WackoWolf

Done some drawing and measuring. It think I have the correct dimensions. now back to the workbench to try to make these two parts.
Here are the drawings:
 

I think I figured it out   can you see these Ollie???

Magnificent Remco, a real class act.  Thinking about it - - - I could use something like it - - - taking orders??  
 
Cheers,

I've been away from my log way to long, vacation, sickness and other projects kept me away from my Kingfisher. Time for an update, although a little off topic. I wasn't very pleased with the storage space I made under my workbench so it was time for a big upgrade. More drawers and a sliding platform to keep the power tools within practical reach. Always nice to do a full size project. Here's before, during and after.
 

 

 

 

 
Stay tuned for updates on the KF
 
Remco
 
 

I have a put together a similar method of rope coiling. I think these could be a more permanent solution.  I have made a number of these `rope coilers' so I can coil multiple ropes and save time.

These are  `counters' used in primary school to help with maths. (I'm a teacher)
They are available on ebay for about $5.00 per 100 (AUS)
The beauty of them is that they are transparent so you can see what you are doing!
(just search for transparent coloured counters - on ebay)

Take two counters and drill a small hole in the centre of each (just large enough to push a push pin through)

superglue a push pin to one of the counters.

After soaking your rope in a solution of white glue and water, thread the end of it through the counter that does not have the push pin attached. Then push the other counter (with the push pin) through the hole in the bottom counter.( This traps the rope so it won't come loose when you turn it.

Now you need to make something on which to mount your rope coiler.
I nailed a nail (with the pointy end removed) through a base board. I then drilled a hole through  the centre of  a piece of dowel which was then placed over the nail . The dowel was loose enough to rotate on the nail.

Now place the rope coiler on top of your rotating dowel rod. I have drilled a small hole in the top of the dowel and forced the push pin down so it is firm but the gap between the two counters is enough for the rope to go through (this is adjustable depending on the diameter of the rope being coiled) . Rotate the dowel with one hand while feeding the line between the two
counters in a even fashion with the other hand (you can see through the transparent counter to check that all is well!) When complete, remove the rope coiler from the top of the dowel and allow to dry overnight. You can then make more - if you have made multiple rope coilers.

After the coil is dry, carefully remove it from the coiler by cutting and levering from the coiler - which can then be reused.

Because the counters are thicker and sturdier than a piece of plastic taken from packaging, you will get no flexing and a more uniform result .You now have a good looking rope coil.

There are a couple more ways to do the coil around a belaying pin. One is to use the line that you have hitched around the pin. You make another flat coil with some more line and hang the coil around the hitched line. The picture below should tell you the story.

 
What I like to do is to make the coils ahead of time and store them until I need them. I use several different sizes. Below is one variation of what I showed earlier. It ends up looking a bit more like the photographs. I make a series of small loops on a board with brats and hook those through the coil. 
 
 
 This shows a couple just looped around a pin.
 
Keep in mind that the sailors had to be able to grab the line and know exactly how it is looped around the pin. They would have to do this blindly in the dark and heavy seas. Hence all lines were belayed the same way.

I use this jig to make my pin coils. Just some nails in an angled piece of wood. When the coils are made, I spray them with hair spray and let dry. The plastic push pins allow for easy removal. Has worked very good for me.

Belaying a line around a pin is the first step.
  
 
I cheat a bit and do this first when belaying around a pin or cleat. I make the first couple turns and put a dab of CA on the line to hold it in place. Then I cut the line!!!
Next I take the same line I just cut (or another section of the same material) and make the coil. The fixture is simply two nails, a pin and some thinned PVA glue. Wrap as shown, let dry a bit and remove.
  
 
Again they are not perfect but that is life. The last picture shows the two truss tackles with a double and single block that are 2.5 mm. Pretty small. A cleat was mounted on the mast just above the top.

Piet, Jan is right if you look at the drawings, she was designed with 3 blades. Of course it could look like 4 if you think it's 4.  So no domkop or strike two here if you ask me   just lucky as you only need to make 6 blades
 

 
Remco

Thank you all for dropping in and your likes.
 
@ Pete48: Thank you, thank you but did you see jan's comment ??  Yeah the prop came out okay but - - -
 
@ Remco:  Thank you as well for the compliment, but I have to remake them 
 
@ Jan:  Ah yes, eagle eye Jan - - - it's a good thing somebody keeps me straight   thank you for spotting it.  Yes, of course the prop has only three blades.  Here I went assuming again and not checking the photos in my archive.  The actual manufacturer's drawings only give me one blade that seems to be centered, making me think it has four blades.  I have that picture hanging on the wall as well with a few others but - - - I didn't check          Okay, everybody now in unison - domkop   Thank you.
 
Okay, enough fun at my expense, now I need to get back to work and redo the props.  No biggy, just a minor set-back.  That gives me two less blades to make too    
 
What is this, two strokes?  So I have one more before I'm out    I better start paying more attention!!   
 
