davyboy

Back to Mary.
 
The fore castle.
How do you start building something that doesn't have a clear example of it?
First I enlarge the drawing from the books from 1/100th to 1/50th. This drawing is placed on the model at approximately the "correct" position.

About the right height compared with the deck of the rear castle
And the base starts at about the right distance from cannon port M3

And then we continue building in cardboard

There's a cardboard front castle, with a happy assistant on the top deck.
Of course I don't know if this form is correct. But the idea is to roughly recreate the ship on the cover of the book.

 

I'm starting full-time student teaching in a few days, so this'll probably be the last update for some months -- possibly the last of the year.
 
The cheeks are a single layer of basswood.  I briefly considered cardstock, but they need to be thick enough to support the trestle trees.

 
Cheeks after cutting with the Dremel wheel and fine-tuning with sandpaper and files.

 
Using the ratio barkeater provided for me here, I traced the top onto plywood.

 
The trestle trees are basswood and the cross trees are very thin bamboo that I originally prepared for oars.

 
Having filed slots for the shrouds to go through, it was now necessary to hold the masts in place while the glue dried -- luckily they're so close together that a single piece of cardstock was enough to do the trick.

 
Marking the trestle trees for the cross tree notches.

 
At this point I had the miserable realization that since I hadn't cut tenons on the masts for the cheeks to sit in, they would stand out far enough to block the slots for the shrouds.  So I had to use a tiny needle file and riffler to widen the slots.

 
Took a long time but I think this'll be sufficient.

 
Not wanting to be bothered with a vise, I set the Dremel between some heavy books to hold it in place.

 
Sloped sides on the top produced by rotating it in gentle contact with the sanding barrel.

 
To get the right curvature for the rail, I rolled a small piece of cardstock around the top and traced it.

 
This initial piece became the guide for tracing the final piece.

 
I "broke" the rail by wrapping it around a pencil.

 
Finding the right length to trim it to.

 
I glued the rail down a little at a time so that it wouldn't spring away, similar to adding the deck rails.  When I was done I found I'd somehow cut it too short, so an additional piece of card needed to be trimmed precisely to shape with my sharpest scissors to cover the gap.

 
The ribs are a thin strip cut from a card with a desktop paper trimmer.

 
Mast, fully assembled.

 
With a solid hull you can mark the deck level on the mast by putting it in its hole and rotating it against a pencil point.  Then it's time to paint.

 
Current state of completion.

The deck fittings still aren't glued down, that's why the grating, windlass and pawl are kind of jumbled.

7
 
Hatches with gratings.
 
The ship has two hatches with gratings, both of which are located amidships, separated by an intermediate beam.
B is the blue blade of a large hacksaw, with a slat to protect my fingers.
That saw has a thickness of just under 1 mm, which can be used to make a trench of width converted to the scale 1 : 87 is .7,5 cm
The holes in a grating should never be larger than 7.5 cm, otherwise the crew will break their ankles when they walk over them.
I made a guide through which I slided a bundle of slats (A) of 2.5 x 0.8 mm. Slots were then carefully sawn in them that neatly stop at the thickness of the two metal rings that are under the saw. If a little too much is sawn away on those rings, I could turn those rings in a different position 

In this way, thin planks with slots are created, which glued together, form a grid.
 
 The masts, bowsprit and the yards.
 
Nowadays we know almost everything about the rigging and masts of the ships after 1600. This is only partly the case with ships from before that time, to which this ship also belongs. For that reason, a few things had to be thought of myself, as if I were in the shoes of the skipper at the time. These will be discussed in the course of the story. The foremast and the mainmast are keel-stepped, the mizzenmast stops in the deck above the tiller. The mizzen mast is in fact pulled backwards when the  shrouds are attached, because this type from before 1600 did not use a mizzenstay. This mast had to be supported backwards. I solved this by putting a wooden bobbin between the mast and the front of the cabin.
 
The three masts, the yards and the bowsprit are made of pear wood, cut and filed to the right thicknesses and tapered. 
On 17th century ships, it was customary to make the topmasts extendable, a novelty that was applied at the end of the 16th century. This ship may have had sewn topmasts on the foremast and the mainmast. However, the replica that was built in Harlingen, and was completed in 2023, has extendable topmasts.
 
