russ

The Byrnes thickness sander is the last one you will buy. It is a fine machine, made in America by a ship modeler who knows what we want and who will answer any questions you have about his tools. No regrets about spending few extra dollars.

Russ

They did not begin to lower the gaff until some time in the 19th century. Certainly in the late 18th century, when Bounty sailed, the driver/spanker was brailed up and the gaff was not lowered.

Russ

Thanks. I am very happy with how she turned out.

Russ

Given the rig, I would say no fighting top on the mainmast. Perhaps on the foremast. Generally schooners would not have had platforms up there, but since she was a naval vessel, an argument could be made for the fighting top on the foremast. I have never seen a fighting top on a mast without square sails set on it, but some research might discover something.

Russ

Sam:

No, the model had been completed a couple of weeks earlier and I just posted the build log on one day.

Russ

Very true. He is a nice guy who really appreciates the work.

Russ

Thanks.

Russ

Here is are two photographs of the happy client with his model.

Russ

Gerty:

Thanks. I appreciate it.

The client has taken possession and he is thrilled with the model. I am happy he likes it.

Russ

Kenneth:

Thanks. I like building a jig, any jig, so long as it is useful.

Russ

Pat:

Thanks. Although at 14" long, this is much larger than the earlier skiffs I have built.

Russ

I whole heartedly agree with Pete's assessment. mid to late 19th century, packet ships, brigs, and brigantines, especially those in the 200-500 ton range were immensely important to the development of ocean going commerce and they would make wonderful modeling subjects.

Russ

John:

Thanks. I should have mentioned that these pre milled materials require only a few basic hand tools. No power tools required. Most of what is needed is already in the modeler's tool kit that most of us have accumulated over a few years.

Russ

Mark:

Thanks. These skiffs were used for just about everything. They used them to tong oysters, from which to cast a small seine net for shrimp and other fish, etc. Many people had them just for transportation. They could haul light loads here and there as well. Some were larger and wider, but this 14 ft variety was very popular. There are not many of the older boats left because of changing times, storms etc. When I surveyed skiffs along the coast back in 2000, I could only find 6-7 examples.

This boat would have been a good rowing skiff, although there were quite a few sculled. Here is a skiff that was set up for sculling. Note the notch in the transom.

Russ

John:

Thanks. This is one of those projects that can be done in a week or two. I like to build these every once in a while just to take a break from whatever else I am doing. I know it is nothing new and not very exciting, but this is a good way to get out of the doldrums sometimes.

Russ

Just a few notes on this model. The plans were drawn in CAD and be scaled to any size. The wood all comes from Hobby Lobby. It is all premilled sheet and strip wood. Nothing fancy here, but it can be made into a nice looking model. The paints were all Artist's acrylics except for the Minwax stain and sealer for the oars. For about $50, I can make 1/2 dozen of these skiffs, all painted and fitted differently and to any style I choose. Not a bad way to use some spare time.

Thanks for looking in. I appreciate it. Please let me know if there are any questions.

Russ

One last touch was a name for the boat. My client wanted to name it for his uncle Geo. So, I made a water slide decal with the name on a small banner. This is a local motif, although it is usually found on larger boats. However, it looks pretty good on the skiff.

Here are a few detail photos. The oarlocks were soldered brass wire and strip. They were painted grey. The oars were made with a few pieces of dowel and some sheet wood for the blades. The handles had a slot cut into their ends where the blade was fitted. Everything was shaped with sand paper and then stained and sealed. These could be painted as another option.

The painter was from some of Chuck's rope from Syren Ship Models.

Next the interior was painted and this is the finished model.

Russ

Let the painting begin. Not my favorite thing to do. First the white topsides and the red bottom. Not perfect, but I console myself with the knowledge that even in life, these were not perfect.

Here is a look at the oarlock bases.

Here is what the skiff looks like with all the major work done.

Bob:

Thanks. There are a number of different options. This one is a typical work boat. White topsides with red bottom and a dark green interior. The one I have on the bench right now will be the same outer scheme with a grey interior. I might use side frames on the inner hull on this one.

You can also make a boat that is more pleasure than work. Length plank the bottom with full internal framing and perhaps use a different paint scheme. The seats can be done differently as well. In the boat with internal framing, the seats can sit on an internal stringer that mounted on the side frames. No well on that boat. I can also fit that boat with a cat rig and a centerboard case. Maybe I would like to dress it up a bit with a natural finish and put in all the fastenings. There are a lot of options if you think about it a bit.

Russ

The bottom has a plank keel with a small skeg forward and a larger skeg aft.