KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Skylight Windows. I think I have made hard work of making these and many of you will have improvements to suggest. If you do feel free to advise. One of the key elements I wanted to achieve was to set the protective brass bars within the frame and have them separated from (not sitting directly on) the window acetate. This reflects the design on the original. This had to be done while minimising the thickness of the window frames so that it looks to scale. The window are 1.1 x .980 inch and I wanted them less than .100 inch thick Because I needed to make a number of matching frames I made a simple jig. This was cut from one of my wife's chopping boards. (To clarify I have one wife and she has a number of boards I find one is more than ample)!!!! As yet she has not discovered the theft. I find nylon chopping boards make ideal jigs particularly if they are to be used while gluing components. The glue does not adhere to them and the glued and dried components are easily removed. The first layer of the frame is built from .040 inch thick mahogany. Slots of .025 inch wide and deep were accurately cut into the mahogany to take the brass bars which are cut from .024 inch wire. The side strips of the frame was then cut - .100 inch wide. The fist (top layer) of the window was then assembled in the jig from 7 separate pieces and glued with PVA. The second layer of the window is constructed from .018 inch thick by .100 inch wide mahogany. The strips for the top and bottom of the window were glued in place (PVA) to reinforce the 1st layer. The brass bars were positioned and fixed with CA glue. Then the bars were closed in place by edge strips in the .018 inch mahogany. The final layer forms the recess for the acetate and is .040 x .040 inch in section. Having cut all the components and with a bit of practice assembly time for each window is less than 30 minutes. The acetate was cut to fit - at this stage it still has its protective covering. Many more lights still to do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Michael, John, Mark. Thank you for your continuing interest and kind remarks. One of the great things about MSW is the support everyone gets from fellow builders of exceptional skill.
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I continued with the skylights - taking care to get them square. Ribs and skirts were added. I didn't think that any below deck detail would be visible through the small skylight windows, so I didn't do any. I was a bit worried however that the lighter woods on the inside of the hull might look a bit odd so I decided to clad the inner spaces in darker wood. The 5 skylights are now in position but not painted or fixed. I'm hoping they will come up really well after a few coats of poly. Fingers crossed that the joints will show up well. I think I'll have a go at the windows next. I have a few ideas but it all seems a bit complicated and fiddley.
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I'm back on line after a 4 day broadband failure. 20 years ago it would have been a non event but in the modern era it feels like the end of the world. Anyway I did a bit of work on the skylights - in particular the 5 forward of the deck house. I had a few good photographs of the skylights and one bit of detail that was catching my eye was the dovetail joints on the corners of the upstands. The plans for the hatches were reasonable and together with the photos they made interpretation relatively straightforward. One advantage of this part of the build was that the 3 centreline hatches are identical in cross section (but of varying length). I therefore cut a solid block of mahogany to the correct shape (together with joints) and then parted off the 6 ends .050 thick. I went for finger joints rather than dovetails. The fingers are only .050 inch wide and my skill isn't up to cutting dovetails at this size. The sidewalls were all of different lengths but I made them in a similar way to the ends to get matched pairs. The finger joints were checked for accuracy prior to cutting them to the required thickness. The slices were then cut. Before being checked again. To give an idea of scale the side walls are .4 inches high.
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ancre La Salamandre by tadheus - 1:24
KeithAug replied to tadheus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Pawel Being in the picture gives a good impression of size. I hadn't quite realised how big she is. Very impressive. -
Michael If you have a go at the hinges here are a few pointers. I found it better to have the thickness of brass sheet a bit less half the OD of the tube. Any thicker and the hinges didn't fully close. The chamfer on the sheet gave a better joint - slightly more contact area. In the end I found tinning the sheet and tube to be counterproductive as it was harder to get the sheet and tube in good contact along their length. Once soldered I cut the tube on the jig with a fine razor saw (52 tpi) After soldering I parted of the sheet by hand with a razor saw. The mill slitting saw generated too much heat / vibration and tended to detach the tube. John - thank you for the comments which are much appreciated.
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Hi Nils - either the pins are very big or the rail is very small. It looks great.
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Thank you Michael. And I just happen to have some tripod legs sitting in my scrap box. It must be destiny.
