davyboy
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Everything posted by davyboy
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Good evening Maurice,exemplary work from you. Kit bashing is certainly your forte. Just a thought but I'm a bit surprised that you didn't think of using braided steel wire as used for fishing traces for your tyes. It comes in various sizes/diameters relative to breaking strain and is quite flexible. Looking fwd to following your next little masterpiece. Regards, Dave
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Hi Voyageur, The top blade is for cutting softwood,hardwood and plastics. It's ok and cuts fast and well,downside it tends to leave toothmarks. The second is for cutting nonferrous metals,softwood,hardwood,chipboard,plastics and glassfibre items etc. Can't comment as I don't have this one. The last one cuts the same items as the previous. I use this for cutting Pearwood and European Boxwood,leaves a nice smooth finish. Hope this answers your question. Dave
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Good evening Maurice,very nice mods you've made to improve your model. Super job. Just catching up as I'd lost your build due to this new system,just my opinion but I think the old system was better,now I have to jump from century to century to find the builds I follow. C'est la vie. Kind regards, Dave
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Have to agree with you. They look awful,somewhat reminiscent of what one would see on a model of a WW1 battleship. Completely spoil the appearance of a really nice model. Dave
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Byrnes thickness sander vs Micro Mark's
davyboy replied to twintrow's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hi Jagger, I have the proxxon DH 40 thicknesser. A couple of answers for you. 1/10 of a mm,just under .004". Blades not sharpened they have cutting edges both sides. When blunt turn them,when that side is blunt change them,they only cost about $10 in your money. Access is fairly easy. I've had a little tearout probably due to grain orientation,cured that by turning the plank around. Can't comment on waste comparison as I don't have a thickness sander. For me the fact that virtually no dust produced (at least with Pear or European Boxwood) is a winner. Dave -
Good evening Maurice,looking good so far. I knew you couldn't resist a bit of kit bashing Keep up the good work. Dave
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Panart Royal Caroline Rigging Help
davyboy replied to lesser160's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Alan,Parrals or a Truss. Dave -
Newbie Keel Problem
davyboy replied to Jim in KC's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hi Jim, FWIW,I have had warped 1/4" ply. What I did was draw a straight line on the build board,draw lines 1/2 the ply thickness either side of this line. Glued small wood blocks on these lines and slotted the ply in there then screwed angle brackets to the board at each end of the false keel to keep it vertical. Glued and clamped blocks between the bulkhead slots,next day a perfectly straight keel. No need to faff about wetting ,steaming etc which may not work anyway. Dave -
I had the same problem with a Cruiser kit I bought some years ago. Most of the walnut was rubbish,I just bought replacement wood from a modelshop here. My reasoning being I would maybe have been sent more of the same. After this I went into scratch building,once bitten twice shy so to speak and much more satisfying. Dave
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Hi Termi, There was no ship named HMS Neptune at the battle of La Hogue in 1692. If that is what is written on the kit box it's pure fiction I'm afraid,nor was there ever a 3rd or 4th rate named Neptune. The second rate HMS Neptune was at the battle of Barfleur not La Hogue. In any case,no two ships with the same name would be serving in the Royal Navy at the same time. I know what you mean about kit plans being "a little off". When you come to mast and rig her I recommend R.C. Andersons' 17th Century Rigging or his Rigging of Ships in the days of the Spritsail Topmast 1600 to 1720. These can usually be found online on Abe Books or Amazon,not expensive. Anyway,I'm just being pedantic I guess Enjoy your build. Dave
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Hi Termi, This model should turn out to be a nice representation of a late 17th century 4th rate. However HMS Neptune of this period was a 90 gun 2nd rate launched in 1683. Later sailing warships bearing this name were all 1st and 2nd rates. The name given to this model is fictitious,not unusual for European kit manufacturers back in the day. Enjoy your build. Dave
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Hi Malas,the wood caps (AKA trucks) on Mast tops were fitted with a sheave or sheaves for Flag or Pennant halliards. Perhaps if you said which masts,Lower,Topmasts or Topgallants you refer to may help with getting some answers If you are building a kit do a search on the forum,you might get lucky finding a build log there. Dave
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Speedwell of 1752; a work in progress
davyboy replied to druxey's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Good evening Greg, That's a bit of a disappointment that you wont be producing cast carvings. I'd have certainly bought a set for my POB version of Speedwell. Guess my model will have to be undecorated,I couldn't carve like that if my life depended on it. I may try to do a bodge job tho'. Dave -
