davyboy

Deciding what ship to build is never easy. Having finished Agamemnon, I considered a three-decker, but they do look rather clumsy to me, and the prospect of quite so many gunports was off-putting. So, though I was briefly tempted, I decided not to go for Royal William. That figurehead with two horses was just too much. An eighteenth-century ship seemed the best answer, though for reasons  which may not be clear to readers of this blog, there are some who might expect me to try a medieval ship, say the Christopher which took Edward III abroad in the late 1330s, with a crew of 103 sailors. But, of course, there are no details of the ship herself, so that was out of the question. Nor are the building accounts for Edward’s Philippa any use, though they provide evidence to fuel arguments about the size of her sail. Centurion was tempting, for there are plans in the National Maritime Museum, and good photographs of the model made for Anson, who commanded her on the famous circumnavigation. I did make a model of an early eighteenth-century two decker back in the late 1950’s, based on a model in the Pitt Rivers Museum in Oxford, which is now residing in my daughter’s attic, but I don’t believe that I will be repeating myself. So, Centurion it is.
 
There will be problems, particularly with the decoration, but there’s no point in attempting a model that does not present challenges. I’m intending to build the hull using the bread-and-butter method. This does not seem to be much in vogue these days, but it is how models were made in the early eighteenth century (the so-called Georgian style). The open-framed Navy Board style would be difficult with a small model, and is anyway beyond me. My bible in my youth was Barrot de Gaillard’s Construisez des Modeles Réuoits de Marine, which advocated bread-and-butter, and it’s still the method I prefer. Bulkheads would of course be possible, but that method would probably demand double planking, though in my youth I did try layers of sticky brown paper on one model, which worked well, and still looks fine. As for making a fully framed model, that would be beyond me.
 
The plans in the National Maritime Museum present something of a difficulty, for there are two, and they are not quite the same. It may be that one was drawn up prior to building the vessel, and the other represents the ship as built. Or, possibly, the latter was drawn to assist Benjamin Slade, when he made the model that was presented to Anson himself. It seems to me posssible that it shows the ship following her refit in 1739 prior to the famous circumnavigation. The first is noted on the back as being for ‘A 60 gun ship’, while the second has Centurion named. I’ll make use of both, but  have for the most part used the earlier plan. The issue is discussed elsewhere on this site, at https://modelshipworld.com/topic/37674-centurion-of-1732/#comment-1078072 .  The NMM also has a plan of the stern, catalogued as being of Centurion 1732. It resembles the stern as depicted in the later plan, but not the way the model has it. 
 
So, here’s the start. Note that the scale is 1:160, so the model will be about a foot in length. It all looks very primitive in the early stages, but there seemed little point in trying to fabricate the keel as one would have to do with, say, a scale of 1:48 as used by the craftsmen who built such splendid models in the 18th century. The wood for the bread-and-butter slices is balsa, and I dare say that choice will not meet with much approval. But it is easy to work, and does not warp, twist, expand or contract, at least to judge by the way the models I made in the late 1950s have lasted.
 
The next photo shows initial progress, with just a couple of templates I’ve used to check that the model follows the plan reasonably closely. I’ve tried something new for me, Barrot de Gaillard’s method of making gunports. It does ensure that they are all lined up correctly. He was a little concerned that the sheer meant that the rectangular blocks were not quite vertical at the bow and stern, but that’s easily remedied by making the blocks less than absolutely square. I’ve not decided whether to have the gunports, at least the lower ones, open or closed, but that decision can wait. I think that these gunports are too small for it to be worth lining them, though it would make them neater.
 
Next is another view, showing deck beams installed. There is a long way to go. 

Hello, and many thanks for your comments and likes
Over the weekend I oiled the outer part of the ship the second time, and today I build the upper part of the Mast Fish.

9
The Ghanjah is now completely finished, but there are always small things that I would like to add/change when further studying this beautiful ship from the Dhow family.
 



 The stern with a "Zuli" on the edge, a squat toilet made in a kind of half barrel. Every Dhow has this as standard equipment, sometimes there are two on each side. The thing is suspended from two ropes and could hang anywhere on the ship if desired. This also made it suitable as a location for carrying out maintenance on the outside of the ship.
 



Part of the cargo on the deck.
 

 

 
 To the left below the capstan, mainly intended for raising the anchor and as a source of power for lowering and erecting the mast.

