Landrotten Highlander

Glenn, by the time you're done, we're all going to have exhausted our vocabulary and be reduced to grunting and throwing bananas in an approving manner.

Middle part of the second deck
 
Making gratings is just like working metal, it is almost faster to do than the set-up. The idea is to have a guide located at the same distance of 1 space  (the  thicknes of the wood). To get the correct thickness, 2 blades  are stacked and 1 pair of wise grip  is needed to unscrew the nut  by blocking the shaft.  A small curve is sanded in the gratings.
 
Most of the works recently done is still unglued. The drawings for the middle of the second deck are very inconsistent and incomplete so a lot of modifications are done  trying to think how the builders would have done it. Playing this ropleplay is very formative.

It is time to make some of the decorative rails.  Suggested patterns for the rail profiles are given in TFFM.  I use thin dental cutting discs which are 0.009" in thickness.  They are inexpensive and readily available on EBay.  Of course, they are brittle so eye protection is a must.  I am lucky to have an old Emesco dental engine which gives me slow variable speed without any play in the handpiece.  I cut the profiles into the sharp end of a regular single edge razor blade.  On this razor blade I have four different profiles and one oops.  I have also used Exacto blades for this.  Stock which is slightly oversized is used for the moldings.  This prevents the cutter from moving too much side-to-side during the scraping process.  
 

 

 
The tuck molding is located at the junction of the hull planking and the lower counter.  This molding has an undercut on its back surface to compensate for the curve of the hull.  The profile was carried over to the outer edge of the molding.  The discoloration in the wood of the counter is bleed through from applying finish internally and (hopefully) will not be seen when the exterior finish is applied.
 

 

 
The waist rail is located just below the frieze.  I will add the extreme fore and aft pieces after the rails and quarter badge have been installed.
 

 

 

Saturday 02 April 2016
 
Drilled the main keel scarph joint bolt holes and the false keel nail holes.
I used 30 lb test black monofilament fishing line (0.0235 inch [0.06 cm] diameter = 1.5 inch diameter - to scale) for both as explained below.
 
The contract calls for 8 bolts at 1-1/4 inch diameter for each keel scarph joint so my holes are paired up, 2 deep by 4 across, reasonably spaced.
It also mentions nails and staples for the false keel but does not give a size.
 
Searching on the interweb I found "An Introductory Outline of the Practise of Ship Building" by John Fincham dated 1821, page 254: the false keel is fastened to the main keel with short bolts or nails about four feet apart, on alternate edges, and staples driven into the side, and let flush, called keel staples, about 2 feet 4 inches apart.
 
So I spaced the nails 4 feet apart and staggered... assuming for scale they are about the same size.
 
I roughed up the line with sand paper so the glue would grip it, applied glue to the line and inserted it through the holes in the main keel.  Cut off the length with scissors then pushed it flush on one side.  After it was allowed some time to dry I trimmed it flush on the other side with a scalpel.... cutting away from myself I might add.
 
I repeated this for the false keel.
 
I am now going to layout the staple pattern.  I have some 0.5mm (0.02 inch) diameter copper wire to be used for this as these are staples and should have 90° bent barbed ends to be driven into the main and false keel.  I cannot bend the fishing line so it cannot be used for this purpose.  The copper staples will need to be blackened and I pre-purchased a bottle of LOS (Liver of Sulphur) rocks for the blackening process.
 
I have never done this before and have read up to prepare.  I was hoping to do this this weekend, outside due to the expected sulphur smell, but the temperature is dropping, snow was falling and we may be getting one last blow through with 15 cm (6 inches) and freezing rain predicted.  I will likely just get everything in readiness until I can do it outdoors and get the full experience before I subject my darling wife to a scent only my brother makes claim to.
 
A few photos of the bolting and nailing process...

Small update in the overall scheme of things.
 
The new rudder is ready for the metal work and some additional holes.  For example the two tiller holes are drilled but need squaring up with some file work and a couple of small holes for the eyebolts/ringbolts need drilling   All things considered and compared to the elder brother rudder, I'm happy with this.  There is one minor defect that will be hidden by the rudder coat.  And no, i"m not going to forget this bit.....
 
The opening for the pintles is shaped now like the French ones and not like the English properly. I also used boxwood from three different sheets/scraps in order to have some variation between the three slabs of wood.
 
Edit:  Actually... I'm wrong.  Both the English and the French did that same way.  The square openings are the way many kits do them.   I have much to unlearn... as well as learn.
 
For the metal work, I'm going with smaller diameter pintles and cudgoens than on the first version. the irons (straps), I'll make from the same material as before.   Also, I'm considering right now eliminating the bolts holding the irons to the rudder and hull because even though the I'm using are the tiniest I can find, as this scale they are still too large.  i believe if my measurements and eyes are to be believed they work out to having the heads 3" in diameter and standing proud at out 1.5".
 
I'll be using epoxy for securing the metal to the wood, although I need to test first and make sure that it will hold.
 
