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davyboy

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  1. davyboy
    John,the phrase "Lions led by Donkeys"comes to mind. Dave
  2. davyboy
    Good evening B.E. She looks very nice indeed,a credit to your skills. I'm still waiting for my replacement Ensign (red) from CMB and currently making up rope coils to hang on the belaying pins and cleats. Then a 3 and a 1/2 year scratch build is finished. Regards, Dave
  3. davyboy
    Good evening B.E. The problem with the Port Bowchaser is that it also will smash into the Bowsprit on recoil. Not a good idea I would say,I checked this out just to see. Moving the Windlass aft would certainly not prevent this occuring. However,I agree it is aesthetically pleasing to have a gun in the chase port. I ordered an Ensign last week for my model from CMB,the packet arrived yesterday. They'd sent the wrong size,20mm and the invoice for the size I'd ordered. Not a happy bunny I only have to make up rope coils and fit the Ensign when the correct replacement arrives then my model is finished after three and a half years work , Have to still make a stand for it though. 11 models displayed and Cheerful will be #12,no wonder you're thinking of not rigging her Mine is only my second build and first scratch build. I got into this hobby rather late in life (67). I rather fancy building David Antscherl and Greg Herberts Speedwell next,their book has 3 plans at 1:48th. I'd build the POB version as I don't have enough experience to do POF. Regards, Dave
  4. davyboy
    Hi Keith,you have made a top notch job of the planking 👍 As you're a bit worried about possible splintering damage when drilling the portholes may I make a suggestion. Drill undersize holes first then open them out with a tapered reamer to the size required. I did this when drilling the hawse holes on my Cheerful,worked a treat,no splintering. Love your metalwork,wish I could do that. Dave
  5. davyboy
    Hi, Mast rake was variable. Whatever was shown on the design plan could be and likely would be altered. The mast steps had fore/aft space for fitting chocks or wedges which allowed the mast rake to be altered. Most new Captains of a ship would have this done to their preference on taking command. Have to say you are the Captain of this ship up to you I guess. Is there nothing indicated on the plan that woud give you a rough idea of mast angles ? 'Bint',I haven't heard that word since I was in the Middle East over 50 years ago. Ah memories Dave
  6. davyboy
    Good evening B.E. Nice job on the Bowsprit. I also fitted the fid all the way through,one of those tiny files I sent you did the job. Currently re-rigging the Bobstay tackle,caught the damned Bobstay earlier and have to replace the tackle rope I'll also have to re-do some ratlines,dropped a pair of tweezers which hit their target and of course a few ratlines look like a dogs hind leg now. Oh well,nuff said. I do hope you will be masting and rigging her. After the super job you made of your HMS Pegasus it should be a doddle for you. Only one Mast regards, Dave
  7. davyboy
    Hi Marco,that's strange. I bought scale rope from him around 4 weeks ago. Dave
  8. davyboy
    Good evening B.E. My side tackles look just like your example. I too think mine don't look very nice either. As regarding the #1 port gunport,I don't think a gun could be served there properly,not enough space for the recoil nor reload. None of the NMM and the Science museum models have guns in the forward gunports. You might get away with a Carronade though in the Port gunport if you so fancy. I think my 4 swivel guns look fine in the forward area Finally got round to making the ropework for the served Anchor buoys. A most onerous task,believe me when I say I'd rather rig a 1000 ratlines Made the rings for the ropes by winding thread 7 or 8 times around a drill shank glueing as I did so,looks ok. Then it was just a case of adding the 4 ropes to each one then threading them under the other then siezing. All done in dark brown thread so no tarry paint needed. Regards, Dave
  9. davyboy
    Hi Marco,you can have a look at this website :- www.modellbau-takelgarn.de He supplies a range of scale ropes in cotton beige and tan,LH and RH lay in many different diameters. I've bought from him and was happy with his product. He will I'm sure make you up some tightly stranded rope if you ask him. He is ok with emails in English. Dave
  10. davyboy
    Good evening B.E. Looking good as always. I had to wrap rope around my Tiller handle. Cracked the damn thing when trial fitting it into the rudder head,it glued up ok but I could see the join.so it got wrapped. Looks ok anyway. Would there have been a spectacle plate fitted or maybe not ? I haven't a clue,however I will fix a "chock"under the top hinge to prevent unshipping. I've served my anchor buoys and now will try to hopefully make a decent job of the ropework. Have a nice week. Dave
  11. davyboy
    Good evening B.E. Very well done indeed 👍 I'll bet you'll be glad when the last four are done regards, Dave
  12. davyboy
    Hi Stergious, I now see that pin #19 is shown on your deck rigging plan. However you had marked #19 as being just below the boom which I had assumed was a cleat. This can be seen as one of three on the Mizzen mast. The boom topping lift was doubled (clove hitched) around the boom as Petersson shows. Each side leads through blocks as he shows fitted with a tackle and belayed. I would suggest you fit eyebolts on the deck below pins #19,hook the tackle there and belay the hauling end of the tackle to the pins. Up to you. Dave