There are few photos of Ghanjah's that give an idea of the decks during the operation of those vessels. However, it is clear that, in our eyes, it was chaos. Things were lying and standing everywhere and often the deck planks were hardly visible. The laying of the ropes required for the running and standing rigging was apparently also left entirely to chance. Wherever there was an opportunity, they tied things up. For example, I saw a photo where the sheet of the mainsail was tied to the bench of a sloop on the deck.

Work on hoisting the yard on deck of a Boum. This type is much smaller than a Ghanjah and apparently there was enough muscle power to do without a capstan. The four discs in the halyard block are there for a clear reason.
 


The foreship. Just behind the bow a wide beam with two upright bollards. Standard with every Dhow. Behind it is a second beam (over which the anchor ropes go), which is intended as a support point for lowering and erecting the mast. The beam is completely fixed and therefore cannot rotate. The figurehead is a stylized head of a rooster. characteristic of the type of the Ghanjah. The two sister ships of this ship, the Kotia and the Baghla, have different figureheads.
 
 

The top of the main mast with the attachment points of the mittens which in this case are only on the starboard side.
In July 2017 I started construction, but I didn't work on it continuously. On the one hand because the research into this ship took quite some time, on the other hand because I also had other activities. I made all parts up to and including the anchors myself. I didn't use any plastic in it. I never paint my models, it's mainly about the construction

It was a wonderfull experience to work on it.
 
 Constant
 

8
 
A difficulty arose in making the sails. The only store in my city that sold the right kind of cotton for the sails, I am very critical about that, no longer had the material in its range. I tried it at a thrift store and found myself among a large collection of cute women's blouses. And yes, there was one that was made of 100% cotton and in the right thickness and fineness. For 1.5 euros I bought it and explained it to surprised ladies who were also looking there, but for a completely different reason, for which I needed it.
I made the sails completely according to the procedure I explained on my website; www.constantwillems.nl
Just before that I had slightly bent the yards by securing them in the shape on a board. Then I steamed the yards through the steam from our cappuccino machine, and let it sit for two days. Now they look fine.
 

 
Making the main sail. After the fabric was colored in a paint bath and dried, I carefully stretched it on a piece of plasticized plywood. On top of that a piece of paper was fastened on which the entire sail was drawn. Apparently there will be no doubling in the corners as usual with Dutch sails and there is also no reefing band. The sails were not reefed. In heavy weather, a smaller sail was simply raised. I smeared the leech on the edge of the sail with very slightly diluted wood glue. As little as possible so that the glue does not shine after drying. I rubbed it all around and worked clockwise. As you can see here, about half of them have already dried completely and are not shiny.

After this I cut out the sail and attached  the bolt rope against the edge all around. Small loops are then placed in the corners. That attachment was again done with wood glue.

Above the sail I have placed the yard which I have bent slightly. It looks a bit strange if it can be seen dead straight on the model.
 
I can recommend this method to everyone. Especially if you build on such a small scale as HO (1 : 87). It all stays firmly in place and because of the glue edge it does not fray and that edge is already pre-glued when attaching the leech rope.
 

The sails ready to attach to the yards
 
First I rigged the model with only the main sail. Because the sail hangs down a bit limply, I decided to keep it in shape. A small hand fan was placed behind the ship (the kind of thing you need on hot summer days if you are a tourist). I let it blow and positioned it until the natural bulge of the sail was created. Then I carefully sprayed a number of clouds on the tarp with hairspray from a distance of about 30 cm (instructions). After spraying about five times, I turned off the fan and the shape remained in the requested shape.
 

 
I drew on the tarp with a black ballpoint pen. That didn't flow out because of the hairspray. And it smells good in the house for the time being.
In any case, it is advisable to make a test first to try out how much you have to spray on the cotton to get it stiff and whether the ink you used to draw on the sail does not flow out.  By the way, instead of such a small fan, you can also use a hair dryer (to immitate a storm?)

Then the mizzen was applied and the above process was repeated.
There was a question whether this will last long. I did this treatment in 2018 and now it's 2025 and the sails still feel stiff and stay in shape. So I am confident that it is long-term.
 


Mizzen is now ready. And also treated with lacquer.
 

 
There are still a number of things to be put on, the anchors, the outboard toilet, the deck cargo and a lot of coiled ropes.
 

Constant
 
 

A landmark day (of sorts) on Monday, with half the square sails now rigged (apart from their braces, of course). I should get the main lower topgallant crossed either Friday or Monday, so she's looking more and more like a sailing ship and less like an abandoned wreck!
 
