NMBROOK

Hello shipmates, thank you all for  the likes and for passing by!!
The stanchions and handrails on the masts are painted and glued in place...
 
Kind Regards
Dimitris

While finishing first planking, I have decided to break a routine and play a little bit with oils, waxes,... for final finish.
 
On the first picture all used materials could be seen and on second samples on wood. For all finishes 2 coats were used, always rubbed with 0000 steel wool between coats and also on final coat.
 
I tried my best to represent actual colors on picture, but nevertheless all efforts (shoot in RAW, additional flash lightning, manipulation in LightRoom) colors in real looks little different - better. 
 
Final decision will wait a little bit, because I am also trying different methods for aging. Currently I am leaning towards nr. 1. 
 
A little note to "odd" look of nr. 1. and 5. On corners bitumen mix was used for aging and I made mistake rubbing it with steel wool.

Not familiar with this kit, but the name somehow pop out!!!     

Thanks to all for the 'likes'
 
Pat - welcome aboard!
 
Nigel - great point Nigel, I think this will come down to balancing two evils, eliminating the risk of damage during sanding or the risk of introducing a gap.  The dimensions of the walnut strip are not very precise, and I was orginally hoping to use the much tighter dimension of the boxwood as a guide.  Either way, I'm going to try to finish the planking near the wales as much as possible before installing to reduce potential damage to wale.  Will ponder this further...
 
Mobbsie - welcome back, jedi master!  I'm going to do what any self respecting ditherer will do, avoid making the decision until I absolutely need to, think I've got plenty to do in the meantime 
 
Big step for me today, managed to spile my first plank.  Used masking tape to get an approximate first cut at the needed shape, and then made up a cardboard template to fine tune.  Because the cardboard bends I made a 'master' template shown for final marking of the profile.  Hopefully the kids won't notice, I had to raid the cereal cabinet for cardboard supplies...Initially I made the plank 4mm wide full length to match the strip to be used elsewhere, but changed this to reduce to 3mm at the front end to look a bit more in keeping with contemporary models.  It should probably be less than that, but any thinner would likely be too hard to work with.
 
The outside edge was cut and fine tuned first as its convex and easily done with extra to hold on to.  The inside edge was gradually nibbed away (very carefully) using a dremel sander.  Think I'll leave the fine tuning until its glued on.  Plank was bent using a steam iron to approximate shape to make glueing easier.
 

 
In position....not glued yet.
 

That is going to look supercrisp Jason One suggestion which you may or may not have though of.I personally would plank about the walnut and sand smooth before fitting the box blackstrake.This would maintain the crisp edge to the strake added afterwards and is much easier to sand to a fair surface
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

That is going to look supercrisp Jason One suggestion which you may or may not have though of.I personally would plank about the walnut and sand smooth before fitting the box blackstrake.This would maintain the crisp edge to the strake added afterwards and is much easier to sand to a fair surface
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Looking at the pics I can't help but think that is the finished product.I suspect the other side is fully planked and this side is to be left open to show the frames.This does follow actual construction process on the real thing but can't help think it is frought with problems on a model even with a planking expansion drawing.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I've now finished off the work at the bow with the addition of the hawse plates and the remaining moldings.
 
The hawse plates themselves are simple, but getting the holes through them, particularly for the bowsprit, proved tricky. All of the holes must be done parallel with the keel and at the proper angle. The large size of the bowsprit hole made this critical.To be cautious, I drilled a hole no more than half the required size for the bowsprit, and then used round files to open it out to the full size. It became a matter of filing and fitting until I could just get a dowel of the diameter of the bowsprit at that point through the hole at the proper alignment and angle. This was a tedious process.
 
After finishing that work, I added the remaining moldings to the hull side and the cap rail edge, including the little molding extensions that Chuck has called "ears". The ears required a couple of tries to get them right. I finished up this work by giving the entire cap rail two additional coats of black paint.
 