 
 
 

The sheer excellence of your woodwork and metal work makes this one of the most enjoyable logs on MSW. It looks like this could be a working model with the proper engine.

I finally completed the paddle wheels to the point I can start tying the drive train to the engine.  This week I was able to get most of the pittman/crosshead assembly done.  Just the feedwater pump and reach rods to finish before moving onto the boilers.
 
 
U-joints for the reach rods.

 

 
Crosshead slides.

 
Testing the fit of the crosshead and end of the pittman.

 

 

 
Pittman ends freshly milled.

 
 
Straps soldered to pittman ends.

 
Finished pittman strap with bearing, wedge and keys before blackening.

 

 
 
After blackening with bolts added.

 
Flywheel end of pittman.

 
Crosshead end of pittman.

 

 

 

Horsehair filled...or straw. 
 
Finally have solved the gilding issue. After some experimentation I am using Golden artist color brand acrylic tube paint. It is called Iridescent Gold (fine). The particles are much finer than in other brands I've tried. Photographing this is difficult, but the photos give some idea of the result. Keen eyes will notice I've repainted the blue strake a dark green-black, referred to as merde d'oie. (If you don't know French, look this up!)

This is my concept of the capstan as it might have appeared. It is based somewhat on the capstan of the Wasa. The rocker pawl is a not unreasonable device for the period. The capstan will be used to assist raising the yard.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
this painting by Botticelli shows the capstan eccentrically placed in the waist

 
 
 
Dick

Some progress while I wait for various 'gilding' materials to arrive. The coach benches are made and installed. For the moment the forward and aft coach bulkheads are temporarily slotted into position and still removable.
 
The plan of the coach indicates a locker lid aft. The benches were cushioned for the benefit of the Lord Commissioners' backsides, so these are next. I'll model them based on the ones seen in Prince Frederick's barge

Just in case - Rub n' buff has several shades of gold. 
If you are afraid that gold will prevent seeing fine details, bitumen
patina liquid can be used to bring it up.
Here is an example of it used (not on gold though)

Thanks for the tips and support, everyone. It is much appreciated. I will be experimenting with different 'gilt' finishes over the next few days.
 
The first photograph shows the ends finished in gold paint. This was unacceptable, as previously mentioned.
 
The second picture shows the inner side of one end piece and the other stripped of finish. There is a channel running across the lights between the layers which will enable me to slide the frames for the lights and glazing in after I finish the outer sides.
 
The third photograph shows the ends of the coach temporarily in place. After the seating is in place the ends will be permanently installed and the sides constructed to a sliding fit.
 
Next be to constructed will be the seating inside the coach.

April 2016
 
Fig-17 - FMJ with Setting plate in place, complete with 2 half frames of angle  brass set in the fingers.  The top assembly is for setting the deck beams in place, to be covered that later.
 
Fig-18 - Thin brass sheet cut and shaped for the ‘Floor’s, together with steel patterns.  At full size, the Floors were cut out of sheet iron with straight edges, then bent to match the particular frames.  I first made a pair of gauge plate Floor shapes  - patterns - for the widest frame, and used the 3 drain holes to locate with pins, a dozen roughed out brass plates between them.  Then machined the brass to match the patterns.  I used ‘licence’ here to ease assembly, first by including a small pip at the bottom of each Floor plate, and secondly by providing a small slot to assist in locating the Keelson, Side Keelson, & Bilge Keelsons .  When finished none of these are visible.
 
Fig-19 - The RHM being used to proved the Floor with rivet heads, the top row on one side for the reverse frame, the bottom row on the other side for the actual frame angles.
 
Fig-20 - FMJ with a frame master pattern, both angled brass frames in place together with the Floor,  bent to match the frames.  After the Floor is provided with it’s rivet heads, it is heated and annealed to soften it for bending.
 
Some words on ‘Licence’ - Licence is when you deviate from the original - Ones hears it said that this is an exact replica or the original - in truth one uses ‘Licence’ to create the complete replica, as on a scale of less than a quarter, the very thickness of the materials cannot be scaled.  For me I start on the premise that what I create is my artistic representation of the original.  I try where possible to follow the practices that produced the original, but in the end if it looks right then, for me, it is right.  However I will note from time to time, where gross licence has been used so solve a particular problem - the biggest of course being that the assembly is not held together by rivets, but by soft solder.  However if there is an art in this at all, it is to always conceal the licence used, so that the eye is convinced it is looking at what the mind thinks it should be.

I am sure I read somewhere here on MSW about someone using some type of artists 'wipe-on' gold on a figure to great effect.
Might have been Janos on one of his figureheads?  need to look through the many build logs I follow to find it again
 
 
Found it again
 
This is a link to the blog:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/501-carved-figure-heads-and-decorations/page-12
 
The guilding part starts at post 222, and the final solution is given on post 254 on page 13.