John
 

@wefalck
@JerryTodd
@giampieroricci
Hello,
I would like to thank you very much for your interest and contributions.
And of course, many thanks to everyone else for the likes.
 
Hello colleagues,
I've tried to summarize the information I gathered some time ago about the brace routing for my French corvette in a diagram for further rigging work.
If you're interested, please zoom in!
I hope you'll forgive me for only labeling it in German.
But the pictures will explain it to some extent.

What an incredible job you are doing, Johann! Your model should be taken as an example for all those who want to equip their own!
Absolute perfection!!!

Log #23: The First Bulkheads
The final step before starting work on the bulkheads was I needed to mark the waterline. As previously mentioned I realized that the waterline on the Perseus is not actually parallel with the keel and so I wanted to mark the two ends of it while I could still lay the center bulkhead flat on a template.
 
Asthetically I am not planning on coppering Perseus, but I want to give a nod to the fact that she was coppered so I am planning on adding a batton along the waterline to mark it as if the coppering was there. This batton is prevalent on a number of coppered models, most notably the bellona model. However there is limited documentation on how big to make this so I went with a combination of what seemed reasonable, how big the batton in the bellona model looked and what looked nice on the model. In the end I used a 3/64 x 1/64 batton equating to a 1 inch by 3 inch strip at scale.
 
I also added a second coat of WOP below the waterline as this area won’t be painted and some extra protection couldn’t hurt.

Once the WOP was dried and sanded I covered up the keel and head with masking tape to protect it and secured the whole assembly to the build board with the brackets and screws.
 
Then I started adding the first of the bulkheads. I started by adding in the first two using lego to hold everything square. The lego was clamped to the center bulkhead and then the individual bulkheads clamped on both sides to the lego blocks. Lego is a convenient tool for this as it is readily available in my house and can be adjusted to a wide variety of shapes and sizes.

Then I worked backwards until I hit the last of the shorter bulkhead pieces. From this point on I worked forwards as I want to add the taller more fragile bulkhead pieces last to minimize the risk of.me accidentally breaking them.

As I approach the cut outs for the ladders from the lower deck down to the hold I needed to modify the lego shapes to make sure there was enough surface contact with the center bulkhead, but also to leave gaps to go around the nuts that screws securing the model to the base go into.
 
The process is not quick as I need to glue and clamp the bulkhead in place and then shape the spacer pieces such that they can slide into the gap smoothly. I then need to leave the whole thing clamped until it is dry (3-4 hours to be on the safe side). I am also being very careful as I want to make sure everything is square and good. Mistakes at this point could be a big problem later on if I don’t line everything up right.

This is a very encouraging part of the build as after a lot of prep work the shape of the ship is starting to take shape.
 

Progress has been a bit slow over the last couple of weeks due to the very nice weather. I decided it was time to revamp the garden pond. I ended up digging a new larger hole (7ftL by 4ftW by 1.5ftD) and fitting a new liner. The fish seem happy in their new home and I added a few more small ones, plus a filter and fountain.

Moving on the Harpy progress. I decided to follow @ECK lead and to fit and rig the yards to the masts before starting with the shrouds. It was certainly much easier to do at this stage.

Next I started to rig the shrouds. I did an initial check that the method for adding the deadeyes would help to ensure they look reasonably level. It appears to work, noting I will need remove the left-hand lanyard as the deadeye needs to be rotated slightly.

The method I am using is to place a jig in the channel deadeye. The shroud is passed through a hole and held in place using a clamp.

The seizing thread is then passed through the shroud line, as shown in the next photo, using a needle.

The jig is then removed from the channel and the shroud and seizing is then pulled back through the hole.

The final check is to make sure the seizing thread for the adjacent shrouds looks level.

In my next post I will detail how the deadeye is added to the shroud.
 

More progress, but not a lot to see.
 
The eyepins/ringbolts were all added, with blocks seized to them where required, mostly those associated with the steering tackle. The instructions call for these latter blocks to be 3mm in size, but to me, these looked overscale and 2mm blocks were substituted. The ringbolts were made by adding a brass ring to the PE eyepins.
 
All pin racks and cleats were glued in place.
 
The tiller is in place but not glued.

