ccoyle

What you need to know about this is that Chris Watton, who started at Caldercraft, designed the Victory Models line for Amati before starting his own company, Vanguard. Chris is an innovator who doesn't rest on his laurels -- he is constantly seeking ways to improve his kits, including design features, materials, plans, and instructions. There's a learning curve for this trade, as for any profession, so Chris's early work, though very good on its own merits, is not quite as splendid as his later efforts. So, Mercury, being one of his last designs for Amati/Victory, is roughly 2/3 of the way along Chris's career arc. It's a very good design with great instructions, incrementally better than his Caldercraft efforts, but it won't have all the latest bells & whistles seen in his most recent Vanguard offerings.*
 
Basically, you can't really go wrong with any of Chris's designs.
 
* I think that's a fair assessment of Chris's designing career -- he may feel free to correct me if I got anything wrong.

What you need to know about this is that Chris Watton, who started at Caldercraft, designed the Victory Models line for Amati before starting his own company, Vanguard. Chris is an innovator who doesn't rest on his laurels -- he is constantly seeking ways to improve his kits, including design features, materials, plans, and instructions. There's a learning curve for this trade, as for any profession, so Chris's early work, though very good on its own merits, is not quite as splendid as his later efforts. So, Mercury, being one of his last designs for Amati/Victory, is roughly 2/3 of the way along Chris's career arc. It's a very good design with great instructions, incrementally better than his Caldercraft efforts, but it won't have all the latest bells & whistles seen in his most recent Vanguard offerings.*
 
Basically, you can't really go wrong with any of Chris's designs.
 
* I think that's a fair assessment of Chris's designing career -- he may feel free to correct me if I got anything wrong.

By virtue of the fact that is a larger scale, 1/200 will naturally allow for more detail. However, if you have seen some of the incredible detail sets that are now available in even 1/700 scale, the issue of detail per unit of scale is almost a non-issue. I think for many modelers it would be more a question of cost and available display space.

A bit more steady progress to report. I've attached the bulwarks on the main and foredecks. This was one of several steps that I was nervous about, since the risk of breaking pieces is high. In fact, I did snap in half the portside bulwark on the foredeck—yikes! The break happened at a skinny point under the cable channel. After panicking and looking up the possibility of replacing broken parts (the form is here if you need it), I decided to put on some Gorilla glue and see what happened. As luck would have it, the glue held, even through the shaping process! *phew*
 
Apart from that scare, this process went more smoothly than I anticipated. The maindeck bulwarks have to be shaped with a pretty significant twist (nearly 45º), which I accomplished by soaking the plywood pieces and then borrowing the Admiral's clothes iron. The foredeck bulwarks, unsurprisingly, have a dramatic curve, which I handled in the same fashion. When I attached the maindeck bulwarks, I had another crisis moment—after lining the bulkheads, I had had a sneaking suspicion that something was out of alignment. Once I started dryfitting the bulwarks, I confirmed that suspicion. One corner of the quarterdeck was about a millimeter off of the frame to which it had been glued. After considering my options, I decided to just live with it and to cover it as best I could. The alternative would have involved pulling off one of the main cabin bulwarks (both glued and nailed into place) and stripping the lining on the bulkhead; way too much potential for irreversible damage there. So, I put in a shim to fill the ~1mm gap between the two bulwarks. Given how the planks lie on the hull, there will be a very small and (hopefully) subtle adaptation that I make, but this shouldn't pose any serious problem down the line. (Famous last words, I know...)
 
Photos are of the maindeck bulwarks, the shim on the portside (which still needs a bit of clean-up before hull planking begins), the foredeck bulwarks, and an overhead shot of all four pieces. 
 

