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Everything posted by Canute
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Looking good, Jon. Keep after it. As far as adding light, you almost can't have too much, especially as we get older. When I went into the AF at age 20 or so, I was Hawk-eye, 20/10 or so. Twenty some odd years later, I flunked the vision part of a flight physical. I needed glasses! The more light, the easier it is for the eyes to adapt. Nowadays, I wear glasses and work under 2 pretty bright lights, one with a magnifying lens built in. That setup helped me when my train club built an N scale diorama for the local county historical museum. I could build laser cut, double hung wood windows with sashes and panes. They were 6 mm by 11 mm. I swore off working in that scale, with that level of detail, after that.
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Matt, I like the idea of a captures ship conversion. Very interesting premise. That being said, I hope you are not planning to impart cannon damage with anything much more than an air-powered BB gun. I have a little experience with assorted weapons. Gunpowder puts lots of oomph behind a given projectile. Remember blowing up plastic ships with firecrackers? This kit could turn into your first scratchbuild, if you get too exuberant. Be careful, brother.
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Buck, I know of what you speak. I want to start selling off my slew of plastic ships. I don't see me building any of them. Makes room for "others", like a Syren or Granado. Or getting some new tool goodie, like a lathe or thickness sander. Ah, well, I can dream...
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If I had a ramp, maybe. The snow is rotten, very thin. But the crust is glare ice. I've a few friends go down with broken wrists and shoulders, thanks to this ice. I'm not a fan of CA, though I have built a wooden freight car or 2 with some medium thick stuff. I use various CA thicknesses on resin, metal/wood, no problem. Wood to wood, I like to use yellow glue. It sets up in less than half an hour and if I screw up (or is that when?), I can undo it with isopropanol. I was pretty careful marking the hood end locations in the stem rabbet, if you look closely at that in my last picture. The garboard does hang past the transom, but not by much. I want to finesse that plank in it's place.
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Go Speed Racer Go! Wait a minute, better start a new log, Matey! I do like cutters, though. Sleekness. Better get an Italian English dictionary, while you're at it. Although, in looking at the Mamoli instructions for my Connie section, you may just stick with the drawings.
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Hornet, I've used a cutting mat for years. Cut wood, plastic, card stock on it. And they're a little insurance, too. Spilled glues and paints on it. Cleaned up OK. I think the mat will protect your blades better than the melamine. Try out a half page or page size. They're not too dear.
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Is there a better #11 blade handle
Canute replied to roach101761's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I checked the configurations of 4 of my knives (3 Xacto, 1?). All my Xactos are single slot and hold blades well. The mystery handle is an X config., but I use it for chisel blades (#17s, I believe). -
Phil, almost any wood or plastic I cut over a 1/16 thick, I saw cut, usually in a miter box. I own 2 choppers (One a NWSL , the other, some knock-off ) and they're great for thin stock. Cutting anything over that 16th, I find the blade deflects and the cuts get out of wack. Hence the saw/miter box combo. It's essentially a hand powered chop saw. Might save you a few trips to the True Sander. And balsa is very tough to cut, way too soft. I might use it internally to hold a structural shape, but it's too weak to use anyplace else.
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Well, as I was looking over the frames last night, I saw that I had to redo one, due to a crack right in the bend. No way I could sand it up and make it work. Redid that frame and began transferring the plank lines from the mold bulkheads onto the outer faces of the frames.Skinny marking square works well for that. This morning, I boiled up my port garboard and sheet planks. I think I have a good bend on the garboard; lines up with my pencil lines on the stem. I had a little problem holding the sheer plank to the stem. Seems the clamp I was trying to use had a taper on the tip, so I grabbed a metal binder clip to hold the plank. Bending the garboard and sheer. Faulty clamp. It has a taper reversed to what I needed. Not really a bad clamp. The fix. You can see the pencil ticks for the hood ends in the rabbet on the stem. I think I'm going to get and make up more of those little binder clips before I launch off into actually gluing my planks up. My driveway may defrost by Sunday night and I won't have to do a slalom course to get down.
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Tuff, Tadeusz showed some pictures of HMS Victory's copper plating in a log: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9520-decision-timeto-copper-or-not-to-copper/?hl=%2Bcoppering+%2Bhulls#entry282136. It's the 8th entry.
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Squirrel Whisperer, outstanding look for those tools! I'll have to pop over to my local gun shop and "git me sum". And which black paint? I have some Floquil Weathered Black, but that will get used up or dried out one of these days. You continue to amaze me, every time I open your log. Well Done!
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The Grando, according to the AOTS by Goodwin, carried 1/2 lb antipersonnel swivels. Have to have something to protect the crew. Numbers range from 12 to 18. See page15 in that book. They had pedestals arrayed along the rails. The General Arrangement drawings show 4 each side of the quarterdeck and 4 arrayed around the forecastle. May want to beef up a few of your railings.
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Might toss 'em some acorns or whatever nut trees grow around Portland. Here we have hickorys and walnuts. Careful driving.
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Making filler harder
Canute replied to jdiven's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Is that stainable? I've used the red stuff on plastic, works well. But, it was getting painted after it dried and sanded. Painted up well.. -
Tips and Tricks for Airbrushing
Canute replied to JPett's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I'd recommend adding a water trap on any compressor. I read about them years ago, added one to my Craftsman compressor and haven't had any issues with moisture since. It's good insurance.- 39 replies
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Make it look like brass
Canute replied to rcmdrvr's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Don, you can look for Testors Model Master Metalizer Brass lacquer paint; bottle, no spray cans. Its non buffing, so it may not be very shiny. Also, Alclad2 has a shiny brass airbrush only lacquer. For Alclad, surface prep is key. That may be a route for shiny ship-board brass. -
Matt, you're a renaissance man! Or Jeffersonian. Whatever, such talents. The netting is a great idea. Two-timing, nah! Just preplanning. Ranger as pirate sounds interesting. Go for it. But save the instructions for the pictures. There are some translations required, but after the Italian to English translation, you'll also need to translate that into squirrel-speak. I'm debating whether to work on the Connie section or the MS Picket Boat. I'm an ACW buff, so the Picket boat may win. And as the Cap'n suggests, consult with the good Dr Per, too
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Well, the frames are shaped, dried, sanded and spot glued to the mold. I expect to fair the transom tomorrow. Starting to look like a boat. I looked at fitting the larboard garboard plank, (say that 3 times fast!) since I had previously marked up the stem for fitting the hood ends. More boiled wood.
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Mobbsie, can do easy, checking up on that build. Looking forward to it. I had a buddy where I worked who built a model trebuchet. Said it was the heavy artillery of the Middle Ages. I thought it was pretty interesting. He wanted to build a real working one on my farm. The Admiral said no, might scare the horses.
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