The rudder has been sitting out of harm's way, but was now fixed to the hull. Following Blue Ensign's example, a rudder coat was fashioned to fit around the rudder where it passed through the lower counter. I made one of these for my Pegasus build but couldn't remember how I'd done it so I referred to B.E's detailed description of his method in his Alert build log (here) and I more-or-less followed his method. Briefly, the coat consists of a canvas "bag" held against the rudder and the hull by a metal plate. I made the "metal" plate first, getting the inside shape by using a piece of the fret that had contained the lower counter, and then simply eyeballing the outer edge to give me a horseshoe shaped plate. Card was used. I had no fine material for the bag so used surgical tape instead. The plate and the tape were glued to the hull, leaving the tape baggy enough to stuff some cotton wool into it and then moulded it to suggest a bag. Once satisfied with this, I painted the coat with a mix of black water-based acrylic and PVA.
 
Card and the piece of fret used to get the inner shape of the plate.

The partly stuffed bag.



Cheers

Post 78
Cutters 18’ and 22’
These are the new resin hulled version with Pearwood fittings.
Nicely formed with Lapstrake planking, detailed framing, mast steps, and rowlocks set-up for single banked rowing.
The colour scheme needs to be decided first, something that  co-ordinates with the main ship scheme.
For the outer hull colour I used Vallejo White/grey, and for the Gunwales Black/grey. I think this gives a more scale effect.
For the inner hull I used a combination of oche brown shade mixtures until I got a look I liked. I then applied a wash of Dark Brown.

4297a
This picked up the inner Lapstrake planking.
I applied the same scheme to both cutters.
The Pearwood fittings I left bright just treated with w-o-p.
 
22’ Cutter
Inserting the Pearwood fittings, takes a little care, they are quite delicate, particularly the stern sheets.
They are accurately cut  to fit around the  hull ribs  but light pressure only should be used to fit into place.
 I used spots of cyano.

4308a
One thing I did note ; there does not seem to be a laser cut thwart for the aftermost position. A minor issue as one is easily cut from the laser fret.
Adding detail
Adding the mast clamps to the thwarts is a small improvement, easily done using black card.

4301a
Using a  stick helps align the  thwart with the mast step.

4309a
I also like to add lifting rings to the keelson.

4317a
At this scale it is feasible to add the rudder hanging ironware to the Cutter stern. This comprises a long  pintle, and  Gudgeon ring. Fiddly, but it’s stuff I like to do.

4316a
This particular arrangement is designed for quick attachment/ removal of the rudder.
 
 
The set-up for rowing is three pairs of offset rowlocks which would suggest single banked rowing positions. The oar lengths would suggest  double banked rowing, so with this arrangement there would presumably be one rower per thwart, alternating port and starboard.
I’m not too keen on the provided oars for the 22’ cutter, the blade looks too short and paddle like for my taste.

4305a
The oar style supplied with Indy looks more the shape to my eye and fortunately I had some spares I could utilise.
 
Boat cradles are supplied (for the 18’ cutter) but will fit the 22’ cutter. If the larger cutter is to be stored on deck, the cradles need raising a little to allow the boat keel to clear the coamings. I added 2x2mm Pearwood strip to the bottom of the cradles.

4324a
I always find fitting cradles a tricky exercise, getting them central to the deck, square, and  correctly spaced to fit the hull. It would be easier to glue the hull to the cradles before fitting, but I prefer not to do that.

4325a

4327a

4328a
Nice to see that my scale figure sits perfectly in the sternsheets.

4331a

4332a
Some paintwork tidying is still required, but I’ll attend to that in conjunction with the 18’ Cutter
 
B.E.
18/05/2025
 
 

Baggywrinkles revisited.
 
I looked at "fuzzy threads" for knitting at a local store, and they have very little bulk. I think if they were wrapped around a rope they wouldn't make much of a bundle.
 
Then I got the idea to use one of my standard tools/building materials - pipe cleaners!
 

 
I don't smoke, but I have had this package of pipe cleaners in my modeling kit for decades. They are handy for cleaning out small orifices and such.
 

 
 
 
First I clamped a small drill bit into a vise. Then I wound the pipe cleaner around it tightly, leaving short "handles" at each end.
 
Here you can see I was also experimenting with coloring the mat. The pipe cleaner material is cotton, and cotton absorbs water. I dabbed on some acrylic paint to give it the color of "used rags." The paint soaked up nicely.
 