Yeah, it sure looks like a tedious job - loading mines.  Gino mentioned to me that dropping them was a nerve racking experience, very noisy and scary.
 
I don't know how much work I'll be able to do in the next few days.  Gwen wants to leave at 0600 next Tuesday morning.  We are driving up to Pittsburgh, PA  to visit our daughter and grandson.  13 hours on the road.
I'll take my big iMac with me though so I can stay in touch with all y'all.  This'll give me some time with artwork.
 
Cheers,

Hi Piet,
 
Very nice propellor.
As it is so beautifull, it is with great hesitation that I ask the question: are you sure that the props were 4-bladed props?
Some of the pictures suggest 3-bladed ones....
 
Jan
 
PS Perhaps I already gave this link before, but here are some nice pics of the loading of the mines. The number of peaople standing around suggest that loading was not completely trivial ...
http://www.dutchsubmarines.com/pictures/pictures_o19_loading_mines.htm

Hola!!
 
Last update:
After some days of work I finished the rest of the masts, letting only the tops unbonded.  I did so thinking that it could subsequently facilitate the placement of the shrouds.  You can see the method I use to make them straight and how they look.
 

 

 
You can see in the pictures the masts in their positions but I have not fixed them yet.
 
 
 
Saludos, Karl

Nenad:  I'm glad to see you start at the keel and work your way up to the waterline;  and It's never too early to plan where the "gore strakes"  will be (I believe it was 9 or 10 rows when I had to do the goring).  I went off of Campbell, labeled the strakes from keel upward, and circled the numbered strakes that needed to be "gored".  This method wasn't perfect, but it got me to the waterline with errors I could live with....
 
Great choice in plating material;  looks just like the current ship.  Now maybe if I can overcome my hurdles, we'll meet at the same point in masting...
 
Cheers!
 
Bob

I agree with Remco, the detail that you have put into the beams and everything else is a shame to hide. Excellent work. You blow me away every time I see new updates. Keep the pictures coming.

Upon closer examination of your pic, it seems to me that you have possibly mounted the cut-off tool post incorrectly in your lathe. Are you sure that the post is not mounted upside down? (the slanted surface should be facing down).
Besides, I am not sure you can turn anything on Sherline lathes in the reversed position, from the back of your cross slide.
Try to mount it the right side up and in front (facing you) of the cross slide table. This should lower the tip of your cut off tool, hopefully just at the center of your work piece.

..Thank you all for the comments and likes, as always they are appreciated and very motivating..
 
As I went along with the carvings they became a bit more “challenging” and the ornaments are certainly not replicas of the original.   The techniques i used are similar to what I have described before. Down below a few pictures to illustrate the progress.  

 

 

 

 

 
.. Dry fit .. 
 

 
in a closeup you will notice that "Abachi" might be a bit too grainy for this job.  
 

 
.. Anyway.. I can live with the end result.. 

I am back from a week in Mexico with an update from the past month.
So I was able to complete the work on the bulwarks and get the hull sanded and filled. I am gaining skill in fitting the wood together without gaps. I'm doing a much better job of this with this build vs the Jolly boat. I have also completed planking the inner bulwarks and have attached the keel. How do you not get so much residue of the PVA everywhere? I have thousands of q-tips but it still seems to hang out? I am using them dry.

For those of you who like to make your own machines,there is a very cool 3 axis milling machine made from a rotary tool, wood, and store bought fittings. Its in the July/August issue of SHOP NOTES magazine. Wish I could post a pic but there are rules of course.SHOP NOTES is a very informative magazine on woodworking and is usually more technical than say HANDYMAN or some of the others. All dimensions and materials are given for this tool and also the sources for parts are included check it out. BILL in Idaho

A few items of progress to report on. First, I added the minimal amount of deck planking that I'm going to do in the waist. As usual on this build, the planking is holly with pencil "caulking" and golden oak filler for "treenails". There is planking to frame the hatch and scuttle and to provide a base for the railings. 
 
Second, I made and installed the cap rail in the waist. This was done with boxwood strip bent to shape with a piece of half round molding glued to the outside edge and the assembly painted black. The molding extended beyond the cap rail and formed the first portion of the plank sheer molding. Third, I added the aft portion of the plank sheer molding, made from black painted half round. The forward portion won't be done until I do work on the head assemblies.
 
Next will be the hatch, barricade and ladders in the waist.
 
Bob
 
 
 

Hello Karl,
 
I know I am just repeating what everyone else says, but I also don't think it can be said enough.
 
Just incredible work, perfect colours, and equally good photography so that we can enjoy it properly.  You really are such an inspiration!

