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davyboy

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Everything posted by davyboy

  1. davyboy
    Hi, Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but that model is of really no value. Tens of thousands of these type of "ornaments" have been made over the years,usually sold in souvenir shops etc. Dave
  2. davyboy
    I had the good luck to salvage over 100 pieces of European Boxwood from a container of "firewood" several years ago. Lengths ranging from 8" to 10" with diameters from .75" to 2.75". Have used some of it on my HMS Cheerful and intend to plank my current HMS Speedwell build with it. Not bothered about any wastage as it cost me nought Dave
  3. davyboy
    Good evening Maurice,you've made a really nice job on the clinker planking. Once faired and cleaned up with the copper bolts done she will look "the bees knees". Dave
  4. davyboy
    Hi Greg, The binnacles look very nice indeed,hopefully a plan will be included in Vol.2. I started on the POB version a couple of months ago,I've much to learn. This will be only my 3rd build the previous being a Caldercraft kit of HMS Cruizer followed by a 95% scratch build of Chucks' HMS Cheerful. I look forward to seeing what she will look like when David adds the carvings. He did say in some correspondence we had that there will probably be a set of cast carvings in the future. I hope so anyway. Kind regards,and I wish you a pleasant week. Dave
  5. davyboy
    I only have the small Proxxon scroll saw,hardly ever been used due to vibration. I cut the central spines and bulkheads (6.5mm birch ply) on my Cheerful and current POB scratch builds on my Einhell Bandsaw. No problems,no vibration and also quick and much cheaper than a big expensive scroll saw. Dave
  6. davyboy
    Hi Maurys,I can't believe there would be any acid content in brown wrapping paper. Not much use for wrapping things then is it ? Anyway,my mast hoops haven't rotted my mast yet Dave
  7. davyboy
    Hi Maurys,that's very labour intensive. Get a dowel of suitable diameter wrap it in clingfilm then glue several turns of brown wrapping paper around the dowel. When dry slide it off the dowel,you can then slice off the number of mast hoops you need,then give them a couple of coats of clear varnish or paint if required. That's how I made the mast hoops for my Cheerful build. Much easier and quicker than using wood shavings. Dave
  8. davyboy
    Good evening Maurice, That clinker planking is shaping up nicely,I'm certain the end result will be tip-top as normal. Had a problem with the aft bulkhead on Speedwell. The transom area has no instructions as to how one addresses the fashion pieces below the planked area. Just a note to round this area forward 4" (.084") Plenty of info for the POF version but not much use for the POB one. After some thought I made my fashion pieces from 3/16th pear and marked their placeon the bulkhead. Then I very carefully freehand milled out a 3/16th deep area to fit them. Worked fine and when the transom is planked and after fairing it will look very like the Cheerful transom. I hope Regards. Dave
  9. davyboy
    Hi Phil, Heres how I do it :- Get a suitable size of needle and pass one of your threads through the other. Then do the same by passing the other through the first. It should resemble then the lower example in your pic. The ends can then be served to the threads. If you're really fussy you can taper the fake splice by thinning the strands of the through piece to simulate the taper then serve and glue. Thats how I do cut splices on odd numbers of shrouds etc haven't had one pull apart yet. Hope this helps. Dave
  10. davyboy
    I made the mast hoops for my Cheerful by glueing turns of brown wrapping paper around a suitable diam dowel. When dry just pulled it off and cut off slices as required and gave them a couple of coats of matt laquer,job done and no messing about with wood shavings. I did of course wrap the dowel with some plastic first to prevent sticking. Dave
  11. davyboy
    Good evening Maurice, Excellent mod's there. You always make significant improvements to your kits,great stuff. I've finished the keel and stem assy for Speedwell (all 18 pieces) except for some "fine tuning" of the stem taper. Hopefully I will shortly have it fixed to the spine then it's bulkheads glued in followed by the dreaded fairing later this week. Regards, Dave
  12. davyboy
    Good evening Maurice, I like your idea of using the first planking as practice for the second planking,good thinking. Now that pic of your fish 'n' chips has made me very jealous,also the glass of Yorkshire Bitter I'm finding out there's much more to my Speedwell POB build than I first thought. The stem assy build up for instance has components of 3 different thicknesses,12",10" and 8",I now know that 2" at 1:48 is 0.041666",I called it 0.042" I'm not building for a Museum lol. My hat's off to folks that can build POF,that's way out of my depth I'm afraid. Regards, Dave
  13. davyboy
    Druxey,I assume (hopefully) that your research is for the second volume of your HMS Speedwell 1752. I wish you every success in this. I started on the POB version a couple of weeks ago. I've much to learn but looking forward to the challenge over the next few years. Dave