The connection between the mast and the top mast is not extendable.
 


The angle of the bowsprit in relation to the waterline was accurately transferred to a piece of cardboard, after which the bowsprit was glued into the hole and support provided for this purpose.
 
In the photo above, the lack of the mizzenstay is clearly visible.
Apparently, a basket was attached to the top of the mizzenmast, which can be seen in the drawings of Gerrit de Veer.
 
 


I made the basket by attaching glued rope to a plastic pen, a ballpoint pen. Above and below the basket, the pen was covered with double-sided tape, to keep the ropes in place. After drying, the basket could be cut loose and a bottom, also made of rope, was added.
 
On the drawings of Gerrit de Veer it is not clearly visible whether a gammoning has been applied between the bowsprit and the head knee. In order to relieve the pull on the bowsprit upwards, this seems to be necessary, as later ships in particular show. In any case, I applied it, just like with the replica in Harlingen.

Thanks Craig @iMustBeCrazy.
I have now added another cutter, based on advice you gave earlier I have made a new cutting jig and got tiny saw to go with it.

 
Then from the drawings we discussed before I made a kit of parts.
 

 
when glued together they make V3 of the companionway.



 
With a bit of gentle sanding it will look okay.
 
Not sure if I will add a hole and a ladder so I can show it open.
 
Tim

Thank you guys...
 
I took a crack at the sailroom.
 
First I had to make the posts for the partitions.
 
There are thin laser cut strips that need to be glued to the sides of some 3/32" x 3/32" strips.   It might be hard to see but the laser cut strips are wider than needed.   You have to line up the open side with the edge of the 3/32" strip.  Let the other side hang over.   The upright on the left shows this.  Once the glue dries, you can sand that overhang down flush with the 3/32" strip.  This will leave rows of slanted slots for the louvers.   They should be open on both sides after sanding off the overhang.   There is also a long slot down the front edge that is created.  This is for the planked bottom of each partition.  
 
It is all shown on the plans.   The corner post gets two of these laser cut strips with the notches.  Just be careful when you glue them on so they are facing the right direction and the louvers will be able to slip into the slots easily.
 

Next I added the laser cut planked bottoms.  This essentially makes a nice two-sided partition.  The planking will fit into those long notches on the posts.  It is probably easier to see them in the photo below.  Keep a nice 90 degree corner with both sides.
 

Then its time to fit all of the louvers...for ventilation.
 
They are 3/32" x 1/64" strips.  Just cut them to length and start adding them.  Eight on each panel.
 

To finish off the sailroom..I made the door.  This is in two layers like all of the other bulkheads.   I made the door up and added the hinges and door handles.  Then I glued it to the louvered section of the sailroom.
 
Like this.
 

 
Now I could easily position the entire sailroom...hopefully.  It should line up and fit onto the 3/32" post already on the boatswains cabin.     And yes...we can finally glue the riding bitts into position permanently.
 

This pretty much finishes the cabins at the bow.   I was originally going to add a sail rack in the sailroom.  But after a lot of thought I realized it would never be seen.  The sailroom is pretty much covered up entirely by the deck planking and the deck beams.
 
In this photo I have fitted the deck beams as a test.  There will be several more between these larger deck beams too.   There are thin 3/32" deck beams...sometimes 3 or 4 between each of these larger deck beams.  They will obscure so much of the lower deck items.  But hopefully you will get a glimpse of some of this stuff as it is quite a bit of work to build it all.
 

 
The contemporary model with its many deck beams..
 

 
 

6
 
 
On the forcastle, and midships,  I built a lattice as can be seen on this old picture of the battle at Bantam in 1601.

This lattice was a feature which was common on merchant ships at the time. It had to be a defense system in case the ship would be boarded by pirates. Initially, it was a net of heavy ropes, but later it became a wooden lattice.
I only know the Dutch name for this construction "boevennet". If you were to translate it, it would become "crook's net"
The holes in the grid were such that they could be used to poke with spikes to target the attacker on the net from below. Much later, this completely disappeared and the lattice became a permanent deck.
 
