bdgiantman2

@tlevine
 
Hi Toni,
thank you for your interest in my construction report and the appreciation of my work.
Many thanks also to the others for the many LIKES.
 
Continued: Equipment of the yards
As announced in the last part of my construction report, I equip the larger yards with real discs. As before, I make these discs out of brass and blue them. As far as I know, these discs were usually made of lignum vitae. The rather dark brown coloring of this wood can be easily imitated with a blue finish.
For the main yard and the fore yard, the sheaves have a diameter of 2.9 mm. The main topsail yard, fore topsail yard and mizzen yard are fitted with sheaves with a diameter of 2.0 mm.
With the following series of pictures I would like to illustrate how I make the sheaves. Since my turning skills are limited and with these small diameters, I made the circular groove with a jeweller's saw. The fine saw blade I use for this has a thickness of 0.15 mm. I can control the width of the groove. The more inclined I lead the saw blade, the wider the groove. As a rule, the groove has a width of around 0.2 mm.

 
After cutting the sheaves, I grind them to the required thickness according to the size of the protrusion for the sheaves, i. H. about ø 0.6 mm or 0.8 mm. For grinding, I made myself an aid, the tip of which engages in the axle hole and thus enables the sheaves to be guided more or less evenly for grinding.


 
 
The axle bores of the sheaves were made with ø 0.8 mm larger than the axle diameter ø 0.4 mm itself. This makes the installation of the sheaves much easier and also compensates for small inaccuracies.

 
The next pictures should give an impression of the installation of the sheaves. As can be seen in the second picture, the axle holes are not exactly opposite. This is due to the fact that I have to drill the ø 0.4 mm holes for the axles from each side. If you try to drill these holes in one go from one side, it can easily happen that the hole on the other side does not arrive in the middle due to the thin drill and other inaccuracies. This is then much more disturbing than the axis points that are not exactly opposite, which is no longer noticeable after the shortening anyway.


After shortening the axles, the ends are filed clean with a micro file and blued. The filing creates a small burr, which usually makes it no longer necessary to glue the axles.
The last picture shows the finished yardarms of the fore yard, main topsail yard and mizzen yard.

 
It then continues with the stunsail boom irons. There are still a few open points to be clarified, as always... 😊
Sequel follows …

Mark, I agree. It’s long befuddled me why kit makers almost completely ignore river craft. A towboat or steamboat isn’t any more obscure than some of the centuries-old sailing vessels that get churned out. Canoeing on the Missouri River last year, we passed a rare tow and it was cool to see it up close and experience just how powerful those engines are; the effects of its wake lasted a long way downriver as they reverberated from bank to bank. Anyway, rambling way to cheer on this choice of model by someone who will do it justice.

When I grow up, I hope to be only half as skilled as you are.  Your work is amazing.

Beautiful work and almost there Mike!
Great to have a such a beautiful build as yours with clear explanations to follow!
Frank.

Hey Rusty, want to join me in building a model of the Brig Eagle from 1814? I can e-mail you some designs that were sent to me although I have made some modifications after doing my own research about her.

Small Saturday update, one more row to go on both sides before the first band of planking is finished. I think I'm starting to get the hang of it.
Frank.

I have that same Dremel Scroll-saw. A good tool to have in this trade

I have that same Dremel Scroll-saw. A good tool to have in this trade

A day spent template ing and cutting framing pieces.....
I have made up half of F30A when I realised that F31A was the aft can't frame....  
I am leaving the frames a little oversized (not cut nor faired to the line) so I have wiggle room for fairing.
I have ordered up timber and threaded rods to make up the reference line board to support the frames as I proceed forward.   Should pick up the bits tomorrow and spend the day cutting out the support board, lining it up on the building board then drill the support holes.  Getting the plan on the reference board aligned with the building board will be undertaken before drilling the supports.  More on that tomorrow.

A little  more  progress, lower counter planked,limber strakes installed and orlop deck clamps,I made up the riders and they really  helped with getting things lined up and the deck clamps at the right height. 

 

Here are a couple of shots of the railing around the companionway.  I tried to do this exactly as described in chapter 7.  Turning the stanchions was very easy using a Dremel tool and a small file. I glued it up using PVA.  I expected it to be very fragile, but it’s surprising strong.  I pinned it using 24 gauge steel wire. I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.

I've started on the head gratings. A few of these battens are quite small, yet none of them managed to fly off into nowhere land. All of the joints needed a bit of wood filler before painting. I added the first coat of black paint of which more are sure to come.
 

Mike

More grating work completed this week. As you can see I have not spent a lot of time on paint work. It's just too easy for things to get scratched while working in this area. I lowered the notched batten at the hull around 3/64" since the angle appeared just a bit too steep.

Mike

Interesting project. Will you be making her a Brig or a Schooner?

Wow that looks so good.  I am loving what you did with this model.  Well done.

Began cutting out the gunports,not going  to  put  in the sills until  later,stained the framing of the hull,then bolted and stained the wales.

Speedy healing to you, Brian. Hear those braces are no fun to wear. I see a number of people come through wearing these during ski season at the airport I work at, but those are usually on legs and not arms.  We will all practice our patience with you while you mend up which is more important no matter how much wanting to make new saw dust. Being healthy and whole is very important. 

Speedy healing to you, Brian. Hear those braces are no fun to wear. I see a number of people come through wearing these during ski season at the airport I work at, but those are usually on legs and not arms.  We will all practice our patience with you while you mend up which is more important no matter how much wanting to make new saw dust. Being healthy and whole is very important. 

Johann,  your work is a thing of beauty and a level of precision that’s truly an inspiration! Thanks for sharing. 
 
Don

Congrats on finishing this beautiful model,  first-rate all around in construction and meticulous research.  Happy holidays to you and your family.  This blog was a lot of fun to follow. 

Speedy healing to you, Brian. Hear those braces are no fun to wear. I see a number of people come through wearing these during ski season at the airport I work at, but those are usually on legs and not arms.  We will all practice our patience with you while you mend up which is more important no matter how much wanting to make new saw dust. Being healthy and whole is very important. 

Speedy healing to you, Brian. Hear those braces are no fun to wear. I see a number of people come through wearing these during ski season at the airport I work at, but those are usually on legs and not arms.  We will all practice our patience with you while you mend up which is more important no matter how much wanting to make new saw dust. Being healthy and whole is very important. 

Speedy healing to you, Brian. Hear those braces are no fun to wear. I see a number of people come through wearing these during ski season at the airport I work at, but those are usually on legs and not arms.  We will all practice our patience with you while you mend up which is more important no matter how much wanting to make new saw dust. Being healthy and whole is very important. 

Speedy healing to you, Brian. Hear those braces are no fun to wear. I see a number of people come through wearing these during ski season at the airport I work at, but those are usually on legs and not arms.  We will all practice our patience with you while you mend up which is more important no matter how much wanting to make new saw dust. Being healthy and whole is very important. 

Cool! I love how modern technology seamlessly compliments such an old way of building things. Looks great. Looking forward to seeing the resin cast. Is the reason for the resin cast to use a different colour resin? Is the quality any different from the 3D resin print?
 
Cheers,
 
Todd