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davyboy

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Everything posted by davyboy

  1. Hi Vossie, I had the same problem on my HMS Cheerful and I pinned mine which worked a treat. Or you could try some rapid curing epoxy resin which will adhere to brass providing you roughly score the inner face. Lovely job your making of this build 👍 Dave
  2. Bill, Not if you install an Adblocker. I did and never see any ads. Dave
  3. Hi Shipscat, I am British and also an ex serviceman so I reckon I can make a one line comment if I wish. And what I said is in the main true. Incompetent General Staff Officers had much to do with the many debacles including Gallipoli in WW 1. Donkeys adequately sums many of them up. My apologies to Vegaskip for posting this in his thread. Dave
  4. Hi Jim,you might consider using Birch,It's light coloured with little grain. I used it for the deck planking on my Cheerful and am well pleased with the result. Dave
  5. Good evening B.E. She's looking very nice indeed. Do you intend to make the Lower Mast,Topmast and the two Yards to display in front her alongside the Bowsprit you have already there ? I had a good grumble earlier today dozy beggar that I am I noticed that I'd run the Topsail lifts wrong,they should run down between the Topmast Shrouds. Have to replace them as I had to cut them. Not a big deal as I'll just slip the footrope eyes off the yardarms and rig the replacements. #### happens. Hope you're having better weather than us. It's p'd down nonstop since I got up this morning. Dave
  6. Mike, Google this :- the elements and practice of rigging and seamanship. All you will ever need to know is in there,you'll have to scroll down a fair way to reach the part about tactics. That part starts on page 347. This online version was placed by The San Francisco maritime national park association and is a direct copy of the 1794 edition of Steels' book. Dave
  7. Nice job on the "ground tackle" B.E. Have to agree that the anchor sizes look good. I made mine up using Caldercraft anchors of approx the same size Chuck shows on the plan. The stocks I made as shown in Laverys' book from Box and pinned them with 1mm copper wire which I blackened. Like your idea of using heatshrink for the stock bands,I used black card which is a hastle. Must remember that. My replacement Red Ensign came in the post a couple of days ago and my Speedwell book (hopefully) is on its way from the (far side of the world ) Having a little break just now,my left hand is giving me a hard time,sods law as I'm left handed Just a question but why have you shown the anchor cables running straight off the windlass top to the stowage holes in the gratings ? I would have thought they should sag onto and run along the deck 3 feet or so aft of the windlass. Your "normans"have reminded me I've yet to make windlass levers. Regards, Dave
  8. Hi Jim, There is a huge difference,Basswood aka Limewood is fairly soft and it's difficult to get a sharp edge on it. It'sOK if you're double planking. European Boxwood (Buxus Sempervirens) is very hard,hard to find and expensive. Most of the references on the forum to Boxwood are refering to Castello which is a South American timber misnamed Boxwood,very nice timber but not the real thing. Also hard to find in Europe and not cheap. AFAIK most kits supply Walnut for planking etc,OK but grainy. Personally I use Pearwood,nice colour and showing little grain,also readily available in Europe I can't speak for UK timber dealers as I buy my wood from a German dealer. However I'm sure there are UK timber dealers around on the internet. Maybe some of the British members could help there. TIP :- If you wish to buy wood in,don't buy strips. Buy sheets and cut your own planks etc from them,much cheaper. Dave
  9. Hi RPaul, I have an Einhell BT-SB 200 bandsaw. Never had any problem with it,have cut 1" thick European Boxwood among other timbers on it. Also used it to cut the false keel and bulkheads for a scratch build,much easier,faster and vibration free than using a fretsaw. Dave
  10. John,the phrase "Lions led by Donkeys"comes to mind. Dave
  11. Good evening B.E. She looks very nice indeed,a credit to your skills. I'm still waiting for my replacement Ensign (red) from CMB and currently making up rope coils to hang on the belaying pins and cleats. Then a 3 and a 1/2 year scratch build is finished. Regards, Dave
  12. "The hold is copper clad" !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣 Dave
  13. Good evening B.E. The problem with the Port Bowchaser is that it also will smash into the Bowsprit on recoil. Not a good idea I would say,I checked this out just to see. Moving the Windlass aft would certainly not prevent this occuring. However,I agree it is aesthetically pleasing to have a gun in the chase port. I ordered an Ensign last week for my model from CMB,the packet arrived yesterday. They'd sent the wrong size,20mm and the invoice for the size I'd ordered. Not a happy bunny I only have to make up rope coils and fit the Ensign when the correct replacement arrives then my model is finished after three and a half years work , Have to still make a stand for it though. 11 models displayed and Cheerful will be #12,no wonder you're thinking of not rigging her Mine is only my second build and first scratch build. I got into this hobby rather late in life (67). I rather fancy building David Antscherl and Greg Herberts Speedwell next,their book has 3 plans at 1:48th. I'd build the POB version as I don't have enough experience to do POF. Regards, Dave
