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ccoyle got a reaction from Edwardkenway in Grumman F4F-4 Wildcat by ccoyle - FINISHED - WAK - 1/33 - CARD
Once again making only very slow progress on the cylinders. I can only do a few parts at a time before the monotony shuts down my will to live. 😑 So far I have finished three cylinders and started the cylinder heads on the remaining eleven. Anyways, while I'm at it I thought I'd try adding some extra detail to the basic engine, using the accompanying Wikipedia image as a reference:
I will only be adding a few extra bits, but I might take a crack at the spark plug wires, since they are one feature that is rather obvious in the photo. The coloring of the kit engine also differs from the real thing on a number of points, e.g., the valve covers being brown in the kit but silver in the image. I think the colors seen here are much more visually interesting, although I'm fully aware that this is a bright and shiny display engine and not a tired and weathered service engine.
One thing I need to determine before installing the engine (eventually), and I'm certain that at least one person in my audience will know the answer to this question, is which cylinder goes in the 12 o'clock position. The kit diagram shows a front row cylinder in the 12 o'clock position, but the image above, as well as others I have seen online, appear to show a back row cylinder in that position. What can you guys tell me about this?
Cheers!
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ccoyle got a reaction from FriedClams in Grumman F4F-4 Wildcat by ccoyle - FINISHED - WAK - 1/33 - CARD
Once again making only very slow progress on the cylinders. I can only do a few parts at a time before the monotony shuts down my will to live. 😑 So far I have finished three cylinders and started the cylinder heads on the remaining eleven. Anyways, while I'm at it I thought I'd try adding some extra detail to the basic engine, using the accompanying Wikipedia image as a reference:
I will only be adding a few extra bits, but I might take a crack at the spark plug wires, since they are one feature that is rather obvious in the photo. The coloring of the kit engine also differs from the real thing on a number of points, e.g., the valve covers being brown in the kit but silver in the image. I think the colors seen here are much more visually interesting, although I'm fully aware that this is a bright and shiny display engine and not a tired and weathered service engine.
One thing I need to determine before installing the engine (eventually), and I'm certain that at least one person in my audience will know the answer to this question, is which cylinder goes in the 12 o'clock position. The kit diagram shows a front row cylinder in the 12 o'clock position, but the image above, as well as others I have seen online, appear to show a back row cylinder in that position. What can you guys tell me about this?
Cheers!
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ccoyle got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Grumman F4F-4 Wildcat by ccoyle - FINISHED - WAK - 1/33 - CARD
Once again making only very slow progress on the cylinders. I can only do a few parts at a time before the monotony shuts down my will to live. 😑 So far I have finished three cylinders and started the cylinder heads on the remaining eleven. Anyways, while I'm at it I thought I'd try adding some extra detail to the basic engine, using the accompanying Wikipedia image as a reference:
I will only be adding a few extra bits, but I might take a crack at the spark plug wires, since they are one feature that is rather obvious in the photo. The coloring of the kit engine also differs from the real thing on a number of points, e.g., the valve covers being brown in the kit but silver in the image. I think the colors seen here are much more visually interesting, although I'm fully aware that this is a bright and shiny display engine and not a tired and weathered service engine.
One thing I need to determine before installing the engine (eventually), and I'm certain that at least one person in my audience will know the answer to this question, is which cylinder goes in the 12 o'clock position. The kit diagram shows a front row cylinder in the 12 o'clock position, but the image above, as well as others I have seen online, appear to show a back row cylinder in that position. What can you guys tell me about this?
Cheers!
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ccoyle got a reaction from Old Collingwood in Grumman F4F-4 Wildcat by ccoyle - FINISHED - WAK - 1/33 - CARD
Once again making only very slow progress on the cylinders. I can only do a few parts at a time before the monotony shuts down my will to live. 😑 So far I have finished three cylinders and started the cylinder heads on the remaining eleven. Anyways, while I'm at it I thought I'd try adding some extra detail to the basic engine, using the accompanying Wikipedia image as a reference:
I will only be adding a few extra bits, but I might take a crack at the spark plug wires, since they are one feature that is rather obvious in the photo. The coloring of the kit engine also differs from the real thing on a number of points, e.g., the valve covers being brown in the kit but silver in the image. I think the colors seen here are much more visually interesting, although I'm fully aware that this is a bright and shiny display engine and not a tired and weathered service engine.