On each side I attached stanchions which had to support the lattice over the forcastle.

 The lattice must then be placed on top of this, consisting of a number of curved beams with slats attached transversely.

The beams do not have the same width, but they must have the same height. Each beam had to be calculated and drawn separately, and sawn from thin pear wood. On the shelf next to it, the mold is made that corresponds to the tops of the stanchions.


 To determine how high the lattice should be, a HO figure of a sailor was placed underneath before attaching the construction. It looks like a tall construction, but the headroom underneath is barely 170 cm in the middle.



 In order to be able to determine the correct shape of the lattice midships, a helmsman was placed who had to be able to see just over the lattice
 
It turned out that the construction became almost horizontal at the rear and curved at the front. This shape was adopted on the rafters that were placed on the edges midships.

A ship of that size usually carried three anchors. I made two of them, of different sizes. They are sawn from a brass plate of 2 mm thick, on which I first glued the paper with the right circumference, and then filed it into the right shape. Both palms are made of very thin brass and cut into that shape. The parts are soldered together. This was simply not possible because of the conduction of the heat. A tool was made with a block of balsawood in which the contours of the bottom of the anchor were filed. By clamping the anchor on top of it and sliding the palms underneath, it became a solid unit that could easily be soldered.
 
 After that, sticks were made from two halves of pear wood. Then I painted them in a color: Revell 46 matt. The cannon barrels were also given that colour. Both anchors were placed on the bow. Catheads wer not used at that time.
 
 I didn't think it was realistic to equip all gun ports with cannons. Only two of them were fitted with sawn-off cannon barrels. Furthermore, I left two gates open, the others were closed.
 
Channels on which the deadeyes for the shrouds were mounted were not in use in that time. They were attached on a wale. As can be seen on illustrations.

5
 
The rudder was composed of two planks glued together with graphite in between.
I made the hinges from very thin brass plate, copper tube of 1.2 mm thick externally and copper wire of thick.0,8 mm
 
First the making of the tubes, with a length of about 1.2 mm.

Then the tails to be attached to the stern. They were bent into the right shape and fixed on a piece of wood of the same thickness as the stern. Through this an aluminum rod of about 1 mm thick. This rod should prevent solder from flowing into the tube. Aluminium cannot be soldered with normal soft solder. All this secured with tape and then soldered. Finally, excess solder was carefully filed away.
The pre-bent tails for the rudder were clamped on a piece of wood of the same thickness as the rudder and connected with a copper rod. This was soldered to the tails.
 

After filing away excess solder, the rod between the tails was cut loose and the individual parts were brought to the correct length.
This created the hinges ready to be attached to the rudder and stern


I never paint the iron parts (including the cannon barrels) black on my models. You don't see this anywhere on old images, always a kind of dark grey, REVELL matt 46.
 
Because it is far from certain what the workplace at the bow looked like, I had to rely on the rather different opinions of Hoving and de Weerdt.
 
As I mentioned before, the windlass could also be used to secure the anchor cable. The anchor bitt has therefore become superfluous and can therefore be omitted. That gives a lot more space at the bow. That extra space seems necessary to me because there had to be room on the deck of Barents' expedition ship to accommodate two boats. The boats could not be towed because they had to sail constantly between large ice floes. Moreover, Gerrit de Veer writes twice in his book that the boats had to be put out.
But there is always the possibility that both boats were stacked on top of each other.
 Hoving omits the anchor bitt and puts the windlass close to the foremast. De Weerdt does place the anchor beting together with the windlass. As a result, there is not enough space for the two boats.
 Because I make a model of a pinas, and not the specific ship of Barents, my model can suffice with one boat.
 
The situation on the photo above is entirely my responsibility.
Directly behind the foremast are dubble bitts with a cross-piece, with holes for a number of belaying-pins for attaching the various ropes that come from above and the front. In addition, there is a bittt, necessary for hoisting the yards in the foremast and the windlass.
 
