ccoyle

A bit of further progress. All gun blisters complete, along with the oil cooler and air inlet. The latter was a booger to build. I wound up with a part left over. 🤔
 

 
Work on the landing gear is in progress. On the left are the port strut and door. On the right are the parts for the starboard strut and door, just for comparison. Not hard work, but kind of tedious. Once these are done it will be time for wheels.
 

A bit of further progress. All gun blisters complete, along with the oil cooler and air inlet. The latter was a booger to build. I wound up with a part left over. 🤔
 

 
Work on the landing gear is in progress. On the left are the port strut and door. On the right are the parts for the starboard strut and door, just for comparison. Not hard work, but kind of tedious. Once these are done it will be time for wheels.
 

A bit of further progress. All gun blisters complete, along with the oil cooler and air inlet. The latter was a booger to build. I wound up with a part left over. 🤔
 

 
Work on the landing gear is in progress. On the left are the port strut and door. On the right are the parts for the starboard strut and door, just for comparison. Not hard work, but kind of tedious. Once these are done it will be time for wheels.
 

My uncle Stan Dentinger, pictured in your photo bottom row far right, was a ball turret gunner in over 20 missions on Li'l Audrey.

Is it just me, or does the T-26 look like it would be very cramped to fight/drive in?

Is it just me, or does the T-26 look like it would be very cramped to fight/drive in?

Is it just me, or does the T-26 look like it would be very cramped to fight/drive in?

Next build is a Russian T26 converted in Finland.
 
This kit has been in my possession for a long time. The idea was to merge this build with the T26 observation tank (top of the picture)..
But the build is too different, that's why they come in 2 build logs.

The kit and the plan.

The basic error with this model is that the turret is on the wrong side of the hull (Not Mirage's habit, usually their kits are flawless)
This is also why the build of this kit has always been delayed for so long.

 
And I once had the chance to see this tank during a visit to the Parola tank museum in Finland 

Where I also was the proud owner of a Stug III (for a short time 😉)

a Panzer IV

And even a T72

Ps,
I was 7 years younger then...
And If you have the opportunity to go to Finland. Definitely go to Parola (it's worth the effort)
 
Build is started, pictures in next post.
 
 
 

Hi,
 
Part 11 is now up. This is a relatively light one covering only the radiator and the fuel tank.  The exhaust, originally going to be included, is missing from the video as explained below.
 
 
The radiator was pretty straight forward other than the filler/cap is attached to a block which fits into a large cut out in the header tank and the fit is very poor requiring a lot of filling and shaping.
 
Weathering wise only the radiator got some pigments. The header and surround left at base colour stage until fitting, which I am holding off until I can fit the bonnet which needs the drivers cab fitted.
 

 
 
The fuel tank has fit problems also with the filler neck which required lots of filling and sanding also.  I really wanted to try a lot of things with this, some successful, some less so.  It received both sponge and brush chipping, pigments (polished again!) streaking grime (need to improve here and will likely do again once fitted and can do a unifying all over weather) and some fuel staining which was hit or miss.
 

 
 
Now on to the exhaust, I actually filmed this but when I was done I just wasn't happy with it enough to include in the video.  I tried to emulate one of Night Shift exhaust weathering methods and I feel failed miserably.  This style was to use grey and white to show heat affected pipe work.   I ended up trying to recover it by throwing on some rust pigments but that's not what I wanted.
 
Of course Night Shift is a master at what he does and has his particular style so I can't be expected to pull it off first time trying.  I know where I failed and will either strip it back and try again or try a different technique.
 
Oh, the exhaust pipe isn't fixed to the muffler yet until time to fix to exhaust manifold and chassis.
 
  
 
Probably only got 2 or 3 videos to finish it off now.
 
Cheers
Slog

I was hoping you and Derek would get a laugh out of that, but I've sure used your build logs a lot and appreciate all the helpful suggestions.  Your write ups and photos are very well done and excellent for teaching various methods.
 
