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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Canute
    Arrr, nice work on the hardware, me buck-o! And the chest hath rope handles to boot. Very weak imitation of Cap'n Steve's comments. Hope he doesn't mind.
  2. Canute
    Augie, thanks for the comment. I've been collecting a number of stains and was planning on testing them all on the kit wood remnants. After reading through any number of the other build logs, I can see the wisdom of doing so. Helps to minimize surprises. Should be installing the 1/8" braces today, too.
  3. Canute
    Bill, thanks for the explanation. When I get to the stage of building a Connie or any Mamoli kit, this will be very handy. Have a Merry Christmas.
  4. Canute
    Captain Steve and Matt, thanks. I think I'll be adding the extra braces for the stem and stern mold frames. The rest of them look solid enough for the fairing. The glue on the mold frames is drying overnight. I'll probably add the bracing tomorrow, even though it is Christmas Eve. The Admiral is working the night shift, so I should be able to get some time in the 'yard. I did the stem taper with the plan template, my dividers and a little contour template I cut out of the plan. I copied the appropriate section of the plan onto card stock; right above the cutout template was the dimensions and shape of the keel cross section. I marked out the stem with the template, marked the depth to be removed with my dividers and then slowly sanded the stem down, using the contour template to check my progress. The stem looks better than my picture shows. My card stock templates: Tapered stem: Thanks for the fairing tip; I would probably have started on it like eating corn on the cob, from one end. And I already got some wax for the mold frames. Thanks for looking.
  5. Canute
    Matt, check out the build logs, especially CaptainSteve's, for ideas. In this scale, you can run amok with details.
  6. Canute
    CaptainSteve, thanks. I'm cutting the 1/8" bracing to 1 1/32" lengths. I'll just chop off a few more to experiment. Ship building sure does exercise the brain cells.
  7. Canute
    Mattie, I am in awe. Beeyootiful work! And "junk in the trunk", eh? I can't wait.
  8. Canute
    ROFLMAO,Clare. The term "pinball wizard" also comes to mind. And this is 1/96 scale? I am in awe.
  9. Canute
    Captain Steve, thanks for the like. Matt, thanks. Since you've done a couple of builds prior to this boat, you're "highly experienced." This is build #1 for me. I managed to get a little time in the 'yard to work on my rabbet, amongst all the holiday preps. Got that groove reoriented, but then I puzzled over how to sweeten up the surfaces of the rabbet. I have some thin, square sanding sticks that only have grit on 2 opposing sides, so I'm proceeding with "all due diligence" to make a nice smooth inside of the rabbet. I'd like my planks to nest into the keel nicely; no gaps to sink the boat. Looking ahead to constructing the mold; did anyone add extra bracing on the mold to hold the frames perpendicular to the false keel or will the 1/8" x 1/8" braces be sufficient. As a model railroader, I tend to approach bracing with a "belt and suspender" mentality. No such thing as too much bracing; sort of like having too many clamps. Thanks for looking.
  10. Canute
    Jonny, Merry Christmas to you and yours. Hope Santa treats you well. The ship is looking good, mate!
  11. Canute
    Beats gnawing on them ala the beaver. But, not by much!
  12. Canute
    Blue Ensign and Mark, you're both quite right. We don't have perfect books, but the quest for that information you want, need and desire is a major part of the why we delve through them. So, some sources are better than others. Finding the nugget is a moment to savor. As the poet sang "What a long, strange trip it's been..."
  13. Canute
    Finally, I cut the rabbet into the keel. I cut it as a symmetrical groove, since the pictures I've been looking at all seemed to be configured so. But, while testing it with my trusty 1/16" scrap plank, I sensed that the rabbet should not be symmetrical. The plank edges should lay in the rabbet. Here's the rabbet: My tester: Copied the stem tapering pattern onto some 90# card stock. I also started fitting the molds. They're loose right now. Looking at the transom board, what were they thinking when they lasered the label onto it? I think I'm going to thin it and lay some nice boards over it. Lessons learned: Keep the cutting edges sharp. I love the nice, thin slice that sharp #17 blade can make for cutting rabbets. More light in that dungeon of a work space - actually a corner of my utility room. These old eyes aren't Hawkeye anymore. Thanks for stopping by.