 
 
 
 

 
I am adding these after the boom lifts were already rigged. The trick here is to pull the spirals of the mat open. This allows the rope to be wrapped into the gap between spirals. But that means the rope must hang loose while you are wrapping it into the mat.
 
The standing part of the boom lift running tackle is hooked to a ring bolt on deck. The lift wasn't installed tightly so the hook came loose easily. This allowed the lift line to be wrapped around the mat.
 
After it was in place I cut off the "handles" and touched up the paint.
 
 
 
Here is a photo (left below) of the baggywrinkle on the model's boom lift. The photo on the right is a mat on the replica schooner Lynx.
 

6
 
I make the blocks myself from pear wood. The method is as has been described several times before.

The necessary rope does not come from the model shop, but I make it myself. Because of the small scale, it is not feasible  to maintain exactly the thicknesses that you do follow with models on a much larger scale. I actually limit myself to thin and very thin. As I described before on the forum, I use black and white thread that is on large spools (I think one kilometer long) with a thickness of 1.5 mm. And that can be bought in shops for fishing equipment. It consists of 12 strands. I cut off a piece of about 1.5 meters and that piece alone is more than enough for all the rigging of the Ghanjah. I sift it out until I have rope of 2 and 3 strands. For something thicker I use 4 strands.

I wet this in glue water. About one-third glue, the rest water. I put a screw eye on a drill and tie the rope of 2 strands to it, for example, while it is still wet from the glue water. I tie the other end to a fixed point. Then I let the drill run until I like the result. You then have a twisted piece of rope that I then wet again and hang it up to dry. Be careful that it does not turn back on its own. After drying, you have a nice piece of cotton rope, without nylon, in a thickness of less than a mm. Because of the glue, it no longer turns back.
The rope is made as described above

The advantage is also that because of the glue water, no pieces of wire will be perpendicular to the rope. Something I find it very disturbing with wire that is available in the model store. Those ropes attract a lot of dust that gets stuck to those protrusions. If it also contains nylon, the rope is difficult to glue. The rope that I make in this way can be simply secured with wood glue without. Because the white rope is still very white, I take a little mud from the garden and rub the rope with it. This makes it a bit grubby, which imitates the many uses on a ship well.

I use the "white" rope for the running rigging, the black one I use for the standing rigging. It will be clear that hardly any black rope is needed for the Ghanjah, in fact everything is running.



Left and right rope from the model shop (Artesania Latina) and that contains nylon. In the middle the rope that I put together myself from pure cotton thread and treated with glue water.
 
 
A second method I use for glue water. I provide an old box for film rolls with glue and water. Put the lid on and shake well. Then I slowly guide the rope through, held under water by a forked slat.

Making the rigging on the windward side for the mainmast.

There will be no shrouds on the port side, which is a bit of a strange sight now. I have already described the reason for this in episode 4. In this model, I assume that the wind comes from starboard. Windward side is starboard, leeward side is port.
Furthermore, the deck hatches have now been installed and a ladder has been placed in the hold. The capstan is also present. This is placed eccentrically so that the anchor rope can also be guided along the mast. The shrouds are attached with sticks. The halyard block hangs a bit but that becomes much tighter after attaching the yard. The large mast is attached to a small pole in front of the mast. On the bulwark on the port side, the windward side, you can see the nooses that serve to attach the shrouds when the sail is fed over the other side of the mast
 
 
The capstan and the bitt to which the hoist with the halyard block is attached on the ship in Sur.
 
 
The small fixed pole on the ship to which the mast is attached by means of a seizing. Behind this is the higher hatch over the opening through which the mast can tilt backwards. This hatch is covered with a tarpaulin.


Constant

A lot of original Dhows are anchored in the bay around the Museum of Islamic Arts in Doha as well. Not sure if they can be visited. I found them anchored for the national holiday, but not sure if they were brought out for the holiday or permanently (inaccessibly) anchored. 

7
For the design of the sails I used provisional sails made of paper
The yards were already finished.

To get the color of the wood of the yards in line with the rest of the ship, I made it from pear wood. When they were done, an unexpected movement broke the yard. Pear wood was therefore a bit too soft. I started again with beech wood which is much stronger in the longitudinal direction. To glue the parts together I colored it with brown watercolor.

After a lot of cutting, pasting and trying again, this became the result for the sails. I found not really good drawings for the sails. I obtained this form after studying everything I could get my hands on in terms of photographic material about sailing Ghanjah's. It all looks a bit static because it is stiff paper. The yard of the mainmast is almost as long as the ship, which is normal with those ships. The mizzen yard is slightly shorter. I also have to bend the yard a bit.

