Landrotten Highlander

Abacus is decorated and the stern looks colourfull. The curtains on the cabin's windows took some imagination and I think arent bad.

Thank you very much Hubacs Historian, I am very pleased with the praise from a person with a sense for detail.
 
I created an upper mirror..
 

 

 


 

 

 

 
 
I draw the mooring places of the rigging in a low-quality plan. I used a plan from Ab Hoving's Zeehaen fluite..
 

 

The mast did not seem to have sufficient lateral support in the absence of mast partners. So I saw a solution to this as used in certain arab dhows and have incorporated it. It also simplifies to process of stepping and unstepping the mast.
 

 

 

 
here is the lower halyard block. I have decided to avoid sheaved pulleys.
 

 
Dick

Hello,
 
the work go on, the planksheer and timber heads on the Forecastle have been completed. I also made the catblocks , but before I can glue them on, I have to mount the upper head rails. That's how I started building the Head.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The scarf joint of upper knee is glued directly on model for right alignment
 

 
Some pieces in work
 

 

 
The upper knee on photo was brocken, I have rewroked them.
 
Regards
 
Alex

Soviet Catalina sighting a lifeboat from 'Marina Raskova' and two minesweepers, sunk in the Kara Sea with heavy losses. w/c 16” X 11”

I got one for plastic models.  Comes with different sized heads as well as different grades of emery paper.  Am very pleased with it - very easy to use and adjust sanding speed, little of the vibation goes into the hands/wrists (unlike some other tools I have used in the past). Not sure how effective it would be for wood - depends on the emery paper used, I guess.
 

I got one for plastic models.  Comes with different sized heads as well as different grades of emery paper.  Am very pleased with it - very easy to use and adjust sanding speed, little of the vibation goes into the hands/wrists (unlike some other tools I have used in the past). Not sure how effective it would be for wood - depends on the emery paper used, I guess.
 

I got one for plastic models.  Comes with different sized heads as well as different grades of emery paper.  Am very pleased with it - very easy to use and adjust sanding speed, little of the vibation goes into the hands/wrists (unlike some other tools I have used in the past). Not sure how effective it would be for wood - depends on the emery paper used, I guess.
 

I got one for plastic models.  Comes with different sized heads as well as different grades of emery paper.  Am very pleased with it - very easy to use and adjust sanding speed, little of the vibation goes into the hands/wrists (unlike some other tools I have used in the past). Not sure how effective it would be for wood - depends on the emery paper used, I guess.
 

Hello,
 
 

Thank you guys for all likes and comments.
I understand that for some people, the use of CNC machines is a somewhat controversial topic. On the other hand, I remember how I started modeling about 40 years ago with a hand saw and a set of files. Today, no one dares to use various electrical devices that make it easier for us modelers to work. From this point of view, the CNC machine is just another evolutionary step.
To garyshipwright: I am using VCarve Desktop.
I am starting work on main capstan parts - some pictures from production.

Thank you for your likes and comments,
and here the reason why I started to make the hinges. I would have all port lids ready for painting when I at least paint the hull. But there are those who get the anchor lining. But now they are also ready.
 

 

 

The rail onthe top of the R Cabin, the Gallery 's chimney is there and the fore castle racks.

Metal black was used in order to give to the wooden chimney (but well sanded) the impression is metallic. There is also the anchor rope to be seen.

Hello, 
I would like to thank you for your attention and interest. 
The strops with collars for the tye blocks of the fore topmast are finished.

 
 
The tye blocks are hung in and the pendants are put on.

Hello,
I'm busy with building the hinges for the port lids. For that I chiseled with an engraver a die out of a piece of steel and hardened it.
 

 
The hinges itself I build from copper wire, hammered slightly flat, bent one end back and soldered it with tin
 

 
Then I hammered it into the mould
 

 
filed the surface at the back flat
 

 
and at the disk sander I cut the sidelines flat
 

 
The drilling I made by eye, 0,65 mm Ø
 

 
And with that I rounded the back of the hinge
 

 

 

 
And that is it, also with a prototype of an hinge pin. The pin is made from 0,6 mm brass wire.
 