 
Next up, I needed to line the foredeck bulwarks with pieces of 2x5 limewood. Another round of soaking and ironing made pretty quick work of this, though I also clamped them into place when I installed them. The next challenge was shaving, sanding, and filing them down to match the precut plywood pieces. Then, I added the stem head (the stem itself is a precut walnut/plywood piece that comes later). The instructions call for this to be cut as a trapezoidal prism, but that left a pretty big gap between the bulwark pieces. Instead, I sanded it into a triangular prism and it slid satisfyingly into place.
 
Photos show the two lining pieces clamped into place, then two different angles showing the shaped lining and the stem head (which at that point still needed a little sanding attention on the starboard side). 
 
  

 
Finally, I've painted the foredeck bulwarks. Still a bit of final sanding to do after the last coat of paint dries, but I'm overall pretty pleased with how this turned out. 
 

 
Next steps: I'll wrap up the "E" and "F" steps by lining the edges of the decks against the bulwarks and by adding the support ribs to the maindeck bulwarks. After that, the hard work of hull planking begins!

Ahoy HakeZou !  My OcCre Endurance kit came by FedEx late yesterday (from Age of Sail in California), and the feeling was almost like Christmas Day.  I've since opened the box and everything looks in perfect condition (no broken false keel as some have posted - admittedly, careful handling is in order due to the configuration of cutting in the stern).  I will resist the urge to dive in, as I still must finish (as far as I want to take it) another model ... but then I suppose there is no prohibition in having more than one in progress.
 
  I made light marks on the false keel to correspond to the waterline (from images of original drawings) and (allowing for the keel to be added) the distance 'between perpendiculars' (bow at water line to center of rudder post) was about 21 1/4".  Compared to the original ship having 125' between perpendiculars, the scale is about 1:70.5 ... so rounding to 1:70 was appropriate.  
 
  'Great job of vertical planking you've chosen to do ... and I plan on doing the same when I get into it.  The sides of the stern cabin are horizontal (seen in photos of the Endurance), and are planked with the hull.  Your secure eye bolts on the deck around the mast locations will take whatever tugging is needed to tension the lines later - without risk of pulling out.
 
  I'll have to look at the photos per your reference sites.  One I've seen already of the smokestack (as well as a post by another modeler on making steamboat stacks) gave me an idea that wrapping card stock around the funnel stock (instead of formed brass wire rings) would make flat bands as seen in the photos (all gets painted white).  Then wire drilling four peripheral holes into the flat band will permit insertion of 4 eye bolts where the guy wires attach to stabilize the funnel.  The extent of tweaking just depends on the inclination of the modeler, and I certainly have my limits.
 
  Once the fateful voyage was underway, Shackleton likely figured that it would a very long time before the ship would anchor ... some of the photos show the anchors stowed over the catheads on the fore deck with the anchor shaft lashed where the beam extends beyond the hull, and chain used to secure the bottoms of both anchors to each other.  That's one way to show them, as well as secured at the bow as seen in the instructions.  The forward capstan provided is a simple turning, so an aftermarket capstan (of the same size) with greater detail is another easy upgrade.
 
  Fair weather and smooth sailing ...  Johnny

Thanks, Johnny. Glad to hear you'll be building an Endurance, too—I look forward to seeing your adaptations of OcCre's design! As a quick note, I was taking a closer look at the blocks tonight and concur with Chris Coyle's review. They're average fittings. Even though this is only my fifth ship, I've seen both better and (much) worse. I'm going to forge ahead with the blocks and deadeyes in the kit, but a more experienced builder like you may want to replace them. Also worth noting that the plywood is really lightweight...so light I suspect that at least the outer layers are balsa (I'm no expert in these matters, so may be way off on that identification). Those pieces seem sturdy enough, just very light.
 
