KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Are you using plans from Billings? I built Smit Rotterdam 35 years ago so I will be interest to see how you get on. -
I found the whole debate fascinating, which probably means that I too am blessed with Shelton’s traits.😀
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Yep …….. we could probably all do with a bit of conservation.
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Denis, Brass is fairly expensive but you can defer some of the cost by recycling domestic plumbing fittings as well as door furniture, stair carpet rods, brass weights etc, etc.
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Denis. The horizontal sections are relatively straightforward. They will tell you a lot and should be quite quick to do. Is your reluctance based on a lack of knowledge of how to do this because if it is you can get help, just ask. If it isn’t a knowledge issue and you just feel more comfortable with a suck it and see approach this is also fine. Given the fairly simple lines of Miranda you will probably come up with an acceptable solution either way.
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I have to take my hat off to you guys. Such a detailed knowledge of so many obscure subjects. Sheldon Cooper would be proud of you.
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Roger, Keith, Aren’t we saying that (despite our collective talents) we aren’t the experts in conservation and that it might be better to get the expert advice? I recall one of the common messages of The Repair Shop is try the least aggressive methods first and then only test them out in small and preferably non critical (hidden) areas.
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Yep - I agree. Over here we have a programme called "The Repair Shop" where a group of restoration experts demonstrate their skills over a wide range of treasured and sentimental possessions. It is surprising the range of techniques they use. Some are counterintuitive and are learned from many years of experience. Experimentation with a restoration project might get a 90% success rate. The problem is the damage caused by the 10% of failed interventions.
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Your woodworking skill continue to impress. I know this log is recording an historic build but even with such a fine saw I would have expected a "chopping" action between the brass and the teeth. It is remarkable how you managed so well. I wonder whether a jig and a hand held triangular needle file would have been an option for the notching process? Never the less it turned out pretty well.
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Sympathhetic restorations can be challenging but with a good base model they are very worthwhile. This looks like a very interesting subject. Is it just the deck that is metal or is the hull metal as well? I look forward to seeing how this one turns out.
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Thanks Rick It is amazing the bits of detail that can be picked up from your photos. The one of the rudder shows a lifting eye on the hull above the prop, presumably for attaching the prop hoist. Also good detail of the anode on the rudder and having seen this it makes sense of the attachments on the keel. I also see the scroll work at he bow isn't a continuous carving but has a definite joint towards the forward end. A picture is worth a thousand words. I really must start a build log and copy all the Cangarda preparatory chats into it. I'm with my sons and family at the moment (doing various maintenance jobs) so it will be later in the week for starting the log.
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Rick, thank you for the photos - I see Keith B got in quick with the good advice. I have been doing a lot of internet trawling but as I explained some time back I have little pictorial information on the deck fittings and in particular nothing on the masts and rigging details. So any help will be most welcome. It looks like it was a beautiful day for her roll out. P.S. that’s certainly the best detail I have seen of the bow decoration and of the stabilisers, very useful thank you. Is that a seam running the length of the hull below the portholes? I hadn’t noticed that before! I am already a bit daunted about how I am going to model the bow decoration. 😬
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But unfortunately not from beyond the grave. RIP 😐
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Denis This is one of the better renditions of Miranda that I have seen. https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=12497.0 I am guessing you have already found it, but have you thought of contacting the builder and asking him what he did about defining / constructing the hull. I find that most builders are only too willing to share their knowledge. I am planning to start a steam yacht in the next few months and it too has rather few defined frames so I’m quite interested in what you are doing.
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My guess is that you may struggle with curvature. My worry is that the wide spacing will cause the curvature to tighten adjacent to the frames and flatten out between the frames. If I were taking on the project I would try to use the existing frame information to generate a series of horizontal sections and then use the horizontal section to generate more vertical frames. This may sound complicated but it is very easily done and can produce remarkably smooth hull contours. For a 42" model I think I would be typically looking for about 25 to 30 frames. However feel free to ignore me as trial and error is the fun part of the process and everyone develops their own preferred approach. Good luck.
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Scroll saw versus band saw
KeithAug replied to Juddson's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I think you misunderstand. I was referring to the parallel link type of scroll saw. These tend to have more pivot points and link bearings than the parallel arm type. The Henger is a parallel arm type. The advantage of the parallel arm type is its greater simplicity but this is achieved at the expense of a greater oscillating mass. Parallel arm types tend to need heavy construction (mass) to limit the vibration. The parallel link type have a much lower oscillating mass and hence the vibrations are inherently less but the disadvantage is that wear is more pronounced. -
As you commented some time ago, postage stamps images are the way forward. It all looks pretty crisp to me. I guess the stanchions are quite delicate.
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Scroll saw versus band saw
KeithAug replied to Juddson's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I would think twice about buying a second hand parallel link saw. The linkage is prone to wear and is pretty costly to replace. With worn linkage it will dance itself off the table, even at moderate speeds. Only consider second hand if you can give it a really good test run. -
Nice work on the guard rail. I have a very pedantic sailing friend who goes apoplectic when anyone refers to the guard rail as "railings". Your build should wind him up nicely. 😀 Notching the stanchions on the table saw looks like a very delicate task. I imagine the notches are very small? Presumably you have a very narrow and fine toothed blade?
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Hi Brian Between battling global warming, diplomatic missions and global pandemics I'm surprised you got anything done. Have you considered running for President?😀
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I’m looking forward to this Mark.
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Eberhard - I am planning to move it outside for a photoshoot when the weather improves. I need the right light conditions and most importantly no wind.
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