The manual says to use 0.25mm natural thread to rig the wheel to the tiller, but looking at it, I couldn't see how it would feed through the tiny blocks.  I usually rub a little CA into the end of a thread to make it easier to feed through a hole, so I did that, and then measured diameter.  I got numbers that averaged to around 0.4mm, not 0.25mm.  So the thread not only looked a little larger, it was a little larger.  I thought about using the 0.10mm thread, but I think the 0.25 will look much better.
 
I have been cleaning out the holes in the blocks with a #79 drill which is about 0.36mm if I did the conversion right.  I tried putting the 0.25mm thread through this hole and there was no way it was going to fit.  So based on my measurements, I decided to try a #76 drill bit, which is little over 0.5mm diameter.  I was a little surprised I was able to drill out the hole without the block crumbling, but the pear wood block held up fine.  After that I was able to feed the 0.25mm thread through the hole, so now I know what to do.  
 
I also assembled the ships wheel and have it temporarily sitting on the deck.  I'll get to use my new flush cutter to trim off excess brass rod.
 
 

It's been well over a month with no updates. Had some other priorities and rat lines take a lot of time as well, never ending knots.  
 
I finished the ratlines for the lower masts, except for the futtock strops.  Here are a few images.
 

 

 

 

 

 
More rat lines to follow for the futtock shrouds, and topmasts. 
 
Robert

Another update after a while: Fife rail with pumps finished, work begins on cabin trunk.
 

Fixed it. Finished the bow section and now onto the transom extension pieces. That is about as far as I can go until I get the waterline drawing jig and the rest of my supplies.

Back at it!   First of all, yes, Keith, I received the vise, but haven't set it up yet.  It was missing the liners, but the ebay seller found some replacements and sent them to me at his own expense.  I was thankful!
So to get back to work, I finished the rudder, and "copper-plated" it.  I positioned it on the hull via some scotch tape, just to see how it looks, and I'm pleased with how it turned out!
Next, I painted the hull.  I think I need to find some instruction on how to paint and finish wood!  The pictures below show the 2nd coat of paint, then sanding with 400 grit, then the 3rd coat of paint.  I was surprised at how much paint came off after sanding.  I think I need to use 1000 or higher grit for the next sanding pass.
My goal for this model has always been to show off the masts and rigging, and I'm not so much worried about the hull, since it won't be seen as much as you look down on it.  So I just want it to look fairly smooth, with no obvious globs of paint or major defects.   
After a few more rounds of sanding and painting, I'll be ready to copper the bottom.  The kit only sent 14 inches of tape instead of the 14 feet required, per the parts list, so I am waiting for Model-Expo to send more copper tape, then I'll get started. (I'm a little intimidated by the prospect of adhering 100's of little pieces of tape to the hull, but I've got some tweezers that might come in handy!)
 
The rudder!  (I realized my inability to neatly wrap Christmas presents carries over into neatly wrapping copper tape!  But I'm ok with how it looks!)

 
2nd coat of paint (will need many more!)

 
After sanding with 400 grit

 
3rd coat of paint.  I'll sand using 1000 or higher next time.  Hopefully won't need too many more coats of paint.  

 
 

I finished up the rest of the fillers for the bow this morning.  I'm still noticing some high spots on them and a couple spots on the stern ones that need more sanding. But I already put the dremel away and vacuumed up the saw dust from the kitchen table.  I live in an apartment in Los Angeles so don't have a dedicated workshop unfortunately.  I'll go back to those next time I need to do some sanding.  

That aircraft looks incredible Chris. I am in the process of sanding Squadron putty seams, and unavoidably removing details in the process, on my Revell P-51B. You are in a totally different modeling world from me. 😃 
 
BrianK

Making progress on my second iteration. So far I’ve followed the posts of Kevin Kenny and Stuglo with great appreciation  and admiration. Your skill level is way beyond my own. I find myself spending hours on improving my hinges, trying to make them smaller and smaller. The key has been perfecting my silver soldering technique. The stronger the joint, the more I can file them down to the desired size without the joint failing. 
I’ve not yet made a decision on how, and whether to display the interior in the final product. So for now, I’m doggedly applying all the interior detail. If nothing else, it’s a fun process and serves to improve my methods. After all, Isn’t that what it’s all about!  
It’s a cold morning in eastern Massachusetts. Great weather for making progress in the model shipyard.