Next, I am beginning the deck planking process by doing the margin planks and waterway.
 
Bob
 
 

A busy week. First, I made and added the moldings on the upper hull. They are boxwood strip done with a simple razor blade scraper. Unlike Chuck, I did only one shape. I left off the bow portions until I do the hawse plates -- the next order of business.
 
After the moldings, I made and added the cap rail. The forward portions and the piece over the transom were cut from boxwood sheet, using card templates for the shape. I was able to edge bend the remaining portions from strip.After mounting, I added the molding strip to the outer edge of the rail. I left off the molding at the bow until the hawse plates are added. The rail assembly was painted black. I will likely do an additional coat or two of paint after the bow area is completed.
 
Bob

Bit more work to show.  Wales have had a fair bit of work done on them to significant imperfections.  Couple of coats of paint were put on undiluted, followed by 3 coats of 50% diluted with surface finishing in between.  I need to see the finish in daylight to confirm whether I'm done or not...
 
Once again, I'm taking a different approach to the blackstrake from the instructions indicate a 0.5x3mm wide strip on top of the wale.  Estimating from the AOTS it looks more like 4mm which I think will sit better with the other 4mm planking.  Given I only have 1x4mm boxwood strips, I installed a 0.5x4mm walnut strip directly above the wale onto which I'll lay the boxwood strip.
 

 
This did (of course) introduce another wrinkle to deal with.  6 airing ports are needed, but these will encroach onto the blackstrake.  Not sure how exactly I'll handle these yet (they are small, ~2x4mm) but think I do want to try to install these rather than just simulating by scoring the planking which I know I'll not be happy with.  Interestingly, NMM models omit these ports and I am considering that as well - maybe less is more here.  Opinions anyone?
 

And now let we open the box to start discovering its content . .  
At first the model plans in 1:35 scale: this is a single sheet. This fact is not surprising as a viking ship is not a three decker, but something much more simple. In the same photo the paper version of the assembly instructions.      
01 P1100351.jpg.
 
Unfortunately (but it is not my case) for non english mothertongue, the instructions are written in English, but the online version are also in Czech, French and Spanish. At a shallow reading it seems clear and quite simple; if there are some inaccuracies they are not established at this time; it's probably necessary to start working before finding something wrong. Below some sample scanned pages to be taken as an example.
 
02 gokstad35-english_1414511927-3.jpg.

03 gokstad35-english_1414511927-4.jpg

04 gokstad35-english_1414511927-5.jpg

 
Finally, the actual content of the kit: laser pre-cut pieces of plywood and veneer of various thicknesses. 
 
05 P1100349.jpg
 
In the next post we will see more in detail these pieces.
 
Sincerely, Jack.Aubrey
 

Let's see the content of the kit item per item . .  
in the box we find some pre laser cut plywood boards wrapped in a plastic wrap to protect them from "accidents" . .   
01 P1100350.jpg

 
Keel, frames or bulkheads, and a base for the pedestal . .
 
02 P1100356r.jpg

 
Deck, various rods, probably to be used in building the tree and the several oars . . and, in the upper left, some smaller pieces, some of them made with metal, packed in plastic envelops. .
 
03 P1100353r.jpg

 
The strakes . . as you can see they are not straight strips, but pre-cut pieces rather crooked . . meaning a design with a 3D CAD software. .
 
04 P1100354.jpg

 
Other strakes, the round shields, that characterized these boats, and fine wood fittings for the deck  . .
 
05 P1100355.jpg

 
That's all for now, the kit presentation ends here . . . Now all what remains to do is to start building . . but you will have to wait for it until I'll come back in Tuscany (planned for mid December), here I work only on the "Brick de guerre de 24".
 
Sincerely, Jack.Aubrey.
 