 
 

Sorry, the anchor stock was backwards :

Waiting for a delayed wooden delivery, I received the two eight-thousand pounder giant anchors (test  😁) ;

I've not seem a specific reference to Foreign Service  locations, but I suspect it generally meant any location beyond home waters , particularly the tropics where  repair facilities may be restricted. Clinker built boats were more difficult to repair and WE May (The boats of men of war) cites that in 1800 it was decided that the only cutters to be sent abroad should be Jolly boats. Navy board orders to Dockyards PRO  adm 106/2512 no's 430 440/441.
 
For the purposes of this build the cutter will be issued as carvel built.

9898(2)

9899(2)
 
I do however, have a clinker built 18' cutter (Jolly Boat) ready to serve.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 
 

Post One Hundred and Sixty-Eight
Feeling somewhat miffed about the failure with the Launch I am moving onto one of the 24’ Cutters, if for no other reason than ‘getting back on the horse’ 
I have made 18’ Cutters previously, along with Yawls, and a 24’ Cutter should at least on paper be less fiddly.

4245
Before I had barely got started the tab broke off the transom piece, and once again the stern post broke part way up. This is before I even get to the delicate stem with its planking slot.
 
I am beginning to think that use of 0.8mm Pear is just too thin for the structurally important keel part.
 
It is pertinent that the grain on these parts is horizontal whereas any pressure tends to be lateral. It seems that any pressure, however light,  gives a high risk of breaking these parts.

4243
At least with the 24’ cutter there are two sets provided, and in my case one was cannibalised to get to the keel and frames assembled.

4248
With the fairing completed this is the same point at which things went wrong with the Launch. 
I added further support to the stem before I began planking, and this time I resolved to use pva on the plank edges in addition to ca on the frames.

4252
The first four planks fit into the stem rabbet, or slot, happily without mishap this time. At this point the structure is much stronger, and damage risk to the stem much reduced.

4254
The garboard planks are fitted using 3mm strips.

4256
There is too little room to follow any sort of tick marking for plank shaping, so its basically done by eye. The aim is to get any less than realistic planking strakes below the round of the hull, out of sight.

4258
I achieve this by spiling the last plank.
 
Unlike the Pinnace, removal of the central bulkheads did not result in disassembly of the planking, no doubt due to adding pva along the strake joints.

4259
There is no access to clean inside glue stains during construction so there is inevitably marring present once the bulkheads are removed.

4260
A gentle approach is necessary, I clean the insides initially by damping the excess glue with a small paint brush and gently scraping with a micro chisel.
 
Water is used for the pva and acetone for the ca. very small amounts are used to avoid affecting the main construction.

A little more fettlin’ and I can move onto the next stage.
 
 
B.E.
11/04/2024

Main Breast Backstay Installation
Following on my last post I thought I would share the method I used to install the main breast backstay. With reference to the photo below I started by wrapping the backstay around the main topgallant mast and adjusted the height of the block seized to the end of the backstay to the required height. Once I was happy with the position I used a clamp to hold the backstay in the required position.
 
Maybe I should have seized it to the main topsail mast rather than the main topgallant mast but I am happy with what I have done therefore there is no need for anyone to comment on this aspect / error.

The eyebolts were dry fitted to the main channel, and clamps were used to hold them in place.

In the next photo the inter-block rigging has been added so that the lower block position could be checked with regards to the final belaying point, which is one of the shroud cleats, 2nd one in from the right as indicated by one of the yellow arrows.

Once I was happy with how everything looked the inter-block rigging was removed and then the backstay was seized, as shown by the yellow arrow.

Next the two eyebolts were glued in place. I did trim and then bend the excess eyebolt material under the channel.

The inter-block rigging was then added and the backstay was tensioned. I will belay the rigging to the shroud cleat later on in the rigging process. The un-belayed end of the rigging thread is indicated by the yellow arrow.

 

Not much to say except the deck is planked waiting for glue to set. Tomorrow I'll sand and scrape if I get that done wipe on poly will be applied. Next is reading the instructions and start with another project.
 

Starting chapter 7
 
The first thing I wanted to do, just to get it out of the way...was to get all the gundeck beams made.  I cleaned the char off of all 11 beams now.  Then they were cut to length using the plans as a guide.  I also used the plans to establish where each deck beam is positioned.  For now I will just set them aside and grab them as I need them.   The last thing I wanted was to have to stop what I am doing just to clean char off a beam and cut it to length.  Its a comfort knowing they are all done and ready.
 
The photo below shows all the beams just resting on the deck clamp.
 

This allowed me the opportunity to cut all the templates and see what the planking scheme would look like so I can adjust it now rather than later.   I think its a good plan as is...and I wont make any adjustments, yet.
 

 
With the beams all ready and at hand, I could start making the cabins on the lower platform at the bow.
 
Each bulkhead will be made in two layers.   Both are 1/32" thick and are laser etched with a bunch of reference lines.   Now it would be easy enough to make these from scratch but this does make the building process quicker.  Especially since very little of these will be seen.  Below are the sections for the carpenters cabin on the starboard side.   It shows both sides.  I cleaned the char from the inside edges of the door panels and then glued up each layer.
 
Before I add any details I made sure they fit on the model.  I adjusted them to fit nicely in position and adjusted the heights etc.   This is why it is good to have those deck beams handy.  You need to have the first two beams in position to get the heights correct.
 

 
Once I was sure they fit on the model OK (see the deck layout for details), I started added the hinges and stanchions.

First I added the upright timbers which are either 1/8" x 1/8" strips cut to length or 3/32" x 3/32" strips.  The plans show which.   Then I added the door handles and hinges.   Make sure to add the handles on both sides of the door.   And be careful to put them on the correct side based on which way the doors open.
 
The outside view of both bulkheads completed.
 

The interior of the carpenters cabin detailed.

 
Finally they were glued into position on the model.  I placed the side with the doors first.  Just use your planking of the lower platform to position it straight and against the stanchion on the fcastle bulkhead.  
Then I added the smaller section along the aft edge of the platform.  This will probably need the outside edge to be sanded because I laser cut them longer than needed.   So adjust the side that butts up against the frames.   But remember, there isnt any planking on the inboard side of the frames so it is expected to show a gap.   Just get it as even and consistent as you can.  
 
The carpenters cabin and boatswains cabin completed.
 
Note how the top of the bulkheads against the deck clamp are flush with the top of the deck clamp.    
 

Next up will be the sail room.  But that needs to be built a different way because of the louvered walls for ventilation. 
 
Chuck
 
 
 

When I lived in Port Hedland (NW coast) the iron ore trains were 3 km (2 miles) long. One broke down in the middle of nowhere and a repair engine was sent to get it going again. Unfortunately, the location he was given was the far end of the train, so he slammed into it going umpty ump miles an hour, 3 km too early.
 
Steven
 
PS: Probably enough Australiana - back to our scheduled programme.

You're welcome to it, mate.  Another one, when I've f...ed something up is that I feel "lower than a snake's belly in a wagon rut."
 
Speaking of modern 'wagons', there is something I learned today about Outback conveyances like the one pictured below ...
 

In Flanders we call something like this "goedendag" or  "good day" ... bang... 
 
Me too  
 
The cannon deck has been cleaned up a bit.
Not as it once was, but a bit cleaner if someone later looked in through any openings.

Before I can continue, I first have to determine the base of the fore castle.
So first now thinking, searching, testing and try out 

 
 

After the leechline and bowline blocks had worked out so well, we continued with the tricing lines of the yard tackles pendants.

The block on the yard tackle pendant was hauled to the yard with the outer tricing line and the lower block with hooks was hauled with the inner tricing lines to the shrouds to be hooked/fastened there. Unlike other load rigs, the yard tackles were not struck off when not in use, but were also used as to support the braces in strong winds or for other purposes.

And so that the whole thing doesn't get too boring, this time the blocks are 7" and 8", i.e. 2 mm in my scale. But it doesn't matter, it works just like the other 🙂

First on the filed needle, then stropped in as usual ...



... and succeding the function test.



Fits. Then, as usual, tied the eyes with the pointed clamping tweezers and quickly put them all on the leash, such a stopped block is too quickly inhaled.



And to show that you can get these blocks to the yard even with sausage fingers like mine ...



... you just have to make sure that you …



… get not tangled. And already finished.



You can clearly see the noticeable difference between the 2 mm block of the tricing line and the 2.5 mm blocks of the leechline.

The tricing line is one of the thinnest in the entire rigging, here hanging loosely with the yard tackle in use ...



... and with the yard tackle pulled up.



For the sake of completeness, the inner tricing line next to the 4 mm clue line block.



XXXDAn

I got the extra printed plans back and have completed the build board. I got a 3/4" (19mm) thick MDF board for the base. I also put two 1"x2" boards length wise underneath to ensure the board does not go out of shape. It also elevates the base in case I want to use clamps for some insane reason. The plans were attached using a 3M spray mount adhesive. It worked really well.
 
I also put together the keel support jigs. On to the stem next.
 

Someone was looking for places to get copies of the plans in another thread.  I got 3 done at the local UPS store while I waited.  Only $4 per sheet.  I took the plans to them on a USB.
Worked out pretty good...   thought I would let everyone know....

Mizzen Mast Backstays
I seem to have spent quite a bit of time in the shipyard but there is no much sign of any real progress.
 
I am currently working on adding the  various backstays and the preparation work is quite time consuming. I have moved the Indy to a different work area which allows me all round access which is much better when adding the rigging. The down side is it not possible to take good photos due to the open backgrounds.
 
I started with the mizzen mast and this was the best photo showing the mizzen topsail and topgallant backstays.

Taking close up pictures is not such a problem and the next photo shows the upper mizzen topsail mast platform where the topsail backstays are positioned and dropped down through the rear crosstrees.

And now a photo showing the backstay deadeyes.

Main Mast Breast Backstay
The fore and main breast backstays are quite involved, each requiring a three block belaying arrangement. In the next photo I have shown the two upper blocks.

The next shows all three blocks and this backstay arrangement is now ready to be installed. However before I do this I need to make up the other 3 breast backstays arrangements.

Lots of options including the three below.  From The History of British Sea Ordnance Volume 2, page 382.  He gives the following description of each.
 
Illustrations of breechings and gun-tackles on a 1795 pattern carriage, redrawn from Congreve's Treatise on the Mounting of sea Service Ordnance.    
Top: gun tun in.  Center: gun run out and secured.  Bottom: gun run in, secured, and housed.
Allan
 

Well, I've made some progress. Glued lengths of red ribbon onto the roof awning to make the roof alternately red and white stripes. But I don't think I'll do it that way again. I've found my wife's wavy scissors won't cut cloth, only paper, so the 'fringe' won't be able to match the roof. So I'll probably just paint the stripes on instead.
 
Also added the mesh netting at the railing and learnt a few things. Next time I'll add the mesh behind the rail before I put the rail on the model. It'll look better. I did this with the rail on the aft half of the vessel - it looks and works better.

And I'm fixing an edging to the deck to cover the edge of the plywood. I discovered some REALLY thin veneer languishing neglected at the Men's Shed and it's ideal - so I've commandeered it all for myself.


Should do for a large number of future models of this paddlewheeler. And it's OK, because they'll be sold as fundraisers for the Men's Shed and the volunteers who operate her. 
 
Steven

I don't want to clog up Johann's wonderful build log by continuing the comments on museums, but it is all about money. 
 
And the continual dumbing down, like you see on TV documentaries, where the makers are attempting to catch the interest of a generation used to stimulation from fast moving images.  So many museums are having to reduce their displays and focus instead on eye catching and interactive exhibitions to catch the interest of young people - and let's hope they are successful in this. 
 
In some museums, I've found, a room that may once have been cluttered with many artefacts has been transformed to highlight a single object, surrounded by supporting information to truly bring out the object's importance and relevance to historical record.  Done well, this is brilliant, as long as specialists like us have an opportunity to get into the storerooms to see what we want to find out about.  And again, this is about money, in order to finance a museum's cataloguing, storing, and archiving costs.
 
Nipper
 

It seems that almost all museums are headed towards "minimal" displays of artifacts in favor of computer screens and "immersive" things like videos.   So it's just not naval ones but many aircraft museums along natural history ones are doing this.  Not sure the whole reason but some is probably due to damage by visitors wanting to "touch" them.   Pretty sad, IMO.