russ
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Everything posted by russ
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I agree with John. On that model, the thread will work fine to imitate wire rope. Russ
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Bob: Hey, if you are having fun, that is all that really matters. Russ
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Bob: At the risk of sounding like an idiot (would not be the first or the last time), was there not a drawing of the sail on the plan that you could trace? Russ
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Thanks. This project has been done for several years now, but it is still one of my favorites. My current project is a scratch built Biloxi schooner. See my signature. I just need to work in some time to make some progress on her. Not much modeling time lately. Russ
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Thanks. I had a great time doing it. Russ
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Kimberley: The model looks good. I think the sails came out rather nicely. Good work. Russ
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Kimberley: I would not get too discouraged. The model seems to be coming along well. Poor thread should not get you down. It happens. I would get some better thread. The local crafts store should have a nice supply of thread that would work better. Yes, it is a bit more work, but you can make those shrouds look nice and taut with a little more effort. Chin up. This is part of the craft. Russ
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The pin racks look good. I agree that having hidden pins to anchor them is a good idea. I do this with bamboo or hardwood pins, but the brass pins ought to work well. Nice work. Russ
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Kimberley: On ships of that era, having the bowsprit offset to one side was not uncommon. That looks about right in the photograph. Russ
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- santa maria
- revell
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Having not seen your model I cannot say very much. I would suggest posting some pics of each side and let's see what you are dealing with. I would not think it absolutely necessary to get both sides to be exactly alike. They should be close, but so long as they are both smooth and close to the lines of the templates, you should be okay. If by B1 and B2 you mean the buttock lines, I would say no. Stick with the templates that they gave you. Russ
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My article was more about reading a lines drawing, especially if you ant to learn how to redraw a plan and draw your own frames. It really does not help much in fairing a solid hull. Have you looked at the practica written by Chuck Passaro for the Phantom and Sultana kits? He discusses fairing a solid hull using the templates provided in the kit. Russ
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Those deadeyes look very good. The jig really makes a difference in getting the holes lined up. Nice work. Russ
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Gerty: Thanks. I am hopeful of getting back to the shop at some point this month. Hopeful. Russ
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I have never edge glued deck planks. I always glue them to the deck beams or the false deck as the case may be. That is why I have never had to wipe or scrape glue off the deck after installation. I have scraped the deck to get a smoother surface after they were installed, but never to get glue off. Russ
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John: The deadwood and keel look great. One question. Will you cut a curve into the top edge of the deadwood or leave it stepped? Russ
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- francis pritt
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Ken: If it is square stock, you can edge bend it, but on something that is much wider than it is thick, you would have to laminate several pieces of square stock to get the full width you need. You can do that, but short of filling and painting, there is really no way to make it look like it is all one piece. I think the slight amount of work involved in cutting it out of a sheet is really worth it to get the look you want. Russ
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Ken: I traced the shape of the caprail onto a wide piece of basswood and then cut it out with a scalpel. Cut just outside the lines and then use an emory board to VERY carefully sand the rail to its final shape. Actually, this is best done wit the rail in two or three sections because it is easy to break the piece. This method will take a bit of time and you might have to go through a couple of versions to get it right, but it is much easier than trying to edge bend a piece that wide. Russ
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Ken: You are doing good work on this kit. I see what you mean about the deck planks. I have had great results using a generic number 2 pencil and shading only one edge of the planks. Match the shaded edge to a plain edge and there will be a good representation of a caulked seam and there should not be any residue to casue the smudging problems. Russ
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Ron: I am glad you got the jig sorted out. This is one reason why I make my deadeye jigs out of wood. Maybe not as durable, but I can make new ones with ease and they will last long enough to make what deadeyes I need for a given small vessel project. Russ
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The shrouds and ratlines look very good. Excellent work. Russ
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The deadeyes and chainplates look good. As for the depth of color you want, I have always made repeated applications of my blackener until I got the color I wanted. Russ
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Ron: The deadeyes look very good. Nice work on the jig. That makes it a lot easier in my experience. Russ
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Congratulations on a great model. It is really beautiful. Well done. Russ
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Red ochre was typically available back then and fairly inexpensive. It was used a lot in ships of that period, particularly for inboard works. Russ
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Kenneth: The red looks very good. I also like the cypress stand. Very nice touch with some local flavor. Russ
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