  14. I not only forget peoples names now. I often go to another room to fetch something and can't remember what it was when I get there Dave
  15. Hi Keith,you have made a top notch job of the planking 👍 As you're a bit worried about possible splintering damage when drilling the portholes may I make a suggestion. Drill undersize holes first then open them out with a tapered reamer to the size required. I did this when drilling the hawse holes on my Cheerful,worked a treat,no splintering. Love your metalwork,wish I could do that. Dave
  16. Hi, Mast rake was variable. Whatever was shown on the design plan could be and likely would be altered. The mast steps had fore/aft space for fitting chocks or wedges which allowed the mast rake to be altered. Most new Captains of a ship would have this done to their preference on taking command. Have to say you are the Captain of this ship up to you I guess. Is there nothing indicated on the plan that woud give you a rough idea of mast angles ? 'Bint',I haven't heard that word since I was in the Middle East over 50 years ago. Ah memories Dave
  17. Good evening B.E. Nice job on the Bowsprit. I also fitted the fid all the way through,one of those tiny files I sent you did the job. Currently re-rigging the Bobstay tackle,caught the damned Bobstay earlier and have to replace the tackle rope I'll also have to re-do some ratlines,dropped a pair of tweezers which hit their target and of course a few ratlines look like a dogs hind leg now. Oh well,nuff said. I do hope you will be masting and rigging her. After the super job you made of your HMS Pegasus it should be a doddle for you. Only one Mast regards, Dave
  18. Hi Marco,that's strange. I bought scale rope from him around 4 weeks ago. Dave
  19. Good evening B.E. My side tackles look just like your example. I too think mine don't look very nice either. As regarding the #1 port gunport,I don't think a gun could be served there properly,not enough space for the recoil nor reload. None of the NMM and the Science museum models have guns in the forward gunports. You might get away with a Carronade though in the Port gunport if you so fancy. I think my 4 swivel guns look fine in the forward area Finally got round to making the ropework for the served Anchor buoys. A most onerous task,believe me when I say I'd rather rig a 1000 ratlines Made the rings for the ropes by winding thread 7 or 8 times around a drill shank glueing as I did so,looks ok. Then it was just a case of adding the 4 ropes to each one then threading them under the other then siezing. All done in dark brown thread so no tarry paint needed. Regards, Dave
  20. Hi Marco,you can have a look at this website :- www.modellbau-takelgarn.de He supplies a range of scale ropes in cotton beige and tan,LH and RH lay in many different diameters. I've bought from him and was happy with his product. He will I'm sure make you up some tightly stranded rope if you ask him. He is ok with emails in English. Dave
  21. Good evening B.E. Looking good as always. I had to wrap rope around my Tiller handle. Cracked the damn thing when trial fitting it into the rudder head,it glued up ok but I could see the join.so it got wrapped. Looks ok anyway. Would there have been a spectacle plate fitted or maybe not ? I haven't a clue,however I will fix a "chock"under the top hinge to prevent unshipping. I've served my anchor buoys and now will try to hopefully make a decent job of the ropework. Have a nice week. Dave
  22. Good evening B.E. Very well done indeed 👍 I'll bet you'll be glad when the last four are done regards, Dave
  23. Hi Stergious, I now see that pin #19 is shown on your deck rigging plan. However you had marked #19 as being just below the boom which I had assumed was a cleat. This can be seen as one of three on the Mizzen mast. The boom topping lift was doubled (clove hitched) around the boom as Petersson shows. Each side leads through blocks as he shows fitted with a tackle and belayed. I would suggest you fit eyebolts on the deck below pins #19,hook the tackle there and belay the hauling end of the tackle to the pins. Up to you. Dave
  24. Hi Stergious,rig your boom topping lift (L) as shown in Peterssons book. #19 is a cleat which I can see in your photo,there should be one on the other side of the mast also. The bottom end of the tackles on your plan appear to be hooked to eyebolts in the deck and NOT to the Mizzen channels as seen in Petersson. I expect where they are will be shown on your plan. Where your question mark is would be a good bet I would say. The blocks you marked A and B are fitted on each side of the boom. They are the boom sheet blocks,correctly shown aft of the cleats. Where these tackles are hooked and belayed should be on your rigging plans. Unfortunately Petersson shows a different arrangement. Hope this helps, Dave
  25. Hi Ferit, go back to page 3 on this the masting,rigging and sails section. The third thread down is the question I asked last October. 4 replies,1 diagram from Levers' book,a photo of an actual mast cap/truck and a photo of one of Doris's Ship model caps. Your two pics show the flag halliard going through a hole over the top of the mast cap then down through another hole. There should be a sheave fitted there,otherwise the flag halliard would be quickly worn out. Hopefully that will answer your question. Regards, Dave

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