davyboy
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Everything posted by davyboy
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Hi Allen,top of this page,planking tutorials etc. All you wish to know is there. Normally the Wales are fitted first. Dave
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Hi,you must have got the last one. Just checked and the item is out of stock according to their page. Dave.
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Hi Ron,if you wish to add the buntlines just put a knot in the line and pull it up to the block. Job done,this can be seen on contempory models which have no sails fitted. This was also done for the leech lines. Dave
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Very nice planking Maurice,bet you're happy with that hurdle cleared. I've started milling Buxus for my Speedwell planking above the wales,much still to do there,especially the short ones between the sweep and gun ports. Still,it keeps me out of mischief Keep up the good work, Dave
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- muirneag
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Hi Alan,good luck with your eye op tomorrow,I had both eyes done 2 years past February. What a difference,I'd no idea I had cataracts,just thought it was old age Dave
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Hi RussR,the Proxxon 50mm blade #28020 has 100 teeth and is 0,5mm thick. It will do the job perfectly,I use one for plank cutting everytime. Dave
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Hi Mark,I've been following your build since you started.Exemplary carpentry and dedication indeed. A little fix you may find useful when drilling hawse holes. Drill about 2/3 of the diameter required then open out the holes using a tapered reamer of the req size then ream from the other end.Then run a straight reamer through to remove the slight constriction in the holes centre. You wont get any tearout and really smooth hawse holes,no filing marks. Just a thought,anyway it worked for me. Dave
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Good evening Maurice,exemplary work from you. Kit bashing is certainly your forte. Just a thought but I'm a bit surprised that you didn't think of using braided steel wire as used for fishing traces for your tyes. It comes in various sizes/diameters relative to breaking strain and is quite flexible. Looking fwd to following your next little masterpiece. Regards, Dave
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- lady eleanor
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Hi Voyageur, The top blade is for cutting softwood,hardwood and plastics. It's ok and cuts fast and well,downside it tends to leave toothmarks. The second is for cutting nonferrous metals,softwood,hardwood,chipboard,plastics and glassfibre items etc. Can't comment as I don't have this one. The last one cuts the same items as the previous. I use this for cutting Pearwood and European Boxwood,leaves a nice smooth finish. Hope this answers your question. Dave
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Good evening Maurice,very nice mods you've made to improve your model. Super job. Just catching up as I'd lost your build due to this new system,just my opinion but I think the old system was better,now I have to jump from century to century to find the builds I follow. C'est la vie. Kind regards, Dave
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- lady eleanor
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Have to agree with you. They look awful,somewhat reminiscent of what one would see on a model of a WW1 battleship. Completely spoil the appearance of a really nice model. Dave
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Byrnes thickness sander vs Micro Mark's
davyboy replied to twintrow's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hi Jagger, I have the proxxon DH 40 thicknesser. A couple of answers for you. 1/10 of a mm,just under .004". Blades not sharpened they have cutting edges both sides. When blunt turn them,when that side is blunt change them,they only cost about $10 in your money. Access is fairly easy. I've had a little tearout probably due to grain orientation,cured that by turning the plank around. Can't comment on waste comparison as I don't have a thickness sander. For me the fact that virtually no dust produced (at least with Pear or European Boxwood) is a winner. Dave -
Good evening Maurice,looking good so far. I knew you couldn't resist a bit of kit bashing Keep up the good work. Dave
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Panart Royal Caroline Rigging Help
davyboy replied to lesser160's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Alan,Parrals or a Truss. Dave -
Newbie Keel Problem
davyboy replied to Jim in KC's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hi Jim, FWIW,I have had warped 1/4" ply. What I did was draw a straight line on the build board,draw lines 1/2 the ply thickness either side of this line. Glued small wood blocks on these lines and slotted the ply in there then screwed angle brackets to the board at each end of the false keel to keep it vertical. Glued and clamped blocks between the bulkhead slots,next day a perfectly straight keel. No need to faff about wetting ,steaming etc which may not work anyway. Dave -
I had the same problem with a Cruiser kit I bought some years ago. Most of the walnut was rubbish,I just bought replacement wood from a modelshop here. My reasoning being I would maybe have been sent more of the same. After this I went into scratch building,once bitten twice shy so to speak and much more satisfying. Dave
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Hi Termi, There was no ship named HMS Neptune at the battle of La Hogue in 1692. If that is what is written on the kit box it's pure fiction I'm afraid,nor was there ever a 3rd or 4th rate named Neptune. The second rate HMS Neptune was at the battle of Barfleur not La Hogue. In any case,no two ships with the same name would be serving in the Royal Navy at the same time. I know what you mean about kit plans being "a little off". When you come to mast and rig her I recommend R.C. Andersons' 17th Century Rigging or his Rigging of Ships in the days of the Spritsail Topmast 1600 to 1720. These can usually be found online on Abe Books or Amazon,not expensive. Anyway,I'm just being pedantic I guess Enjoy your build. Dave
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Hi Termi, This model should turn out to be a nice representation of a late 17th century 4th rate. However HMS Neptune of this period was a 90 gun 2nd rate launched in 1683. Later sailing warships bearing this name were all 1st and 2nd rates. The name given to this model is fictitious,not unusual for European kit manufacturers back in the day. Enjoy your build. Dave
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Hi Malas,the wood caps (AKA trucks) on Mast tops were fitted with a sheave or sheaves for Flag or Pennant halliards. Perhaps if you said which masts,Lower,Topmasts or Topgallants you refer to may help with getting some answers If you are building a kit do a search on the forum,you might get lucky finding a build log there. Dave
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Good evening Greg, That's a bit of a disappointment that you wont be producing cast carvings. I'd have certainly bought a set for my POB version of Speedwell. Guess my model will have to be undecorated,I couldn't carve like that if my life depended on it. I may try to do a bodge job tho'. Dave
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Hi Jim,there is a mention of of these pumps for deck washing in Laverys' Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War page 79. They were fitted to all 2 and 3 deck ships and were introduced in 1770. The inlets were 3 feet below the waterline,one per side. He doesn't state where they were fitted though. Midships would be my guess. It was doing repairs to one of these which caused the sinking of the Royal George in 1782. Hope this may be of help to you. Last time I was in Edinburgh half the streets were being dug up for tramlines. Dave
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Rudder pintle and gudgeon straps I would say,certainly required when I scratch built my Cheerful. Dave
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Hi David, You may find this of interest :- Google The Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship. This will take you to the website of The San Francisco Maritime Park Association, there they have Steeles' work. You want the asterisked chapters of 208,209,210 and 211,numbered drawings and names of the numbered rigging and sail items are there. Should be of great assistance to you. OK, these appertain to a 20 gun ship but the names are the same for all ships. This book covers everything as the title says. A lot of reading there to keep you out of mischief for a while Dave
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Hi David,definitely do it again,that deadeye gap does not look good. Anyway,it will give you some practice There are a couple of books on rigging that I recommend to you. James Lees Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860 and Karl Heinz Marquardts' Eighteenth Century Rigs and Rigging. Second hand online booksellers usually have them in stock. Either is worth having,the first being the best. Dave
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Hi David, The distance between deadeyes should be appproximately 3 times the diameter of a deadeye. Dave
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