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russ

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Everything posted by russ

  1. That is looking very good so far. Nice work on the oars. Russ
  2. Darcy Lever's Young Officer's Sheet Anchor would be good. It has text and illustrations and dates to that early 19th century period. Russ
  3. I can see the grooves for the cant frames. Very nice work, especially at scale. Russ
  4. Ken: Perfect would be nice, but I think they look good as is. Like I said before, once you get the deck fixtures and cannons installed, everything will look great. Nice work. Russ
  5. Nice work on the deck planking. It looks very good. The treenails look just right to my eye. Russ
  6. John: Thanks. The deck is coming along just like I hoped it would so far. Russ
  7. Very nice model. The rigging looks great. Congratulations on a fine finished project. Russ
  8. Your hull looks great. Nice job on the coppering. Russ
  9. Think of the timberheads as the very top part of the bulwarks frame.The kit's instructions were off on this issue obviously. You are right that you should add the top piece right on the rail. Be sure to pin them to the rail so they do not have a chance to pop off in the middle of rigging. Russ
  10. Michael: That is more or less what it looks like. Very simple, yet very effective. Russ
  11. Michael: Thanks for the kind words. The cleats were probably not governed by any rule except what the locals had found to work over time. These kinds of cleats were found on many local boats, even today. There is usually an inch or two clearance top and bottom, but I have seen it left pretty tight. There is enough room to wrap a line around the cleat above and below. The range of rigging line diameters on these schooners went from 3/8"-1'2" to maybe 5/8"-3/4" diameter. This cleat was probably used for the jib sheets and maybe halyards as well, depending on what other belaying points were available. By the by, I could have simply used a metal bar through a stanchion, fore and aft, as a cleat. I have seen plenty of examples of that as well. In my local research, I have that such details are usually best taken from contemporary photos. There are no local plans that show these small details, and there is just not enough contemporary oral history to use for guidance on this sort of thing. Russ
  12. John: That is exactly right. I am just happy to be making ANY kind of progress. Russ
  13. Dave: The shields look good to my eye. I think the weathering is fine. Russ
  14. Ratlines are about 1/2" diameter so at your scale, .008" diameter would be correct. However, anything within a hair of that would do, most likely. Russ
  15. Sam: Thanks. I was careful to get a good centerline marked on the false deck and the first plank was laid right up against that line. It worked out well so far. Russ
  16. Sam: Why not just drill through the rail for the pins? That would make more sense than adding the pin rack. Make a paper template for the pin spacing, then mark on the rail, and use the drill bit to indent the marks. Hold a scrap piece of wood under the rail to prevent any splintering underneath while you drill. Russ
  17. Thanks for the kind words. Yes, this model has a long way to go yet. Russ
  18. Pete: Beautiful details. I really like that trim piece around the deck. It has a good scale appearance. Excellent call on the size of it. Russ
  19. Sam: The timberheads would have been the upper part of the hull framing. They would come right up through the caprail rather than inboard of it. Nice work on the stern port lids. Russ
  20. The scratch built companionway looks great. One of the great things about building large scale models of smaller vessels is that you can recreate a lot of interesting detail such as the framing of the hatchway. Very good work. Russ
  21. Several years back I saw some posts on this kit on the Fine Scale Modeler forum. Might check there and see what you find. Russ
  22. Nice work so far. I have seen good reviews about this kit over the years. It should build into a nice model. Russ
  23. The paint work and planking all look really good. Excellent work. Russ
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