KeithAug

A neat set of frames Andy. Good scrolling.

I find a laser level works quite well for that.

It's quite a complicated thing isn't it. I assume it had many uses including powering the forward derricks as well as anchors?

When my Byrnes saw failed I was able to make it run by manually rotating the blade. Once started it ran quite normally even with a dud capacitor.

lovely Paul.

Seconded.

` Eberhard - correct I didn't have one. However I would probably have still gone for the single point tool. I find It hard to get slitting saws to run truly flat and they seem to inevitably produce a slot that is slightly wider at the mouth than at the throat. I find I don't have the same problem with single point tools. Thank you Andy - It is already in the fridge. Thanks Phil. Yes that is a nice traditional propellor - probably very similar to the one originally fitted to Cangarda. The current Cangarda prop is a much more modern shape and probably a little more efficient. I don't think I need to worry too much about the bade profile as it won't affect the look very much and I don't have to worry about efficiency on a static model. Gary, my sailing experience is that a flailing sheet always finds something to lasso, rip off and dump in the sea, irrespective of the shape.🙂 Druxey - thank you. Grandpa (and Grandma) is the other half of the grand parenting team. We were allocated Grandi and Nani by the granddaughter and it stuck. I think she thinks we are less serious. 😬 Keith - will do.

Oh good - no need to discover more surperaltive piping words. that's a heck of a lot of fairleads.

Thank you Keith, I’ll pass on your good wishes on Sunday and maybe even post his birthday photo.

I have started work on the prop and rather than wait until it is finished I thought I would post a step by step description of the work. I won't be working on it daily due to family commitments (grandsons 1st and granddaughters 5th birthday coming up). It seems unbelievable that Ben first appeared on page 4 of this log almost exactly a year ago. Anyway moving on here is the start. You will probably recall the sketch from the last post. I estimated the shape of the blade from the best available photo. The blade is wider than appears in this stern view and as such I had to further estimate its width and shape. The image with the two red arrows above is the best I could come up with for the blade shape. The red arrows are pointing at sacrificial tabs that I thought I might need for location during the fabrication process. At present I think I may be able to get away without these. We shall see. The first part of my fabrication plan is to part machine the brass hub. The hub will be .472" (12mm) diameter by .551"(14mm) long. The blade angle at the hub is 45 deg and of course the blade angular spacing is 72 deg (5 blades). I want to machine the hub to accept the blades and this involves cutting 5 slots at the 45 degree angle. After some head scratching this is how the slots were cut. Step 1 was to mount the correct diameter of brass bar horizontally in a rotary table centred below the spindle of the mill. A scriber was then mounted in the mill chuck and this was used in conjunction with the rotary table to scribe 5 axial lines along the exposed end of the bar. Step 2 then involved making a location feature for the subsequent machining operation. I cut and squared up a 1" x 1" by 3/4" piece of aluminium bar. This was set up with the narrow edge centred below the mill and a line was scribed on the bar (green arrow below). Step 3 was then to bore a .437" hole .375" from one end. In step 4 the location feature was reamed out to .472" to take the round brass bar stock. The scribed reference lines on the bar stock and on the location feature allow me to accurately index the hub round to the desired 5 positions. Step 5 was to drill and tap the location feature to take a clamping bolt (red arrow in next photo). This done the location feature was mounted in a tilting vice set at 45 deg. Step 6 was to create a tool to cut the slots. I had decided on a slot width of .040" and I ground a single point milling tool and machined a tool holder to facilitate the cutting of this width. Step 7 - Because I didn't want to practice setting up the slot cutting on the brass bar I then machined up a wooden dowel to the exact same dimensions of the brass bar. On to the wooden bar I marked 3 lines. The blue line is .551" from the end and represents the length of the finished hub. The two pink lines are .080" from the finished hub ends respectively and these indicate the start and end positions for the 45 deg angled slots. The green line is pointing at one of the 5 scribed reference lines on the brass bar. Step 8 - The tilting vice was bolted to the milling table and the Z axis was adjusted until the single point cutting tool (white arrow below) was centred between the two lines indicated by the yellow arrows. With this done the Y axis was adjusted until the slot length touched both the yellow arrows lines at the extremity of the cut. These adjustments being done while testing the results on the wooden dowel while cutting using only the X axis traverse. Once I was satisfied with the results the Z and Y axis was locked. Step 9 was then a simple case of mounting the brass rod and traversing the x axis to cut the slot before indexing round by 72 deg and then traversing the x axis to cut the next slot etc, etc, etc. The slot cutting took about 5 minutes. The rest of the procedure took the best part of half a day. I should have explained earlier the the protrusion of the bar was always the same because it was bearing on the bed of the vice during each cut. More to come.

I look forward to it Andy. The revelation that is - not your appointment with the padded cell - although to be fair this might also be quite informative for some of us. As a child I shared your Spitfire dilemma which was why I always favoured the Fairey Swordfish. Your great work on the framing continues to impress.

Seconded. That would be very useful information.

All looking very good Greg. I remember some years ago viewing an early hydrofoil developed by Alexander Graham Bell in Baddeck Nova Scotia. Its wasn't quite as elegant as your replica but would make an interesting model. I particularly liked the Venetian Blinds foils.

Keith - A good looking fully rigged raft. A new category of MSW vessel.

Roel / Keith - thank you both for your insights and support. Thanks to everyone for the likes.

Rick - thank you for the extra photos. I have a magnificent selection due to your efforts so the new owners restriction won't matter a lot. I think he / she will find that the horse has bolted if they ever find this build log!😀

Richard - I thought you might be referring to the original, unfortunately I have found very few photos of the original. Here is all of them. None contain any useful detail on the vents.

Keith, Andy, Richard. She was built with them. Here is a screenshot from a video dated 2010, only a matter of moths after launch. Keith - I quite like the awning framework. I think its going to look real nice in polished brass.

I guess you are correct Richard, however I can think of a number of simpler / more elegant / more aesthetic ways of achieving the same objective.

As a measure I like feet. I have two of them.

I had wondered about that John but in the final photo the 2 tubes don’t seem to be connected across to form an inverted “u”.

Yes very tricky Andy. I think I would have been tempted to start with a piece of dowel and then bore it out to form a pipe. Then cut the pipe into strips before shaping / reassembling the strips to give the desired shape. However your effort looks pretty good to me.

These things appear at multiple positions on the deck. In the last photo it looks like two pipes with a flat plate cap????????

I replace the capacitor recently - The original lasted about 8 years. I bought this on eBay and it worked fine. The simple test for a capacitor fault is to switch the motor on and kick the blade over manually (not with fingers). If it's the capacitor that is dud this should cause the motor to run. The function of the capacitor is to facilitate starting.

Brian - I thought this was a really interesting tool. In no way a replacement for a good miniature table saw but quite a useful device nevertheless.