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davyboy
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Hi Maurice, As usual lovely workmanship. Great job on the replacement catheads and sheaves,I like the idea of using plastic rod for them. Wish I'd thought of that on my Cheerful,I used dowels for all the sheaves. A pita as the smallest ones kept splitting when drilling . Regards, Dave
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Hi Mark, When I made a 90° scraper from a Stanley blade to cut the rebate on my current build I did the following. On the non cutting edges I used a small 1000 grit sharpening stone to round them down. Worked a treat,no marks on the keel. Dave
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Good evening Maurice,a very nice job on the "white stuff". Looking very good,I'm pretty sure the original waterline looked the same. Dave
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Hi Tom, Google The Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship. This will take you to the site of the San Francisco Maritime National Park Association,they have reproduced the complete book and tables there. I've that site bookmarked,a lot of reading for sure. Dave
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Timboat,Lees states in his Masting and Rigging book that viols were not used on ships below 36 guns. Blandford was a 20 gun ship. It's probable/possible that the Anchor Cable was led straight to the Capstan as their heaviest anchor was only 23 cwt according to Steel. Dave
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Hi Tom, This is from Steels elements of Standing and Running Rigging for a 50 Gun Ship fore Staysail :- Staysail halliard :- 3". Staysail sheets :- 3". Staysail tack :- 2". Staysail downhauler :- 2". Hope this helps with your decision,up to you now Dave
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Hi, Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but that model is of really no value. Tens of thousands of these type of "ornaments" have been made over the years,usually sold in souvenir shops etc. Dave
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I had the good luck to salvage over 100 pieces of European Boxwood from a container of "firewood" several years ago. Lengths ranging from 8" to 10" with diameters from .75" to 2.75". Have used some of it on my HMS Cheerful and intend to plank my current HMS Speedwell build with it. Not bothered about any wastage as it cost me nought Dave
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Good evening Maurice,you've made a really nice job on the clinker planking. Once faired and cleaned up with the copper bolts done she will look "the bees knees". Dave
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Hi Greg, The binnacles look very nice indeed,hopefully a plan will be included in Vol.2. I started on the POB version a couple of months ago,I've much to learn. This will be only my 3rd build the previous being a Caldercraft kit of HMS Cruizer followed by a 95% scratch build of Chucks' HMS Cheerful. I look forward to seeing what she will look like when David adds the carvings. He did say in some correspondence we had that there will probably be a set of cast carvings in the future. I hope so anyway. Kind regards,and I wish you a pleasant week. Dave
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Proxxon jigsaw or a scroll saw
davyboy replied to Edwardkenway's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I only have the small Proxxon scroll saw,hardly ever been used due to vibration. I cut the central spines and bulkheads (6.5mm birch ply) on my Cheerful and current POB scratch builds on my Einhell Bandsaw. No problems,no vibration and also quick and much cheaper than a big expensive scroll saw. Dave -
Hi Maurys,I can't believe there would be any acid content in brown wrapping paper. Not much use for wrapping things then is it ? Anyway,my mast hoops haven't rotted my mast yet Dave
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Hi Maurys,that's very labour intensive. Get a dowel of suitable diameter wrap it in clingfilm then glue several turns of brown wrapping paper around the dowel. When dry slide it off the dowel,you can then slice off the number of mast hoops you need,then give them a couple of coats of clear varnish or paint if required. That's how I made the mast hoops for my Cheerful build. Much easier and quicker than using wood shavings. Dave
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Good evening Maurice, That clinker planking is shaping up nicely,I'm certain the end result will be tip-top as normal. Had a problem with the aft bulkhead on Speedwell. The transom area has no instructions as to how one addresses the fashion pieces below the planked area. Just a note to round this area forward 4" (.084") Plenty of info for the POF version but not much use for the POB one. After some thought I made my fashion pieces from 3/16th pear and marked their placeon the bulkhead. Then I very carefully freehand milled out a 3/16th deep area to fit them. Worked fine and when the transom is planked and after fairing it will look very like the Cheerful transom. I hope Regards. Dave
