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Everything posted by davyboy

  1. Received my belated Christmas presents today from the UK. Navy Board Ship Models by Ball and Stephens and Wooden Warship Construction by Lavery. I have only had a quick look through both books,wow !! Superb colour pictures and text in the first and definitely a worthwhile buy for anyone interested in these Models. I'll now give the latest book on the US Naval Academy Models a miss due to the extortionate $30 postage cost. Laverys' book is also very good,my only complaint being it's too small I'd have happily paid more for a larger format book. Looking forward to some long reading sessions Dave
  2. Andante,I use Pritt glue sticks. Available throughout Europe I believe as they have the name (glue stick) in 15 different languages on the container. Dave
  3. Very nice BE, may I suggest not hanging the rudder until later in your build. It is quite vulnerable,don't ask me how I know. I've made my "waste product pipes" and their location holes in the planking. Drilled a small hole then filed them out as I didn't wish to risk any splintering. Best wishes for the festive season, Dave
  4. Good evening BE, One interesting point re the "facilities" comes to mind. There are no discharge pipes/chutes for them shown on the plan as I'm sure there must have been. I missed this earlier so I will now run a small drill down the "hole" and through the lower counter planking. Can then open it out to a suitable size for a piece of tubing. I would imagine that the area below each "facility" compartment must have been lead lined to prevent rotting of the lower counter planks. Not that we need to bother about that though. On the other hand,maybe only buckets were there and "naughty" sailors were given "latrine detail" instead of the cat Sorry,couldn't resist saying that. Regards,and keep up your excellent work. Dave
  5. Good evening Scott, The following sail rigging shown on period ship models is normally left on with the upper yards lowered to the caps. Sheets and Clewlines,they help to hold the yards down. Buntlines,Leechlines and Reefing tackles if fitted,an overhand knot is tied at the rope ends and the lines pulled up to their respective leading blocks on the yard. Bowlines are not always shown but if so,they are hitched to their respective yards. Hope this is of some help. Dave
  6. Good evening timboat, Telescopes/spyglasses first appeared in the early 17th century. I would think that at least a ships captain Naval or Merchant would possess one in the early 18th century. Dave
  7. Hi BE,that's an excellent job you have made of your deck planking. Very nice indeed Dave
  8. Hi BE,can't help you there as I planked the deck as shown on the plans. However,in Chucks' practicum you can see the 3 outer plank strakes are hooded at the ends. Perhaps that may solve your dilemma and give you the required space for the first 6. Just a thought in case you haven't noticed that. Hope this makes sense. Regards, Dave
  9. Hi Allan, I'm not 100% sure but I think they were/are synonymous with the fore jeer bitts. Lees has some belaying plans in his Masting and Rigging book and one plan has them named main top bowline bitts with the fore jeer bitts below on the main deck. The others fore jeer bits. Hopefully a more knowledgeable member can give a definitive answer. Dave
  10. Thank you Allan and BE,a timber hitch it will be. I have Andersons' books didn't think to look in there Spyglass,lovely photo's,thanks for posting them. Kind regards, Dave
  11. Thanks Gregory, I will just form an eye and sieze the Clewline to the yard. The Mondfeld illustration and Chucks rigging plan don't actually show how it's attached to the yard. Also Lees doesn't say how in the text in his book. Likely standard practice and not worth mentioning. Mark,the model is of the cutter HMS Cheerful scratched from Chucks' plans. Thank you, Dave
  12. How would the clewline be attached to the Topsail Yard ? 1) By an eye then lashed to the yard. 2) By an eye with the running end passed through the eye Lees shows the second option but that is on a model from 1692. The pix of other models are not really clear enough to see an alternative. Thanks, Dave
  13. Hi SpyGlass, Have a look at this website. massiv-holz-werkstatt.de He has a large selection of wood at very good prices both strip and plank in 1 metre lengths. The planks are 100mm wide but he can supply wider if required. I had all the pearwood for my Cheerful build from him,good quality. Dave
  14. Alan,LOS will not blacken Brass but is great for Copper. I tried blackening the pintles and gudgeons for my Cheerful build,left them in an LOS solution for hours with little result. They barely changed colour. Carrs Brass black at at 20% strength instant result. Dave
  15. Hi B.E. I have 7/8th" approx. Difficult to be exact as shrouds,guns and guntackles are in the way. I can't get my vernier in so had to use 2 bits of wood and a pencil mark. Hope this is of use to you. Dave
  16. Hi B.E. Thanks for that,I did think that 1/8th" square was about right for the swivel posts. The gun carriages were not too bad to scratch,I glued the carriage profile drawings to suitably dimensioned wood and cut them on my mill. Just a case then of slicing off the required number of sides,the rest was easy enough,just took a bit of time. The worst for me was making that tiny skylight,broke several window frames doing it The port shroud ratlines are done,now doing the stbd side. Not my favourite job as I've rheumatics in my right thumb and wrist and also the left. What with that and old mans shakes tying clove hitches with tweezers is not funny 😥 I like your dish of goodies but you'll need a bigger one for the rest of the guns Dave
  17. Hi B.E. I too made jigs for both types of carriage. I scratch built mine and was very surprised how many separate parts there are,30 pieces altogether I think not counting gun tackle blocks. Never mind,you've only got 11 more to finish Currently progressing the Topmast standing rigging but can't finalise the Topmast shrouds as I'll have to do the ratlines on the lower shrouds first (my pet hate) for easier access. A question if I may,what dimension do you think should Swivel gun posts be,6" square,9" square ? I can't find any info in any of my books. I tried some 1/8th and 3/16" squ' (1/48th scale size) and prefer the former as it looks more realistic. As usual keep up your excellent work. Regards, Dave
  18. Hello Ed, That second last photo WOW. Looking at that one could almost believe you are standing on the deck of the real ship. Wonderful work indeed. Kind regards, Dave
  19. Hi Stergios, Assuming your mast cap is not yet glued on here's what I would do. Get a piece of wood of the same size as the masthead,sieze your shrouds around that then just transfer them onto the masthead. No chance of doing any damage to the model then. Dave
  20. A very nice Companionway BE,I take my hat off to you making working hinges for it. I managed to cut out the fwd corner bits on my main hatch grating without doing any damage. Took quite a while after drilling 3/64" holes right through the decking then filing out the pieces,luckily I have some very small square tapered Jewelers files 1mm x 80mm long to do this. regards, Dave
  21. Hello Druxey and Dowmer thanks for your replies. I've another pair of faux sheave holes to drill now,will go for fore and aft. Dave
  22. Masthead trucks usually had a sheave for flying a flag or pennant. Does anyone know what the sheave orientation was ? Fore and Aft or Athwartships. Thank you. Dave
  23. Wefalk,perhaps I should have written bend the wire around the pin ensuring the two ends are inside the tube slot,silly me. Dave
  24. Hi Pavel,I'm not knocking Dremel but I bought a model 398 which came with kit of accessories 10 years ago. I found it very noisy and also having too much vibration and bulky. I have hardly used it at all. All my power tools except my bandsaw are Proxxon,quiet with no vibration. Maybe I bought a bad one,who knows,but once bitten twice shy so to say. BTW,I've no connection to the Proxxon company. Dave

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