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russ

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Everything posted by russ

  1. Any kind of stain or clear finish will impede glue adhesion. You should make your glue joints and then stain or seal. As for oil or water base, that is a matter of personal taste. If you have a problem with fumes and/or like the ease of clean up with water based products, then go that route. I prefer Minwax products, but others may have some more suggestions. Russ
  2. The American Fishing Schooners 1825-1935 by Howard Chapelle is probably the single best source for rigging details for those schooners. He included his field notes and sketches in the second half of the book. It may not answer every question, but it will certainly fill in some blanks on how those ships were rigged. Russ
  3. Underhill's Masting and Rigging has not been updated and so far as I know no one has attempted to do any really fresh research on that subject. It is NOT the second volume of Plank on Frame Models. They are two completely different books. Russ
  4. Mike: The decks look very good. I like how the color scheme is coming together between decks, bulwarks, and outer hull. Russ
  5. Both are very good books. I have them both. The planking book will help you plank any wooden shipmodel, while Underhill's book on rigging is geared towards later 19th century and early 20th century merchant vessels. If they are in usable condition, the price is excellent. Russ
  6. Pete: The framework looks really good. Question: Was the transom expansion lofted on the plans or did you originally use the transom from the body plan? If you used the transom from the body plan that would explain why you needed to reloft it. Russ
  7. So long as you are not trying to bend it along its width you should be okay. Russ
  8. There are tables for blocks and tackle dimensions in Shipmodeler's Shopnotes, published by the NRG. The information comes from late 18th century and early 19th century sources. Russ
  9. One thing to keep in mind is that when dealing with store bought dowels of any wood species, it is very difficult to know if the grain is running the length of the piece or not. In many cases, they grain is running across the piece in some way and that is one reason why dowels like that are prone to warping etc. By beginning with a piece of straight hardwood stock, it is easier to get the grain running all in one direction to ensure that the piece will not tend to warp. Of course having good stock to begin with helps. Russ
  10. Pete: You are making good progress. Once it is all trimmed up, I think it will look fine. Russ
  11. You will not find the dowels in the more interesting species. Usually you get birch or basswood in ready made dowels. For the any other species, you will need to get square stock and make your own dowels from that. Russ
  12. Pete: You can add the hinge pin on the lower forward corner of the board. That will make the centerboard work. The wire rod will most likely extend up through the case a bit and then attach the rope for the tackle to that rod. Russ
  13. Dave: Thanks for the kind words. As for deck planking, a general rule of thumb would be 15-20 ft with some fudge factor on either side of those numbers. I have mapped out where deck beams would fall and the deck planking arrnaged so that the butts fall on deck beams. Russ
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