Finally restarted with my Wasa after 6 years due to moving to new house, renovations etc.
Started with the raftlines
 

hit a milestone today, completed the planking on the lower hull.   Time to head to the hardware store for more sandpaper.   I'll probably take a short pause to figure out where I am, what's next etc.   it's been a good 2 months on planking with hardly a glance at instructions or blueprints.   Will have to get my head back in the game so I don't miss something.   I think painting the water way needs to happen soon.   Of course I'll be looking at some of the other build logs for this as well.  

I received my chapter nine parts, downloaded the monograph chapter, and finally got back to work after a long break. I added the quarterdeck inner planking, prepainted red. I then added the various cap rail parts after painting them black. The laser cut parts are great and make the work very straightforward. I sanded, filled and resanded the various joints and then repainted those areas. 
 
Bob

Hello,
not that you forget me, here a small update. I build in the spirketting for the upper gun deck. 

 
and today the waterways followed

 

 
These guys are controlling all. They are standing on a 3 inch (1,6 mm) plank. The planks later have the same size. And that is, what the carpenters have to do the next weeks, planking the deck. 

 

Continuing work on the Fair American Model ship:
 
Having a boat without a name is bad luck, so I added one that seemed appropriate! My freehand painting skills leave much to be desired, so I created a little laser-cut stencil to help with the lettering. I made some quick measurements of the molding 'gap' so the stencil would fit in snugly. I had to trim it just a hair, but i wanted the letters just offset from the bottom and top.
 

 
This technique didn't turn out too bad. Many of the letters were smeared, and the A's and R's needed to be blacked out.
 

 
Fortunately for me, a fine tip black sharpie worked perfectly for touch ups!
 

 
Next thing on the docket was curtains! This required some forethought. The counter isn't exactly a perfect arc, because it curves back and away from this view point. It's sort of flattened. I ended up measuring the length of the counter for vertical measurements, and simple port to starboard for horizontal.  I drew the shape of the counter on an index card, and it has a more pronounced arc shape.  When it gets laid onto the counter itself (3D), it will create the more 'smooshed' look that the plans have (2D).  
 

 
I took the stencil I drew and cut out small sections of curtains, then used a pencil to trace the overall shape.  A few bulwark red brush strokes later, and the finished product emerges. Is it perfect, and museum quality artistry? For Jason Long's collection of first-time-making-wooden-model-ships: YES!
 

 
Ships need to be able to steer, so this one might as well have a rudder. The gudgeon and pintle were easy enough to construct, but on this size scale, making it functional with pins, wasn't going to happen. So I opted for simply pinning it to the keel. 
 

 
Making small shallow drill spots in the brass after painting created a nice rivet appearance. This approach is similar to how I did the treenail look for the deck planks. I'm pleased with it!
 

 
More updates soon
 
- Jason -

I'd like to see one of our accomplished weathering artists, such as @FriedClams, get hold of this kit and a set of its deck gear and then really grunge it up. I'm sure these boats were worked very hard.

It's amazing how much of a visual difference is made by killing a white spot -- compare the starboard wing to its port side counterpart.
 

 
On the real plane, the bulge you see was made necessary by the addition of the drum-fed Hispano 20 mm cannon; the bulge, along with another on the bottom of the wing, covered the gun's ammunition drum. The early cannons were not a resounding success -- while they fired a heavier shell, the drums carried only a small number of rounds -- about 10 seconds' worth, if I remember correctly. In any case, pilots rarely got the whole 10 seconds of fire thanks to the gun's tendency to jam, often after only a few rounds.