Landrotten Highlander

Thank you for your likes and comments,
and here the reason why I started to make the hinges. I would have all port lids ready for painting when I at least paint the hull. But there are those who get the anchor lining. But now they are also ready.
 

 

 

The rail onthe top of the R Cabin, the Gallery 's chimney is there and the fore castle racks.

Metal black was used in order to give to the wooden chimney (but well sanded) the impression is metallic. There is also the anchor rope to be seen.

Hello, 
I would like to thank you for your attention and interest. 
The strops with collars for the tye blocks of the fore topmast are finished.

 
 
The tye blocks are hung in and the pendants are put on.

Hello,
I'm busy with building the hinges for the port lids. For that I chiseled with an engraver a die out of a piece of steel and hardened it.
 

 
The hinges itself I build from copper wire, hammered slightly flat, bent one end back and soldered it with tin
 

 
Then I hammered it into the mould
 

 
filed the surface at the back flat
 

 
and at the disk sander I cut the sidelines flat
 

 
The drilling I made by eye, 0,65 mm Ø
 

 
And with that I rounded the back of the hinge
 

 

 

 
And that is it, also with a prototype of an hinge pin. The pin is made from 0,6 mm brass wire.
 

 
So, I think that I'm busy with them the next days. Today I build 10 hinges within 1,5 hours and I need 84 of them. 😟

The decking is in place and I have filthied it up a treat. I think it looks like a working boat now. Little to do now but rig it.
 

 

 

 
Cheerio
Dick

Hello,
at the moment I make the heavy tye blocks with real sheaves. The single blocks are 7.9 mm long.
They have double stropps and are lashed with two eyes on one collar. 

 

 

 

Thank you Tony 
 
The first part of the railing is finished, the system of sliding the hollow posts on the pins works..
 

 

 

 

 
Reinforced with long pins..
 

 

 

 
Further work, installation of the top mirror plate..
 

 

Continuation. 
 

 

 

 
Pawel 

I've been working on the second layer of planking, so much nicer than the wood provided in the kit. I've planked the quarter deck but am working up the enthusiasm to do the main deck because it's going to be challenging to fit the margin boards and joggle the deck planks in but I'll have to get into it soon
 

# J square frames.
Reviewing Kevin Kenny’s video, using the 5 min. Epoxy for its greater strength, non-adhesive clear paper (greaseproof) to reduce mess and pining the parts to the board through the wood, for fixation while assembling and drying. 
I’ve had issues with movement and breakages despite trying to ensure a good fit at the joints.
Can I blame the weather ?- from winter to spring and back again every few days-10c+rain then 25c+.
#H and #J are “connected” so may assemble off keel first.
#J- no timberheads.
2nd futtock height 8.7mm
There are mortises on aft aspect of aft rib of the pair-for the sweep port sills.
The given measurements in TFFM (scale metric) -2mm thick sills forming a port of 4.24mm square.
My framing plans have blurred lines, but these ports look rectangular.
Until now have postponed making these mortises, having tried and failed on practice pieces.
To make this after attaching the frames looked even more difficult.
I milled the mortise calculating the height of the lower edge from the sheer plan-10.4mm from base. Although square, I think I can fake the “angle”  appearance later.
I don’t know if intentional, but the 5in horizontal line on frame plan is the same distance from the seat as my keel is high (0.95mm)
Therefore by putting the frame on its plan, it was easily marked.
# H
Another bend pair - spacers separating the pair as before.
The fore aspect has the matching mortises for the sweep ports.
The aft aspect of same frame has a mortise for a port-starting at same height but allowing for sill of thickness of 2.65mm (marked by placing on #J frame plan)
The height of the port is 14.1mm with an upper mortise of 6.3mm.
Assembling these frames on the keel, the frames are too aft on the keel.
Revised my decision, and recut sills to form a sweep port width of 3.5mm (equivalent to 6.6in not the 8in)
The aft of #H is still 2mm aft of its line. Need to compensate,
The picture is pre-fairing and shows excessive “spare”
The bird is an Egyptian Goose and chicks seen on walk at local pond yesterday.
 