In other research, anyone building this should hunt for George Marston's paintings of the expedition; here's a sample of them at art.com, if you want some cheap print reproductions. Marston was one of the artists brought along to document the journey and his paintings are very striking. The painting entitled "The Endurance Crushed in the Ice of the Weddell Sea, October 1915" is the best view that I've found so far of the hull below the waterline. My conclusion (guess) that the ship had antifouling "brown stuff" comes from this image. Note that the ship is painted in full sunlight, so the black of the hull appears lighter than in other images, from which I assume that the antifouling paint also appears lighter than it really was. I've also discovered that the University of Missouri (M-I-Z! Z-O-U!) has a nice LibGuide on Shackleton's expedition; even though it seems to be a student project, there are some helpful resources, including a great gallery of photos, a link to the deck plans, and recommended books and films.
 
A small progress update: I have installed almost all of the eyebolts on the decks and have put some satin finish on them. The first photo shows the decks laid side-by-side (top row: fore and main, bottom row: aft and poop). In the detail of the foremast, you can see the mast partner (at least, I think that's what the round wooden piece is called) and the eyebolts installed around it. The plans call for the eyebolts to all be parallel to each other, running fore-to-aft. But that looked really strange to me, so I turned them all to be parallel to the mast partner, making a more pleasing circle around the mast. Hopefully, I still feel good about this decision once I'm attaching the rigging to them! The eyebolts that I've attached so far will all be bent under the deck, per Johnny's suggestion. The remaining eyebolts need to be driven into frames under the deck, so I won't add those until the decks are installed.
 

 

Ahoy mates - I've followed the information available on the new endurance kit, and have recently viewed the entire video tutorial available on it ... all 67 (if I remember rightly) youtube elements that run 3 or 4 more minutes each ... that's around 4 hours of watching.  Of course they don't cover multiples of elements - or every single plank ... but each step is covered.  I have to agree that even for a motivated adult 'beginner', this kit is doable 'out of the box'.
 
  Of course, there have been compromises in 'dead' accuracy of lines and details ... and the result if built 'as instructed' has a certain 'simplicity' to it.  Yet it is quite attractive.  Some of the simplifications involve the rigging and how the lines belay, the use of rigging rope instead of chainplate, the use of brass eyelets for portholes, sealing/sanding the 'jigsaw'-like cabin construction - to name a few.  But the design is well thought-out and is relatively 'fool proof'  for beginner to intermediate (if you watch the you-tube segments there will be an appreciation of how everything goes together in sequence), while en experienced modeler can rectify the above mentioned simplifications.
 
 I note a few points for recommendation:
 
  I don't advise using contact cement for the planking and decking.  If one wants a model to last a long time (and perhaps be a family heirloom), the bond can degrade over time ... I've seen it happen.  I note the clever way the sub-deck pieces key into the bulkheads, and if one uses the 'slow cure' wood glue on the framing, the deck pieces can be used (without glue) to assure squareness and fit without a plethora of angle pieces and many clamps on the bulkheads.
 
  Applying the decking over the sub deck  before assembling back on the frames eases construction.  But perhaps the width of the deck planks are a little out of scale - I'd be inclined to make a jig to cut them in half with repeated light X-acto cuts, then use in 'random lengths' so that actual joints will stagger somewhat - instead of marking them with a pencil.  There may be better means to pre treat the edges of the deck planking with a dark color than just using graphite - and there are some posts about alternative techniques ... but pencil will do.  I saw a post on how to make a jig for more accurately positioning pencil 'dots' on the decking.  One can also 'go crazy' and drill the peg holes and use the tips of round toothpicks to plug them - which is made easier since it all can be done before the deck pieces get installed.  Since the kit makes use of brass 'eye bolts' to belay a lot of the rigging (like on the deck all around the masts), were I to go along with this I'd keep the ends of the brass wire eye bolts longer and apply them before gluing the decks down.  That way, the ends of the eye bolts can be bent over below the deck so there won't be a risk of one or more 'pulling out' when securing rigging ... a bummer were this to happen.  My idea is to research the Endurance and see if there wooden rails with belying pins by the mast.  If so, I'd build and install entirely through the planked deck (for a secure fit) before gluing the decks down.
 