 
   

I know the decision is already made but have to interject that basswood can be used pretty effectively and has a bad rap that is a bit unjustified.  My fully framed Druid is 95% basswood.  Now it is 1/48th scale but.....I don't think I have done a disservice by her.  The smaller details which require details and / or strength (figurehead, railings) were done with boxwood - the other 5%.
 
The original question for me was cost and availability - if not basswood it would never have occurred.  However after completing it, I am very comfortable with the selection of basswood again - albeit this time with paint for some color.
 
If you can afford it or have access go ahead and choose what you want.  However, if you want to build and have budget concerns feel free to use basswood.
 
Mark

I fully understand what you are saying Chris.I think a part of this hobby is to take on board what everyone says and use whatever you are comfortable with.I never used to caulk planking originally when I started then just used pencil from then on.Everyone has a different idea as to how their model should look.This doesn't necessarily mean following someone's lead,more follow your ideas.Over the years I have studied the works of many master builders and picked up snippets from many of them.I deliberately will not pick one and reproduce their techniques because then it is not my style of modelling.I would much rather look outside the box and think of how the model should look as I want it.I may have started this hobby at a relatively young age and been doing it for over thirty years,but I wouldn't regard myself as a master by any means,just further down the road than some,but not as far as others.
In essence Chris,do what ever YOU want to do with the model.I post on here because I want to illustrate my way of doing things,if someone chooses to use one of my techniques,then great,not then fair enough.I certainly don't want people to think that I believe my way is the only way.Like they say 'There is more than one way to skin a cat',sorry not very PC.
Your post popped up before I could post this LOL
In answer to your question all I will say,I have seen the deck caulking being done on the Cutty Sark refit and it was black tar.I have stood on the deck of Victory and Warrior and it is black tar.It does actually look like black mastic,but I am confident it isn't
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

My trial with black tissue paper has been a success.Using a similar technique to Steve,the tissue was glued to the plank edges first,trimmed back and then the planks laid in the normal way.The glue fully penetrated the tissue so there was no issue of it 'tearing out' when sanding.The glue penetration was an important issue for me as this will be used on the hull planking and keel scarph joints as well as the deck.Having used a pencil for many,many years,I do feel that this gives a superior look that is jet black without the greyish tinge you get from graphite.The picture doesn't really do it much justice and the planks were rough cut for the test(I didn't even put a fine blade in the table saw)
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I use ashes of cigarette mixed with water and white glue.

I have tried a number of methods of simulating caulking. I found that pencil graphite smudged too much when sanded. I used the marker pen method for a while - it worked OK. I've now come up with a quicker and (I think easier) method. Purchase a liquid shoe polish (in the colour of your choice) but get one with the foam applicator on the end.
 
Load the shoe polish into the foam applicator by squeezing the bottle while holding the foam applicator in a tissue. Mount the polish bottle (foam applicator end up) in a vice so that it is stable and slide the plank along the foam applicator - I find I have more control if I slide the plank along the foam rather than the foam along the plank (don't push down on the plank or the polish will go onto the face of the plank) The polish dries very quickly so you can glue it to the deck immediately. I only `caulk' one side and one end of each plank.
 

 
 

I fully understand what you are saying Chris.I think a part of this hobby is to take on board what everyone says and use whatever you are comfortable with.I never used to caulk planking originally when I started then just used pencil from then on.Everyone has a different idea as to how their model should look.This doesn't necessarily mean following someone's lead,more follow your ideas.Over the years I have studied the works of many master builders and picked up snippets from many of them.I deliberately will not pick one and reproduce their techniques because then it is not my style of modelling.I would much rather look outside the box and think of how the model should look as I want it.I may have started this hobby at a relatively young age and been doing it for over thirty years,but I wouldn't regard myself as a master by any means,just further down the road than some,but not as far as others.
In essence Chris,do what ever YOU want to do with the model.I post on here because I want to illustrate my way of doing things,if someone chooses to use one of my techniques,then great,not then fair enough.I certainly don't want people to think that I believe my way is the only way.Like they say 'There is more than one way to skin a cat',sorry not very PC.
Your post popped up before I could post this LOL
In answer to your question all I will say,I have seen the deck caulking being done on the Cutty Sark refit and it was black tar.I have stood on the deck of Victory and Warrior and it is black tar.It does actually look like black mastic,but I am confident it isn't
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