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I spent much of my spare time this weekend finishing the deck house doors. I made the 3rd set of hinges and was finally happy with them. In particular my soldering was much improved. Getting the hinges in the right position proved vital for smooth operation. In the end I took the pins out and mounted the hinge halves separately. Accurate cutting out of the hinge recesses proved to be a key aid to correct positioning. Having mounted both doors I spent a few hours making the door handles (matching the originals in so far as scale and skill) would allow.
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Julie It looks pretty good to me. The grain in the natural wood finish is bound to distract the eye and mask the definition of the transom. Strangely it would probably have been more defined if it had been painted in a colour but that wasn't your choice which is fine. One option would be to put a further layer of planks over the transom in a toning but darker veneer. Alternatively rather than cutting in a darker plank overlay a darker edge plank to follow the contour and then fill in by overlaying the existing transom planks with another layer.
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ancre La Salamandre by tadheus - 1:24
KeithAug replied to tadheus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Pawel, It is true craftsmanship to make the things you can't see as well as the things you can see. You show great dedication to your craft. -
Michael - you could just stop the restoration and go into 3rd hand production. I'm sure you would find many buyers.
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John Thank you for your comments and thanks to the rest of you who have hit the like button.
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ancre La Salamandre by tadheus - 1:24
KeithAug replied to tadheus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Pawel Will the below decks detail be visible once the deck is in place? It would be tragic to loose sight of all of your lovely work. -
The exterior of the crew hatch now has 4 coats of poly. I guess one more coat will do it. I will also need to paint the inside I have gone back to the deckhouse and had a go at the deckhouse doors (2 off). I started with the door jambs. These were made over wide with the positions for the hinges accurately cut on the table saw. The hinge cuts were made in a plank before strips were sliced off. Thus ensuring the the position of the hinge cut outs were identical for both doors. The strips were glued to the frame and once dry they were reduced to the correct width. Effectively leaving 5 separate pieces of door jamb on each side. The hinge cut outs were then removed with a chisel. In parallel I made the doors. Both doors were made joined - they will be separated later.
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Beautiful work Alex. I was intrigued by the press for the hull plates. You refer to 'poverhnostyami.Izgotavlivayu stamp" but i can't find a translation. Did you make the press and if so how? Keith
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Michael /Bob Thank you for continuing with your support and comments. I have now coated the hatch with a few coats of poly and its looking quite smart.
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I decided to have a bit of a diversion from the deck house and made the crew hatch. The detail on the plans was really quite scant. I tend to rely on internet photos where the plan is less detailed than desirable, however in the case of the crew hatch virtually nothing was available. I was left to rely on the "how would I have done it?" approach. In particular the doors are a figment of my imagination. After all if they don't exist it's going to be pretty wet below. I started with the sides - cut to shape from 1/32 inch ply and then clad in mahogany. I decided not to make the hatch cover mobile but represented it partially open - to give a bit of a view inside (although not much to see) I did however make the hatch tracks correctly as a "c" section. The "c"was constructed from 3 planks each .030 inch thick. To get the curve the wood was soaked in boiling water and then the body of the hatch was used as the former. Note the wife's cotton used to hold the planks in place while drying and thereafter gluing. Some time later all was complete and ready for the poly. This gives an idea of scale. The callipers are set to 1 inch.
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John Only the mechanical ones. I never really got electronics being from ABC (the "age before calculators"). My only concession to technological advancement was speeding up my slide rule by dusting it with talcum powder. Maybe I should enrol in a crash course in miniaturised electronic instrumentation!
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Hi Michael - I don't have holly, its difficult to get over here, I could cut down the tree in the front garden though! I finished painting the internals of the deckhouse prior to assembly and also finished the instrument panel. The mahogany came up a treat. Looking at the photo I have just realised that I have left the chart drawer out. The gauges are turned from .25 inch brass bar and the face is plasticard punched out with a leather hole punch. The square gauge is cut off from .25 inch square section aluminium tube.
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Julie - re shaping the transom. Yes, as you say, one approach to the transom wold be to use card folded along the centre line and then cut. On Altair I actually drew the shape on card using a bit of geometry. However Altair isn't as sleek as Endeavour so the folded card method may be better.
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Druxey Thank you taking time to look at my log. Your generous comments are much appreciated.
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