  Being double planked, one does not have to fill the spaces between bulkheads below decks with balsa or basswood to assure the beast fairing - but I'm inclined to go to the trouble.  The way they show to accomplish each planking layer is adequate, since the hull is to be painted, but prefer to taper more of the planks as I went and try to plank in a more period manner - as well as use less wide 'final' planking.  I don't know if the entire hull was black on the original ship, but it may be that anti-foulding paint was used below the waterline.  If so was, this a dark red color?  Again, some research is needed.  Also, I wouldn't use contact cement on the second planking - but to each his own.
 
  On the lower deck house, one can sand the pieces on the exterior by the thickness of any vertical planking (optional) that one might want to use on the outside (the fact of board construction will 'telegraph' nicely through the top coat of white paint), and cut-off rings of thick walled brass or copper tubing might make for better portholes - they could also be 'glazed' if one uses a suitable hole punch on the plastic glazing material provided.  I found a set of 'nested' hole cutters at an antique shop that only needed a little sharpening.  The brass railing stanchions look good, but perhaps using wire instead of rope going through as a railing might look better - the challenge would be avoiding 'kinks'.
 
  The light colored deadeyes can be stained darker, and wire chainplate on the lower deadeyes will make for a distinct improvement.  For display with sails, I'd re-make them from more appropriate (thinner) material.  Also the 1:70 scale can permit one to install jackstays on the yards to bend the square sails. I'd use the Underhill book on Clipper Rigging to make some improvements, as well as use finer rigging rope where needed.  I'd have a look at how the fore-and-aft booms attach to the masts - there might be room for some improvement there.
 
  I won't natter on, but I've ordered the kit on the strength of my observations and study ... there is real potential to improve on what is provided, but 'as-is' it is a good value.  
 
  Fair sailing to all !    Johnny
 
  May 19th 2021 edit: Confirming the 1:70 scale of the OcCre Endurance (now happily received), made me realize that a 'bust' to make a clipper model would change the scale too much (about 1:120) - and details for a much bigger ship would be challenging to work on. The Endurance was 125' between perpendiculars, vs 212' for the Cutty or Thermie.
 
  

If you've read my last build log, then you know I had a list of six ships that I was trying to decide between for my next project. You'll also know that the Endurance wasn't on that list. But, well, that's the way it goes sometimes. A little more birthday money rolled in than expected, along with some money from an Easter gig, and suddenly I had a bigger budget to consider. Then I discovered that OcCre had released the Endurance and that, even better, Ages of Sail had it on sale! And so here we are.
 
The story of the Endurance is, of course, well known on this forum, so I don't see any need to rehash it here. But my story with the Endurance isn't. I've been fascinated by Shackleton's journey ever since high school, when I was fortunate to perform Tim Mahr's tone poem Endurance at All-State Band. (Here's a recording if you haven't heard the piece before.) While learning my part, I read Alfred Lansing's book and was hooked. Since ordering the kit, I've been re-reading Lansing's book, watching documentaries, and so on. I've been carefully poring over Frank Hurley's photos from the expedition (especially his color photos!). I've also been studiously watching the tutorial videos posted by OcCre, which are still being posted as I write this. 
 
Before deciding to purchase the kit, I also carefully read Chris Coyle's very helpful review of it. He writes near the end that "I believe this kit can be built by an intermediate builder, and it will undoubtedly produce a nice-looking model right out of the box." I hope I'll be proof of that, though I'm probably closer to an advanced beginner than an intermediate builder
 
And now, on to what you're waiting for—lots of photos! Chris is a better judge than I am of the materials and he's also a better photographer, so I'll just refer you to his review to see the materials laid out. But to my eye things are generally pretty good, with two exceptions. First, there's a packaging issue. All of the plywood sheets and the false keel (made of MDF) come in a plastic-wrapped flatpack. But the false keel is clearly able to move around a bit, which puts it at risk for damage. The portion of it that extends behind the rudder broke off and even escaped from the plastic! Second, one of the sapele planks was broken (shown in the photo after I removed the rubber band around it). I don't think this will be a supply issue, but it was a little disappointing to see.
 