One thing I need to determine before installing the engine (eventually), and I'm certain that at least one person in my audience will know the answer to this question, is which cylinder goes in the 12 o'clock position. The kit diagram shows a front row cylinder in the 12 o'clock position, but the image above, as well as others I have seen online, appear to show a back row cylinder in that position. What can you guys tell me about this?
Cheers!
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ccoyle got a reaction from AJohnson in Grumman F4F-4 Wildcat by ccoyle - FINISHED - WAK - 1/33 - CARD
Once again making only very slow progress on the cylinders. I can only do a few parts at a time before the monotony shuts down my will to live. 😑 So far I have finished three cylinders and started the cylinder heads on the remaining eleven. Anyways, while I'm at it I thought I'd try adding some extra detail to the basic engine, using the accompanying Wikipedia image as a reference:
I will only be adding a few extra bits, but I might take a crack at the spark plug wires, since they are one feature that is rather obvious in the photo. The coloring of the kit engine also differs from the real thing on a number of points, e.g., the valve covers being brown in the kit but silver in the image. I think the colors seen here are much more visually interesting, although I'm fully aware that this is a bright and shiny display engine and not a tired and weathered service engine.
One thing I need to determine before installing the engine (eventually), and I'm certain that at least one person in my audience will know the answer to this question, is which cylinder goes in the 12 o'clock position. The kit diagram shows a front row cylinder in the 12 o'clock position, but the image above, as well as others I have seen online, appear to show a back row cylinder in that position. What can you guys tell me about this?
Cheers!
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ccoyle got a reaction from Canute in Grumman F4F-4 Wildcat by ccoyle - FINISHED - WAK - 1/33 - CARD
Once again making only very slow progress on the cylinders. I can only do a few parts at a time before the monotony shuts down my will to live. 😑 So far I have finished three cylinders and started the cylinder heads on the remaining eleven. Anyways, while I'm at it I thought I'd try adding some extra detail to the basic engine, using the accompanying Wikipedia image as a reference:
I will only be adding a few extra bits, but I might take a crack at the spark plug wires, since they are one feature that is rather obvious in the photo. The coloring of the kit engine also differs from the real thing on a number of points, e.g., the valve covers being brown in the kit but silver in the image. I think the colors seen here are much more visually interesting, although I'm fully aware that this is a bright and shiny display engine and not a tired and weathered service engine.
One thing I need to determine before installing the engine (eventually), and I'm certain that at least one person in my audience will know the answer to this question, is which cylinder goes in the 12 o'clock position. The kit diagram shows a front row cylinder in the 12 o'clock position, but the image above, as well as others I have seen online, appear to show a back row cylinder in that position. What can you guys tell me about this?
Cheers!
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ccoyle reacted to MAGIC's Craig in MAGIC 1993 by MAGIC's Craig - FINISHED - scale 1:8 - RADIO - cruising schooner
My next step involved laminating up the deadwood from 1/2" lifts of basswood and getting out the outer stem from some lovely, tight-grained old growth Douglas fir.
More fairing followed of the deadwood and then it was time to build a new cradle to hold the hull "right-side up".
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ccoyle reacted to MAGIC's Craig in MAGIC 1993 by MAGIC's Craig - FINISHED - scale 1:8 - RADIO - cruising schooner
The model was built inverted with frames made from glued double futtocks of basswood, located on the stations. Frames #2 and #8 also incorporated 3mm ply bulkheads to create "watertight" compartments in the bow and stern. The deck beams rest atop the corresponding station molds and are held in place with small friction-fit wooden clamps
The photos from here on out are by me unless otherwise noted.
Fore-and-aft temporary blocking locked the stations vertically. Once all of the stations were situated, blocking for the transom and the inner stem were set up.
A transom blank was laminated over a curved form, the inner stem was glued up around the lofted profile piece and port and starboard harbins were scarfed together to be fitted at the level of the bottom of the deck.
Next chore was to laminate in place the keelson atop the frames.