Hi Jim,there is a mention of of these pumps for deck washing in Laverys' Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War page 79. They were fitted to all 2 and 3 deck ships and were introduced in 1770. The inlets were 3 feet below the waterline,one per side. He doesn't state where they were fitted though. Midships would be my guess. It was doing repairs to one of these which caused the sinking of the Royal George in 1782. Hope this may be of help to you. Last time I was in Edinburgh half the streets were being dug up for tramlines. Dave
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Rudder pintle and gudgeon straps I would say,certainly required when I scratch built my Cheerful. Dave
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Hi David, You may find this of interest :- Google The Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship. This will take you to the website of The San Francisco Maritime Park Association, there they have Steeles' work. You want the asterisked chapters of 208,209,210 and 211,numbered drawings and names of the numbered rigging and sail items are there. Should be of great assistance to you. OK, these appertain to a 20 gun ship but the names are the same for all ships. This book covers everything as the title says. A lot of reading there to keep you out of mischief for a while Dave
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Hi David,definitely do it again,that deadeye gap does not look good. Anyway,it will give you some practice There are a couple of books on rigging that I recommend to you. James Lees Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860 and Karl Heinz Marquardts' Eighteenth Century Rigs and Rigging. Second hand online booksellers usually have them in stock. Either is worth having,the first being the best. Dave
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Hi David, The distance between deadeyes should be appproximately 3 times the diameter of a deadeye. Dave
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Good evening Maurice,you have made a beautiful job on your Alert. All your research has indeed paid dividends. I look forward to following your next build,another Cutter or something more exotic I've just spent much of the past week building a Capstan for my Speedwell,had a pig of a job making the spindle. I don't have a lathe so had to make do with using dowel,no choice. However much scraping and sanding I eventually got a passable round to build upon. There are a surprising number of parts to make if you count all the wood parts never mind all the other things,bolts,pawls etc. The ten bars I'll leave 'til much later. Regards, Dave
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Hi David, Skip what is in the instructions and make them as I wrote as that is the correct method. It's also easier and neater,you would have 8 loops to make taking more space on the masthead. I do my shroud siezing like Pat says around a suitable sized dowel. I thread a needle with the siezing line and pass it through one of the legs at the top then take around ten turns downwards about both legs. I then pass the thread between the legs at one end of the siezing then over the siezing and through between the other legs doing so 2 or 3 times. Finally pass the needle & thread through the middle of that,apply some glue (not CA) when dry clip off. You're then good to go. This last bit sounds complicated but is dead easy to do. Dave
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Hi David, I assume you are referring to the shrouds. These were made up in pairs by doubling a suitable length of rope leaving enough lenght to tie in the deadeyes. The centre portion was normally served then the two legs lashed together leaving a loop sufficient to fit over the mast head. They were always fitted in the following sequence :- first pair starboard,second pair port,third pair starboard and so on. Hope this answers your query,have fun. Dave
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Mark,if you have a copy of Marquardts' Eighteenth Century Rigs & Rigging Davis's "The Proportion of the Rigging" tables are printed in the appendix section pages 307 to 328. If you don't have a copy maybe your local Library could help. Hope this may be of help to you. Dave
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LOL,when I lived in Northumberland many years ago it was called "newkie broon" or more usually "Lunatic Soup". Visited the Scottish and Newcastle brewery once and looked inside a vat of the brew fermenting,80 odd thousand gallons of it 😵 😵 Heady stuff. Dave
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Hi Wahka, Many builders change the 2nd planking for another wood. Pear is indeed an excellent planking timber and readily available in Europe in sheets or milled planks and not too expensive. It also has very little grain showing. Cherry and Maple are also suitable timbers. As far as historically incorrect goes most period ships were planked with oak which is not really suitable for modelling purposes at all. BTW,there is no such thing as stupid questions on MSW,that's how we all learn "how to do it" correctly Kind regards, Dave
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That is an interesting painting but I suspect that they were carrying out some repair work on the hull. Not only did coppering prevent a shipworm infestation but also prevented the growth of various types of marine vegetation. Copper is I believe poisonous to plants. Dave
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