 
Apart from those two issues, though, I'm pleased with what I'm looking at. The hardware, blocks, and deadeyes look much better than some of the other kits I've done. The instructions are only one page in each language, but it's a B3-sized page, so there's enough there to be of some help. The book of step-by-step color photos is also on B3 paper, so OcCre can really pack in a lot of detail. Coupled with their tutorial videos, it's entirely possible that I'm over-confident at this point, since they've made things so accessible. The only weak part of the instructions is that the paint guide lists recommended paint colors for all OcCre models...except the Endurance. The updated sheet is on their website, but hasn't made it into the boxes yet.
 

 
And now, onto the ship itself. Today, my goal was to get the frames onto the false keel. After numbering the pieces and cutting them out, I dry fit the frames and decks. The laser is used a bit generously on some pieces, but the measurements are spot on. Everything slid right into place and fit as expected. The only exception is that there is a little extra space (.5mm or so) on the 9th frame; the red arrows in the third photo here are indicating those gaps. (The 10th frame is in backwards in that photo, so the companionway is blocked...oops!)
 
  
 
After checking the fit I was ready to start gluing in the frames. I used corner brackets to make sure everything was square. Since I didn't have enough brackets for all the frames I worked in shifts, alternating frames.
 

 
Frame #11 (piece A12) needed some extra attention, since I also had to repair the broken piece of the false keel. After a few failed attempts, I ended up securing the false keel, frame #11, and the broken piece using four corner brackets and four clamps. Although the scar looks a bit dramatic in this close-up, it feels smooth to the touch and the poopdeck fits perfectly at its various contact points. By the time I plank the stern, this will be heavily reinforced, so I'm not terribly worried. 
 

 
After the first work session, here are the false keel and frames. This was my first time using the corner brackets (a tip I'd picked up here on MSW), and I'm really pleased with how square and symmetrical everything is. There's a long ways to go, but I feel good about this first step.
 

What you need to know about this is that Chris Watton, who started at Caldercraft, designed the Victory Models line for Amati before starting his own company, Vanguard. Chris is an innovator who doesn't rest on his laurels -- he is constantly seeking ways to improve his kits, including design features, materials, plans, and instructions. There's a learning curve for this trade, as for any profession, so Chris's early work, though very good on its own merits, is not quite as splendid as his later efforts. So, Mercury, being one of his last designs for Amati/Victory, is roughly 2/3 of the way along Chris's career arc. It's a very good design with great instructions, incrementally better than his Caldercraft efforts, but it won't have all the latest bells & whistles seen in his most recent Vanguard offerings.*
 
Basically, you can't really go wrong with any of Chris's designs.
 
* I think that's a fair assessment of Chris's designing career -- he may feel free to correct me if I got anything wrong.

Okay, the third coat went on today. I do not think there is actually enough for a fourth coat. I'm not 100% pleased with my work, although I gave it my best effort. Despite trying to clean away the sanding dust as much as possible prior to painting, I still found plenty of minuscule particles in the finish -- after all, I'm working in a garage, not a clean room, and I don't have a shop vac. Had a few minor runs, too. The glossy finish under bright lighting shows up every flaw quite well! After allowing the paint to become tack-dry, I pulled the tape.
 
Voila!
 

 
The speckles in the photo are irregular reflections, not bare spots. Can't wait to start throwing some varnish on that bare wood, but I intend to wait 48 hrs before flipping her over onto her tender bottom. Yes, I said that -- there's no need to quote it. 😆
 
 

The best way to remove it is not to get it...  I don't get it very often because I double or triple mask, first with pin striping tape (1/16' or 1/8"), then an overlap of 1/4" tape, then another overlap with low tack painter's tape (and paper if it's a large surface.  Still, stuff happens sometimes.  The underbleed I normally get is between the hull and a bright finished deck.  In most cases, I use a very sharp #11 blade and cut alongside any objects against which the underbleed rests.  This gives a nice sharp edge to end against when scraping.  Then, depending on the size of the area around the paint, I scrape with the grain towards the sharp edge using a variety of chisel blades and a razor blade.  You need a gentle touch and to keep the blade vertical.  If it's paint on paint, now you have a definite problem.  If it's gloss paint and the base coat is well cured, you can use a Q tip dipped in a mild thinner and lightly swab aqay the underbled color.  Sometimes you can use automotive polishing compound and a soft cloth on some paints, as well.  In all probability, with a paint on paint problem, you're probably going to have to remask and repaint.  FAIR WARNING:  I seldom brush paint any large surface.  Generally, I use an airbrush and sometimes a rattle can.  Consequently, I'm not sure how well this would work with a brushed surface.  
 
    

Okay, the third coat went on today. I do not think there is actually enough for a fourth coat. I'm not 100% pleased with my work, although I gave it my best effort. Despite trying to clean away the sanding dust as much as possible prior to painting, I still found plenty of minuscule particles in the finish -- after all, I'm working in a garage, not a clean room, and I don't have a shop vac. Had a few minor runs, too. The glossy finish under bright lighting shows up every flaw quite well! After allowing the paint to become tack-dry, I pulled the tape.
 
Voila!
 

 
The speckles in the photo are irregular reflections, not bare spots. Can't wait to start throwing some varnish on that bare wood, but I intend to wait 48 hrs before flipping her over onto her tender bottom. Yes, I said that -- there's no need to quote it. 😆
 
 

Morning everyone
l have just about finished building my first ever project. A oasthouse for the garden.
I enjoyed the challenge, and it worked out half tidy.
My good neighbour was impressed, so much so, that we did a deal on a part build model of billings Cutty Sark he gave up on forty days years ago, the rigging 
got him!!
Anyway hello to each and all, I will be seeking some assistance on the Cutty
some time in the future.
in the the meantime I thought to get my hand in with a junk.
kind regards
john
 
 

Yeah Chris, don't beat yourself up about a less than glass like finish. My boat looks great to everyone that sees it but the fish and I know that it ain't perfect
 

If you get too disgusted with the finish Chris, I know a guy here in the PNW who would love putting it on his camper this summer! You know............. 
 
Just for show. 

You know the old sayin..... "Whatever floats your boat" {chuckle}
She's a gorgeous lady whichever side it up.....
 
Seriously she looks good, she sure passes the 4 foot rule for DIY hand builts I must say.... Much better than I would have done....
 
And, I'll hazard to say, If the top side comes out as well as the bottom did I would be proud to paddle her anywhere, anytime.....
 
(sorry, I had to quote it, it was too good to pass up, now I'll go slinking back to my hole)

You have done a Fine job chris  - one question  - when are we all coming out with  you in her maiden voyage  - will you get us all in?
 
OC.

The only ones will know is you and us, Chris.   Looking at the top picture, it's looks great.  Step back and look at from "normal viewing distance" like you would if it were a very large model.

Chris, she looks lovely. It isn't a show boat, it a working craft besides fish don't capisce boat hulls perfect or no. 

Okay, the third coat went on today. I do not think there is actually enough for a fourth coat. I'm not 100% pleased with my work, although I gave it my best effort. Despite trying to clean away the sanding dust as much as possible prior to painting, I still found plenty of minuscule particles in the finish -- after all, I'm working in a garage, not a clean room, and I don't have a shop vac. Had a few minor runs, too. The glossy finish under bright lighting shows up every flaw quite well! After allowing the paint to become tack-dry, I pulled the tape.
 
Voila!
 