I am sure I read somewhere here on MSW about someone using some type of artists 'wipe-on' gold on a figure to great effect.
Might have been Janos on one of his figureheads?  need to look through the many build logs I follow to find it again
 
 
Found it again
 
This is a link to the blog:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/501-carved-figure-heads-and-decorations/page-12
 
The guilding part starts at post 222, and the final solution is given on post 254 on page 13.

I am sure I read somewhere here on MSW about someone using some type of artists 'wipe-on' gold on a figure to great effect.
Might have been Janos on one of his figureheads?  need to look through the many build logs I follow to find it again
 
 
Found it again
 
This is a link to the blog:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/501-carved-figure-heads-and-decorations/page-12
 
The guilding part starts at post 222, and the final solution is given on post 254 on page 13.

Ya he colocado los obenques.

I am sure I read somewhere here on MSW about someone using some type of artists 'wipe-on' gold on a figure to great effect.
Might have been Janos on one of his figureheads?  need to look through the many build logs I follow to find it again
 
 
Found it again
 
This is a link to the blog:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/501-carved-figure-heads-and-decorations/page-12
 
The guilding part starts at post 222, and the final solution is given on post 254 on page 13.

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

He has broken one of the sticks in a domestic accident.
I will change the entire rigging

Thanks for the likes, the comments, and the ideas.
 
Carl, I think you might be onto something. I never thought about coming in from the top.  I'll take another look this week and see.  
 
Pat, I seem to recall that build also... too many years ago,.. <sigh>  Oh yes, I'm logging the lessons.
 
 
Here's the rudder in it's not quite or maybe it is, final form.  (Rudder coat notwithstanding).  I've added the strop and the chains.   Now that's back in it's jig, I'm going to attend to several things...  the rudder coat install from the top, the carvings <takes a deep breath>, the quarter galleries, and a bit if finishing up the sanding on the inside of the hull.
 
And the pictures.  I'm pretty happy with it even with some issues that the macro brings up..  
 

 

 

Hello,
Tom,Ed and Druxey,
many thanks for the nice comments,
and to all others for the Likes.

The cutter are nearing completion.
Meanwhile, the backboards were made and fitted.

It still lacks rudder.
Soon I will start with the last boat for the French corvette, the gig.

The binnacle compasses:
 

 

 

 

 

Mike Y,  thank you for your kind words.  I enjoy writing this log and glad you and others enjoy it.
 
This week, I have made steady, but slow progress on the Naiad.  I am about 90 hours into the build and still get in about an hour a day.  Its mostly in 20 minute blocks that I get to work or after the kids go down, so I am either distracted or tired.  But thats what it is and if I want to build, then I need to accept it.
 
Below are photos through frame s.  You will note that some of the cant frames now require two chocks each.  You will also note that the top timber is no longer the reference point for setting up the frames.  The maximum height  of breadth is used to do the intial placement of the frames at this point.  I simply fair the outside aft edge of the frame to the maximum height of breadth and line it up with the upright jig.  Once the glue has set, I use the frame template to make sure I am on track.
 
 
 
Spacers are added after the frame has set.  Using a triangle, I make sure the frame is perpendicular to the keel and aligned with the base drawing. 
 
The photo makes the frames look skewed on the port side, but they are actually in balance.  You will also note that there is a lot of wood still left between the upper and lower heights of breadth.  This will be faired after I install the gun port sills.  I dont want to thin them too much prior to this.  I will simply fair to the moulded dimension of the sills at that time.  I am tempted to cut the gun ports in now, but Ed advises against that.  I think it has a lot to do with alignment at the top timbers.  So, I will wait...
 
I purchased a set of mini cabinet scrapers that I use to fair the inside.  Again, everything is rough at this point.  As we all know, once you take it off, you cant put it back...  I expect to be done with the bow cant frames by the end of the week and will begin the stern transom and cant frames after that.  I have developed a pretty good rythm with building frames and use a just-in-time approach as Ed describes in his book, Naiad.  I find that building each frame one at a time is not the most efficient way to go, but it does lend to better quality for me and also allows me to keep the pieces all together. 
 
More next week.  Thanks for reading. Gary

For the coachwork there are numerous repetitive ornamental mouldings. The first of these to produce is a five-reeded column. This is ⅛" wide, so it was tricky to work. I used a micro-milling cutter (Proxxon) on my mill using an x-y table to incrementally cut reeds into the stock. Also required were columnar capitals. Again, two different micro-milling cutters were used. One was a flat-bottomed cutter, the other a very small ball cutter. These produced a fair imitation of the design. 
 
The millwork is gradually being built up on the pattern piece. The pattern will be integrated into the coach, as the assembly will be painted when completed. The outer corners still need to be bevelled. Each column consists of three pieces. The reeds are stopped; that is to say, they do not extend the whole length of the column. Plain pieces of stock are grafted on the top and bottom to produce the effect of stopped reeding. In addition, there are small fielded panels in the column bases. These were cut in using a scalpel and a micro chisel. The panels in the doors and on either side were added using stock a scale ⅜" thick.