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Hi Phil, Heres how I do it :- Get a suitable size of needle and pass one of your threads through the other. Then do the same by passing the other through the first. It should resemble then the lower example in your pic. The ends can then be served to the threads. If you're really fussy you can taper the fake splice by thinning the strands of the through piece to simulate the taper then serve and glue. Thats how I do cut splices on odd numbers of shrouds etc haven't had one pull apart yet. Hope this helps. Dave
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I made the mast hoops for my Cheerful by glueing turns of brown wrapping paper around a suitable diam dowel. When dry just pulled it off and cut off slices as required and gave them a couple of coats of matt laquer,job done and no messing about with wood shavings. I did of course wrap the dowel with some plastic first to prevent sticking. Dave
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Good evening Maurice, Excellent mod's there. You always make significant improvements to your kits,great stuff. I've finished the keel and stem assy for Speedwell (all 18 pieces) except for some "fine tuning" of the stem taper. Hopefully I will shortly have it fixed to the spine then it's bulkheads glued in followed by the dreaded fairing later this week. Regards, Dave
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Good evening Maurice, I like your idea of using the first planking as practice for the second planking,good thinking. Now that pic of your fish 'n' chips has made me very jealous,also the glass of Yorkshire Bitter I'm finding out there's much more to my Speedwell POB build than I first thought. The stem assy build up for instance has components of 3 different thicknesses,12",10" and 8",I now know that 2" at 1:48 is 0.041666",I called it 0.042" I'm not building for a Museum lol. My hat's off to folks that can build POF,that's way out of my depth I'm afraid. Regards, Dave
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Druxey,I assume (hopefully) that your research is for the second volume of your HMS Speedwell 1752. I wish you every success in this. I started on the POB version a couple of weeks ago. I've much to learn but looking forward to the challenge over the next few years. Dave
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Hi mispeltyoof. I built their Cruiser years ago,same problem. I made new masthead and bowsprit caps from the leftover material which the masthead caps were cut from. Did the same for the topmast caps,easy enough to cut a mortice in them. Be aware that the bowsprit cap should be perpendicular to the waterline not the bowsprit. (don't know if that's shown on your plans) The upper and lower faces should have the same angle as the bowsprit as should the hole for the jib boom Easy enough to cut a tenon on the bowsprit and a corresponding mortice in the cap. Don't forget to angle the bowsprit end to match,don't ask how I know that Dave
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I watched the documentary about this last Monday evening on a UK TV channel. Very interesting as was part 1 shown the previous week. They proved it was Greek by using a vacuum on the ROV to clear the sludge from the Rudder. The shape matched exactly that pictured on ancient Greek vases. They also found among other wrecks a sunken Roman ship laden to the "gunnels"with Amphorae. Dave
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Hi Bill,just for info. A Spanish galleon of 1588 would definitely not have chain anchor cables,they were a 19th century innovation. Dave
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Good evening Maurice, Looking good as usual. Enjoy your holiday and the Fish and Chips,something I really do miss living here. I'd give my eye teeth for a plate of fresh caught battered Cod and chunky Chips with brown sauce and vinegar. Steak and Kidney pie would also go down a treat. Dave
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Good evenjng Maurice, She looks very nice,her lovely lines are showing already. Rapid progress indeed. How do you find it working with 3mm MDF ? I've heard/read that the dust from it is very toxic due to the resin used in its manufacture. I have the bulkheads,false keel and the pear for the keel,stem and sternpost cut for my Speedwell but all have still to be sized correctly etc. Messy work which I do on the balcony as the missus would have a fit if I did it indoors. Regards, Dave
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Steven, Your second photo looks remarkably similar to a spritsail sheet block as fitted to English warships from the late 17th to mid 18th centuries. The drawings of these blocks in Lees Masting and Rigging book look almost identical. Just a thought but perhaps it had something to do with sail control. Dave
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