ccoyle

Very neat work!

44 minutes ago, David W K said:

when we had a tornado come through our neighborhood which destroyed our house and unfortunately all of my finished and under construction ships

😳😳😳

20 minutes ago, GrandpaPhil said:

Thank you very much @ccoyle for starting me down this road with your HMV builds!

You're welcome, and congratulations!

Just follow the directions here. The directions are pinned in each build log category.

Cheers!

Nice job on your first model! Nothing breeds success like success.

1 hour ago, modeller_masa said:

In my opinion, the posts are violating in two terms; (1) The project seems incomplete because it is frequently updated.

Images of incomplete builds and loose photos get culled on a regular basis (where 'culled' = whenever a moderator gets around to it!).

I've always had a bit of a soft spot for Arizona because I was born there (the state, that is) and because I built the ancient Revell box-scale kit as a kid. Good luck on your project!

This one is looking pretty impressive, both size-wise and finish-wise.

I'm even more impressed now!

I love sailing prams! Good luck with this excellent kit.

It's true that if you look at real copper sheathing on extant sailing ships, such as the Chas W Morgan at Mystic, the nailing is barely perceptible, if at all. I've seen good-looking coppered hulls done with copper tape, either cut into individual plates or simply scored, and with the copper simulated by using metallic copper spray paint (I think some BlueJacket display models have been made in that fashion). In my mind, you are justified in using whatever method looks good to you.

7 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

I suppose each culture/country has its own way of doing things.

We do not see Japanese wood kits very often, and this one seems like a puzzle to put together.

I think this is an individual thing rather than one of cultural difference. Woody Joe kits, for example, are pretty standard POB affairs, and I have seen many scratch builds done by Japanese builders that are done using the usual POF methods. The Okumoto lineup is designed to make POF style models more accessible to average modelers (like me). They are indeed more like putting a puzzle together than doing a true POF model, but that's fine for me -- I like putting puzzles together and have neither the tools, space, nor skills for doing standard POF builds.

If all goes well moving forward, I plan to add a few "personal touches" to this model to make it a small step up from an out-of-the-box build. Stay tuned!

I have all of the frames completed at this point, and I looked up Mr. Okumoto-san's videos on YouTube. Unfortunately, he did not provide any instruction on fairing the frames; he might have mentioned fairing, but of course the narration is in Japanese, so I had no way of knowing. Interestingly, though, the frames in the video did look like they had been faired, so I'm leaning toward doing the interior fairing before mounting the frames, because as Jason has noted, it will be near impossible to do the job once the frames are glued to the keel.

On 1/5/2023 at 4:57 PM, ibozev said:

For the bolt ropes I decided to use glue it with a diluted PVA and not to sew them. For sure the right way is to sew the bolt rope on the cloth, just like in this post, but for my Polaris I think the 0.15mm raw thread will look out of scale with the 0.50mm brown bolt rope.

Good decision. I have always opted out of sewing of any kind on my sails for exactly this reason. Correctly scaled stitches are simply impossible to replicate at the scale modelers work in (though I do not think they necessarily look bad if a modeler decides to include them). With care, it is even possible to glue the bolt ropes directly to the edges of a sail, as you can see in the accompanying image.

You are approaching the finish line on this one!

30 minutes ago, RossR said:

Regarding sails in general, some companies include them and some do not.

True dat. I think it is more commonplace for kits to include sailcloth and patterns rather than sewn sails, but yeah, there is no industry standard on this.

1 hour ago, realworkingsailor said:

my skis abruptly stopped in the freshly blown crud, but made no prior mention of it to me, so I kept going.  It felt like I was hurled into the “snow”

I laughed when I read that, but only because once upon a time during one of my extremely limited number of ski trips, I had a similar fall -- went off a groomed trail into some deep powder. Skis plunged deeply into the soft powder, followed quickly by upper torso/face. No injuries, thankfully. Of such episodes are memories made!

Thanks for that tip!

For hole punching, I acquired a Japanese screw punch a couple of years ago. It is likewise a very useful tool, though when shopping for one, one needs to be careful not to end up with one of the inferior Chinese-made clones.

The confectionery tools you linked to are very similar to the dapping tool set I have described in some of my build logs. It's good to know that modelers have options when it comes to adapting a variety of tools to our particular art. Spotting tools used by manicurists are similarly useful.

50 minutes ago, kirill4 said:

Das he have any thread / building report here to place this question?

You can always get a member's attention by using the @ symbol. Example:

1 hour ago, kirill4 said:

Sometimes it looks like these coils they don' t belong to the stays, but they are some separate parts

Hey, @Ab Hoving, do you have any input on this discussion?

Since the instructions call for scribing, that means that the supplied deck material is already the correct scale thickness. Adding a layer of popsicle sticks will make your finished deck too thick. If anything is to be added at all, it should be a very thin veneer (such planking is available if you shop around). I did scribing on my two Midwest kits, and it does not look bad. It is also pretty easy to do.

4 minutes ago, kirill4 said:

drop it on the SOS forum

No need. Ab is a member here and can be reached by private message.

Very dramatic and well done!

I assume you are speaking of the vendor at Shapeways? I have ordered from a different Shapeways vendor without issue, other than the slow delivery time coming from Canada -- not the vendor's fault. Of course, that experience may not hold true for Model Monkey -- have you tried an internet search for other builds that have used his products?

1 hour ago, drtrap said:

the case will be made of visual quality glass or plastic?

Always be mindful that a glass case of the size needed for Snake will be quite heavy.

I missed the finish of your lovely model -- congratulations!

2 hours ago, Jeff59 said:

You then ease this part onto the deck attachment and lightly glue with thin supper glue, then stretch The Lycra and hook up other end. 👍

Uh-huh. Easy enough to write, probably harder to do. My hat's off to you!