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davyboy

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Everything posted by davyboy

  1. davyboy
    I've never used bits of paper as templates. There is usually a standard distance between Ratlines of 12" to 15" ",I use 12". A piece of wood 1/4" wide (I build in 1:48th) clipped across the shrouds below where the first ratline is to be rigged. Rig the ratline then clip your piece of wood directly above it and rig the next and so on. The beauty of doing it this way is you can ensure good alignment of all your ratlines with out struggling to align them with lines on a sometimes wobbly piece of paper. It works very well for me,try it. I'm sure I read this tip here on the forum years ago. Dave
  2. davyboy
    Hello Wefalk, That practice is called pollarding and is still carried out to a limited degree in England for various reasons. Plenty of information on google and other search engines. Dave
  3. davyboy
    Looks very nice indeed Maurice,certainly a great improvement. Dave
  4. davyboy
    Hi drftrman, Cruizer was my first ship model a long time ago. Don't worry about the bulkhead tops,at a later stage of the build when the hull is planked they're cut off. Just lightly tack glue the gunport patterns to them for that reason after fairing. I found that out the hard way. Have fun with your build,plenty advice on the forum,you just have to ask. Dave
  5. davyboy
    Hi Maurice, She's looking good. These fashion pieces look much better than that shown on the prototype build. The Speedwell has exactly the same arrangement on the lower counter,I suspect that would be fairly common construction practice back in the day on small ships still using the older style square tuck . I'm currently chipping away at the boxwood carved figures of the two ladies ornamenting Speedwell's tafferel,then there are other smaller pieces to be done. Heigh Ho,get there eventually I guess. Dave
  6. davyboy
    Have you tried sticking it to a backing piece of thin (1/8" or so plywood) I can't speak for styrene but I successfully cut 0,015" copper and brass sheet doing that on my Proxxon KS 230 saw using their thin fine toothed # 28020 50mm blade. Just take it slowly so you don't melt the styrene plastic. Dave
  7. davyboy
    While my interests lie in the 18th Century it is an absolute joy to see your wonderful metalwork Valeriy. Dave
  8. davyboy
    Hi Maurice,I see you've started already,lots of fun ahead for you. Dave
  9. davyboy
    Not a good idea,think about it. Throwing a towel over a rotating chuck or for that matter any rotating object Dave
  10. davyboy
    Hi JimO, There is a very good build log of her at 1:45th scale on the forum by a Belgian member who posts under the name Baker. May be of some help to you. Also welcome aboard MSW. Dave
  11. davyboy
    Simply done. I just run a length of aluminium tape on both sides of the blade when I use their 0,5 mm blade. When I use their wider blades I simply remove the tape. Dave
  12. davyboy
    It works perfectly,I've been doing that for ages on my KS230 when using their 0,5 mm blade. Best to remove the splitter then you can tape right to the back. Dave
  13. davyboy
    That brought back a few memories for me. Back in the 1960's I was in the RAF and stationed in Bahrein our sea angling club used to regularly go on weekend fishing trips on Arab boats. No such luxury as a sponge on a stick there,a packing case hung over the stern with a plank knocked out of the bottom and a bucket on a rope for ones ablutions. No one I knew took bog paper with them Happy days,at least the sea was warm there.
  14. davyboy
    Hi there Slowhand, Google Proxxon FET table saw review. There you will find a video and info on the tool,the article is just under the row of adverts. Go for it,it's a good buy,I've had mine for a number of years. Only thing I didn't like was that stupid plastic blade guard,I removed mine straight away. Dave
  15. davyboy
    Hi James, FWIW David Antscherl and Greg Herberts books on building a Model of HMS Speedwell 1752 can be obtained from Seawatch Books. You have a choice to build at 1:48th scale a model in solid lift,plank on bulkhead or fully framed, the plans are excellent and fully detailed. There are several build logs of Chuck Passaro's kit of Speedwell at 1:32nd here on the forum in the kit build section,look at these to give you an idea of what's involved with a POF build of a just a small ship. Chuck also has his original build in the scratch build section which is considerably further on than the kit builds. My build of her at 1:48th is POB in Box and Pear which is almost finished after 5 1/2 years and is 85 cm long from Transom to jib boom tip,POF would have taken me much longer. You could of course easily have the plans enlarged,bear in mind if you doubled up you would have a model 1.7 metres long from Transom to Bowsprit tip Thats about the size of a 3 decked first rate at 1:48th with a damned sight less work involved. Anyway I wish you luck in your quest. Dave
  16. davyboy
    Hi Johann, that is very interesting indeed,one learns something new every day. The English had something similar,the Topsail Tie Block itself was connected by a strop to a Bullseye free to run on the Backstay. I expect it had much the same purpose,however I read it was just to prevent the Tie Block and Halliard falling onto the deck causing damage or injury if the Tie was severed in battle. One shouldn't believe all that one reads I guess. Kind regards, Dave
  17. davyboy
    Hi Johann, You asked in a previous post about the correct attachment of braces to the stays. Karl Marquardt's book 18th Century Rigs and Rigging has on Pages 101 & 102 brace rigging diagrams of English,French and German methods which may be of assistance to you. You may of course have already found an answer but I thought it was worth mentioning anyway. Gruss. Dave
  18. davyboy
    Congratulations Christian,your model is very nice indeed. Dave
  19. davyboy
    Hi George, If I remember correctly from my schooldays 7 decades ago 1sq yard is 9 sq ft,3 x 3. That would give RRS Discovery a sail area of Approximately 1,366 sq yards. Re your flying Fish multiply the 8250 sq yds by 9 and you have your sq ft. I think/hope I've got that right. Dave
  20. davyboy
    Looking very nice Christian,keep up the good work. Now comes the "joy"of fitting the running rigging. Dave
  21. davyboy
    Hi Simon, It's a long and winding road but the journey will be worth it. Looking good so far. Dave
  22. davyboy
    Tony, You do have to be a member to see any photo's on their site. Non members are blocked. Dave
  23. davyboy
    I made them on my Speedwell according to David's plan,the largish diameter would make sense for solids disposal. The question of these being discharge points for only pissdales intrigues me. If there were only pissdales on Speedwell where/how was the solid waste of the ordinary seamen disposed of ? Using the headrails would be rather dangerous,the channels maybe,or just hang their rumps over the side ? Just asking Dave
  24. davyboy
    Welcome on board from Switzerland Tony. Remember the saying "great oaks from little acorns grow". Enjoy your build,any problems then help is always here on the forum. Just ask. Dave
  25. davyboy
    Quite an interesting read. I work in Imperial at 1:48th scale. A foot is 0.250"at 1:48th,an inch at 1:48th scale is 0.021",actually it is 0.0002" less but I use the 0.021" as I'm building a model ship from wood not a million Franc watch. Easy enough to work out whatever scale one uses in imperial or metric I guess. Dave

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