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Canute

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Great catch on the plan profile. And a nice start on your build.
  2. Hi Jesse, your work is excellent. Syren will be a beauty.
  3. Bill, that's one handsome ship. And your detailing is excellent. Thanks for sharing.
  4. John, check a well stocked model RR shop. Preiser makes unpainted figures in HO scale, which is 1/87 scale. You may be able to adapt some. There are around 10-15 brands listed in the Walters HO Reference Book - their catalog. Check them out.
  5. Richard, take a look at this topic. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9150-readingdecoding-mamoli-rigging-charts/?hl=%2Bmamoli+%2Brigging+%2Bplans Bill is translating Mamoli's Italian instructions for rigging USS Constitution. But it looks like a good sequence. It may be TMI; however, it has some decent pictures.
  6. Harvey, you suffer from a case of TMB; that is, Too Many Birthdays!
  7. Matt, really like the distressing you did to the deck under the carriage wheels. Looks good.
  8. Matt, those cannon look great. Guess the Nutz Brother will have some alterations to the ports. Keep 'em working and out of the grog.
  9. Mike, you'll get plenty of help. Just ask in your build log. Folks around here are very helpful.
  10. John, I'd only prime if I was painting a yellow or red color. These are more translucent than the other shades we use. White or light gray primers under the yellow. You may also want to get some sanding papers with adhesive backing. And get some wood popsicle sticks or coffee stirrers. Make yourself some small, narrow sanding sticks. Cut the stick ends to shapes you need.
  11. OC, was the hull surface clean? If casting oils, release agents or dust are on the plastic, the paint won't stick. Get some dishwashing liquid and warm water and wash your hull. Let it dry and then paint. A good brand I like here in the US is "Dawn". No scents, cuts grease.
  12. John, I'd definitely seal the wood first. I've used Scalecoat(a model RR paint brand), that stuff model airplane builders use (clear dope and talc) and stuff from local craft stores (Michael's, etc.). Lately, I've used the craft store stuff; more sealer for less bucks! Apply and then steel wool it smooth. Should knock down your "furrys". Airbrush the Floquil: thin it to the consistency of skim milk. I think a 60% paint/40% thinner will do. Mix up a small batch and use the little cup to hold some of your mix.Test shoot it on some cardboard to see how it sprays. Do not pour the mix back into the original bottle! I haven't used retarder with solvent paints before so I've no clue. I use rattle cans for my primer so I can't tell you the correct mix. I have cans of white, light gray and red oxide (excellent hull bottom and brick color for structures)
  13. Looking good, Jerry. I can see Ragnar raiding in this boat.
  14. Grant, she's a beauty. Super joinery and wood selections. Someday....
  15. The Battle of the Coral Sea, first naval battle fought entirely with naval aircraft, began in the Pacific during WW II. The outcome was considered a Japanese tactical victory, but ultimately a strategic one for the Allies.
  16. Love that little carronade, Matt. Well done on that elevating screw.
  17. I've read that the French built better looking ships than the English. Looking at a book I can read without needing a translator will make studying these much simpler. I really can see the allure of these French builds. I'd like to follow along.
  18. thanks for the comments and likes, fellows. Squirrel Whisperer, your wish is my command... This is my take on Cathead's stem blocking. I cut the part outlines from the parts sheet, marked them to show where the planks should fall and clamped them onto the stem. These are for the sheer strake and next few planks. I have a second set for the lower planks. Sitting with the Admiral eating breakfast this morning, she asked how the Launch was going. I said I had to bend the ends in boiling water and affix them. She asked why I wasn't using the blow-dryer to bend the ends. Hmm, the Darlin' is on to something here. So port side plank #2 is hot air bent. One kind of overall shot. I'm tapering the edges by sanding the inside edges to tighten up the outside edges of the planks. Another Maestro Chuck technique. Matt, I've been thinking about that spread issue. Methinks the cherry frames don't sit as tight to the forms as they should, hence the spread. I may tack glue the center seat or affix a light weight spreader clamp across the thwarts. Think light but strong.
  19. Most excellent, Mobbsie. Are you planning on a discussion for the hemming of your sails?
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