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ccoyle reacted to MAGIC's Craig in MAGIC 1993 by MAGIC's Craig - FINISHED - scale 1:8 - RADIO - cruising schooner
This is my first scratch POF R/C work. I designed the original full-sized 40' LOD MAGIC for my wife and myself as a cruising home and she was professionally built by Bent Jespersen and his crew in Sidney, B.C., Canada. We were fortunate enough to sail her for some 25,000 miles over the course of nearly 20 years. She currently sails out of Maine and the Abacos under her current owner.
In November, 2019, I embarked on this project to create a working 1/8th scale model of her. The original 3/4" = 1' scale plans had been digitized and so I took my files to a local copy shop and had them printed at 1-1/2"= 1' (200%). Like many in the forum, progress was not always steady, but we are close to being finished. If the posting of her past photos is acceptable, I will build this blog to bring the project up to date.
Photo by Michael Berman
Once i figure out to get the next few photo rightside up, I'll continue...
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ccoyle got a reaction from Tim Moore in Grumman F4F-4 Wildcat by ccoyle - FINISHED - WAK - 1/33 - CARD
Once again making only very slow progress on the cylinders. I can only do a few parts at a time before the monotony shuts down my will to live. 😑 So far I have finished three cylinders and started the cylinder heads on the remaining eleven. Anyways, while I'm at it I thought I'd try adding some extra detail to the basic engine, using the accompanying Wikipedia image as a reference:
I will only be adding a few extra bits, but I might take a crack at the spark plug wires, since they are one feature that is rather obvious in the photo. The coloring of the kit engine also differs from the real thing on a number of points, e.g., the valve covers being brown in the kit but silver in the image. I think the colors seen here are much more visually interesting, although I'm fully aware that this is a bright and shiny display engine and not a tired and weathered service engine.
One thing I need to determine before installing the engine (eventually), and I'm certain that at least one person in my audience will know the answer to this question, is which cylinder goes in the 12 o'clock position. The kit diagram shows a front row cylinder in the 12 o'clock position, but the image above, as well as others I have seen online, appear to show a back row cylinder in that position. What can you guys tell me about this?
Cheers!
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ccoyle reacted to chris watton in Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates Volume 2
Here is the first Indy deck set off the laser machine.
I will only have a few until I restock my wood sheets in September, as most of my last batch went on re stocking all kit decks..
HMS Indefatigable Engraved Deck Set – VANGUARD MODELS
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ccoyle got a reaction from Matt D in USS Constitution by Der Alte Rentner - Model Shipways - 1/76
You won't normally see me liking every new build log update on the forum, but I do try to check in on each of them periodically. When you see me post a like, it means I've read the previous posts as well.
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ccoyle reacted to chris watton in Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates Volume 2
There is not kit supplied equivilent. I did have a few laser etched decks when first released as an optional extra, but these were on custom sized wood and very expensive, and very costly in the end due to most of the sheets being unsuitable for purpose.
I do however buy large quanties of 1x150x1000mm limewood, which I use for all engraved decks now, so I thought I would again offer the Indy pre made decks, albeiit in more separate parts than before due to width limitations.
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ccoyle reacted to Der Alte Rentner in USS Constitution by Der Alte Rentner - Model Shipways - 1/76
Seems like I'm on my own.. Oh well,
The build continues.
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ccoyle reacted to CPDDET in NRG half-hull planking project by CPDDET - 18th century merchant ship
After taking my Bluenose as far as I wanted I decided it was time to learn proper hull planking.
I ordered the kit ( https://thenrgstore.org/products/half-hull-planking-project) from NRG some time ago and will spend the next week or so gathering what I need for this build. I will also be reviewing the various build logs of other other shipwrights to gain further insights.
Since I now have some experience I've decided to upgrade my material to Boxwood rather than using the Basswood that comes with the kit. Hopefully I would ruin too much of it. 😆
Any advice or suggestions from those who have built this kit is always appreciated!
Dave
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ccoyle reacted to AJohnson in Hawker Typhoon 1b "Car Door" by AJohnson - Airfix - 1:24
I plan to do one half all "buttoned-up" - probably the port side and the starboard side all open with the "giblets" showing, with the canopy door and roof open to show the cockpit as best I can.
I did this with my last 1/24, a FAA Hellcat.