  14. davyboy
    Hi mispeltyoof. I built their Cruiser years ago,same problem. I made new masthead and bowsprit caps from the leftover material which the masthead caps were cut from. Did the same for the topmast caps,easy enough to cut a mortice in them. Be aware that the bowsprit cap should be perpendicular to the waterline not the bowsprit. (don't know if that's shown on your plans) The upper and lower faces should have the same angle as the bowsprit as should the hole for the jib boom Easy enough to cut a tenon on the bowsprit and a corresponding mortice in the cap. Don't forget to angle the bowsprit end to match,don't ask how I know that Dave
  15. davyboy
    I watched the documentary about this last Monday evening on a UK TV channel. Very interesting as was part 1 shown the previous week. They proved it was Greek by using a vacuum on the ROV to clear the sludge from the Rudder. The shape matched exactly that pictured on ancient Greek vases. They also found among other wrecks a sunken Roman ship laden to the "gunnels"with Amphorae. Dave
  16. davyboy
    Hi Bill,just for info. A Spanish galleon of 1588 would definitely not have chain anchor cables,they were a 19th century innovation. Dave
  17. davyboy
    Good evening Maurice, Looking good as usual. Enjoy your holiday and the Fish and Chips,something I really do miss living here. I'd give my eye teeth for a plate of fresh caught battered Cod and chunky Chips with brown sauce and vinegar. Steak and Kidney pie would also go down a treat. Dave
  18. davyboy
    Good evenjng Maurice, She looks very nice,her lovely lines are showing already. Rapid progress indeed. How do you find it working with 3mm MDF ? I've heard/read that the dust from it is very toxic due to the resin used in its manufacture. I have the bulkheads,false keel and the pear for the keel,stem and sternpost cut for my Speedwell but all have still to be sized correctly etc. Messy work which I do on the balcony as the missus would have a fit if I did it indoors. Regards, Dave
  19. davyboy
    Steven, Your second photo looks remarkably similar to a spritsail sheet block as fitted to English warships from the late 17th to mid 18th centuries. The drawings of these blocks in Lees Masting and Rigging book look almost identical. Just a thought but perhaps it had something to do with sail control. Dave
  20. davyboy
    Good evening Maurice, I look forward to following your build of the cutter Alert. She should "keep you out of mischief"for a couple of years. One thing puzzles me on this ship,what is the purpose of the yard between the lower and the topsail yard?. I can't see any lifts,braces or blocks attached to it in the pix in the kit review. Likely a silly question but.......... Kind regards. Dave
  21. davyboy
    Hi Steven, Continental sheet blocks had an upper sheave at a right angle from the lower sheave. They were somewhat pear shaped. This was used for the Topsail sheet and lower yard lifts. Of course your Dromon was Lateen rigged so it will be interesting to see what purpose a block with sheaves at right angles was used for there. The amount of research you are having to do for this build is extraordinary considering there is so little info from this period. Great stuff,I really enjoy following your build. Dave
  22. davyboy
    Hello Nicolas, I don't know whether you intend to build Triton POF or POB but you can find all the info on masts and yards you need here:- Google The elements and practice of rigging and seamanship. This takes you to the website of the San Francisco Maritime National Park Association which shows Steels book. Scroll down to page 50 all the size info on masts and yards is there for a Frigate such as Triton. If you scroll down to the bottom of the main page you will find the Tables and Dimensions of Standing and Running Rigging,again all you need to know is there. Just saw your last post,pages 208 - 211 should be of interest. Hope this helps. Dave
  23. davyboy
    Congratulations Maurice,she looks beautiful. Looking forward to following your next build. I received my HMS Speedwell book & plans last week now looking forward with some trepidation to building her POB. A good deal more difficult (for me anyway) than my Cheerful (finished) was. You should be getting an email from me later this week,Admiral has been away in Germany visiting friends hence the delay. Dave
  24. davyboy
    Hi Caleb, You might consider Chuck Passaros' HMS Cutter Cheerful from Syren Ship Model Company advertised here on the forum. He sells the POB plans at 1/48 scale for this ship and excellent plans they are. There is a practicum on his site showing all stages of construction,he also sells various mini-kits et al for the model. I've just finished scratch building this ship excluding the Windlass (didn't have a mill then when I ordered the plans) Took me over 3 years but I'm well pleased with the result as it's only my second build. Welcome on board MSW. Dave
  25. davyboy
    Hi Vossie, I had the same problem on my HMS Cheerful and I pinned mine which worked a treat. Or you could try some rapid curing epoxy resin which will adhere to brass providing you roughly score the inner face. Lovely job your making of this build 👍 Dave

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