There is a very good illustration of this in Lee's Masting and Rigging book (page 55). Also in R.C. Andersons 17th Century Rigging,drawing #13 items 166,167 and 168. Hope this helps with your wonderful model build. Dave
  6. Hi Maurice,very very nice indeed,super job👍. I look forward to the continuation next year. I had a rethink on my Speedwell POB. Didn't like the filler blocks fwd of the front bulkhead so they were chiseled out. Made the upper parts of the bollard timbers and 4 hawse timbers from pear and fitted them. Had to do some "surgery" on the fwd bulkhead and part of the lower filler blocks. Looks very much better. It was quite a job making these parts with a fretsaw,razor saw and files Regards and I wish you a Happy New Year. Dave
  7. I use medium grade aluminium oxide paper which gives very fine sawdust from the wood I'm using. This I mix to a paste with sanding sealer,works well and there's no alteration of the wood colour. Very useful for filling minor gaps in hull planking,if you don't paint it's virtually invisible. Dave
  8. Hi Srodbro,may I suggest you PM Jim Lad who is one of our mods. He lives in Sydney and is also a volunteer at the Maritime museum there. I'm sure he will be able to give you any info you require. Enjoy your cruise, Dave
  9. Hi Dirk,outstanding workmanship throughout your build,wonderful stuff. However,I think your Boom rests require rotating 90°,the boom could not rest in them as fitted. Dave
  10. Greg, Doris is still working on her Royal Katherine. Can be seen on the czech forum :- modelforum.cz Now has the lower masts stepped and rigging started. I wonder why she stopped posting here on MSW. Dave
  11. davyboy

    Potholes

    Oh dear,low priorities by the local Councils,my sympathies to you folks I've lived here in Switzerland for over 17 years and can honestly say I've never seen a pothole in any road,any damage to a road is quickly repaired. Dave
  12. Good evening Maurice, That's one of the problems with kits unfortunately. Scratch is the way forward Your idea of using 6 mm stock looks good to me anyway. I was very surprised to see what was provided in the kit for eyebolts and rings and those ghastly cast cannon,oh dear. Love your Alert print from the Science Museum by the way. I was in their shop 12 years ago hoping to replace a print of HMS Prince I bought in 1974 but was told they didn't sell prints anymore. Guess they must have started again. Dave
  13. You really need silver solder for joining brass wire. Ordinary solder is useless for this. Dave
  14. Hi André, Welcome on board MSW enjoy the voyage. Dave
  15. Hi Maurice, As usual lovely workmanship. Great job on the replacement catheads and sheaves,I like the idea of using plastic rod for them. Wish I'd thought of that on my Cheerful,I used dowels for all the sheaves. A pita as the smallest ones kept splitting when drilling . Regards, Dave
  16. Hi Mark, When I made a 90° scraper from a Stanley blade to cut the rebate on my current build I did the following. On the non cutting edges I used a small 1000 grit sharpening stone to round them down. Worked a treat,no marks on the keel. Dave
  17. Good evening Maurice,a very nice job on the "white stuff". Looking very good,I'm pretty sure the original waterline looked the same. Dave
  18. Hi Tom, Google The Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship. This will take you to the site of the San Francisco Maritime National Park Association,they have reproduced the complete book and tables there. I've that site bookmarked,a lot of reading for sure. Dave
  19. Timboat,Lees states in his Masting and Rigging book that viols were not used on ships below 36 guns. Blandford was a 20 gun ship. It's probable/possible that the Anchor Cable was led straight to the Capstan as their heaviest anchor was only 23 cwt according to Steel. Dave
  20. Hi Tom, This is from Steels elements of Standing and Running Rigging for a 50 Gun Ship fore Staysail :- Staysail halliard :- 3". Staysail sheets :- 3". Staysail tack :- 2". Staysail downhauler :- 2". Hope this helps with your decision,up to you now Dave
  21. I had the good luck to salvage over 100 pieces of European Boxwood from a container of "firewood" several years ago. Lengths ranging from 8" to 10" with diameters from .75" to 2.75". Have used some of it on my HMS Cheerful and intend to plank my current HMS Speedwell build with it. Not bothered about any wastage as it cost me nought Dave
  22. Good evening Maurice,you've made a really nice job on the clinker planking. Once faired and cleaned up with the copper bolts done she will look "the bees knees". Dave

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