  13. davyboy
    Hi Stergious,rig your boom topping lift (L) as shown in Peterssons book. #19 is a cleat which I can see in your photo,there should be one on the other side of the mast also. The bottom end of the tackles on your plan appear to be hooked to eyebolts in the deck and NOT to the Mizzen channels as seen in Petersson. I expect where they are will be shown on your plan. Where your question mark is would be a good bet I would say. The blocks you marked A and B are fitted on each side of the boom. They are the boom sheet blocks,correctly shown aft of the cleats. Where these tackles are hooked and belayed should be on your rigging plans. Unfortunately Petersson shows a different arrangement. Hope this helps, Dave
  14. davyboy
    Hi Ferit, go back to page 3 on this the masting,rigging and sails section. The third thread down is the question I asked last October. 4 replies,1 diagram from Levers' book,a photo of an actual mast cap/truck and a photo of one of Doris's Ship model caps. Your two pics show the flag halliard going through a hole over the top of the mast cap then down through another hole. There should be a sheave fitted there,otherwise the flag halliard would be quickly worn out. Hopefully that will answer your question. Regards, Dave
  15. davyboy
    Good evening B.E. To coin a quotation from an old,old film. "You're a better man than I am Gunga Din". I did fit a key bolt but trying to make a key with chain to fit was a no go,for me anyway. Full marks for your one only another 11 guns to do,have fun Got the Catblocks stropped with the brass ok. I rivetted the hooks in,they look quite good after all. Made up my anchor cables and attached them to the Anchors. For info,you'll need about a half metre of rope for each one,that gives you enough length to play with. I'm still thinking about those Anchor Buoys,get round to it eventually. Serving them is not a problem it's the slings or rather the rope bands that the slings are attached to. Maybe some blackened copper or brass wire rings may work. Oh dear,decisions,decisions. BTW,were they painted,tarred or what ? Regards, Dave
  16. davyboy
    Ferit, Why would you make hanging blocks for this ? The flag halliard sheave is fitted into the Mast Cap. Just drill two holes close together in the mast cap running fore and aft to simulate a sheave. Dave
  17. davyboy
    Hi Tony,I agree with wefalks comment. This pattern of swivel gun called Falconets were at least in English navy ships obsolete by the early 17th century. I would imagine the French navy was much the same. Dave
  18. davyboy
    Hello Ferit, I asked this question last year. The general consensus of opinion was that the flag halliard sheave or sheaves usually run fore and aft either side of the mast. Dave
  19. davyboy
    Very nicely done B.E. I drilled through each carriage bed then placing the carriage centred at a gunport then drilled through into the deck. I wrote the position under each carriage Pt 1,Stbd 1 and so on to ensure the completed units went into the right place. I kicked the idea of using the copper wire stropping for the Catblocks into touch,it looked awful. Made some from brass sheet a la the drawing in Lees,much better looking,a PITA to make though. Also made the anchor buoys,having a real problem making up the rope work That's on hold for the time being. Have a nice weekend,regards. Dave
  20. davyboy
    Hi Stergious,it's standing rigging. That line is one of the topmast backstays. Dave
  21. davyboy
    Hi B.E. These chainplates were a bit of a pain to make,I had to remake a couple of mine which were not up to scratch. Yours look very good indeed. Will start making my cat blocks this weekend,I have some .020" x .040" copper wire. Just about the right size for the "iron strapping",I hope. regards, Dave
  22. davyboy
    Fred,dip the end of the thread in cyano glue then cut diagonaly across the glued part. You then have a needle point,goes through evey time. Dave
  23. davyboy
    Chris,you can contact by email in English. That is what I did,made my order/transaction with no problem. (Google translate works fine ) I'm a Scot by the way,my German is not good enough for everything. Dave
  24. davyboy
    Chris, Have a look at www.massiv-holz-werkstatt.de Frank Horschigs website. Example prices for Beech,Cherry and Pear sheets 1000mm x 100mm x 1mm are €3.10,€5.00 and €7.20 respectively. Cheaper to buy sheets and mill your own strips He has a large selection of other wood and also does strips. I buy my wood from him,good quality timber. Hope this helps, Dave
  25. davyboy
    Hi B.E. I too thought that about the outboard steps so I just added a fourth. The 5/8" gap to the top rail is 2'6" in reality. They must have had very long legs considering the average height then was around 5'6" I've just finished making the stocks for my anchors. Went into Laverys' Arming and Fitting to find out the bolting patterns for them. Read a bit further on and he says that the round Crown Anchor and Arms shown on my copy of Chucks plan were not around in 1806. The first of this pattern was not made until 1813 and by 1815 only 25 had been made and 14 issued,probably starting with 1st rates. I also had a look in Steel but no mention of a new pattern there. Up to you of course,just thought I'd let you know. Regards, Dave

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