Canute
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Everything posted by Canute
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Rob, Nice crisp shots. And I second using a tripod.
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Like Eamon said, too. Follow the doctor's orders and don't shirk the PT, once you can do some.- 215 replies
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- convulsion
- caldercraft
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Gene, Looking good. Keep up the good work. Slow & steady works better than fast.
- 15 replies
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- la candelaria
- occre
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You might want to try putting some fine sandpaper under your metal templates to eliminate slipping. I did it to a steel ruler that I use for both marking and cutting out pieces. Might also consider cutting out those little triangular glue tabs and curved parts with a small chisel blade. Might be easier than pressing down a #11 with your index finger.
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Jonny, you might also try Mozilla Firefox. I've used it for years and haven't had any bad incidents. IE is too easy to hack, apparently.
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Sort of been on hiatus, due to a nasty head cold. Mostly scheming and dreaming. I do have some thin basswood on order, so I can jump onto the transom fix. I did get a belated, surprise Christmas present of a Mamoli Constitution cross section. More fun!
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Clare, I was looking at #6 or so bird shot (shotgun shell ammo), since I have some dark gray stuff. Unfortunately, it's about 3 mm diameter - way too big. Might work in 1/4" scale. The deck and rails look good. Are you using Shipyard paint?
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Ouch! Looks like my black case one; which is quite ancient. Another good reason to upgrade the old piece, since it won't fit or work with any of the newer accessories. I got one of these kits as a surprise Christmas present, so I'm closely following. Can't do much else with a rotten head cold. Making dust in my wee "shop" aggravates it.
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The Bondo Spot Putty works well. Doesn't shrink or crack, sands smooth. And you get a lot more for your money. Sticks to polystyrene, PVC pipe, ABS.
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Cathead, good thought. I ended up using some sanding sticks I got from MicroMark some time back. These skinny sticks only have grit on 2 opposite sides; theother sides are clean. I got right up to the sheer tab and faired the forms that way. I did see the beginnings of a notch in places, but it's not the most critical surface. Still playing with fixing the transom board.
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Ski, put some masking tape around those ports to protect the details. The old kits, with raised details, are a pita to work with, but I saved some plastic car kit details with this little trick. And you might try some Bondo glazing and spot putty. Got a 4.5 oz tube for $5-6. Sands OK, doesn't crack. Has some odor, so be careful.
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- Constitution
- Revell
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Jack, Glad you're back in action. Great start with the documentation. Nice palette of wood colors.
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Very nice work there, Matt. You keep raising the bar every time I look in.
- 425 replies
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- bounty launch
- model shipways
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very cool. Another option for the lens is Mod-Podge. Available at arts n crafts places. Dries clear.
- 396 replies
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- Idea
- Bright Idea
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Matt, Minwax is my stain of choice, too. I did a quick test of conditioned and unconditioned basswood with some Natural and Golden Oak stains. The conditioned wood is on the upper side of the board, my hen scratch shows the color swatches: I like the Golden Oak after conditioning the wood, the natural was too light. Applying the Golden Oak to untreated basswood was just too brown; I want to show the sun-bleached wood. Several other stains I have on hand are just too dark already. So, my plan is to pre-stain the insides of the planks before shaping and bending. If the process lightens the stain, I'll re apply. I'm working on the transom with a buddy who builds high end doll house furniture as one of his side "businesses". The transom will get some veneer applied; I think the planking should cover it.
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Quite the artiste, Cap'n. The sails look perfectly ratty and worn. Let me add another outstanding vote.
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- bounty launch
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Cap'n, excellent work. More goodies to add to the launch. Thanks!
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Cap'n, what were they thinking? Good call on the veneer. I'm off to my local big box hardware stores to seek out any and all manner of supplies, mostly stains. I've added it to the list. I may have a better shot with my little hole-in-the-wall "Ace Hardware". They carry number drills and brass shapes, along with the usual hardware stuff. We shall see. Wish me good hunting!
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Matt and Cap'n Steve, thanks for the info. More technique for my growing bag o' tricks! I'm searching my stash of basswood, down in the basement, for the appropriate wood sizes. As a card carrying, kit-building model railroader, I accumulated a fair pile. Also a lot of plastic strip. Anyway, I plan to redo the transom. That laser etch label just bugs me. The Shipyard HM Cutter Alert kit showed up yesterday. I have this thing for 10-16 gun cutters. I'll need various thicknesses of cardboard to add body to the kit parts, when I start on this little jewel.
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Matt, it was touchy sanding around the sheer tabs, but I think the mold looks pretty good. No bumpy spots. The frames will be twisted in the appropriate directions, when I put them on. Did you say you ran the frames from side to side or just do one side at a time? The transom is next. I don't think I'll use the kit part. Lose the billboard, but also the taper amount. I think I'll trace the piece on a 1/8" blank and then plank it with 1/4" x 1/32" planks.
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Pops, he must use an SR-71.
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