You are correct Chris,I agree perfect model.He obtained plank definition by blunting the corners of the planking,at 1/36 this is more easily done than at smaller scales.Interestingly someone asks the question in the text.I am not arguing the point,each to their own,my favorite model also doesn't show caulking,interestingly by the builder who was discussing the issues with using paper:
 
http://www.shipmodels.com.ua/eng/models/elite/le_ambiteux/index.htm
 
There are many other details that could or could not be depicted on a model,again all down to the builder's discretion.

My trial with black tissue paper has been a success.Using a similar technique to Steve,the tissue was glued to the plank edges first,trimmed back and then the planks laid in the normal way.The glue fully penetrated the tissue so there was no issue of it 'tearing out' when sanding.The glue penetration was an important issue for me as this will be used on the hull planking and keel scarph joints as well as the deck.Having used a pencil for many,many years,I do feel that this gives a superior look that is jet black without the greyish tinge you get from graphite.The picture doesn't really do it much justice and the planks were rough cut for the test(I didn't even put a fine blade in the table saw)
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I will complicate things even further for you Jason Did you know you can apply polyurethane over Tung oil?Only recommendation according to my research is to allow a few days for the oil to finish 'gassing out'.Surprisingly my research says that Tung oil is one of the finishes far less likely to 'yellow'.This is a lesser amount than poly.Sorry for confusing you further.This is only down to surfing the net and not my own experience.
The blue does look good and probably one of the best unmixed shades I have seen
Anyway,I will let you get back to your planking
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I will complicate things even further for you Jason Did you know you can apply polyurethane over Tung oil?Only recommendation according to my research is to allow a few days for the oil to finish 'gassing out'.Surprisingly my research says that Tung oil is one of the finishes far less likely to 'yellow'.This is a lesser amount than poly.Sorry for confusing you further.This is only down to surfing the net and not my own experience.
The blue does look good and probably one of the best unmixed shades I have seen
Anyway,I will let you get back to your planking
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

My trial with black tissue paper has been a success.Using a similar technique to Steve,the tissue was glued to the plank edges first,trimmed back and then the planks laid in the normal way.The glue fully penetrated the tissue so there was no issue of it 'tearing out' when sanding.The glue penetration was an important issue for me as this will be used on the hull planking and keel scarph joints as well as the deck.Having used a pencil for many,many years,I do feel that this gives a superior look that is jet black without the greyish tinge you get from graphite.The picture doesn't really do it much justice and the planks were rough cut for the test(I didn't even put a fine blade in the table saw)
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

My trial with black tissue paper has been a success.Using a similar technique to Steve,the tissue was glued to the plank edges first,trimmed back and then the planks laid in the normal way.The glue fully penetrated the tissue so there was no issue of it 'tearing out' when sanding.The glue penetration was an important issue for me as this will be used on the hull planking and keel scarph joints as well as the deck.Having used a pencil for many,many years,I do feel that this gives a superior look that is jet black without the greyish tinge you get from graphite.The picture doesn't really do it much justice and the planks were rough cut for the test(I didn't even put a fine blade in the table saw)
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I will complicate things even further for you Jason Did you know you can apply polyurethane over Tung oil?Only recommendation according to my research is to allow a few days for the oil to finish 'gassing out'.Surprisingly my research says that Tung oil is one of the finishes far less likely to 'yellow'.This is a lesser amount than poly.Sorry for confusing you further.This is only down to surfing the net and not my own experience.
The blue does look good and probably one of the best unmixed shades I have seen
Anyway,I will let you get back to your planking
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel