Landrotten Highlander

The fore deck is planked, it was much easier to joggle the planks on this deck due to ease of access. I've also done the kings cabin with two of my favorite pics of my little girl. I milled some flat brass bar into the picture frames and added a little furniture just for the heck of it. Now with the cabin top on you can't really see much in there but I know it's there.
 

To G. Delacroix - thanks for the info, I made the new one items with no wedges
To garyshipwright - I am using "10 Degree 0.1mm Tip Carbide CNC Bits Flat Bottom Milling Cutter V Shape" (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/852725456.html) for most of CNC 3D carvings. Question about tutorial - I am so sorry, making a video tutorial would be too time consuming and my knowledge of English is minimal.
I continue with the assembly of the capstans.
 

I continue to install the railing posts. Some parts are drilled at an angle by tilting the boat with a stand ..
 

 

 

 

 

 
And I created a sailor figure to measure the equipment..
 

 

 

 

 

Thank you druxey!
 
Dowmer, I can't use scrapers due to curvature and tapering. here are tools I have used for moulds and nearly completted second upper rail
 

 
Regards
Alex

Here is the first anchor. Based on the anchor found in the 7th century YassiAda wreck

 
and after blackening
 

Cheers
Dick

The waist deck has been planked. I'm happy to get that behind me because joggling the planks into the margin boards is always fiddly.
 
All that's left to do there is to scrape it with a sharp chisel.
 

I am getting vertigo just looking at the first picture...

Thank you for your comments.
 
All the following photos are from the little action camera:

Hi all,
 
the work at the head go on, here the new upper knee, held in place with three glue spots, and upper head rail. The scupper from manger was wrong placed. Is removed und will be new placed abaft the lower knee.
 

 

 
lower knee in process and all parts temporary placed:
 

 

 

 

 
Regards
 
Alex

Hi All,
 
Ropes situation is progressing.
I think at that point I have maybe 90% ropes done. 
For sure I will run out of some running rigging ropes... but missing ones I will do as required.
 
Next step is to add some tar and impregnation 😉
 
Below some photos.
 
Anchors cables
 

 
Main and fore mast stays
 

 
...and few with smaller "caliber" 😆
 

 

 
...and my chocolate box 🙃😂
 

 
Cheers,
Matt

Hi All,
 
Chris and Sam many thanks!!! You are very kind 

Ondras thank you. Your model looks great too. I'm following your build 😉
 
 
I have some small update

Masts are almost completed... just few little details missing... which probably nobody will never notice... but I have to do them otherwise my soul will wander forever in the limbo 😂
 

 
Caps were made using mill and for final touch just sand paper and files.
 

 
Also I've made imitation of iron fittings secured points for breeching and gun tackle.
Scuppers are also visible above wales.
 

 

 
At that point I'm working on ropes.
It's taking a lot of time... I'm on day 3 😆
...luckily I'm almost done with ropes... just few meters of 0,15mm, 0,2mm and 0,3mm missing.
 
For my model I've decided to use as a reference best source I could imagine. 
Ab Hoving and his publications about pinnaces. 
Amazing mine of knowledge 🤯 
 
So I've xero copy few pages from the book and recalculated whole rigging according to scale of my model... and I believe it's more or less accurate. Hopefully 😆
 

 
Having above numbers there was nothing else to do than start my ropewalk, which was made by one of my friend Roman also modeler form Poland.
Super solid. Great tool
 
For my ropes I'm using polyester threads no. 120 and 160. Also for smallest diameters no. 360.

For "smallest" rope I'm using 3x1 threads no. 360, which gave me 0,15mm rope and for the "biggest" rope (except anchor cables), which is Main Mast Stay 3x16 thread no. 120, gave me 1,65mm rope.
 

 

 

 
And just small "sample"


 
Cheers,
Matt

#G
Fore of pair -scarph joint-will be shortened to be under the port.
Aft-with toptimber-also shifted foreward and with motises for sill foreward and mortises for sweep ports aft.
Not worked on ship for a couple of days and when rechecking height of sills, some discrepancy between port and starboard is noted. Frames J and H tilted and reset
Further confusion. On my (not so clear) framing plan, there seems to be a variation in size of ports (by height) and the sweep ports do not measure as  square-3.5mmwide and 4.2 high.  
CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP AND CLARIFY THIS.

 

Hello,
it is always a great pleasure when you see that others show an interest in what you do.
Many thanks for that.
The tye blocks for the main mast top have also been completed in the meantime.
I hope that the pictures speak for themselves.
 


 

 

 

 

Abacus is decorated and the stern looks colourfull. The curtains on the cabin's windows took some imagination and I think arent bad.

Thank you very much Hubacs Historian, I am very pleased with the praise from a person with a sense for detail.
 
I created an upper mirror..
 

 

 


 

 

 

 
 
I draw the mooring places of the rigging in a low-quality plan. I used a plan from Ab Hoving's Zeehaen fluite..
 

 

The mast did not seem to have sufficient lateral support in the absence of mast partners. So I saw a solution to this as used in certain arab dhows and have incorporated it. It also simplifies to process of stepping and unstepping the mast.
 

 

 

 
here is the lower halyard block. I have decided to avoid sheaved pulleys.
 

 
Dick

Hello,
 
the work go on, the planksheer and timber heads on the Forecastle have been completed. I also made the catblocks , but before I can glue them on, I have to mount the upper head rails. That's how I started building the Head.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The scarf joint of upper knee is glued directly on model for right alignment
 

 
Some pieces in work
 

 

 
The upper knee on photo was brocken, I have rewroked them.
 
Regards
 
Alex

Soviet Catalina sighting a lifeboat from 'Marina Raskova' and two minesweepers, sunk in the Kara Sea with heavy losses. w/c 16” X 11”

I got one for plastic models.  Comes with different sized heads as well as different grades of emery paper.  Am very pleased with it - very easy to use and adjust sanding speed, little of the vibation goes into the hands/wrists (unlike some other tools I have used in the past). Not sure how effective it would be for wood - depends on the emery paper used, I guess.
 

I got one for plastic models.  Comes with different sized heads as well as different grades of emery paper.  Am very pleased with it - very easy to use and adjust sanding speed, little of the vibation goes into the hands/wrists (unlike some other tools I have used in the past). Not sure how effective it would be for wood - depends on the emery paper used, I guess.
 

I got one for plastic models.  Comes with different sized heads as well as different grades of emery paper.  Am very pleased with it - very easy to use and adjust sanding speed, little of the vibation goes into the hands/wrists (unlike some other tools I have used in the past). Not sure how effective it would be for wood - depends on the emery paper used, I guess.
 

I got one for plastic models.  Comes with different sized heads as well as different grades of emery paper.  Am very pleased with it - very easy to use and adjust sanding speed, little of the vibation goes into the hands/wrists (unlike some other tools I have used in the past). Not sure how effective it would be for wood - depends on the emery paper used, I guess.
 

Hello,
 
 

Thank you guys for all likes and comments.
I understand that for some people, the use of CNC machines is a somewhat controversial topic. On the other hand, I remember how I started modeling about 40 years ago with a hand saw and a set of files. Today, no one dares to use various electrical devices that make it easier for us modelers to work. From this point of view, the CNC machine is just another evolutionary step.
To garyshipwright: I am using VCarve Desktop.
I am starting work on main capstan parts - some pictures from production.