Hello and many thanks for your likes
 
Today I finished the anchor lining. Now are only the port lids left.
 

 

 

The first picture is a flat cross section symmetrical rudder on the ancient mediterranean pattern and the second is a foil cross-section assymmetrical rudder of the 13th century ( on my round ship)

 
 

 
Dick
 
 

Hi All... after a long time 😂

Finally I've managed to pull myself together and sit behind the desk to push some work ahead 🙃
For those who were waiting for or wondering if topic will be continued... I have some small updates 😉

Basically I'm trying to complete all deck fittings and some other little hull "accessories". 
 
Also I've completed channels with deadeyes and chains.
Chains... nothing fancy... just copper wire (0.6mm) and silver solder.
 

 

 

 

 
External ladder
 

 
 
Fore and main mast tops finally together 😂
 

 
 
And some beauty shot of whole model

 
 
Cheers!
See you soon!

Hello and many thanks you for warm words!
 
yes Greg, I paint the parts before gluing and use diluted acrylic paint, here is first coat:
 

 
At the port side is now only planksheer installed, timber heads just put in:
 

 

 

 
Regards
Alex

#L-fore square frame
Moving to the front of the ship, the FLOOR is now FORE and the aft has the chock.
This fore has a forward facing dog leg.
The gap between its companion is for a sill-thus 15.11mm.
Firstly, as for aft frames,plot 2nd futtock height on the sheer plan.#L=9.2mm.
This fore part also has the timberhead.
Lookin at my framing plan, it seems that the start of the dog leg is lower -as are the others not yet built.
The card pattern seemed OK but when I made the actual piece, there was a misalignment with the fore cants. Rechecking, these seemed to be 1 or 2 mm out.I think that when the spacers separated when fairing, I stuck them back as individuals to its neighbour without checking the whole run.
With a mdf profile, I unglued and re-stuck in the corrected position.
It is important to ensure that the angle of the cants remains at 90deg vertical while following the angle to the keel. Some of mine needed improvement -I altered the thickness of some of the spacers as required.
The inner aspect of the #L was now slightly too narrow, so I remade it with more spare than usual.
Allowance for angle of cant means that the seat of #L is less than the 15.1mm distance of the sill .Used a sizing block.
 
#K frame
Referred to as a frame bend- separated by a number of spacers- as #13-above and below the joint lines. 
The fore of the pair has the timberhead.
The aft sits on a wider part of the keel and needs to be adapted as not shown on the plan. 
The “legs” astride the keel are shorter so for extra stability I put a slightly thicker (0.8mm) bamboo trunnel at this stage.
The futtock head height is 8.9mm as I measured it.
 

Errare humanum est. After checking Bellabarba drw again and more carefully, it showed I was wrong... the Royal Cabin has no acces to the staircaises (there are two, one on each side).  I WAS VERY WRONG! Maybe because it was convinient for me to be so.
 
The doors are a must on both constructions (even if they are too low 1.4 m), it is the only way down to the lower deck. So I have correct my mistake and done it by Bellabarba's book, not the way the kit shows it (two stairs going on the RC roof and no doors to the staircase) and ofcourse not my way... no doors "because the RC had acces to the staicases"!!!




 
 
 
 

 

Good morning
 
the work from last weekend
 

 

 

 

 
Regards
 
Alex

Happy New  Year to you all!
It's been a long time updating this post. 
Buying on painting the whole ship and the figures.
Thanks to you all, the whole ship is almost complete.

I think height adjustment is the vertical screw though the ebony piece. The horizontal screw holds it firmly in position.
 
I now see the the answer has already been provided.  Should read all replies before acting - ah wel, learn from ones mistakes is part of life

First layer of planking completed but the material provided for the second layer was so bad I threw it out and am waiting for better stock to arrive. Meanwhile I've painted the bulwalks red, and made the guns so I could make sure the gun ports were correctly placed
 

I think height adjustment is the vertical screw though the ebony piece. The horizontal screw holds it firmly in position.
 
