russ
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Everything posted by russ
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Basswood will work fine. It can be painted and, with some care, you can stain it. Copper plating over it is no problem. Russ
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Henry: On a larger, offshore vessel, there would most likely be a chain locker, but we are talking about an oyster boat that works close inshore and in only a few feet of water. There is no chain locker on such a small vessel and the chain is usually just wrapped around the warping heads on a very simple windlass that is bolted to the bowsprit bitts. Russ
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Kenneth: The outboard colors look very good. I would go with red ochre for the inboard works. That would period appropriate. Russ
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I have never seen any attachment for that free end of the chain in these working boats here in the states. Just wrapped several times around the warping head. Russ
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The chain should wrap several times around the warping heads that are on the outer part of the windlass. Russ
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Kimberley: This kit can be made into a very nice looking model. The model is based on an actual French frigate named Vestale, from the mid 1750s. Here is a brief Wikipedia article, although it has no references, so it is entirely open to question. However, check out the photo. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_ship_Vestale_(1756) Good luck with your build. Russ
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- jolly roger
- lindberg
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Sam: Just crimp the one on the right together just below the deadeye and it will be perfect. No need for the soft solder to fill that area. I am fine, just VERY busy. later. Russ
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Sam: Do not place the deadeye in the strop until after it has been soldered. The high temp solder is what you want to use as hard soldering will give you the best joint, but you want to make the strop and then insert the deadeye afterwards. The strop should be flexible enough to "spring" over the deadeye and into the groove on the deadeye, after which you can crimp it down as needed with some needle nose pliers. Russ
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Cross-section by russ - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
russ replied to russ's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
John: Thanks for looking in. The model was completed about 10 years ago. Russ -
Kenneth: Good work. Your planking looks like it went pretty well. Looking forward to some more pics. Russ
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I have used Western alder to make spars, ripping my square stock and then rounding over the pieces. Alder is a good straight grained wood. I have not had any pieces warp on me yet. This covers 10 years in the open air of the house so far. Russ
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Sam: That looks good. The size and spacing look about right. Nice work. One suggestion in these situations is to actually fasten the steps into the hull. This can be done by drilling holes in the back side of the steps and glueing in wood or bamboo pegs and then drilling holes in the hull to accept those pegs. I would use two pegs per step. You can use the pegs mounted into the steps to locate their holes in the hull before drilling. Russ
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Elia: I do not know anything about Floquil. I suggested using the toner sold by Bluejacket. It is not a primer persay. It works like any other chemcial toner. Not sure what the resulting color might be. Russ
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Bluejacket sells a toner for Britannia metal. Russ
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Ed: You can download Lloyd's rules for building wooden ships. Russ
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- young america
- clipper
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She would have had them at that time, but I doubt they were rigged during the battle. Russ
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This has been brought up I do not know how many times over the years. No, it is not true. Someone just made it up and for many years now, we have been plagued with it. Her first sortie was in July 1798 and she cruised in the Caribbean later that year and into 1799 to protect US shipping against the French during the Quasi War between the US and France that lasted from 1798-1801. The US was not at war with Great Britain at this time and she did not engage any British ships nor was she anywhere near the Azores or Scotland. I have read the logbook for this period and I can tell you that the story above is just not true. Her storage capacity is probably about right for the most part. I am sure you can nit pick on many details there, but the water and shot capacity are probably very close to correct. During her time in the Carribbean, she stayed at sea for over a year, being replenished at sea by supply ships. Russ
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I could see doing some careful touch up as you mentioned, but I would not do anything really drastic. It will look good with just a bit of touch up. I think overall it looks good. Nice work. Russ
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Carlos: Alas, I have had MANY bad experiences with sharing my plans in the past and I am, at this point, not willing to do so. It is my intention to publish my research on Biloxi schooners at some time in the future and perhaps then I will make my plans available. You can get other plans from AJFisher.com. They have a solid hull kit and you can get the plans separately as well. I see Kenneth has just posted the same advice. Russ
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Overall, the planking looks good. Like you noted, there will be some more sanding, but everything looks even from side to side. Very good work so far. Russ
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Janet: There will be a lot of different suggestions. I have had good results using a pre stain conditioner right before I stain. If it is any kind of soft wood, it will have some areas that will absorb more stain than other areas, leaving you with a blotchy appearance. The pre stain conditioner is colorless and will soak in and provide for a more even distribution of the stain so that the finish will be more uniform. I use Minwax pre stain conditioner and then their oil based stains. Hope this helps. Russ
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Thickness sanders.....Byrnes vs Micro Mart
russ replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have the Byrnes Model Machines thickness sander. It is the best on the market. Buy quality and you buy once. Russ -
Sam: The metal work looks good. I would not worry too much about that one band. It will not attract that much notice amidst the rest of them. Russ
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Bob: Congratulations on a fine model and a very interesting build. Russ
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John: The rigging is really nice, especially at this scale. The seizings are incredible. Wonderful work. Russ
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