  14. Canute
    Jonny, I like how you think. The Admiral only said she wanted the table available for yuletide festivities. She doesn't want you lock, stock and barrel, too. so, a give a little, get a little going on here. Keep brain somewhat engaged on ship building. Think happy thoughts. Nice cutter! I would think as long as it was for personal use, you'd be OK, but see the lawyers/barristers if worried about the legalities. Have a Merry Christmas and a Joyous New Year!
  15. Canute
    What was on the label? Model Master/Testors makes a gloss and a flat; guess a satin coat from them makes sense. For most models, use a clear gloss (Gloss coat, Pledge with Future, Klear) for a coating under decals. Smooth surface avoids silvering of the decals. Everything gets some amount of weathering, so a satin or flat final coat looks best.
  16. Canute
    Model Master paints are made by Testors. They are more military a/c or armo(u)r related. Come in both enamel and acrylic, although the acrylics have a more limited selection. You'll see many paints with FS numbers. These are Federal Spec numbers, used in the US post WWII. If it's a 3XXXX, it's flat. If its a 1XXXX, it's a gloss. Don't think anybody makes satin finish paints in the FS2XXXX line. HTH
  17. Canute
    Something about holding that book or magazine; works for me. That being said, some kit producers in other hobby fields now do their instructions on CD or ask you to download off their sites. The nicest aspect is the instruction pictures are in color. How many of us have tried to interpret a grey scale picture to get correct part placement. And the instructions can be spelled out, instead of some cryptic phrases. Closer to a practicum. And I can prop the tablet/laptop on the bench and work from it. It's another tool in your tool kit.
  18. Canute
    Gents, thanks for the likes. It's been too long. Between the holiday and some real world "gotta do's", I have accomplished zilch in the ol' boatyard. Keith, that started me thinking about the boat's colors. Right now, I'm planning to stain the frames and such a Golden Oak. Show the wood off. Ala Cap'n Steve. Do I paint the outside stock (meaning as specified in the instructions) or do I do something different. This launch is a typical ship's boat of the late 18th Century, isn't it. Would the Captain use it as his "Barge"? I'm leaning towards a Forest Green in place of the grey. Would that shade be appropriate? I have a sharp knife and chisel and will begin the rabbet on the keel tomorrrow. The keel segments are glued up under a short section of used rail, about 15-20 pounds, to reduce the likelihood of warping.
  19. Canute
    I'm having the same issue, no visible attachments. Any possibility of a re-do, please. I'm running on a current version of Fire Fox, FWTW.
  20. Canute
    Welcome to MSW. Very nice joinery.
  21. Canute
    Keep on truckin' with the bomb vessel. And good luck with the back issue. I fully comprehend your problem. My years in Phantoms have given me similar problems of a non surgical repair nature.
  22. Canute
    Rob, the file appears to be rounding your inside corners. Use your chisel and or #11 blade to carefully "sweeten up" those corners. Nice work on the frames.
  23. Canute
    Greetings all, My first foray into building a wooden vessel is this gem. I've been lurking a little while, as I've been evaluating my tool chest and selecting this build. Over the years, I've done any number of wooden structures and car kits, as a model railroader. Thought I should learn how to twist straight boards into boats aka planking. In my prior endeavors, we sealed and stained before we put any glue on any surfaces. Plus we had to fight warping wood ( due to using water based paints) with extra bracing. Should I treat the wood before any construction? Since this is primarily a basswood boat, should I apply some MinWax preconditioner? How about the cherry frames? Since I'll have to soak these to bend them, I suspect they get taken care of after the boat come off the mold. A few of the obligatory pix are attached: Kit box Some of the wood
  24. Canute
    Jonny, Looks good to me. White is always a tough color to get good coverage. And in acrylics, even tougher. Maybe you should tell folks you're going for a "weathered" look. I'd like to do a bomb vessel at some point, so your log is much appreciated. Thanks for sharing.
  25. Canute
    Gee whiz, Cap'n. That's only half my top speed. On a good day. Get better soon, but be safe.

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