I now see the the answer has already been provided.  Should read all replies before acting - ah wel, learn from ones mistakes is part of life

I work on the bent parts of the stern railing..
 

 

 

 

 

 

Chain plates on both sides. Hard monotony@ But still enjoyable to see the whole standing in place waitting the rigging process to begin.
 
The ladder was also very challenging. The kit shows two ladders, right and left of the royal cabin, but I followed Bellabarba's book, to build only the left ladder. On the right side Bellabarba is showing a closed compartment, which actualy inside of it is the staircase to the lower deck. Both constructions have a side door to enter the staircase, which I havent done, because I believe there were of no use because the staircase is communicating directly with the R.Cabin. The crew that needed to go to the lower deck could do that through the hinter stairs, without passing through the RCabin.Also the dimensions of both construction appear to be very low (1.4 meters) and narrow for the existence of a door.

Thanks, druxey. Here is a closer look at the marking jig.
 
The ebony pointer slides up between the two side pieces of the shell, and has a screw on the bottom for fine adjustment. And then a screw at the right tightens it down in place. The top screw tightens the entire sliding mechanism against the bar.
 
The empty screw holes were drilled when I used this for the gun deck. They got in the way when I had to shorten the throw for the upper deck. Should have thought ahead way back then....
 
Mark
 


 

druxey, you are right, those parallel pliers are a god-send. Flattens things out without marring the soft copper.
And nice capsquares. The giveaway of built up construction is that the join between the flat and the curve comes to a sharp 90 degree corner. Even the best bending still leaves a small radius at this intersection.
 
I have been busy for the last week constructing all of the metal for the gun deck. Easy with jigs, but many, many pieces to make over and over.
 
I learned from YouTube videos how to make the rings, which are called jump rings in the jewelry world. Clamp a drill bit of the right internal diameter for the ring into a vise. Then tightly wrap copper wire of the correct diameter around the drill bit. Remove from drill bit. Use sharp angle cutters to cut a square end at the beginning of the coil, then reverse the cutter to cut another square end facing the first. A perfect ring drops off the coil. Cut a new square end, reverse the cutters and cut the opposite end square. Repeat.
 

 
I used two parallel jaw pliers opposing each other to open up the ring enough to drop in an eyebolt, then close up the ring. A trick I learned online was to twist the pliers back and forth a few times, listening for a clicking sound as the two ends of the ring pass by each other. This helps form a ring without a gap.

 
 
And then there were all of the other metal pieces for the gun carriages, the ends of the bolts, and the wedges for retaining the trucks to the axles.


 
And slowly but surely the metal parts accumulated:
 

 
I blackened in batches, to keep different types separate (left and right cap squares, rings for carriages vs. rings for deck vs. rings for quickwork).
Following Greg's good advise (above), I cleaned in pickle, then neutralized in baking soda and water, then I used 99% isopropyl alcohol). A final soak in diluted Jax blackening for copper.
 

 
The pieces were so tiny I used  the orange filter to put into the pickle and baking soda. But then I had to dump them individually into the alcohol and JAX. It was pretty tedious picking them all up individually with tweezers at this point.
 

 
The resulting blackened pieces are really quite wonderful in color and luster:
 

 
While waiting for some of these processes, I started marking out the upper deck height, in anticipation of finally moving on to the next deck in a few weeks. I dug out an old jig I used to mark the height of the gun deck. It has a bar between opposite gun ports, and a device that slides up to the side at the correct distance down from the port. I then run a pencil over the ebony pointer, to get the mark on the side at the correct height. Without this jig, it would be very difficult to measure down accurately with so much tumblehome. This ensures that the final beam height will be exactly parallel to the gun ports.
The jig allows the black pointer to slide up and down and lock at the correct height within the larger shell of the device.
 
 

 
Best wishes,
 
Mark