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ccoyle reacted to _SalD_ in USCG Harriet Lane by _SalD_ - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96
The bridges and the main mast bitts were the next task. After reading bobandlucy's build and seeing how Bob had a problem with the two access ladders for the bridges being too short I decided to move the two platforms inboard a little so the ladders would reach. I chose not to paint the platforms but left them natural. I also scored them to simulate planks.
The main mass bitts were assembled, painted and glued in place.
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ccoyle got a reaction from SmashedGlass in USS ENGLAND (DE-635) by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD
A few vents, lockers, and other miscellaneous bits bring Step 18 to a close. As you may recall, the instructions recommended doing Step 19 before finishing off Step 18, so the next update will feature Step 20.
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ccoyle got a reaction from SmashedGlass in USS ENGLAND (DE-635) by ccoyle - FINISHED - HMV - 1/250 - CARD
FINALLY . . . after over three weeks of painstaking work, numerous itty bitty parts lost and remade again, and liberal usage of 'special words', the stack is done. It was a real slog (no offense to Captain Slog), and I'm relieved to be done with it so that I can at last move on to something else -- literally anything else!
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ccoyle reacted to aliluke in HMS Fly by aliluke - Amati/Victory Models - 1/64
Hi
I am going very slow...Next little thing to make was the stern lantern using the Syren Model 1/64 version. A truly brilliant mini kit but very tricky to build. To call this small is very much an understatement - it is tiny and some parts ridiculously so. The macro photography takes you way beyond beyond what you can see. For absurd detail, I added a wick to the candle. The only panic was popping a glazing panel inwards during handling after fixing the top on. I drilled a hole through the door and gently pushed it back into place with a wire. First rule when modelling at this size and breaking something - don't panic and find the fix. Only departure from the kit is the crank - basswood in the kit but I replaced with 1mm diameter solid brass rod which is fitted into a hole drilled into the base parts. It feels much more solid than a bit of wood glued to the base.
The lantern catches the setting sun as HMS Fly sails out of Dusky Sound, Fiordland, New Zealand - the background photo is taken by me in Dusky Sound and is my computer wallpaper (it is not is not blurry in reality!)
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ccoyle reacted to Jörgen in Airplanes and Tanks in plastic by Jörgen
Now back to 1:48 again. This time it is a Hurricane MK1 with metal wing. This time I tried the Mr. color range instead of MRP for the RAF colors. It is crazy how much the shades differ from brand to brand for the same color. In MRP:s case it also differ in batches..
Model: Hawker Hurricane MK1
Scale: 1:48
Manufacture: Airfix
Extras: None
Colors: Mr. Color
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ccoyle reacted to AJohnson in Hawker Typhoon 1b "Car Door" by AJohnson - Airfix - 1:24
MSW is like an addiction, this kit has been sat in the stash getting on for a couple of years now and I was thinking I would be strong and finish up a few projects before diving in.
But no. @realworkingsailor has done a wonderful build log of a "Tiffy" and @Egilman @Javlin @CDW @Landlubber Mike and other guilty parties (you know who you are!) have being chipping in with loads of useful insights and info and now I have worm in my head saying "do it!" 🤪
Thanks guys!!! 😆
I have built the "bubble top" version before, so know what to expect with this kit, but this time I have bought a few "extras" to pimp it up a bit.
This will be a slow burner as I have got plenty still to do after the leak in the house and the place is a bit of a mess, but at least we have ceilings again as of this week. 😁
Just putting down a place marker to say, yeah I can't resist.... (now where is that straight jacket...)
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ccoyle got a reaction from Canute in Cannon Jolle by Papa - FINISHED - Master Korabel - 1/72
This is a delightful kit and makes a very interesting model with minimal space requirements. If you read my build log, then you already know that the only real gripe I had with the kit is its poor-quality rigging line. You would do well to shell out a few extra bucks and replace that material.
Good luck!
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ccoyle reacted to Javlin in Spitfire Mk XVI by Javlin - FINISHED - Eduard - 1/48 - French 1945
This girl is done.
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ccoyle reacted to Mike Collier in Buy Boat by Mike Collier - FINISHED - Wye River Models
Got some or done on my Buyboat. Deck is on, side rails, base for pilot house and cover for cargo hole. I also glued in a mast support . I cut out the doors.