The spirketting and the quickwork have been installed.  The spirketting is installed top and butt fashion, just like the outer rows of deck planking.  It is 3" thick and the top edge of the upper row is champhered .  The quick work is 2" thick and extends to the edge of the sill lining.  I have not finalized the size of the hawse holes yet, so this area is not finished.  Both the quickwork and the spirketting are treenailed to every frame.  There is a single bolt at the butts and two bolts under each gun port.  I was unhappy with the appearance of the bolts and so removed as many as I could without damaging the planking.  I dyed some treenails with archival ink and used them instead of blackened brass for the bolts.  The appearance is much cleaner, as can be seen in the photos.  Compare the appearance of the brass with the dyed wood.  Unfortunately, the rest of the brass bolts are in for keeps.
 
I then applied a coat of Watco's, let it soak in for 30' and wiped everything down.  The next day I sanded it with 600 grit and put on a second very thin coat of finish.  The striations in the holly decking are in the wood and did not sand or scrape out. The lighting was poor so I did not have the opportunity to take before and after the finish pictures.  

I continued with the port propeller today but didn't quite finish it.  I managed fitting all the blades to the hub in relative good position as far as all being at the same distance to the hub and fitting inside the space behind the prop bearing housing.  
 
It was now time to cement the blades to the hub.  I used the slow cure two part epoxy cement giving me the time to position the blades equally spaced, and being at the same distance to the hub and all tracking the same.
 
For that I used a small steel machinist square and a piece of wood.  Hey, sorry but no fancy equipment here and one has to do what one has available that works   Of course now Jud expects me to balance them too!
 
I put a small piece of ⅛ tubing in a piece of wood so I can set the prop hub on it.  As the cement was curing I performed the final adjustments to the blades and went inside the house to have lunch.
 
After lunch I started cutting out the blades for the starboard prop and scribed the outlines on each peace of copper using the blades from the port prop as templet.  I used my tinsnips to cut the material away on the outside of the scribe lines and then sandwiched all them together and clamped them at the root end with a small pair of vicegrip pliers.   This way I could see the scribe marks and the contour of the blade ensuring that all will be the same.
The rest has to be done on an individual base.
 
It's putting the twist and camber in that's critical.   The first thing I do is bend the root into a slight curve as a start for the camber profile.  Then I work my way up bending the blade into a slight curve mimicking the camber profile.   I then put the blade into my bench vice at the root end end, between two pieces of plastic to not mar the blades, and with a pair of duckbill pliers I bend a twist into the blades.  Right now all this is just guesswork by eye.  The final shaping comes when I start fitting the blades into the hub.  
 
Now I file more of the profile into the blades on the convex side and after I have one blade pretty close to being to my satisfaction I use it as the standard, marked, and place the next blade in top to check the shape of that blade.  It may need more or less twist or more or less curve.  Adjustments are done with a piece of ¾ inch dowel and a small hammer and the duckbill pliers.
As y'all can imagine this takes a lot of time and it doesn't matter wether I have done one already that came out okay, this is a new model to shape.
When I'm happy with the twist and curve I use a few fine files to do the final shaping for the blade profile.  Polishing will come after the hub is painted and then we can cement the props to the shafts. 
 
Well, that's about how I did the port prop and expect the starboard one to work out okay as well, keep fingers crossed.
 
Okay, here are a few pics from today's efforts, hope you enjoy.
 

Here you see the propeller mounted to a small piece of ⅛ inch tubing in a block of wood.  I placed a small machinist square next to a blade and rotated the prop to see which blade needs to be adjusted.  I lucked out again and all were very close 
 

Here I used a small wood strip from the junk pile that was just the right thickness and tracked each blade for their correct tracking position.  I already determined that they were all shaped the same so checking in just one location for my purposes was sufficient.  Here too I lucked out
 

After the epoxy cement had cured enough I started to clean the blades and made a beginning of polishing the blades and painting the hub red.  After the paint had dried I had to put it on the boat - - - of course.   I am thrilled at how nice it looks, just like the real boat!  Final polishing will be done after the prop is balanced and then given a coat of lacquer to keep the copper bright.
 

This is a cloe-up, using flash.
 

Another close-up without flash.  It shows a little more detail.
 

Here is a shot looking alongside the hull aft, using flash.
 
Cheers,

I am happy again, new pictures. WOW Christmas in June, just what the Doctor order. This is Beautiful. Thank you for the update, keep the pictures coming, I am always waiting for a new update.

Thank-you everyone for taking the time to help!
 
Bob: I haven't totally ruled out metal yet. If my next few tries with resin don't work, then that may be next.
 
Steve: I did paint both sides of the mold first, but will try "CPR" on it next time. Goodness knows they certainly need resuscitation! 
I've made a couple of 2 barrel molds, and the setup time is about 8-10 minutes.
 
Ed: I am seriously considering metal as an alternative, but would like to give the resin another couple of tries using the advice given. 
I've included a few photos of my molds and some of the rejected barrels. 
 
The barrels look better in the photos than they really are, at least they don't look good to me. 
 
 

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