ca.shipwright

Oh yeah, on the friezes. Very classy.
 

Oh yeah, on the friezes. Very classy.
 

Ditto Sjors

7/1
On to Chapter 6. The honeymoon is over. This is as serious modeling as you can get- it’s just short of scratch building. I read it, read it again, and read it again, and, still I did things wrong. It sometimes seems like this is one big senior moment.
 
I installed the first partial anchor stock piece in the second row of anchor stock upside down and lost the sheer of the planks. I didn’t show up until much later. The optics of the sheer of the plank verses the straight run of the stripes gets very confusing to the eye. You really have to focus on one and when you get that in your head you can then look at the other and compare. I had to rip out a good portion of the stern planking to fix this. And, there is still some sag at the stern. I’m going to have to live with this.
 
The black stripe is 12mm in width and it carries all the way through. The boxwood is 9/16ths and also carries through all the way through. I consider this a moral victory (no pun intended). I got one thing correct. There appears to be a little too much sheer aft of the entry way. I don’t know why because the gallery drawing is spot on. I’ll live with this also. It looks like there is going to a lot of “live withs” on the starboard side. It’s only going to be important at the stem where the stripes and wales join and at the stern to make sure the stern galleries align properly.
 
I have another reason besides the one that Bob gave for working on one side the hull at a time. You learn from your mistakes. And, doing the second side after practicing on the first side will be a huge benefit. Of course, the first side goes against the wall. Keeping notes of the potential pitfalls will be a help when I turn around to the port side.
 
On the middle gun deck, between the 2nd and 3rd gun port from the stern, there is piece of black anchor stock that will be carved out and replaced with boxwood to get rid of the black hump.

 
I found that working at eye level really helps. That little box is perfect. I use an Ex-acto fine tooth saw the start the cuts for the gun port openings and then pair back to this cut from the middle with the work piece on the little box. I found that this eliminates breaking the part at the narrow place when you do this freehand. I place the work piece of the left edge (I'm left handed) with the mark up against the edge. I hold the piece close to the edge pressing down tightly. The box is up against the front of the bench turned so the saw is clear of the bench. I draw the saw DOWN to make the cut only as deep as the frame needs to be. Drawing down uses gravity to move the saw, while pushing up will break the piece.
 
One resolution is to improve my cutting of the filler pieces between the gun ports. I have modified my technique. Now, I cut all the pieces for the gap, gang them, then sand them to length using the Byrnes disc sander. This keeps them square, and, with a little care, just sneak up of the correct length. This gives a very nice straight line.


 

 

The rope walks are just as clean as the rest of the model. Great job.
 
Regards

7/1
On to Chapter 6. The honeymoon is over. This is as serious modeling as you can get- it’s just short of scratch building. I read it, read it again, and read it again, and, still I did things wrong. It sometimes seems like this is one big senior moment.
 
I installed the first partial anchor stock piece in the second row of anchor stock upside down and lost the sheer of the planks. I didn’t show up until much later. The optics of the sheer of the plank verses the straight run of the stripes gets very confusing to the eye. You really have to focus on one and when you get that in your head you can then look at the other and compare. I had to rip out a good portion of the stern planking to fix this. And, there is still some sag at the stern. I’m going to have to live with this.
 
The black stripe is 12mm in width and it carries all the way through. The boxwood is 9/16ths and also carries through all the way through. I consider this a moral victory (no pun intended). I got one thing correct. There appears to be a little too much sheer aft of the entry way. I don’t know why because the gallery drawing is spot on. I’ll live with this also. It looks like there is going to a lot of “live withs” on the starboard side. It’s only going to be important at the stem where the stripes and wales join and at the stern to make sure the stern galleries align properly.
 
I have another reason besides the one that Bob gave for working on one side the hull at a time. You learn from your mistakes. And, doing the second side after practicing on the first side will be a huge benefit. Of course, the first side goes against the wall. Keeping notes of the potential pitfalls will be a help when I turn around to the port side.
 
