russ
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Everything posted by russ
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Gabe: You are doing good work. I like the way you are getting around the problems and getting good results. Nice work. Russ
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Sam: So far the carriages look good. About the trucks. The sides of the carriages were slotted for the axels. Thus the axels were recessed into the carriage sides. Russ
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Andy: So far it is looking VERY good. Nice work. Russ
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Any fruit wood should be good for framing or planking. I have used American cherry on several projects and had good results. It is hard, holds a good edge when sawed, and varies from darker reddish brown (heartwood) to a lighter brown (sapwood). It can be a bit knotty in spots and it best to avoid those areas because the wood is not as stable around knots. Cherry will make good framing or planking. For planking, some folks like to "paint with wood" meaning they use different woods to mimic the color scheme. Boxwood might be good for the upper side planking while something darker could be used for the wales. Or, if you want to paint your model, cherry or some other similar hard wood could be used throughout. Russ
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Can you post a pic of the piece you are working on? That would help us understand the problem. Russ
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The shrouds are the vertical lines and the ratlines are the horizontal lines across the shrouds. The ratlines are thinner, typically about 1/2 inch scale diameter. As Daniel said, they are tied to each shroud with a clove hitch. Russ
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Mike: Some photos would help us to see exactly what you are dealing with. That will make offering some advice easier. Russ
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Mike: That is the right attitude to use when doing this sort of modeling. If it gets bad, just walk away and come back to it when you feel like it. Good call. Russ
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Kurt: Contact Model Expo. They will replace whatever you need free of charge. That is their policy. Russ
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I am not sure if he was asking for online sources or supplying them, but I get my chain from Bluejacket Shipcrafters, if that helps. Russ
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It seems to be coming aong very nicely. Good work. Once you have the wood down to about 1/16" or 1/32" you should be good. Whatever thickness you choose, just make sure it is fairly uniform along the length of the bulwarks. Russ
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I use yellow carpenter's glue. It is a water based glue and has always worked for me. Russ
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Bug: Thanks for looking in and the kind words. I am hoping to have some more work shop time soon. Russ
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The paint work looks pretty good in the photos. I do not see anything that needs touching up. Nice work. Russ
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The platform came out quite well. I like the notching around the frames. Russ
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John: Is there any way to fill in the parts of the rabbet you do not need? Probably not, but it was a thought. Russ
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Very good work. It seems to be coming together nicely. Russ
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That is really nice. They both look very happy. Congratulations. Russ
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Very nice work. The timberheads look good. Russ
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Shawn: Very well done. This is a beautiful model. Congratulations. Russ
- 31 replies
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Gary: The plans are most likely out of scale. They probably printed to fit on the paper they used. That would throw the scale out and the laser cut parts would not match the drawings. My advice would be to test fit the hull together and see if the bulkheads fit the profile former, meaning that the top of the bulkhead sits properly on the profile former etc. You can eyeball the curves of the hull once they are dry fit together to see if there are any that are too far out of whack. If they are close enough and the fit on the profile former is good, then I say go ahead and build the model and do not worry about the parts matching up perfectly to the plans. If there are any big problems with the laser cut parts, then you need to contact Model Expo directly and request replacements. Russ
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It looks great. But why not just steam/wet bend the frames and place them directly into the shell of the hull? Russ
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That is really nice work, especially at that scale. Well done. Russ
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Brett: Like it or not, you just gave the entire world your email address. I would suggest you go back and edit your post to take out your email information and then send it through a PM which the entire world cannot see. Russ
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Given Casey's reply, I should mention that my advice was from experience using carpenter's glue not CA. Since I do not use CA except in rare instances, I cannot give any good advice about it within this context. However, using carpenter's glue, definitely glue, then stain/seal. Russ
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