 
So, I think that I'm busy with them the next days. Today I build 10 hinges within 1,5 hours and I need 84 of them. 😟

The decking is in place and I have filthied it up a treat. I think it looks like a working boat now. Little to do now but rig it.
 

 

 

 
Cheerio
Dick

Hello,
at the moment I make the heavy tye blocks with real sheaves. The single blocks are 7.9 mm long.
They have double stropps and are lashed with two eyes on one collar. 

 

 

 

Thank you Tony 
 
The first part of the railing is finished, the system of sliding the hollow posts on the pins works..
 

 

 

 

 
Reinforced with long pins..
 

 

 

 
Further work, installation of the top mirror plate..
 

 

Continuation. 
 

 

 

 
Pawel 

I've been working on the second layer of planking, so much nicer than the wood provided in the kit. I've planked the quarter deck but am working up the enthusiasm to do the main deck because it's going to be challenging to fit the margin boards and joggle the deck planks in but I'll have to get into it soon
 

# J square frames.
Reviewing Kevin Kenny’s video, using the 5 min. Epoxy for its greater strength, non-adhesive clear paper (greaseproof) to reduce mess and pining the parts to the board through the wood, for fixation while assembling and drying. 
I’ve had issues with movement and breakages despite trying to ensure a good fit at the joints.
Can I blame the weather ?- from winter to spring and back again every few days-10c+rain then 25c+.
#H and #J are “connected” so may assemble off keel first.
#J- no timberheads.
2nd futtock height 8.7mm
There are mortises on aft aspect of aft rib of the pair-for the sweep port sills.
The given measurements in TFFM (scale metric) -2mm thick sills forming a port of 4.24mm square.
My framing plans have blurred lines, but these ports look rectangular.
Until now have postponed making these mortises, having tried and failed on practice pieces.
To make this after attaching the frames looked even more difficult.
I milled the mortise calculating the height of the lower edge from the sheer plan-10.4mm from base. Although square, I think I can fake the “angle”  appearance later.
I don’t know if intentional, but the 5in horizontal line on frame plan is the same distance from the seat as my keel is high (0.95mm)
Therefore by putting the frame on its plan, it was easily marked.
# H
Another bend pair - spacers separating the pair as before.
The fore aspect has the matching mortises for the sweep ports.
The aft aspect of same frame has a mortise for a port-starting at same height but allowing for sill of thickness of 2.65mm (marked by placing on #J frame plan)
The height of the port is 14.1mm with an upper mortise of 6.3mm.
Assembling these frames on the keel, the frames are too aft on the keel.
Revised my decision, and recut sills to form a sweep port width of 3.5mm (equivalent to 6.6in not the 8in)
The aft of #H is still 2mm aft of its line. Need to compensate,
The picture is pre-fairing and shows excessive “spare”
The bird is an Egyptian Goose and chicks seen on walk at local pond yesterday.
 

Hello and many thanks for your likes
 
Today I finished the anchor lining. Now are only the port lids left.
 

 

 

The first picture is a flat cross section symmetrical rudder on the ancient mediterranean pattern and the second is a foil cross-section assymmetrical rudder of the 13th century ( on my round ship)

 
 

 
Dick
 
 

Hi All... after a long time 😂

Finally I've managed to pull myself together and sit behind the desk to push some work ahead 🙃
For those who were waiting for or wondering if topic will be continued... I have some small updates 😉

Basically I'm trying to complete all deck fittings and some other little hull "accessories". 
 
Also I've completed channels with deadeyes and chains.
Chains... nothing fancy... just copper wire (0.6mm) and silver solder.
 

 

 

 

 
External ladder
 

 
 
Fore and main mast tops finally together 😂
 

 
 
And some beauty shot of whole model

 
 
Cheers!
See you soon!

Hello and many thanks you for warm words!
 
yes Greg, I paint the parts before gluing and use diluted acrylic paint, here is first coat:
 

 
At the port side is now only planksheer installed, timber heads just put in:
 

 

 

 
Regards
Alex