 
The speckles in the photo are irregular reflections, not bare spots. Can't wait to start throwing some varnish on that bare wood, but I intend to wait 48 hrs before flipping her over onto her tender bottom. Yes, I said that -- there's no need to quote it. 😆
 
 

Okay, the third coat went on today. I do not think there is actually enough for a fourth coat. I'm not 100% pleased with my work, although I gave it my best effort. Despite trying to clean away the sanding dust as much as possible prior to painting, I still found plenty of minuscule particles in the finish -- after all, I'm working in a garage, not a clean room, and I don't have a shop vac. Had a few minor runs, too. The glossy finish under bright lighting shows up every flaw quite well! After allowing the paint to become tack-dry, I pulled the tape.
 
Voila!
 

 
The speckles in the photo are irregular reflections, not bare spots. Can't wait to start throwing some varnish on that bare wood, but I intend to wait 48 hrs before flipping her over onto her tender bottom. Yes, I said that -- there's no need to quote it. 😆
 
 

Okay, the third coat went on today. I do not think there is actually enough for a fourth coat. I'm not 100% pleased with my work, although I gave it my best effort. Despite trying to clean away the sanding dust as much as possible prior to painting, I still found plenty of minuscule particles in the finish -- after all, I'm working in a garage, not a clean room, and I don't have a shop vac. Had a few minor runs, too. The glossy finish under bright lighting shows up every flaw quite well! After allowing the paint to become tack-dry, I pulled the tape.
 
Voila!
 

 
The speckles in the photo are irregular reflections, not bare spots. Can't wait to start throwing some varnish on that bare wood, but I intend to wait 48 hrs before flipping her over onto her tender bottom. Yes, I said that -- there's no need to quote it. 😆
 
 

Okay, the third coat went on today. I do not think there is actually enough for a fourth coat. I'm not 100% pleased with my work, although I gave it my best effort. Despite trying to clean away the sanding dust as much as possible prior to painting, I still found plenty of minuscule particles in the finish -- after all, I'm working in a garage, not a clean room, and I don't have a shop vac. Had a few minor runs, too. The glossy finish under bright lighting shows up every flaw quite well! After allowing the paint to become tack-dry, I pulled the tape.
 
Voila!
 

 
The speckles in the photo are irregular reflections, not bare spots. Can't wait to start throwing some varnish on that bare wood, but I intend to wait 48 hrs before flipping her over onto her tender bottom. Yes, I said that -- there's no need to quote it. 😆
 
 

Okay, the third coat went on today. I do not think there is actually enough for a fourth coat. I'm not 100% pleased with my work, although I gave it my best effort. Despite trying to clean away the sanding dust as much as possible prior to painting, I still found plenty of minuscule particles in the finish -- after all, I'm working in a garage, not a clean room, and I don't have a shop vac. Had a few minor runs, too. The glossy finish under bright lighting shows up every flaw quite well! After allowing the paint to become tack-dry, I pulled the tape.
 
Voila!
 

 
The speckles in the photo are irregular reflections, not bare spots. Can't wait to start throwing some varnish on that bare wood, but I intend to wait 48 hrs before flipping her over onto her tender bottom. Yes, I said that -- there's no need to quote it. 😆
 
 

Okay, the third coat went on today. I do not think there is actually enough for a fourth coat. I'm not 100% pleased with my work, although I gave it my best effort. Despite trying to clean away the sanding dust as much as possible prior to painting, I still found plenty of minuscule particles in the finish -- after all, I'm working in a garage, not a clean room, and I don't have a shop vac. Had a few minor runs, too. The glossy finish under bright lighting shows up every flaw quite well! After allowing the paint to become tack-dry, I pulled the tape.
 
Voila!
 

 
The speckles in the photo are irregular reflections, not bare spots. Can't wait to start throwing some varnish on that bare wood, but I intend to wait 48 hrs before flipping her over onto her tender bottom. Yes, I said that -- there's no need to quote it. 😆