On the middle gun deck, between the 2nd and 3rd gun port from the stern, there is piece of black anchor stock that will be carved out and replaced with boxwood to get rid of the black hump.

 
I found that working at eye level really helps. That little box is perfect. I use an Ex-acto fine tooth saw the start the cuts for the gun port openings and then pair back to this cut from the middle with the work piece on the little box. I found that this eliminates breaking the part at the narrow place when you do this freehand. I place the work piece of the left edge (I'm left handed) with the mark up against the edge. I hold the piece close to the edge pressing down tightly. The box is up against the front of the bench turned so the saw is clear of the bench. I draw the saw DOWN to make the cut only as deep as the frame needs to be. Drawing down uses gravity to move the saw, while pushing up will break the piece.
 
One resolution is to improve my cutting of the filler pieces between the gun ports. I have modified my technique. Now, I cut all the pieces for the gap, gang them, then sand them to length using the Byrnes disc sander. This keeps them square, and, with a little care, just sneak up of the correct length. This gives a very nice straight line.


 

 

Dave,
I would have to say that the close up of the "stay fixed to the foot of the mast" is the most realistic photo I have ever seen. I can literally feel myself looking over the rail. The detail is amazing and the photography is superb.
 
I enjoy looking at your log and use it as the bar to reach on my Endeavour which is as likely to happen as the Big Dipper suddenly appears in the southern hemisphere and the Southern Cross appearing in the northern hemisphere.
 
Regards

Absolutely stunning. It is truly amazing what you can accomplish in a large scale model. I may have to look at this for a future build.
 
 
Regards

If you are going to copper, don't waste the time or energy with going for scale planks. Just grab a pile of bass wood which bends easily and apply it as fast as can. The coppering will take longer then planking at scale. Someone mentioned that it takes close to 4500 or so to get the job done. I see a padded cell in the future after or during coppering.
 
The final ruling-"Your ship, your rules."
 
Regards

Absolutely stunning. It is truly amazing what you can accomplish in a large scale model. I may have to look at this for a future build.
 
 
Regards

Absolutely stunning. It is truly amazing what you can accomplish in a large scale model. I may have to look at this for a future build.
 
 
Regards

Absolutely stunning. It is truly amazing what you can accomplish in a large scale model. I may have to look at this for a future build.
 
 
Regards

Jesse,
My condolences.
 
Michael

Jesse,
My condolences.
 
Michael

Neat is the word of the day. Well done
 
Regards

Neat is the word of the day. Well done
 
Regards

Jesse,
My condolences.
 
Michael

Jesse,
My condolences.
 
Michael

Jesse,
My condolences.
 
Michael

Very nicely done!

Jesse,
My condolences.
 
Michael

E J
Looking good so far, sand and sand again.
Take a look at my posts under STORY STICKs. This may give you some added help.
 
Regards

Always keep the hand holding the work or, if it is a vise, behind the tool. There is an optimum amount of pressure you can apply. If the cut doesn't work, change the cut. Do not add more force. The tool will slip and most likely wind up going through your hand. Always keep your tools razor sharp. The most dangerous tool is a dull one.
 
Regards

Continuing with the starboard planking. Started cutting the anchor stock pieces and got on a roll. I built the box in the first photo that raises the work piece and my hands to almost eye level. What a difference this makes with fatigue- almost none. Accuracy is much better also.
 
After completing the lower light section, I decided to put the entire line of anchor stock on at one time and fill in the top pieces of anchor stock. Some will be split planks. Looks easy in the practicum, the explanation is very clear. I hope my skills will suffice.
 
As an observation: As I work from stern forward, my work looks better. Do something often enough and sure enough you get better.

Great work Jesse. Your deck is becoming very active with all he detail.
 
Not being a lather, although I recently got a midi, somewhere I read that old hacksaw blades make good profiles for turning small parts. Do you know anything about this? Especially how to cut the profile.Thanks
 
Regards