The yard is here over the deck.
 
How enormously long such a yard can be is shown in this photo, which makes you wonder why that thing doesn't break. I don't think Dutch shipbuilders would dare to do this.

 
As this photo shows, a yard sometimes looks like a collection of various pieces of round wood. The piece on the left is tied to the bottom with a rope and has nothing to do with the yard but probably serves to hang a kind of awning over it. The mizzen yard is shorter and the extension at one of the ends is not necessary. What I have understood so far is this is  teak, just like the hull.
 
 Such ships often carried a considerable amount of cargo on deck. When the model is completely rigged, I will look for a place for these crates and barrels. Until then, I kindly asked that Arab to watch the load.


Constant

@albert
@SaltyScot
@Keith Black
Hello,
It's nice to see that there's still interest in my model after so long.
Thank you and everyone for the likes.
 
Continuation: Fore braces / Bras de misaine
Before installing the fore braces, I revisited my question regarding the attachment of the standing parts to the stays and tried to gather further information on this topic.
Ultimately, based on advice from colleagues in relevant forums, I came to the conclusion that a rolling hitch seems quite appropriate here. In French, this is called an amarrage à fouet.
Before attempting the model, I tried tying a knot on a piece of rope. The loose line was secured to the stay using seizing.
I find this solution plausible and will therefore implement it accordingly on the model.

 
In this context, there was still a need for clarification regarding the routing of the fore topsail braces, since, according to the monograph, their standing parts should also be attached to the mainstay, where the fore braces are also attached.

 
However, the original Paris model shows the routing of the fore topsail braces differently than in the monograph. The standing parts run upwards to the main topmast stay where they are tied, as shown in the following illustration.

 
The aforementioned routing of the topsail braces was obviously quite common at that time. It should also be noted that the ship models from around 1800 in the Musée de la Marine have split foremast braces, i.e., the running parts run downwards via blocks on the mainstay for mooring, and the standing parts are attached to the main topmast stay.
This is also how it is shown and described in the Harland. Therefore, I am once again following the Paris model and not the monograph.

 
To be continued...

 

Today work :

Hello,
yesterday I oiled the hull, except the beams where later the mast fish lies. I think that it is time to build a stand. So that is, what I'm planing for the next time, during witch the oil could dry.

I don’t have the book, but many translator apps will enable one to take a picture of the page and it will translate directly onto the picture, replacing the original text with English, if you decide to get the book.
 
I did that for a German book on the Wappen Von Hamburg, with the plans in the back of the book, and it worked well enough to get the gist of what was being written.

A short break in construction. Czech Republic Championship competition and model exhibition in the beautiful surroundings of the Czech Doksy Castle..🔥

https://www.klom-admiral.cz//id:12346/micr-sekce-c-2025-zamek-doksy
 
I continue to produce other blocks of smaller dimensions. "Machine" production with shaped cutters..




waxed...

I'm gradually getting smaller and smaller.


There will still be a lot of manual labor here..😴

Hello,
this is a great day, the oar ports are closed.
To get the lids as close a possible centred over the hole, I turned a stick slightly smaller then the hole of 2,3mm. That was the hardest part today. 😀
Then I glued the lid, centred the stick to the lid, put the stick through the hole and glued the lid fast. Done 



And the results

Masts and yards.
During the last vacation, the possible dimensions were drawn up. (All this is largely guesswork).

A few months ago, wood was sawn. pine wood with thin grain. Age?? But the tree was sawn at least 25 years ago.
 Nice weather to work outside, So the "lathe" was set up. Own construction, not a pretty thing. But it works.

 
All masts parts are"semi" ready. Together with the main yard.

 

Here's a jig that can be made out of heavy card or aircraft ply. It's not my design but solves the spacing problem between the deadeyes.

 

Hello
Albert, thank you and all others also for your likes
After I cut out the oar ports, the ship looks really different. More like an ocean liner, or a space ship. 😀

Today I started with the production of the port lids. After doing some Photoshop work and test lids. 😐 But now, I think it works. 

The battle field in the winter garden, and the results. Half the lids are done.
After finishing the battens under the gun wale, I thought is that now masochism? This is in my opinion not far away from it. 😏


 

Forecastle done!